Battery warning light came on a couple of times when driving to work in my 2000 F-150. I had thought that the instrument lights had looked dim for a couple of days. The warning light was only when the truck was idling and the warning went off as the truck was moving.
View 8 RepliesWhen the battery light on my F-150 came on (about 100,00), the dealer put on a new alternator. This has now been done 3 times in the last year, and the battery light still comes on intermittently. They have no ideas about what to do.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 F-150 4.6L V-8, and the battery light is staying on. Something is draining the battery. I have taken it to Auto Zone, and they tested the battery (brand new), starter, and alternator - all show good. The only error they can register is "C1226 brake light lamp short." What could be causing this? I had to get jump started at a gas station 2 nights ago. I have checked the alternator fuse, and it is ok. Could the wiring be bad somewhere?
View 4 RepliesI've been trying to trace down a issue with the airbag warning light flashing. The seatbelt light is flashing also. The airbag code is 53. If i search it i get the front crash sensor..I replaced it with a new sensor and pigtail. Other than that the search leads me to believe it could be anything.
I've checked and clean every connection that i could find. I haven't removed the center console yet to check the module. I did buy the truck last fall as a winter/work truck. The issue started a couple of months after i started driving it. Not sure if the module would just go bad.
I have a 1999 Ford F150 6 cyl. 4.2, 2 WD with 160,000 miles. Replaced the battery May 2010.
Today battery light came on. Battery gauge did not look like it was discharging. Had battery checked they said it was a little low but OK. Then they continued test and tried to check alternator, test stopped and they said something wrong with alternator most likely.
I took alternator out and had it bench tested. They said it was OK, putting out 98 amp on 95 amp alternator. They said check wires, grounds, harness, connections. Checked connections and wires as much as possible, reinstalled alternator, light still on.
Have not checked fuses yet. Was told to start vehicle, disconnect positive battery cable and if engine continued to run alternator was good, if cut off alternator was bad and to replace. Should I try this and is it true?
What is the part on the fire wall that is between the alternator and the battery that the wire connection runs through? Can it be bench tested/checked?
Start out, drive about 20 minutes, get on the Interstate and the battery light comes on 2008 F 150 5.4L 4X4 - 57K miles..... get to my destination, went about 20 miles, turn around to come home, without turning the truck off because of the battery light being on and I notice the charging gauge drifting down to the left, get back on the Interstate and the wipers are slowing down and lights on the dash are dimming.....go around 15 more minutes I lose all lights on dash, wipers, defroster everything, charging gauge is now pegged all the way down to the left and the truck is starting to act up running like crap so I barely make it off the Interstate and call a flatbed, I guess I was about an hour into the trip ..... battery is only about a year old and it started fine that morning and the day before when it was about 12 degrees ...... dealership had the truck, just gave me a call and said they can't find anything ?? ..... never a days problem since I bought it new in late 07' ....
View 5 RepliesProblem with my 2006 F150 5.4 4x4... Voltmeter spikes, battery light comes on, grinding noise as 4x4 engages on its own then everything returns to normal after about 60 seconds. Took to Ford who replaced the alternator and battery, still doing it so they replaced the alternator again...they checked the wiring and replaced some other misc parts and don't know what the problem is. The problem occurs once every few days, after only a few minutes or after a few hours, completely random.
View 6 RepliesThe past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
View 14 RepliesIt was a chilly morning for North Texas, in low 20's this morning. I started my truck in the driveway driveway, as I do any morning when it cold out, then retreated back the house to grab my coffee before hitting the road to work. This morning was different, the engine had stalled out but the battery still had the lights and radio on. Any thoughts on this aside from the usual guesses of cylinder, fuel pump and purge valve?
View 5 RepliesBefore I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
View 7 RepliesHaving problems with the A/C on F150 2006 or newer. It blows warm air while idling. I have taken mine to 2 different dealerships had Ford engineers down and no one can seem to find the problem. I love Ford vehicles but I can't handle this in the these hot summers.
View 10 RepliesI have an 87 f150 inline 6 efi. The truck will not rev over 2000 rpm even when idling. It has a new fuel filter. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesI would like to know what's happening, it seems as if idling for a minute to let my transmission temperature dial raise past the lowest line on the dial fixes or at least drastically reduces a couple issues.
The truck will deliver power much smoother off the line. I've been concerned about this for a while. The degree to which it happened wasn't constant but it seems like the truck is having trouble grabbing on (so to say) to the power coming off the line. I sort of liken it to a rope. When I give it the beans the rope goes forward but it takes a half a second or so for the truck to "grab" on to the rope. Never hard shifts, it's just delivering the power off the line or from a near stop.
Idling for a minute seems to fix this, power delivery is smooth off the line. Transmission dipstick was nice and pink but smelled slightly burnt. This is with the engine cold overnight. Didn't have time to do multiple wipes or check in the handbook for the proper methods of checking fluid, I just pulled it out quickly to take a look before heading out. Fluid covered the whole tip.
Second issue that seems to be fixed is that the battery light doesn't come on nearly as much and not for nearly as long. Typically the battery light will come on and off seemingly on its own whim during the drive. However, it seems to stay more consistently off if I idle right after startup.
Now bear in mind I baby my truck, I don't rev it high right after startup. Just low enough to cruise around the parking lot until I hit the road then I accelerate up to 40 - 60 depending on my route. I'd gladly give it the minute to warm up in the future but if I could get down to the bottom of this that'd be preferred, I doubt this is required behavior.
I do realize that these issues are not tied to startup behavior but I find it interesting that idling for a minute at startup to let the transmission gauge rise seems to mitigate these symptoms.
I have an 86 F150 that is idling rough. It used to cut out on me until I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I have read in other posts that the problem for my rough idle could be leaking injectors. When I replaced the regulator I found a bad injector. My question is that if I check my fuel pressure, with the new regulator, would the only way I would lose pressure be that my injectors are leaking?
View 5 Replies1994 f150 with 4.9L I6; 180k mi.
Parked vehicle last night after using it uneventfully for work the day before. Upon leaving the house at 11:30 AM, I noticed that I'd picked up a new mechanical noise. Nothing major; actually wasn't sure I heard anything at all.
As I drove to the store, I noticed it was idling slightly unsteady...much less so than a missing cylinder. I resolved to check the high-tension connectors when I got home for security. I glanced down at the gauges to check and see if my oil pressure was good; I then noticed coolant temp reading "high normal."
When I got out, I noticed a small pool of coolant forming. I looked at where the puddle was forming...the radiator hose had come off! (Actually separate from the radiator connector, as one might do if draining fluid without using the petcock.) I popped the hood: no unusual smells. Nothing seemed abnormally hot. Placing a finger against the head was uncomfortable, but not painful. Spit expectorated upon the head did not sizzle.
I then called my wife, explaining the situation, and walked back home 2 miles. We then took the spare car, bought antifreeze, and added it about an hour post-shutdown. Where the car was parked seemed wetter than the light drizzle allowed; daubing a finger in it and tasting gave a slight sweet taste.
I tend to check my fluid every so often (not every day, though) and coolant was verified as "full" as recently as 100 miles ago. (I don't make a habit of crawling underneath, though, so I couldn't tell you if hose had been slowly backing off or not.)
As to cause: is it plausible that this could happen without foul play? There have been a few vandalism incidents in the neighborhood; it's also possible that I [peeved] off a neighbor recently. I'm not about to go any further than fixing, though, unless there's really no other plausible explanation.
As to the mechanical questions: How much damage was done? Did I "catch it" in time? What is suggested as far as repairs/maintenance? (I was planning on doing a compression test, and keeping a close eye on fluid levels over the next 1,000 miles or so.) Engine sounds completely normal.
A warning light has come on stating" Key battery low". How do I fix this?
View 18 RepliesBut while driving the hybrid warning light turned on in the MTD. A red car if I remember correctly. It was the hybrid battery over heating and to try and mess with the wiring going to the cooling fan in the right rear quarter panel.
View 6 RepliesI just purchased a 2006 Prius with 89k miles and it has a problem with the drive train and randomly losing all power on the freeway causing me to make emergency shoulder stops to reset the car.
The symptoms are as follows:
-red triangle on, orange circle with ! on, check engine light on, hybrid monitor green car symbol is red with ! in it
-traction battery fan is always on when car is powered
-the car has never driven under electric power
-shifting problems, sluggish acceleration and all power loss on freeway
-hybrid monitor system lies and shows the battery full one second and empty the next.
My 12v battery died, I tried recharging it etc, but it was dead so I took it to my local Toyota dealer and had the battery replaced.
Because I had the battery off, there was a VSC warning light, which I thought that the Toyota dealer could reset. They re-calibrated all the warning apart from one, they say that the Yaw sensor will not clear it's warning and needs to be replaced.
if I can reset this warning myself, or do I really need to replace this sensor?
A couple of times this winter my 2007 Santa Fe with a 3.3 engine acted like it didn't want to start. I thought battery! However, it stopped doing that, and I kept driving it.
On the way home from work, I noticed the ESC Off light showing, so I pushed the button and it stayed lit. Then I noticed the battery warning light lit. Made it home and pulled into the garage. Turned off the engine and tried to start, no go.
I have changed two batteries this year in my two other Hyundai's, so I just pulled it and got a new one. Installed the new one, started the engine, and the battery warning light is still lit. Must be the alternator.
I have 68k on the vehicle, so I counted myself lucky that the battery lasted that long. I guess I am due for a new alternator too.
What are the chances that it is just the regulator? Can I safely drive to and from work then to the dealership. Round trip is 30 miles.
The alternator on my wifes '07 Santa Fe (2.2 CRDI) broke down when one of the internal diodes gave up last week. The battery warning light came on when she was driving to work. Since then the Alternator has been rebuilt and refitted, and the battery fully charged. The car now runs fine and the Alternator is putting out around 14.6v so charging the battery OK. The only problem is the warning light is still on. How to get it to turn off ?
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