Ford - F150 :: 2003 - Takes Longer Time To Start Up Randomly
Nov 29, 2014
Occasionally my 2003 f150 takes longer to start than Id like. Lets say 2-3 seconds before it fires. It turns over plenty fast so Its not a battery crapping out. Runs great once it lights. I replaced the spark plugs but that didn't change it. Once again this just happens every now and then. 120k on the clock. Should I suspect a fuel pump showing its age? Oh, I should also note I changed the fuel filter a few months back.
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My truck is a 1990 Ford F150. It seems like when I let it sit for a few min that the gas just drains back into the tank and there for it wont start up that fast, it takes a while to get it going but when I shut it off and start it back up its like a new truck. It starts right up!!! Any tips on what might be wrong, maybe the gas cap is letting pressure out? Im 17 and my dad knows alot about trucks but he cant tell whats wrong.
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I have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2L gas motor, 50k miles.
Recently, I've noticed it takes longer to start. The motor will crank at regular speed but will take longer to start. It's always taken longer than a single rotation from day one but lately it's gotten really bad.
Even more recently, I hear a ticking noise under load, or even sometimes at idle. It sounds like an exhaust leak or worn lifter noise. Could these somehow be connected? What this could be?
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I just got an 03 6.0 and a few days ago it developed a rough idle, it takes a little longer to crank and idles fine for 30 seconds to a minute then the rough idle kicks in also I noticed when I drive it the low rpm range is a little choppy and when I come to a stop it goes a little below idle then resumes the rough idle issue. I had it die on the road a day prior to this after it lost complete power at a red light, it started to idle low so I tried to counteract with a little throttle and with the throttle all the way it did nothing, a few minutes it died on the road and took a few minutes to start back up I did a set of filters and it hasn't done it again but I still have the rough idle, I checked the icp sensor and wiring no oil so I cleaned it up a bit and it runs a little smoother.
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My car had some minor front end damage repaired by a body shop. Since I got it back the a/c takes longer to start blowing cold air. If I drive it daily the a/c starts up normally. But if the car sits for a few days, it may take anywhere from 3-5 minutes before it blows cold. I've taken it back to the body shop who has in turn taken it to a dealer and nothing was found.
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Alright 2009 Corolla S 1.8L. 80k miles, 5 years old.
I just decided to start doing the service myself on my gf's Corolla. Switched to Mobil 1 0w20. Did oil and filter. Also, the battery had a lot of corrosion on the positive terminal so my dad unexpectedly poured a little coke on it and wiped it down.
That was two weeks ago. The car has started to take longer and longer to start. Like the battery is going dead. Did the switch to synthetic or coke on battery terminal make any changes to starting or is it just a really big coincidence. Oil level still good.
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I got the 2013 sonata gls, 5700 kms.
I live in southern Ontario, in Canada and the weather is starting to drop here in the mornings and nights.
The mornings are not 0-3 degrees Celsius and at night a little bit colder.
I have notice that when I start my car in the morning it seems like the engine takes a little big longer to start. It takes no longer than 2 seconds to actually start, it just sounds like its struggling a bit more.
I notice once i drive the car for a bit, park and then start the car again it seems like it fires up quicker and without ease.
Is this due to the drop in weather? or something else at play here.
Also it seems like in the mornings when the car has been sitting for like 9 hours, after it starts the engine sounds louder than usual.
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2012 Golf GTI, bone stock, 18k miles. The issue is pretty straightforward. It takes longer to crank than I feel it should, perhaps 5-6 seconds, sometimes the car is cold, sometimes warm. Sometimes it cranks right up with no issue. A VCDS scan is clean. This is Atlanta weather too, so the temps are pretty mild.
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It used to be, if I remember correctly, that while turning the key on a cold start the oil pressure gauge needle would show pressure prior to the engine starting, now it takes longer to start and the needle doesn't move until after the motor has started. I had the O-ring kit replaced due to oil leakage, and I wonder if there is an issue with the system. N to watch as they deedo their cold start today...
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I have a meticulously cared for 2003 Camry. When I got it a year ago it stalled at startup about 10% of the time, and it has increased to almost 50%. The engine light is on and off, but seems to have no bearing, nor does air or engine temperature. If I keep my foot on the gas even when stopped, I can drive it. Sometimes it warms up to idle, sometimes not. It stalls usually at start and always when going slow or stopping. Sometimes it succeeds in idling, sometimes it fails, but never something in between. Either it idles right at 1000rpm, or at 0.
Mechanic ran it through the computer, drove it around, tried it a bunch of times and found nothing.
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I have a 2015 IS 350 F-Sport with just under 9K miles. Occasionally, the car takes a little longer to start with a few more cranks. I've never had to push the start button twice. Once, it really seemed to struggle to start, but it did. I've had the battery/starter/alternator checked at 2 different local auto stores, and everything checks out fine.
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When I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
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My embattled 92 civic hatchback has developed an issue that makes it take forever to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position, and then I have to wait for up to 10 to 15 minutes to hear the click-hum of the fuel pump priming (which turns off the check engine light) before I can start it. I've noticed that it's much worse on wet days, but generally starts right up if it's only been off for a few moments. I used to just give the Civic ample warning before I need to go somewhere by running out, turning the key to start, and then letting it sit there, but this is beginning to wear down the battery. I've replaced the main relay to no avail, and once the car is running it does just fine, which makes me think that the fuel pump is fine.
Full disclosure: this thing also has a bad oil problem. A diesel mechanic changed the head gasket several months ago (owing to yet another starting problem, and I'm starting to think it was the same starting problem, and that I blew the head gasket from trying to push-start the thing), and in our efforts, we seem to have messed up the valve cover gasket. There is oil in the plug wells, and there's some power loss as the engine is trying to cough up the oil. I haven't replaced it yet because it doesn't seem to be a critical issue as long as I keep feeding it more oil.
I've done some searching on the web, and the general consensus of the internet (and the internet HAS to be right, right?) is a bad ECU. When I look this up in my manual, getting to the ECU is just a matter of pulling the carpet in the passenger-side floorboard out of the way. Okay, great. Only problem: I can't find a place where I can buy a good ECU. I could probably find one at a junkyard, but there's no guarantee there. If I do manage to find one, I want to be able to return it if replacing it doesn't fix anything.
Fuel pump - checked before we changed the head gasket, came back okay
Starter - I changed it by myself before we changed the head gasket
Ignition Switch - The key is optional, but everything else electronic in the car responds properly when the switch is in the proper position.
Distributor/Rotor cap - Changed when we changed the head gasket
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I have a 2010 ford f150. Every time I fill it up with gas it wont start upon the first try just turns over. Second time it sputters and then stalls.Third time it starts then runs and stalls.Fourth time it will start fine until I fill the truck up with gas again. I caught part of a Car Talk shop on Saturday May 25 about a gas fumes the new sealed gas tanks, charcoal filters. Didn't hear all of the program.I read some articles on the internet about a possible gas tank valve. What is the problem with this ford f150 truck to make it stall out after it is filled with gas???
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2003 f150 supercrew with 166,000 on it. Daily driver. Keeps randomly blowing 10A fuse under dash that controls ABS4X4 urn signals. No routine causes. Just blows at random times. Fuses were blowing instantly upon replacing then stopped. Doesn't blow when turning switches for turn signals or when turning it to 4x4. Just does it randomly. Sometimes will go months without blowing. Tore dash apart and can't find any wiring issues there. Could be somewhere else? Is ABS4X4. Turn signals going bad?
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I have a 2002 F350 7.3 with 76,000 miles (still a baby) ... about a week or 2 ago i got in my truck and went to start it like normal, except instead of whipping over and firing right up in the snap of a finger, it kinda had a slower cranking time and took a second or 2 longer than normal. My first thought was maybe the battery's, BUT there basically brand new !!! not even a year old !!! ... so i figured maybe a starter, but i just left it as is, it still ran normal after firing.... Until this morning, I went to go start it and it cranked over 3 or 4 times real slow and would crank any more, it did this to me multiple times. Its acting like dead batteries so i put a jump pack on it, no change. I am thinking maybe a starter ....
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When I start my TReg on a cold start it takes my oil pressure gauge about 10 to 15 minutes to even move up a little bit. My engine also has a loud clatter for about 1 minute when I start on a cold start. Is this normal, could I have a faulty gauge?
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Why when I am in hot weather it takes a long time for the a/c to start cooling off the car...
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I wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
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My grandfather recently died, and left me his 1999 Ford Windstar. He's had it since it was brand new, and as of today it has 249k miles on it...
It hadn't been driven for about a year since he was sick for quite a while. I took it for a 30 mile drive to see what kind of condition it was in. Once I jump started it, the CEL was on. Things I noticed while driving on the city streets:
- Van takes longer than normal to accelerate
- Really loud - I'm wondering if something is up with the muffler
Once I hopped on the highway and hit speeds in excess of 65 MPH, the "O/D OFF" light began flashing. The van wasn't driving any differently than before - at least I didn't notice anything. After another 5 or so minutes, the CEL began flashing. Again, the van wasn't driving any differently than before.
The one thing that was prevalent at this high speed also, was how long it took to accelerate. I really had to floor it to get it to go from 60 to 70. I took it to the auto zone by my house (which was the plan all along) and pulled the following codes from it:
-P0171
-P0443
-P1401
I wasn't able to get a read on the Tranny codes since they didn't have a scanner for that. Where should I start? Here's what I know so far:
-As for the 0171 code, respectable people on this forum say it most likely is due to a Vacuum leak. Any places in particular I should look?
-The 1401 code seems to point to either a bad DPFE Sensor and/or Carbon buildup in the EGR sensor/valve.
-Don't know anything about the 0443 code.
-I didn't get any codes relating to the misfiring that took place on the highway. Not really sure what that means.
I do a big DIY when it comes to doing work on my vehicles. A good tutorial and pics/videos and I'm off to the races. I plan on doing a lot of the work myself, unless it will start to require specialty tools and the like.
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My 2003 f150 v6 occassionally leaks a little inside when running the AC for long periods of time. Its only a little bit, and Ive noticed it after several road trips with the AC on the whole time. I am aware of a service bulletin fix on this. Essentially the problem is the two drain holes are horizontal through the firewall so air blows water back in, and the fix is to fit two L shaped hoses to block the wind and allow the water to drain downward in the engine compartment. I have done this months ago and it has largely solved the problem, when the water was more of an issue. My question is, is some condensation to be expected or is something clogged up? From time to time the heater core area makes a faint rhythmic rattling that goes away eventually.
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