Ford - F150 :: 2007 - Pronounced Vibration When Apply The Brakes
Mar 17, 2012
I have a 2007 F150 FX-2 which i bought new. I have about 60,000 miles on it, and every 8,000-10,000 miles i develop a pronounced vibration when i apply the brakes. When i first had this problem, at about 10,000 miles on the odometer, the dealership replaced the pads and turned the rotors, but the problem resurfaced before another 5,000 miles had passed. About 10,000 miles later the problem resurfaced, the dealership said they replaced the rotors.
The problem resurfaced again at about 37,000 miles, but the dealership claimed that since I was out of warranty. Being handy, I replaced the rotors myself, but now, about 15,000 miles later, I'm experiencing this issue again. Is this just a common problem i will have to live with? I don't tow anything, and i rarely load the bed with anything. Maybe a trip to the hardware store once a quarter and i load a motorcycle into the bed two or three times a year.
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When I apply the brakes on and off while in park, I hear a "fluttering squeaking" noise. I examined the brake pads and calipers, and everything seems to be fine. I greased up all the brake hardware and no luck.
Also, I have a popping noise while making turns while I am not braking. I really doubt there is any connection with the brakes? I recently went testing in a parking lot, and while slightly turning from left to right I noticed the popping constantly. Keep in mind no brakes were applied.
Last year the dealer replaced the brake actuator and all arms were replaced. BTW, I am past my extended 100K warranty!!
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I have a 2007 Avalon and really enjoy the car. The only fault I can find is the weird shifting. It seems like every time that I apply the brakes, the car will downshift immediately and the whole car will jerk left/right due to the sudden downshift. Sometimes it will shift back up and cause the car to jerk a little but will be smooth after. Some times I apply the brakes and it does nothing.
I also get the occasional hard shift but the bigger issue here is the downshift while braking. It kind of ruins the driving experience on an otherwise great car as one tends to use the brakes often. It's especially annoying while going down a hill and applying the brakes. I have watched the tachometer before and noticed it jumps up to 3k or so from a normal 1500 or so RPM's. It may not be downshifting per say, but it's definitely doing something.
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I just installed new brake pads in my 2WD 2009 Santa Fe. I bought the cheapest AutoZone pads. Now I have a loud squeal sound when I apply the brakes. If I apply a hard brake the squeal goes away. Until I apply the brakes again. Now, after install...I have been researching and noticed that the stock pads are ceramic. I did apply (Not once but twice) break grease on the pads. What the problem might be? Oh yeah, I did see that after 2007, oiling the caliper springs is required and might be the problem too. But I do not know where the spring in question is and how to oil it.
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe Limited that has 93k on it. Within the last year I have noticed the steering wheel will shimmy when you apply the brakes at high speeds, it's slowly came to the point now that anything above 40mph will cause the steering wheel to shake while applying the brakes. I am guessing I have warped or unevenly worn front rotors. The car supposedly had a break job done at 74k and this started happening at about the 90k mark.
I was looking at these : Front Performance Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for Santa FE 07 09
Second question, any tool list or required sockets sizes to complete a front rotor and pad replacement? I have a floor jack, jack stands, a set of 3/8 deep metric sockets. I also have a breaker bar. This is my only car so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start taking stuff apart.
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I have recently noticed that if I am driving at speeds above 40 mph and apply the brakes, the car (including the steering wheel) seems to buck/shake. I've learned to ease off the gas and let the speed drop before applying the brakes-- this seems to work, but I'm concerned about what is going on. This is an '07 Nissan Versa...
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2001 F150 2WD 4.6 102,000 miles.... All rotors and pads replaced by a shop and the trouble began. The shop swore it was my tires and like a dummie I took it to Sams and had my tires replaced.
What's been done? New BFG Long Trail T/A Touring Tires, rotors and pads were replaced a second time, new Monroe shocks and the shocks were replaced a second time, new U-joints, front wheel bearings repacked, ball joints inspected and have slight wear, new driveshaft at 20,000 miles, two new rims, two new back tires of same type, wheels balanced over and over with road force equipment. All this got rid of a dangerous shake at 67 mph but did not affect the 42 mph bounce.
I now have a pronounced bounce at 42 mph. I have an annoying vibration at 67 mph that is present 97% of the time and an occasional smooth ride for 3-4 miles on the interstate before the vibration resumes. The ride is always rough until the tires warm up. I think the vibration is caused by the road and the truck can't stop it, but I'm not sure. Three shops are scratching their heads.
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I get this loud click noise coming from the front end of my vehicle when I apply the brakes. It seems to happen much more often than not, especially at low speeds. I can only describe it as some sort of loud clicky clanky sound, it's also a single sound, it doesn't go on and on and it only happens when I apply the brakes.
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1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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I had all my brakes done on my 2000 Ford Taurus but my mechanic cant seam to fix my front right brake. The problem is the front right brake grabs unevenly after driving the car for twenty minutes. The vibration happens mostly between 20 and 30 mph when I apply the brake. First he put new ceramic brake pads on and machines the rotor. Then the original calipers seized. He then replaced the calipers. Then the calipers they replaced seized. He then replaced the calipers and pads again. Two weeks later the uneven braking starts again. He then re-machines the rotor or replaces them. Two weeks later the uneven braking starts again. What is going on?
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I just got my first car: 1997 Ford Explorer XLT 130k miles, drives great and I drove like 1200 miles already, got balljoints changed but still have a problem: when car is on position D and i apply brakes it starts shaking from inside: seats, main console and steering wheel vibrating (kind of tough when i drive a lot). And one more question: how can i increase MPG i got 4.0L but it consumes a lot: 9MPG CITY and 16MPG HIGHWAY.....
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I recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
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2000 Excursion V10 4x4. I'm getting a popping noise coming from the rear end when I apply the brakes and come to a complete stop and when I release the brakes to take off. It only happens the moment it comes to a complete stop and the moment it takes off. Not when I'm putting it in forward or reverse or accelerating or decelerating. U joints are fine. I was laying under the truck poking around the other day and when I roll it back and forth in park the few inches it'll go, when it comes to the end of it's travel the axle wraps a little and it seems like the transfer case output shaft flange is moving in and out of the transfer case and causing the noise. I'm assuming there is a snap ring holding the output bearing in place. I didn't have time to drop the driveshaft but am planning on it this weekend to see if it still does it when I roll it and to inspect the transfer case. I need to check to make sure the driveshaft splines are not seized up but they seem to have a little free play to them.
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Every time I apply brakes I hear a weird humming noise, as well as no stopping power. Checked fluids and pads and everything is where it should be. I heard abs can cause this but not sure on that. I know my master cylinder has a very small leak but it hasn't lost any fluids of that sort. I'm lost. I don't know where else to look.
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Have 65k now..OEM breaks. Never an issue.. going along today had to make a fast turn left into a parking area. Hit the brakes doing about 50 made the turn. Slowly found and kept rolling to a parking spot. Went to apply the brakes and found the pedal was rock hard. The truck kept rolling slowly. Pure luck I was were I was.. I tried to shut the truck down and restart. Still rock hard pedal in up position. No breaks.. not enough to stop at idle. Checked the brake fluid and it was fine. Went inside the store to grab the delivery and when I came back out I tried to work the pedal down.. I felt some give.. put it in reverse to check it out..(couldn't go ahead no room.) slowly the breaks came back. Has been fine since.. driving all over town today. No codes or engine lights.
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My AM radio has terrible reception. There is humming noise that goes away when I apply the brakes. I will bring it to the dealer, but I know what they will say, "cannot duplicate problem" or "radio operation found to be normal".
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2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L .... I have 82,000 miles. Bought with 65,000 miles.
Now when I apply brakes at 60 mph or above i get wobbling (Vibration) on my steering wheel these days. Is it the rotors or pads or both or any alignment issues?
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I have a dry metal on metal squawk noise when I reverse, I have taken it to a VW dealer, and they say "there is nothing wrong", or that they "cannot find anything". The noise is not constant, just when I apply the brakes in reverse.
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