Ford - F150 :: 2001 Truck Difficult To Start Intermittently
Oct 3, 2015
Recently my 2001 F150 4x4 5.4 truck has been misbehaving by being difficult to start at random times. The engine will turn over with however will not fire. After some time, I am able to get it to fire. When this happens the truck start normally for the rest of the day and maybe several days. Around the same time, error codes for a variety of sensors would occur. This problem was traced to a broken PCM connection. When this problem does materialize, no error codes are generated. After some time in repair shop, a probable cause could not be found.
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
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I just got my 03 F-150 with 112k on the clock. It has the manual 5 speed tranny behind the 4.6L.
However, since I've gotten the truck, it's kind of difficult to put in first gear. If you are sitting at a light and in neutral and the light changes and you push the clutch to the floor and put it in 1st (fairly quickly - a normal reaction time), it will actually do a little grind and/or thump. However, if push the clutch to the floor and wait a couple of seconds and then shift into first, it's a bit of a "push" but it will go in without grinding.
Once in a while shifting to 3rd it feels the same way, but won't really grind.
I'm just wondering if that means the clutch is toast or is it the trans that is toast? Reason I ask is my 96 Cobra with the T-45 5 speed would grind going into 5th gear if I just normally put it in. I used to have to put it in neutral and then push the clutch in again and slowly shift to 5th for it not to grind. And it wouldn't go into 3rd if I tried to shift fast or under power. I replaced the clutch and found out the trans was actually going bad, but it had 173k on the clock.
So, I'm really paranoid that it's my darn trans in the truck instead of just the clutch. Whenever my old Camaro clutches used to be dying, they would slip more than they would ever grind going into a gear.
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I have a 2001 F-150 4.2L 2WD LS with 102k miles. At 95k miles, the clutch slave cylinder started leaking fluid. So, I had my local garage replace it. And while they were at it, put in a new clutch. That is when the trouble started.
I cannot let the clutch out like I used too. When letting out the clutch from a dead stop,the rear end now shakes, shutters, and if it is really bad, the rear end starts bouncing. To minimize the shakes, I have to keep the engine below 1000rpm until the clutch/1<sup>st</sup> gear is fully engage. It is worst when there is a load on the truck like going uphill, or a sharp turn for a dead stop. After the truck gets rolling, I don’t notice the problem when shifting gears.
I have been babying it for 7k miles and it has not improved. What is wrong? Did I get a bad clutch job?
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After truck gets warm it won't restart.
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Mechanics cannot find out why it occasionally does not start and has to be jumped off. If left not driven for a day walk out next morning try to start and it has to be jumped off. It only has 8,000 miles on it. 2013 Ford F150
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I left the keys in the ignition last night. I didn't think it was left on, but apparently it was. This morning when I tried to crank the truck, it wouldn't start. The dash lights came on, but it didn't make any sound. I tried to jump it off, and it still won't turn over. What it could be??
The truck that wouldn't start was a 97 Ford F150, the car I was trying to jump it with was a 96 Honda Civic. Someone told me that might be the problem, that the small car wouldn't give enough power to a truck...
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I have a Ford F150 Triton Super cab that once and a while it will not start after a heavy rain. When I turn the key it sounds like I am not getting a spark or gas. Besides that everything comes on normal.
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My 85 f150 5L is parked to far in into my alley.. the last time i saw my keys i moved it up to water the plants that it was tucked almost on top of.
ive been looking for the keys for 2 months.. the truck isnt being driven at all but i think my neighbors are getting mad at it being out so far.
I can get in the engine bay, and i have jumped the starter on our big trucks at work before.. but what wires do i have to join to put the ignition into the run position?
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My truck is a 1990 Ford F150. It seems like when I let it sit for a few min that the gas just drains back into the tank and there for it wont start up that fast, it takes a while to get it going but when I shut it off and start it back up its like a new truck. It starts right up!!! Any tips on what might be wrong, maybe the gas cap is letting pressure out? Im 17 and my dad knows alot about trucks but he cant tell whats wrong.
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I have a 1998 Ford F-150. It has an issue with starting sometimes. The truck won't start with a fully charged battery but when I hook it up to a charger, the truck starts normally. It was going to get the wheels aligned today and when the mechanic went to drive it off the ramp, it wouldn't start. I told him to put a charger on the battery and it started right up. Without the charger it just cranked over and wouldn't start. It doesn't do this every time I go to start it only occasionally. The mechanic had no idea what the problem was and has never heard of this kind of situation. I'm assuming it is an electrical problem but I'm not an expert with engines. The battery was fully charged at the shop and the battery is a year old.
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I've got a 01 f150 yesterday stopped running (like it ran out of gas). Has half a tank. Fuel pressure at rails good but truck will not turn over. Fuel pump and filter less than year old.
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I have a 2008 f250 with 5.4v8. The truck starts intermittently. Put key in turn if no dash lights it doesn't even crank or hear a click. If u put key in and turn and dash lights up to starts and runs. U can watch the different lights (instrument cluster) light up independently like a xmas tree. When truck doesn't start if u disconnect battery when touching power wire to battery. Post truck lights will flick on/off if u tap cables to battery and leave on. Lights flicker on/off and then stay off. (Don't know why shouldn't flicker at all) after disconnecting and reconnecting battery truck will or will not start still depends on if dash lights come on before cranking.i replaced battery, starter, alternator, all the ground cable connections and wire cleaned. I haven't replaced the power side but are clean.
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I have an 1983 F150 on a little island, so I have to be the mechanic. Yesterday the truck started then stalled and wouldn't start. I opened the hood and the battery cables, the fender mounted solenoid and the cable from the solenoid to the starter were too hot to touch. The battery was dead in about five minutes. I didn't have time to charge the battery, had to get back to the mainland. I bought a new solenoid and a new ignition switch today but where the problem might lie. I won't be able to get back to the truck until the weekend.
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1995 aero, 4.0 auto AWD. wouldn't start about a month ago and got parked. got around to working on it and it would start and run a couple seconds then just crank and crank, I tossed another edis module on it that i had with no change, tried it without the MAF plugged in, had consistent spark while cranking. fuel pump would prime just fine. after a while I was experimenting around and held the throttle WOT and got a couple coughs.
after a while of cranking and trying different stuff I had began to get a few backfires (and by this time i had the spout and the octane plug out) and I was actually trying to see if i could see backfires out the tail pipe cause i couldn't determine if they were intake or exhaust side, it finally started. it ran really rough and coughed and sputtered and backfired a few times, then after about 30 seconds it smoothed out and started idling like normal.
I took it for a drive and it ran normal, so i shut it off and reinstalled the spout and octane plug and took it for another drive and it ran better (assuming the ign advance is working, so it must not be in limp home mode)
When I first started I pulled codes 114 and 118, ACT sensor out of range and ECT voltage high (Note: when I got it started the gauge didn't show it as being very "warmed up" even though it idled about 30 minutes before I drove it about 10 miles). I am gonna let it cool for the night and see how it starts in the morning, then try pulling codes again...
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
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When the battery light on my F-150 came on (about 100,00), the dealer put on a new alternator. This has now been done 3 times in the last year, and the battery light still comes on intermittently. They have no ideas about what to do.
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The Cruise Control on my truck works intermittently. Sometimes it cuts out when I am driving and sometimes it fails to work at all (usually in the morning). Sometimes it will re engage if it cuts out and sometimes it will not re engage for hours.
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My 2012 f150 AC is blowing out of the defrost for a couple of minutes on start up. The AC will begin to blow out of the dash vents then will switch back to the defrost vents before blowing out of the dash vents for the remainder of the trip.
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I have an issue with my 2001 f350 7.3 PSD. Intermittently it will not start. It will crank really quick, but will not even try to start. I think it is not getting fuel. There are no CEL codes and I have a WTS light and the tach is moving while cranking. I hear a clicking/buzzing sound coming from under te center opf the dash. When I hear that sound it will not start. checked fuses and relays and it started before. not sure if removing the fue made whatever reset. this has happened a couple times. Now it will not reset. When I remove the number #24 fuse under the hood, the clicking stops. when i crank it, but still doesn't start. When it starts in runs perfect. Drained the batteries trying to trouble shoot, but have them charger now.
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Have 1994 F150 with 5.0L engine. Check engine light, intermittent on due to overheated O2 sensor. Replace sensor, light goes off. The sensor will last longer in cold weather but will fail with same code. Is the overheating due to an electrical problem from the ECU or ambient tempreture. Would like to sell truck but don't want to hand the buyer a dozen O2 sensors.
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