Ford - F150 :: Jerks Pretty Hard When Shifting Through First Few Gears / Cruise Control Shuts Off
Dec 20, 2013
My trusty 1994 Ford F150 is starting to show her age, I think. I'm noticing a few issues:
1 - most concerning to me is she jerks pretty hard when shifting through the first few gears during relatively warm weather. The cold snap has abated the issue for now. Had the transmission fluid checked - mechanic said it's fine.
2 - This is a fun electrical issue. I'm driving down the highway when suddenly the cruise control shuts off, as does the speedometer and the digital odometer. The Tach still works, as do the rest of the gauges. Maybe 10 - 15 minutes later, they all come back on. It's done this a couple times.
3# - Really annoying but very minor; when I push down on the foot feed, there's a bit of a squeak in the engine. I'm guessing it's a tensioner pulley on the serpentine belt, but why it would only happen when I give it some gas?
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I just purchased a 2002 2 door manual Echo. Car has 70K miles. I noticed that there isnt much travel for the clutch pedal (at least compared to my SX4), I have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to get it to engage and it seems pretty stiff shifting between gears. Is this normal for this car? Only my second Toyota owned and the first was an auto trans.
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2008 Ford F350 5.0 with automatic transmission, extended cab, 2 wheel drive. While on the highway and in cruise control, and only when climbing a small incline, the transmission jerks and shutters. Feels like transmission starts to downshift, but then doesn't, back & forth. If climbing a much larger hill, the transmission downshifts just fine. Transmission shifts just fine while NOT in cruise control. Was thinking electronic module or sensor. Any specific information on the exact electronic part that may be faulty?
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I drive a 2005 Ford Explorer (automatic) with 84k miles on it. Recently when I was driving on cruise control at 35 mp/h down a hill and applied the breaks to make a turn, the engine completely shut off. The lights came on, the power steering went off, the engine had shut off. I pulled over, turned the key off, turned it back on and it started no problem. I drove it for 3 days without problems (and without using cruise control of course), then I took the car to a shop. They ran diagnostics on it, test drove it, but couldn't find anything wrong with the cruise control or the transmission. I don't think they tested this driving downhill as the shop is not in a hilly area. Tonight, I went down the same road again, 35 mp/h in cruise control, slowed down for the same turn, and the engine shut off again exactly the same way it did before. What this could be?
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The Cruise Control on my truck works intermittently. Sometimes it cuts out when I am driving and sometimes it fails to work at all (usually in the morning). Sometimes it will re engage if it cuts out and sometimes it will not re engage for hours.
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My cruise light will activate but won't hold speed, it shuts off when I tap the brakes. I did the self test and it went through complete. All buttons worked. After the test it did not show any blinks which according to the chart shows speed control switch faulty, I replaced the switch and does the exact same thing. The recall was also done.
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This is an Auto/4z4/4.6 V-8. It's Skidding or a Clutch is not holding at times when shifting up or down while on Cruise and slight hills.
someone suggested changing oil and filter about two years ago. I did that and it didn't change a thing. $145 that time.
I'd like to know if its the clutch in the torque converter, or the Transmission? If I have to change something out, should I get both?
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Where is the cruise control amplifier located on an 85 F-150? The Chilton manual just says "behind the instrument panel". No pic or further description. Just looking up from the bottom of the dash I see a "black box" with 2 wires going into the top of it located just between the steering column and the wiper switch.
Is this it?
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I have a 1991 bronco with a 351w and the e4od trans.. The transmission is shifting late and hard and sometimes when i let off of the gas to slow down it shifts between gears up and down by itself... The only lights on the dash that are on is the Rear Anti-lock brake light and the speedometer is not working either.. Where to start the trouble shooting to fix it?
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I recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
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I have a 2009 Mercury Milan. Ever since I have had the car I have had a problem with the cruise control suddenly turning off. It is erratic and will happen usually once on a two hour trip on the highway day or night. And it completely turns off - no RESUME. It never puts up any codes that the dealer can see. The dealer will not do anything because they cannot duplicate the problem. They tried once on a short 5 mile drive but they would have to take it on the highway and drive it for at least one half hour to an hour. They said there were no similar problems reported through Mercury. They initially suggested that perhaps I was accidentally hitting the brake pedal but I have been acutely aware of where my feet are when it happens and it is not me. And anyway this would not explain the fact that it turns off completely. My warranty is going to run out in several months and I would like to get this fixed before it does.
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Our 93 Ford F150 with <100,000 miles had no transmission problems until a squirrel built a nest in it and chewed through some of the wires. It wouldn't start and what a surprise when we lifted the hood. It chewed through the EEC Test wires which have been reattached, through the cruise control wires (all but two have been reattached.
The remaining two are chewed to the box and can't be attached), two other wires next to these that were reconnected and chewed completely off is a part #E53B-14A624-0 with the stubs of two red wires.
The E53B was lying under the truck. After reattaching the wires listed it started but now lugs along and shifts hard into first gear. After that it's OK most of the time but it has surged unexpectedly when making a turn. I've been told the cruise doesn't need to be rewired completely so don't know if it's the problem (can the cruise be left with two wires cut off) or if it's the E53B part or something else we can't see.
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I have a 2003 AWD Pontica Vibe, automatic transition, almost to 100,000 miles, the majority of which are from midwestern highway driving. Last summer on a long highway drive, the cruise control mysteriously shut itself off after maybe 2 hours, and wouldn't hold speed again no matter how many times I tried to reset it. When I stopped for gas and tried it again after restarting the car, it worked fine for months. I figured it need a reboot and didn't worry about it.
But since November the same thing always happens: the cruise control works the first time you set it for anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour, and then it shuts itself off. Any attempts to reset it after that will hold speed for anywhere from 10 seconds to about a minute. The "cruise" light on the dashboard flickers at the moment the speed drops, but doesn't remain off.
I am definitely not touching the brake, and there is no correlation with road conditions or weather as far as I can tell. We took it to the dealer in December to check for electrical problems, but they didn't find any error codes. I'm not sure what the next step is - should we drive it on the highway for an hour and THEN check the codes once it's in a malfunctioning state? Or is there another likely culprit?
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2009 Chevy Malibu. My car's cruise control kicks off at random times. The control on the steering wheel will not re-engage the cruise control. It stops working until some random time down the road when I can finally reset. The tach will jump from 2 to 3 and seems to feel like it is shifting gears. The dealer reads no codes. How do I get this fixed. I drive interstate all week 50+ miles everyday and it is annoying.
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While driving on the highway, the cruise control shuts off and the speedometer stops working. Check engine light comes on. Car continues to run fine.
Five days later, I start the car and the following do not work: clock, intermittent wipers, neutral safety switch, tachometer, temperature gauge, gear indicator lights, rear defrost, windows, and I believe that is all. Car runs and drives fine. Other electrical items working. I check all fuses and only find one burned out - (#1, inside, labeled 'back up lights' meter lights) I replace the fuse and it blows when I start the car again. Take the car to AutoZone and they put it on their computer and it shows one code - P0501 - CVT speed sensor.
Two days later, the car will not start. Turns over strong, but will not start. I have checked the grounds on the transmission and body and they appear to be fine. Battery cables, also.
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So I have a 1995 f-250 4x4 with the 460 and a E4od. So when I bought the truck I drive it two hours home and when I got into town it started shifting really hard and searching for gears. So I flushed it and installed a new oil filter because the oil in it was brown. Very brown. And smelled awful. So it shifts good, but what's happening now is that it shifts good in drive when it wants to.
In the morning it works great but when I get in it to leave after school it shifts really late (around 2900 rpm) and hard. So I put it in first and then into second but when it's time for third and I put it in drive it shifts back to first. But if I stop shut it off for a few minutes and turn it back on it works fine. It only does this after it's been sitting in the school parking lot all day. I replaced the mlps but not the connector due to I didn't have time at the moment. Could it be the tps? Something mechanical?
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I have been trying to self diagnose an issue with my pick up for a while now. I have an 01 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 that shifts really hard into all gears. I was told it was the transmission going out, so we replaced the transmission with a rebuilt one and it did nothing for the shifting issues. We then had the transfer case rebuilt which also did nothing for our problems. My father who has some general mechanic knowledge is certain that the free floating rear end is not turning with the correct timing for the transmission shifting. No check engine lights come on at all during these issues. When I took it to a mechanic he told me I needed a new transmission and blew me off when I told him it was just replaced.
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Hard shifting from the car. sort of a slam between gears and while in gear.
Possibly a mount?
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My 2004 Forester (73000 miles) with 5-speed manual, is sometimes hard shifting into gears. The Subaru agency says that there's 'not much left' on the clutch and I need a new clutch @ $1300. Does hard shifting , no clutch slipping, indicate new clutch is necessary?
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That said my wife bought a 2001 Accent 1.6L Auto while I was overseas and it's been a great car, about 8 days ago it just crapped out. The reverse went out on her so we took it to get the codes read and on the way it went in limp mode, started hard shifting between gears and wouldn't go over 45 she says. Took it in to the stealership today and they said that the trans is shot as well as showing codes for P1527, P0732, and P0734. I know what the two slippage codes are and I can prolly just replace the speed sensors and that will be fixed but I'm not sure about the reverse and P1527.
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So I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. I know the IAC has needed replaced for a while but It hasn't really been a n issue at all until today.
So last night my car's transmission started to kick when shifting gears. Mostly between first and second but at other gears sometimes as well. This morning it was still kicking and I figured my transmission was going out.
However when stopped at a stop light I noticed that my car was idling rough. So I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start. At least not for about 10-15 minutes. So I was wondering if the IAC could be causing the transmission to shift rough at all?
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