Have 1994 F150 with 5.0L engine. Check engine light, intermittent on due to overheated O2 sensor. Replace sensor, light goes off. The sensor will last longer in cold weather but will fail with same code. Is the overheating due to an electrical problem from the ECU or ambient tempreture. Would like to sell truck but don't want to hand the buyer a dozen O2 sensors.
View 3 RepliesMy check engine light has been coming on at 60mph. It will go off at 58 or 65mph. I could drive those speeds on the freeway, but would rather repair the problem. I've replaced the O2 sensor after 180,000 miles. I did notice I have a 2 inch hole in my muffler.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford F-150 v6 2wd. A few weeks ago, the check engine light turned on so I drove to the nearest autozone to hook up their computer and see what the error code was. The technician gave me the code (I don't remember it off the top of my head but it wasn't something imminent). Before leaving, I asked him if he could clear the light, figuring that if it didn't come back on after 50 miles, that it might have just been a fluke with one of the truck's sensors. Later that day, I realized that when I started the truck, the check engine light was no longer turning on momentarily the way that all the dashboard lights do to tell you that they're working.
I went back to a different autozone (one closer to my house) and explained the situation. They checked the computer for codes again and found none and said that the light must not be turning on because the bulb is burned out. I find this to be a striking coincidence that the bulb should happen to blow out exactly when the technician used his computer to clear the light. Is it possible that he did something with his computer that permanently disabled the check engine light? It's been a few weeks and I've since bought an inexpensive bluetooth code reader of my own, hooked it up, and found that there is still no active code. Is it possible that the code has returned or will return, but that I won't have a way to know because something he did suppressed not just the light but my car's code reporting mechanism?
For now, the truck drives fine, but I'm afraid to travel long distances when there might be a problem I don't know about.
1997 Ford F150 - 133K Miles - 6cyl - 4.2L. This is a truck that gets less than 2K/year put on it. Has had "issues" with worn bearings and holding oil pressure for a few years now. Yesterday, the check engine light started flashing (as opposed to solidly lit) and the code came back as a cylinder #4 misfire (only the one code). The truck was clearly not firing on all cylinders and at idle, ran terribly (couldn't be driven). I just did a compression test on all the cylinders and all measured around 140-145psi except the #4 which read almost 170psi. I rechecked this a few times as well as a couple of the others and am now sure of the results. What could cause this one cylinder to have a higher compression ? Is whatever is causing this increase in the compression, also be the cause of them misfire ?? I'm stumped here and quite frankly, expected the compression on the #4 cylinder to be really low as opposed to the others.
View 13 RepliesMy vehicle is a 98 F150 5.4 ltr Triton. I got a check engine light on and the error is "bank 2, system too lean." I read that this can be caused by a few different things like vacuum leaks or fuel filter and so far I haven't been able to narrow down. It started with occasional shaking at idle and its happening more as time goes. When at idle it often makes a sound like slurping the bottom of a drink with a straw and shakes intermittently. The fuel economy seems to have gone down. Sometimes it seems like it almost dies in idle, but always keeps running. It runs great when I push on the gas.
View 4 RepliesPurchased certified pre owned 2009 f150 may/2010 24,000 mile. The check engine light intermittently comes and goes. It seems that its either cold temperature or related to filling the gas tank. The first time it appeared I drove 100 mile then the truck sat over the weekend and went back off when started. The second time had serviced for the check light and the dealer diagnostic pin pointed P0304, P0305, P0300 and P0316 and replaced cyl 4&5 coils.
Prior to the replacement of the coils the truck averaged 18.2 mpg since the repair the mpg dropped to 17.6 and now at 17.2mpg. Had the truck in again and the light was on when I made the appointment but went back off when I went to the dealer. They said the reset the computer. The light twice has since went on and then back off after a couple days. The only observation is that the outside temperature on both occurrences has been below freezing and that I had filled up the tank.
Intermittently blinking check engine light in a 2003(?) Ford Escape. I received a call from my fiance, who's about 45 minutes into a two hour drive. On the interstate, her check engine light started blinking, so she pulls off the interstate to a gas station (the light was blinking for maybe five minutes before she could stop, according to her). After she was off the interstate, but before she had turned the engine off, the blinking stopped.
She called me, and I looked up and directed her to an AutoZone about a half mile from where she was. Told her to drive there, and have them to try to read any codes from the engine. She drives over, engine light stays off the entire time. They hook up the reader, and there aren't any codes. My question is, if the check engine light stops blinking, and there aren't any codes for the reader, is the car safe to drive, or will she destroy the cat if she keeps going? Also, it's raining, if that matters for any reason.
When the battery light on my F-150 came on (about 100,00), the dealer put on a new alternator. This has now been done 3 times in the last year, and the battery light still comes on intermittently. They have no ideas about what to do.
View 3 Replies1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 5.0, the check engine light is on and my code reader gives P0161 and P0155 both stating that the O2 heater circuit sensor is bad. I replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors in the truck, cleared the codes but they still keep coming back. I have tried for a few days now to find something online similar to this but have had no luck. I am not sure what else to do.
View 1 RepliesI have a 06 chevy 3500 express van with a 6.0 engine. The engine light came on about the O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 came up on the on the scan tool. It run great. how do I fix it
View 4 RepliesI had a check engine light pop up and I went and got it checked out. Comes to be its a IAT sensor or bad connection with this sensor. I change the sensor and made sure the wires on it is all good. The question is, I still have the check engine light up, does the code need to be deleted? And what happens if the code gets deleted and problem is not fixed?
View 3 RepliesJust over 6000 miles....Yesterday morning the light came on. Dealer wouldn't look at it for a week. Went to my mechanic this morning to check the code it was p0181 fuel temp sensor. I read something online about the block heater making it too warm. The other night it was cold so I plugged it in, then yesterday morning it got warm overnight like into the lower 40s. I noticed the grill felt warm too. My mechanic cleared it if it comes back on do I have an issue? Is it ok to drive?
View 14 RepliesMy check engine light comes on intermittently, fuel consumption normal. I have not had any noticeable performance issues. I took it to O'Rielly's for a scan but they could not establish a connection to get a readout. Is there a special scan tool needed? The on board Lan Monitor shows EMV codes below, are they meaningful in any way?
Code Sub-code
01-DC 190-38-5
01-D5 190-52-F
01-D8 190-35-1
01-DB 190-11-F
01-DB 110-21-2
The check engine light came on in my 05 so took my local shop and they checked the code and said it was the Idle Sensor. They were not able to make the repair. Since then the light went off for a few days then came back on. I now notice the gas motor does not turn off when I stop at a traffic light.
View 14 RepliesMy check engine light just came on around 7000miles on my 2014 IS350. Dealer says that I need a new O2 sensor. Just wanted to see if this is common and O2 sensor replaced within the 1st year?
View 7 Replies1989 toyota 4runner. O2 sensor is bad and has the check engine light on. No need to spend $100+ on the sensor. Is there a way to disable it so the light goes off?
View 19 RepliesI recently purchased a 3.5 V6 Santa fe. The Check engine light keeps going on. I took it to a few shops and I am getting the same code. It is the O2 sensor in bank one. (I think the the code was po170.) The light keeps going on and off. All I can find are the same problems with different Santa Fe engines (2.7, etc. )... My SUV has 100,050 miles on it.
View 1 RepliesI've owned my 2012 F-250, 6.7L for less than a week and it has a check engine light. The local dealer can't see me for a week, and I need to leave town next week.
I went to AutoZone to have the codes checked and this is what they came back with:
P2033
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2
P2031
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 2
Can I drive on these codes, or should I park the truck until Ford can see me?
You know the "mechanic's fiances truck" problem. I recently replaced the cam sensor in my 05' F250 Gas. The check engine light had been on for a while before that and my truck rode great, however I now want to sell it and I can't do that with a check engine light on. It's got about 85k miles on it.
After replacing the sensor, the light went off for about 20 miles, but it is now back on and my truck seems to miss every once in a while on acceleration or cruising. Some days it's worse than others. The check engine light still says cam sensor, but the sensor is brand new.
My fiance is a mechanic, so I don't know all the details about code numbers and such. However, I want to sell this truck pretty soon, and I would like it to run correctly. His dad (another mechanic) seems to think it could be a coil and wants to wait for that light to come on, but I would rather fix the problem and sell the truck!
2000 Dakota, 4.7 V8 ... The 'CHECK GAUGES' light comes on intermittently. As soon as it comes on, the voltmeter gauge drops to zero (it is a brand new battery); the temperature gauge does flip flops; the truck dies right now. Walk home and come back later, and it starts up again. When you get home, you sure don't feel secure in taking it on the road again. The shop checked it and of course there was nothing wrong when they had it Where do I start the troubleshoot? Is it computer or?
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