Ford - F150 :: Engine Vibration At About 67 Mph That Seems To Pulsate?
May 3, 2011
I have a 2000 f150, 4.6l v8. I have two symptoms that I think are related but I am not sure. The truck has 92000 miles on it. No trouble codes.
1st. I get a vibration at about 67 mph that seems to pulsate.
2nd. I get a similar vibration at about 1200 rpm in park. This one seems to be much worse when i lift my foot from the accelerator.
I have had-the truck about a month, and just had the tires rotated and balanced.
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So I have a very annoying vibration in a 2005 Ford F150 FX4 5.4L w/ approx 122k miles. This 'rear-end' vibration became noticeable about a year ago when I put a new set of tires on. And just for the record, this vibration was never a problem beforehand. So it should be obvious that I have bad tires right? Thus, I instantly go back to tire dealer and explain the situation. They took it apart and checked balancing on all tires and confirmed that they were fine. So after dealing w/ it for a few weeks and rotating the tires around a few times and experimenting with pressures nothing worked. This time we noticed the U-joints were now loose on the driveshaft, which we then replaced. But this didn't fix the issue. I then took it to a separate Ford dealer to have the tires 'road force' tested, which nothing found.
I then had Ford dealer try to diagnose the issue with several trips back and forth with their apparent 'best' people on it. I went on numerous test drives explaining the issue. The vibration only seems to be noticeable on road and with speed. Not in the shop in the air. It seems to be pinpoint approx. 50-55mph. and minimal at lower speeds. Also seems to get worse with turns and bumps in the road. You can literally watch the bed of the truck vibrate in the mirrors. (also seems to be more on drivers side) It doesn't affect the steering or anything in front of vehicle.So Ford also had me come back another time to use a special vibration analyzer on it, which still found nothing. They checked ball joints, suspension, you name it. The only fix they could recommend was a new driveshaft, which I regretfully accepted the challenge and now it's sitting in my garage. It didn't work. I ended up taking my original shaft to a balancing shop and they found no issues with it. Also looked at front/4x4 shaft, however, it doesn't engage with normal driving 4x2 so shouldn't be the cause. Approx. 6 months later, I went back to same tire shop and had them exchange tires with a completely different set (factory recommended size LT275/65/18) thinking it still had to be the tires- no fix.
So then on to other things: I started with changing out the rear differential fluid- no fix. I also put on new rear brakes and rotors- no fix. I put on new rear shocks- no fix. I also took off the parking brakes and inspected all cables and housing, which could apparently stick sometimes- no fix. I cleaned all contact areas of wheels and rotors onto the wheel studs to be sure there were no abnormalities- no fix. I even took off the front 2" leveling kit and tried driving without, no fix. (But this was never a problem before.) Keep thinking it could be something more deep in the rear-differential, but most reports say it would be very rough and noisy/grinding-which it isn't. So after probably 6-7 trips to at least 3-4 shops and perhaps $600 later I now have newer tires and a spare d-shaft, which Ford won't take back by the way, and I still have the vibration.
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I've got a 1991 Ford F150 Super Cab, 351 Windsor 5.8L V8, 2WD with 177000 miles on it. It rocks, I love this truck. But above 60 miles an hour I start to get a horrible vibration throughout the cab, mostly under the seat. It gets worse the faster I go to the point the whole cab vibrates. The challenge is that it only occurs when I'm on flat interstate, with just enough gas to maintain speed. If I accelerate, it goes away (or subsides quite a bit). If I let off the gas, it goes away completely. I had a transmission diagnosis from a local, reputable shop, and they said the tranny was fine. They said it was something in the engine, but I'm baffled that something in the engine could cause such a vibration all over the cab. Any thoughts on what this might be?
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I have a 2007 F150 FX-2 which i bought new. I have about 60,000 miles on it, and every 8,000-10,000 miles i develop a pronounced vibration when i apply the brakes. When i first had this problem, at about 10,000 miles on the odometer, the dealership replaced the pads and turned the rotors, but the problem resurfaced before another 5,000 miles had passed. About 10,000 miles later the problem resurfaced, the dealership said they replaced the rotors.
The problem resurfaced again at about 37,000 miles, but the dealership claimed that since I was out of warranty. Being handy, I replaced the rotors myself, but now, about 15,000 miles later, I'm experiencing this issue again. Is this just a common problem i will have to live with? I don't tow anything, and i rarely load the bed with anything. Maybe a trip to the hardware store once a quarter and i load a motorcycle into the bed two or three times a year.
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I have a 2006 f150 5.4l, and I have developed a problem. It seems the my truck has started to skip, or "pulsate" when I am accelerating. If I really get on the gas the "pulsate" goes away. This only seems to happen around 45-50 mph. Now this is where it gets weird. I have no check engine light on, and I have checked to make sure my light is working. I brought it to a garage and they told me something about Fords having a misfire issue that sometimes doesn't trigger a check engine light. . . . . now idk about that because every misfire I have seen triggers a check engine light, but I had them replace the spark plugs anyways. And it didn't fix my problem. At this point the only thing I can think of is possibly tranny.
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Ok where to start. I have a 98 ford explorer with a 4.0l OHV engine close to 280,000km. There is a leak coming from somewhere around the oil filter but there seems to be oil coming from more then one spot. Second issue is when a idle the voltage seems to die a bit until I hit the gas and it returns to normal but this issue seems intermediate at times. And I have just replaced the oil filter for the second time no second gasket.
Also I am having a tranny shift flare problem from second to third and when it is under alot of pressure in the bush going up hills it just kicks out of gear and roles back. And another issue is seems like maybe my power steering pump may be bad when I am idiling it seems to pulsate and when I change the position of the steering wheel the pulasting will go away or not be as bad.
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Have an 02 Explorer XLT that recently had its' ABS light intermittently come on. As well when the ABS light is off the brakes will pulsate when slowing.
Took to dealer they noted the following:
Rear sensor out .... ABS Control unit is out. Was shorted out due to Hydraulic Control Unit going out. Hydraulic control unit is obsolete at Ford.
Questions:
With all of this going on, how was I able to brake although not adequately?
Does the HCU control normal breaking too (without ABS)?
Immediately he says he would not put the money into it and wants to get me to someone to trade it in on another vehicle? While I understand the logic somewhat I do not being approached like this.
Can I get a better quote going to a mom and pop mechanic and getting second hand parts?
Is there a possibility to bypass/disconnect the ABS system and would it be recommended?
How to deal with? Vehicle is in great shape aside from mechanical issues creeping up and don't want to lay out the dough for a new vehicle.
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Vehicle: 1998 F150, 158k mi. MT (M5OD), 4.9l I-6.
Description of problem: About 2 weeks/500 miles ago, truck developed a scraping/squeaking sound. I thought maybe something was rubbing on the driveshaft, but inspection revealed no likely candidate, nor disturbed metal on the shaft.
Over the course of the next 500 miles, it's gotten worse, so that current symptoms exhibit themselves (to one degree or another) 80% of the time. The symptoms are:
- Worst on first drive of day, on first mile.
- Sound produced somewhere between scrape and squeak.
- Vibration noticed throughout cab and through steering wheel ONLY when foot off clutch...smooth as soon as clutch depressed.
- Giving it a little gas (at constant speed) usually smooths out symptoms somewhat.
- Recently had bed loaded to gross. Vibrations went away, to return once bed empty.
- MT fluid found to be full, in good condition, and with 15k mi since change.
So, what's up? Given that a load in the bed improves things, I was thinking U-joints: but the driveshaft spins in neutral, too, so why would pressing the clutch change anything? I also thought about tired clutch bearings, but everything I've read says pressing the clutch makes things worse, not better.
Is it worth examining the tranny-to-engine bolts?
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2001 F150 4x4 5.4 gasoline, 200k miles
I have had the vehicle for about 3 years now. One thing I noticed when originally I got it, was that all the lights, headlights, tail lights, dome light, instrument panel lights would pulsate at a steady rate when it was running. It did not matter whether it was idling or doing 70 on the highway.
When I bought the truck, the stock plastic headlights had long since seen better days. So shortly after I bought it, I swapped out the headlights with new high intensity ones. Each side has it's own high voltage power supply. They have worked fine since I installed them.
Tonight I left the truck running when I parked, and I got out and looked at all the lights. Headlights are fine and steady.
All the other lights, parking, instrument, tail, dome, are still pulsing. It is a steady constant pulsation of less than 1/2 second pulse. The only light that was not visibly pulsing was the digital display on the radio.
What could be the culprit here? Ignition noise? I have never replaced the alternator. It may be original. The battery is less than a year old. Again, it's done this pulsing since day 1, when I bought it used and BEFORE I replaced the stock headlights.
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I have a 2012 Passat which has brake rotors starting to pulsate. I took the brakes off today to go have them turned and I realized that the rotor will not come off until I remove the center bolt holding it on. I tried to get it off tonight and felt like I was going to break my socket and it did not budge. It is a size 23, 12-point bolt.
Here are my questions?
1. I assume that bolt needs to come out?
2. Is it a traditional threaded bolt (not reversed). Left to loosen?
3. How tight should it be? I want to try a breaker bar, but I don't want to strip it or break anything.
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2006 for f150 with 107k miles...suddenly started shuddering whenever I give it anymore than a feather of gas, and it's under 200 rpm...after 2000 if seems to break out of the shutter and run fine. Exact same thing happenes to my 89 accura with 230k
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I have a 2004 F 150 ford lariat triton 5.4 it makes a distinct diesel engine sound in low RPM should I be concerned, is there anything I cnd do. Is it a concern, does it make a difference in the gas mileage.
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Just had the 10k service done at the dealer. Oil change and inspection and now there is a ticking sound from the engine. It was not there when I took it in, even my wife noticed it. Will take it back to the dealer on Monday, but wanted to hear the groups thoughts. 6 cyl non-EcoBoost engine
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2010 f150; intermittently the key turns fully without turning the engine on. Still under warrenty, been to shop twice, cant find anything wrong and service people have no clue. new battery, no codes. Occurs usually after the truck has run never when sat idle for a period. Start after a while can be 1 min to 2h.
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My check engine light has been coming on at 60mph. It will go off at 58 or 65mph. I could drive those speeds on the freeway, but would rather repair the problem. I've replaced the O2 sensor after 180,000 miles. I did notice I have a 2 inch hole in my muffler.
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I've had my mechanic work on this issue (the engine misses), and for the past few months thought the issue was resolved.... Truck is 27 years old and has only 75K actual miles. Here's what I have done.
Installed rebuilt carburetor - 2009New plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor - 2010Adjusted carburetor, timing, and choke - Feb 2012
I normally drive it every couple days, yet during last winter it set up for a couple weeks with 10% ethanol fuel. In early spring, the engine started missing while driving (about 1/3 of the time). After taking to the shop a couple times, my mechanic basically gave up. I believe it's time for a new mechanic. I may also give up and just get a newer truck, but not quite ready yet.
I suspected water in the tank, knowing that ethanol can attract moisture, so i ran the tank dry then bought 5 gallons ethanol free fuel (i live in the country where we can still find it). Engine started, ran great for a few months, and i thought i had solved the problem...until yesterday, when the engine started doing the same thing again just as it did when the problem originally started.
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Today I was out test driving trucks. I found a truck that I fell in love with down the street from my mom's. It is a Ford f150 with a 5.3L Titan V8 engine with 4 wheel drive. When I went to test drive it with the initial turn of the key it smelled of gas but quickly went away. When I went down and had the step dad take a look at it we smelled it again but it went away even quicker the second time.
It has been sitting for 6mo prior to this drive other than it moving from Point A to Point be about 3 months ago.
Might I also add.. I bought the truck. My brother in law asked me if it was fuel injected and had that smell, I said "yes". He said I would have a big problem. Do I?
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I have a '95 Ford F150 with a manual transmission and when I come to a stop light, the engine will either idle down more then it should then go back to normal or it will idle down and then stall out. And when I accelerate, I have to gun the engine for it to go forward or it will stall out again. I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the air intake area and it still happens.
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Recently, I was stopped in my 03 F-150 with 124,000 miles. All of the sudden one day, the engine started knocking. The knocking was coming from lower in the engine. After sitting for about two hours, I started it again. At first, no knocking, then intermittent knocking, then steady and after about 3 or 4 min, the knocking stops all together. Oil level has always been checked and it has never run low on oil. What on earth causes an intermittent knock?
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My truck has about 100,000mi and has had all the scheduled maintenance.
My 2006 5.4 engine cuts out under medium acceleration when accelerating from a stop. Happens when warm or cold. Works fine under light acceleration. Cut out happens before it shifts into second. Cuts out just for a second, then resumes. Stumbles twice under heavy acceleration. Very repeatable.
I noticed the gas was low - above E but below 1/4. So I filled up at the gas station. The problem went away. I had this issue with a 1980s fuel injected VW - it would get a vacuum lock on the gas tank. But with this truck I did not notice and inrush of air when I took the gas cap off.
I suppose it could be the gasoline sloshing towards the rear of the tank, away from the fuel inlet pickup.
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I has been quite cold in my area lately. Buy cold, I mean like 0 or a few degrees below. We also had some snow which ahs made it a requirement to drive my 4WD Ford truck with the 4.6L engine. This is a 1997 Ford F-150 light duty which is the oddball with the 7 lug wheels among others. It is 4WD with a manual transmission. The truck has close to 300k on it and I was told it had a used engine installed when I bought the truck but have never been able to verify this. The engine runs well without odd noises or clanks and doesn't burn or use oil. I have the O'Reilly brand 5W30 synthetic oil in the engine.
There has been a strange whine that comes from the engine at startup in these very cold temps. This only lasts a few short seconds and quickly goes away. I have the manual transmission in neutral so I figure it is engine related and not the transmission. It sounds like a gear noise or whine so I am assuming maybe the oil is too thick to get through the oil pump, timing chain, or similar.
This only happens at cold starts when it is VERY cold outside but I wanted to make sure this wasn't a sign of impending failure. The truck runs well otherwise and I would gladly replace the oil pump if it were going out. I was also thinking about switching to a 0W30 as the truck is mostly used in the winter anyway if the oil not being thick enough is a possibility.
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