Ford - F150 :: 2013 - Exhaust Pop After 20 Seconds When Truck Started
May 20, 2014
When I start my truck in the mornings. In 20 seconds + -, there an exhaust "pop". I'm assuming its to warm up the turbos. The manual says to warm them up before driving. The engine is an engineering marvel, unlike my Cub Cadet that has a plastic hose to push in the oil drain and the filter don't have a hole in the metal frame for the oil to run into the catch basin. I hope that engineer dies a slow painful death
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
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Mechanics cannot find out why it occasionally does not start and has to be jumped off. If left not driven for a day walk out next morning try to start and it has to be jumped off. It only has 8,000 miles on it. 2013 Ford F150
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1997 F150... Truck has slowly started getting worse and worse performance. About 3 weeks ago the truck started rattling from the exhaust, Towing my trailer the other day, the truck had NO power, I thought it was the plugs, so I replaced them.
Now the rattle is worse (no lose heat shields). I am blowing the little tubes off the drivers side exhaust manifold, the ones that go to the DPFE sensor.
Did I mention, that the truck has no power, sluggish, now I am dumping hot exhaust fumes into the engine compartment. Still got the rattle underneath.
I think the cat is plugged up on the drivers side. (which probably explains all my symptoms)
Any other reason for the rattle literally coming from the drivers side cat and the little tubes being blown off?
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When I start my truck it takes 30 seconds or so for the truck to start moving... especially when in reverse. If I give it some gas it doesn't take quite as long. I am not a transmission guy. I assume it has something to do with building pressure but I don't know what would be the cause. The fluid is full and looks good.
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I have notice maybe a dozen times in the last few weeks that my 2013 5.0 Screw downshifts at odd times. It usually occurs while coasting around 35-40 mph (in 4th gear and downshifts to 2nd gear) or around 50 mph (in 5th gear and downshifts to 3rd gear). Obviously when this occurs, the rpms jump and when I get into the gas, the truck takes a few seconds to accelerate because it first must shift into the next higher gear. What is causing this?
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Ok, probably about 1/3 times i start my 96 f150 4.9 with true duals, the left pipe has a higher pitched howling noise, its a steady tone whether I rev the truck up or not it just gets louder. It will do it for about 6 seconds and then stop. The truck doesn't run badly because of it, but i took her to autozone to get her scanned and they said that the oxygen sensor on the first manifold bank has a slow response on startup. Is that what causes this strange noise, I don't even know how it would make it, it sounds much different from the engine. The right pipe doesn't do anything.
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I just got a brand new 2008 F150 supercrew FX2 last wed. I love it, it's my first truck ever and I'm excited to drive it. I wanted to change the exhaust to something that has a low rumble and is deep, not too loud or anything.
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I have a 95 f150, Eddie Bauer, extended cab, 4x4, 302, 285 tires. My question is this... What happens if I remove the second cat. I am trying to get a better sound from the exhaust and have been told the second cat is making that impossible. There is no o2 sensor downstream of the second cat, so I'm thinking the computer will never know its gone. Also how well this affect power. With the bigger tires, it's kinda sluggish off the line.
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The truck in question is a 93 F-150 X/cab 4x4, has 5.0 5spd. So yesterday i replaced my exhaust with pre made magnaflow "y" pipe/cat with a flow master 44 then new pipe all the way out. When i start the truck up this morning to let it warm up a little it started to give off a funny smell almost like brakes/electric burning smell. I was wondering if this is common for new pipes to burn off any oils that may have collected on them from the factory. I look under the truck and nothing is touching the exhaust, but the shiny new pipe is starting to change colors. So do you think it will go away in a short time? I have to an appointment about 30 miles away on the freeway think this will burn off?. BTW there was no smell prior to the exhaust change.
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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Ive been having a problem where the engine cranks and idles, sometimes rough, then I try to accelerate and the car shakes and accelerates very slowly with shaking. I replaced plugs coil and leads and fuel filter with no effect but put on a new egr valve and that fixed the problem for 2 months. The same thing happened again and I cleaned the evr solenoid and that fixed the problem for 1 month. Then the same thing happened while I was out and while limping home it fixed itself. Now a month later, the same thing happened, but when I got home and shut it off, the engine won't idle properly (very rough) for 6-9 seconds then dies. I don't know what to check at this point. Thinking it may be vacuum related or possibly a fuel injector or magic gremlins at this point.
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I have a 2004 f150 LAriat supercab 5.4L triton with 120,000 mile on it. Without good reason, I let the dealer convince me to put new plugs in it. Ever since, I've had a serious smell in the cabin of gasoline and or exhaust, and a 2MPG drop in MPG. At first it smelled like gasoline. I took it back to the dealer and they said a connector had backed off, which is code for I don't even want to know what. They "fixed it" but the smell remained.
They then changed the rings on the fuel injectors. The smell got better, but there is more of an exhaust smell now. I checked many blogs about it and found several bloggers with almost the same exact situation. I suggested to the dealer that they need to check that the proper spark plugs were used and they were correctly seated. They of course confirmed this but God only knows if they actually checked.
I also looked up to see if there is a cabin filter on this vehicle and there seams to be some disagreement on the blogs about this fact as well. Now that the cold weather has arrived, I prefer not to take the cowl off or check the plugs myself until it gets a little warmer. The smell is noticeable most of the time and especially stopped at a light regardless of the heater or air conditioner. Should I be more worried about the smell or the fact that I actually took it to this dealer in the first place?
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Had the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. So I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
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So I was wondering where the O2 sensors are on the 04 f150s and if I could cut the rear set of cats out without throwing off those sensors?
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I have a 94 f150 with the 351 and i was wondering how loud it would be with that huge stock muffler cut off and jsut the two cats still in place. I heard the cats will still quite it down a little bit cuz I don't want anything obnoxiously loud...
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I currently have dual exhausts on my 2002 F150 and that's all I have besides stock for the exhaust system. How can I make it louder without getting rid of the duals?
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302 V8. Autolite 2150 carb. Auto-tranny. My vintage Ford truck which I love has developed a problem where it idles too fast for too long after warm-up. What I mean is that it is normal when it works correctly for it to idle fast for a few minutes until it warms up, at which point the idle speed slows down to normal. The way it works when it is working correctly, after a few minutes to warm up, I step on the gas pedal briefly, and the idle speed to kicks down. That's the way it is supposed to work. It seems actually like there are actually three idle speeds when it is working correctly. Fast, not quite as fast, and normal, all accessed via the kick down operation. Working correctly, it takes maybe three minutes to kick down the two steps to the normal idle speed. Does that sound right?
Anyway, the problem is that now it stays at the highest idle speed for 15 minutes. Eventually it kicks down to normal. But the high idle speed is too much for 15 minutes. Plus as it warms up the high idle speed becomes even higher since it doesn't kick down like it should. So it becomes difficult to keep the speed below 25 mph even w/out pressing on the gas pedal. It idles at about 25 mph for 15 minutes as it warms up!
I looked at my Chilton's manual -- better than nothing, but barely -- and it mentions something about a vacuum choke kickdown, a heat riser gadget, and the auto-choke. How to test each one to find what the problem is?
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I want to replace the auto trans coolant lines on my 2001 F150 4.2L. I discovered I can actually see the top coolant line flare nut from outside the right wheel well, with the wheel and wheel liner removed. The lower line is just a few inches below. See photo, it's a little off, so the line connector is not seen:
The heat shield is just a little bit in the way for my hands, I have to put one through the red circled area. A 1/2" hex head bolt holds the shield to the frame (circled in green). This was easy to remove from the wheel well. After that the heat shield could be moved slightly away from the points I need to access.
I would prefer to unfasten the shield & move it out of the way for my hands. I found another bolt holding the rear end of the shield down to the frame, wasn't able to remove this - the bolt fastens to a U-nut in the frame that broke off & has trapped the bolt. Are there any other bolts fastening the heat shield down?
I was able to remove the old flare nuts with a 5/8" flare nut wrench, but have not been able to start the new nuts into their fittings, just not quite enough visibility and access.
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I have a F-150 2005, since 3 mo. ago when I turn it on, all the gauges in the dashboard start "twinkling" and after 5 sec. return to normal operation. What's the reason? Do I have to worry?
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I have a 2012 Ford F150 that has started to slip (for lack of a better word), every time I come to a complete stop. It takes a few seconds, but then gunk! It just slips/jumps forward a little bit. Nothing after that. A buddy told me he thinks my U-Joint is going out. What else it might possible be?
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