My truck has a very specific hesitation/failure to engage at 1300 rpm and 45-55 mph. I took it to a reputable national chain that specializes in transmissions thinking this should be a very specific issue that I was able to catch early. After "transmission rebuild" with new torque converter, I have the exact symptoms. How is this possible?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
View 1 RepliesHow's it going? I have a 2005 F150 with the 5.4L V8. It has 70,000 miles on it and until yesterday and has been a great truck. While driving in traffic yesterday the truck started running rough and hesitating. It through two codes - misfire cylinder 5 and misfire cylinder 6.
In response, I purchased two new coils and 8 new autolite plugs. The plug installation went smoothly and the coils all went on without incident. However, this didn't fix the problem!
The next day I found that cylinders 5, 6, 7, and 8 were all having issues. At this point I also had an "O2 stuck lean" code so I pulled the plugs and found all four brand new plugs fouled and smelling like gas and an ehaust that smelled like raw fuel. This led me to replace the O2 sensor on the drivers side. With the new O2 my lean code disappeared but I still had a rough idle.
Further troubleshooting found that injector 6 was stuck open (which presumably fouled my O2 causing it to read lean and dump fuel thus fouling all the plugs on one side). I replaced the injector and the rough idle disappeared and all seemed really well as the truck idled in my driveway.
However, as soon as I hit the road I noticed a major hesitation. The motor is also noticeably louder and has a very hard time accelerating. I'm thinking that I've plugged up my cat by dumping so much fuel in to it and the hesitation is caused by a lack of breathing - does this sound possible? How would I confirm this without replacing the cat? Anything else I should look for? I'm fairly confident I have combustion in all 8 cylinders now so I'm leaning towards intake/exhaust issues.
I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 with 237k miles on the original 4R100. Yesterday afternoon I went to back out of a parking space and the truck wouldn't move. When I put it in R, the transmission will engage and upon pressing the gas pedal it acts like it wants to move but will not budge. It rolls forward with no issue or noise. It will not roll backwards at all - not in neutral and not in reverse. The transmission shifts fine but with some hesitation to engage each gear. I have noticed some slippage but nothing crazy.
I 1st thought something might be wrong with the rear end but after some research I think it might be the transmission.
This morning, while looking into why the front drive wouldn't engage, and moving the plastic cover over the battery out of the way to check for any vacuum issues, the positive battery post cable to the battery post moved. There was some fluctuation engine-wise. After I shut it off and tightened down the cable, re-started the truck, and continued looking for vacuum leaks, a few minutes later the truck died.
What's been done thus far, re-checked battery connections, checked in-line mini fuse-20amp, checked both mega fuses-power both sides of each, checked 10 amp #4 in cab fuse block, removed alternator and took for check-checked ok. Would there be something else that would trip if there was an abrupt dis-connect from the battery with the truck running?
MK7 GTI - I was driving along yesterday when I got a warning message that said "cannot engage reverse," accompanied by a CEL and the transmission downshifting into 1st gear (luckily I was only going about 20 mph.) I tried pulling over and restarting the car, and tried shifting into the different transmission and engine modes, but the transmission continued to only be able to engage 1st gear or neutral. Luckily I was five minutes from my APR dealer, and cruised over there at 15 mph so as to not over-rev the engine in 1st gear, a lot of pissed off traffic was flying by me honking.
They ran the codes, flashed it back to stock, and the codes and CEL persisted in stock mode. I drove back to my house at 15mph, took my intake off, and called roadside assistance to tow my car to the dealership. They are currently waiting on a rep to come out and authorize a new DSG most likely.
I have a 1999 VW Passat that has a problem with its cruise control that two dealers have not been able to solve. Most of the time I cannot engage the cruise control. Other times it will work properly for 30 minutes. On a rare occasion, it will work properly for several hours. It does not seem to matter what type of road I am driving on. On the rare occasions when it works properly, it does not seem to matter if I stop the care and shut off the engine.
It appears is is there are times when it stops working that stopping the care and shutting off the engine is useful when I begin driving again. However, there is nothing consistent about when it fails, and when it again functions. The dealers have said little more than the cruise control is not working. One dealer installed a new break pedal sensor which did not resolve the problem.
Our 1999 CRV has had the clutch fail several times in the past year. The pattern is that you notice it slipping a bit now and then, but trending worse over a few days. Then it gets dramatically worse in a period of minutes: it does not engage fully when let out. The pedal feels fine, the engine is running fine, but power is not transmitted to the wheels.
On two occasions, we were able to take it directly and the mechanic resolved the problem with some adjustment to the master cylinder, or something like that (my wife spoke to the mechanic and it was many months ago).
Last winter, I was driving as the problem was recurring and I found myself nursing the slipping clutch up a steep one mile grade. At the top of the hill, totally flat ground, the problem continued to get worse for the next half mile, till there was no power at all! Engine fine, pedal action fine, but effectively the clutch was permanently disengaged. I left the car there over night. The next morning, before calling for a tow, I tried again and the clutch was working! I could tell it was still slipping a bit, but it was no problem to drive to the mechanic, who fixed the problem again for just a hundred bucks or so.
Yesterday, my wife again found that the clutch failed completely over the course of a few miles driving. She had to be towed. Today the mechanic says they can't reproduce the problem!
Have a 1995 F150 with 83k with manual locking hubs. Haven't used them in almost a year. Today turned them to LOCK, normally very stiff, but this time easily turned with two fingers. Front wheels would not engage. Local mechanic put it on a lift, manually switched each hub from LOCK to FREE several times and they work fine now.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Musang 3.8L v6 when I start my car for the first time of the day or after several hours of sitting the car idles high between 1000-1300 RPMs for approximately 15-20 seconds after that it idles down to 600-800 rpms. I changed the spark plugs wires air filter not sure what else it could be no Check engine light.
View 1 Replies2011 Super Duty, SB, 6.7, Lariat, SuperCab, FX4 Undercover hard bed cover, Ford bed mat, and mud flaps.Traded a 2003 Expedition with 100k miles on it. It was time for a new tow vehicle, I tow a 30 foot travel trailer.(7000 to 8000lbs) The dealer offered me a deal at invoice plus all of Ford's incentives, so I couldn't refuse.
I have about 1300 miles on it and it runs fine. I have been noticing a wet spot under the right front of the truck, checking today it looks like anti freeze leaking from above the air condition pump. It makes about a 3 inch diameter wet spot, the fluid recovery bottles are still at the correct cold coolant level. I couldn't get my hand in that space to find where it is leaking from.
I just flushed my coolant system and installed a red ELC, Riffraff billet thermo housing, Ford thermostat, new hoses and Riffraff coolant filter. When I first started the truck and was waiting for the thermostat to open I notice at idle the flow from the coolant filter into the Degas bottle was a lot.
Fast forward a week and about 75 miles I have zero flow at idle and it will start to dribble at about 1300 RPM's and increase from there. It seems the flow would not be dependent of the thermostat being open since the connection is below it. I am wondering if my Donaldson filter is already full?
I used a flusher that uses air and water, after flushing I used air to blow to tap water out. How fast have you guys seen one fill up? I ordered 2 extra but just do not want to waste the first one
I just bought my first truck ever, ended up with a 2002 F250 SuperDuty V8 5.4. I'm fairly handy with vehicles but can't seem to figure out the issues I'm having. I searched the threads and have tried a number of this solutions, but to no avail.
1) The truck runs smooth above roughly 1700 RPM, but between 1300&1700 there is a distinct stutter and shaking of the entire truck. Although the check engine light does not come on the Scanner indicates a misfire in cylinder #3 and I've replace the plugs and coil, but it's still there. Fuel filter has been recently replaced and seafoam run thru the tank and vacuum line. The mechanic at the local mom & pop shop said it is most likely a damaged valve in #3. Am I missing anything? Do you think a valve job is necessary?
2) When I got out of the truck tonight the radio stayed on, I tried the WD-40 fix (no luck), additionally checked the fuses (all in proper condition). Not sure if this relates but the auto door locks started acting up as well and the door ajar light stays on all the time. I saw a post about a "VSM" but what or where that is.
So my 11' F350 is over heating when the engine RPM's are below about 1300 whether the truck is moving or not. If I let it idle for 2-5 minutes I can watch the temp gauge go to red and an engine over temp message appears. I noticed that if I rev the engine to > 1300 RPM it cools back down.
This appears to be a water pump going bad, any other thoughts? Are there instructions for changing the water pump here on the forum?
I noticed something strange about the engine RPM in two separate trips today: (Note: the graphs are wide and may be shrunk by the web page but can be shown in full size separately if you click on each graph)
As shown in the graphs the RPM oscillates between 0 and ~1300 at ~0.3 Hz. In both times when it occurred I had to do a "pulse" (as in pulse and glide) to come out of the strange state. When it occurred the second time I turned down the radio to listen to the sound of the engine to make sure it was indeed revving and not just a bug in my PriiDash(TM) software. Internally the RPM is reported by one of the ECUs at about 14 Hz. The graphs are plotted at 1 Hz but also keep track of min and max during each 1 second period. I do have the raw data saved so a high resolution graph can be generated if interested.
It was snowing and both times I was going slightly down hill. Before it happened the second time I noticed the traction control warning lighted up briefly, but it was off and no other warning lights were on during the time period of the strange RPM oscillation. Could this be the traction control going out of control (in its effort to rev up the ICE to prevent the MGs from over-revving)?
I've noticed the past few days that my car has been leaking a small amount of coolant. I've only had the car a month, and it has 1300 miles on it. I'm in Texas so it's been about 100 degrees every day.
There's been a few times that I've turned off the car and the fan has stayed on for a few minutes, so it must be getting pretty hot.
I'm assuming this little bit of coolant is just coming from the overflow, but I've never had a new car do this so I'm concerned that there's a problem. I checked the fill level, and it's a hair above the LOW line, so it's within range.
Have a 2001 wolfs-burg 1.8t, has about 220k miles on it, i know, its a lot. Right now, the check engine light has been on for a few months and the idle is very weird. It goes up and down in neutral from 800-1300 rpms and sometimes i smell gas. Also the triangle with an '!' and circle around it yellow light comes on some times now. I heard it could be MAF or a vacuum leak. A mechanic is going to check it out soon...
View 10 RepliesMy 2005 yukon runs rough between 1300-1700 rpm, seems to run fine at all other rev's, doesn't matter what gear I'm in, (trying to troubleshoot put in low to see what it would do, same problem) if it's in the rough zone and I punch it it smooths out and runs fine, I've tried injector cleaner (Techron), premium gas, but it still does it....
View 2 Repliesi have a 96 240 w/ sr20det 5 spd. Problem comes and goes. When at a stop in neutral idles between 1300 rpm down to 0 and almost stalling, then when i take off ( and in any gear) there is noticeable lag and engine wont rev past 5200 rpm like there is a rev limiter or governor. then the problem will just go away for a while. I've only tried cleaning the IAC valve.
View 9 RepliesI cleaned the throttle body with CRC throttle body cleaner and now the motor idles at 1000-1300 rpm. Is this normal for a newly cleaned throttle body? How can I bring down the idling rpm?
View 4 RepliesWhen I'm driving in stop and go traffic during rush hour, my 2007 Camry V6 makes a light flutter when I slowly speed up to between 1000 to 1300 revs. It's not a grind or anything but it's like a light flutter/stutter that you can feel.
It's not a hesitation where the car slows down, but you can definitely feel and hear a light "duh duh duh" then the car continues. It doesn't happen at higher revs at all once the car picks up, say, 10 to 15 kms an hour.