1997 F150, V6, 4.2L. Replacing the O2 sensor, driver's side before the converter. I've tried using the O2 sensor socket (I have a full set) and it keeps slipping off. Afraid I'll "round" the sensor even more. I've tried heating it up, penetrating oil and it's not budging at all.
View 8 RepliesI just got a 1994 F150 with the 5.8L motor its a 4X4 with Auto trans. I have the dual tanks set up, midship and aft-axle and both tanks leak, more aft-axle then front. I was wondering how difficult is it to remove and install these tanks and what are some tricks to solve the problems I'll run into?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 F150 SuperCrew with 180k. Has been a great truck. Last fall the check engine light came on, and I took it to Advance Auto and they said to replace the lower O2 sensor. Did that and light stays on. Ever since then, and getting worse, is when I crank truck, it idles very rough, and if it sits too long it will just "choke itself out" and quit. Recently this has happened while driving on road too. I have to shift the gearshift to N to crank it. I get power but no crank if I try it in P.
View 3 RepliesSo I was wondering where the O2 sensors are on the 04 f150s and if I could cut the rear set of cats out without throwing off those sensors?
View 13 RepliesI bought some high temp anti-seize thread compound last week and had some free time to look at the EGT sensors last night. In a warm dry garage, the sensors are pretty easy to reach and so I had a go at wrenching them loose. They are tight. And they are knuckle busters when they break loose so be prepared.
The number three sensor (third from the front of truck) is close to the frame. Very close to the frame. And the frame has some sharp points along it's edge - knife sharp. A steel file (and two blood soaked band-aids later) the sharp points were gone and the EGT sensor threads prepped.
Have 1994 F150 with 5.0L engine. Check engine light, intermittent on due to overheated O2 sensor. Replace sensor, light goes off. The sensor will last longer in cold weather but will fail with same code. Is the overheating due to an electrical problem from the ECU or ambient tempreture. Would like to sell truck but don't want to hand the buyer a dozen O2 sensors.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford f150 4.6L automatic. My check engine light had been on for awhile so I dug out my DTC code reader erased it, came back on 10-15 minutes later. I got the code P1131 sensor indicates lean which you would think is the O2 sensor a week later it won't start. Then randomly a couple days later it starts then that night it didn't. Hear is the parts that confused me. I don't believe an oxygen sensor would cause it not to start, it's cranking nice just won't turn over. And when you get the code P1131 I believe it bay 1 where the readings are off Well here's my readings.
Fuel system 1 CL-FaultCalc load 34.1%ECT 201.2 FSTFT B1 -1.6%LTFT B1 0.0 %STFT B2 -1.6%LEFT B2 0.0%ENG RPM 1101VEH SPEED 27 MPH
It looks like to me bay 1 and 2 are off? I'm not mechanically challenged, but not a mechanic either, I do most my own work on my vehicles..
I have a 2010 F150 with the 5.4 V8. How many cam shaft position sensor do I have ??? I replaced one but I swear I see one one the passenger side...
View 1 RepliesI have a 95 f150, Eddie Bauer, extended cab, 4x4, 302, 285 tires. My question is this... What happens if I remove the second cat. I am trying to get a better sound from the exhaust and have been told the second cat is making that impossible. There is no o2 sensor downstream of the second cat, so I'm thinking the computer will never know its gone. Also how well this affect power. With the bigger tires, it's kinda sluggish off the line.
View 5 RepliesThe ole 5.4l hit a snag today. I was on my way to fill her up and she started sputtering and damn near died! i filled her up and it was like nothing ever happened. Took her to AutoZone and the diagnosis was a Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
I have a connection with Bumper-to-Bumper to get the part for cheap but I'm not sure if i want to dive into either moving the bed or dropping the tank. I'd prefer to move the bed.
I have removed the 12mm bolt and disconnected the speed sensor. The problem is that the speed sensor will not come out of the transmission. Is there a pin or something else that needs to be done to remove this speed sensor?
View 3 RepliesI tried to remove the MAF in 2007 Sonata Limited, and could not figure out how. I removed a cap by lifting the tabs on the sides, but the connector with the wires was still attached. I flipped over and saw another kind of tab on the bottom and seemed to be tricky to be disengaged. I did not want to go further because I broke Toyota ignitor connector not too long ago so I know some of the connectors with plastic tabs can be delicate. I want to make sure it is more clear to me before I proceed further.
View 2 RepliesIs it possible to remove the oil pan from a 1997 F150 with a 4.2, 2WD, without removing the engine? I seem to be reading that's it is possible (but difficult) for 4wd, but it can't be done for 2WD - is that correct?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 F150 that has been making an odd noise (something new and different). It seems to be coming from the engine-ish area. It makes a hollow whooshing kind of noise, followed by a thump/thud that I can feel through the accelerator (think frighting off beat base drum living under the hood). It sounds like a very large valve of some kind closing. It does not do this all the time, and both times it has done it have been at low altitudes- might not mean anything but my truck doesn't seem to like low altitudes- it idles low there. It has done this twice now- once 2 or 3 times in a minute for about 50 miles and then it just stopped miracle!.
I added oil in the interim of that and I thought maybe that had worked- it was embarrassingly low- took 4 quarts to get it to read half way up the dipstick. I might have murdered my truck. It did it again when I was on a long trip, coming home. It only did it 4 or 5 times. My truck kindly listened to my desperate plea and hasn't made a peep since, which means I made it home but now I can't get my mechanic to have a clue. I tried that the first time and he said "hmm." That was incredibly useful. So do I need a new truck? I might be able to afford a 1998 model.
I have been told by the AC shop that my AC manifold is leaking. I have a f150 1997. When they say manifold do they mean both the suction and high pressure lines? In pictures it looks like the AC manifold includes all the lines to the compressor.
View 1 Replies99 F-150 4x4. Any tips to get these rusty things separated from their homes? I've got the torsion keys unloaded and loose and the cross member loose. They will not budge. Aside from getting a bigger hammer and abusing the cross member till something gives. I don't like using the torch on heat treated components....
View 14 Replies1997 Ford F150. 6 cyl, 4.2L, 138K miles. (Still) keep getting back the P401 code. I've checked (and re-checked) and cleaned all the ports and checked connections on the EGR valve, DPFE sensor and EVR solenoid. Everything seems to be working OK. Have replaced the EGR valve, DPFE sensor and EVR solenoid and (still) after clearing the code and driving ~30 miles, I keep getting the CEL light pop back on and P401 code popping up. Is their anything else to check ??
View 5 RepliesI left the keys in the ignition last night. I didn't think it was left on, but apparently it was. This morning when I tried to crank the truck, it wouldn't start. The dash lights came on, but it didn't make any sound. I tried to jump it off, and it still won't turn over. What it could be??
The truck that wouldn't start was a 97 Ford F150, the car I was trying to jump it with was a 96 Honda Civic. Someone told me that might be the problem, that the small car wouldn't give enough power to a truck...
I have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat with the 4.6 v8 and my engine had a piston slap so I replaced the engine with a used one and I put a new water pump on the engine. My problem is the heater does not get hot and it only gets warm when I get on the freeway and the rpms stay steady for a bit. but when i idle it just blows cool air. the heat door works cause I can turn it to cold air when I'm on the freeway and i just replaced the thermostat so I don't believe its that. It weird because the heater worked fine before I changed out the engine so i cant figure it out. the only thing i can think of is the water pump is bad out of the box. Could it be the belt or does spacing on the water pump have something to do with it. nothing is leaking.
View 7 Replies1997 Ford F150 4.2 liter V6 with Eod transmission. I have replaced the shift actuator, the brake switch, the ignition switch and tumbler, tightened all nuts and bolts on and around the steering column shifter, and had a mechanic replace the shift cable and go through the wiring from front to back. He couldn't figure out the problem.
I recently noticed while coming to a stop on a gravel road I touched the brakes and the front brakes locked up. I have anti-lock on this truck so is this normal and could this maybe be the problem with no brake lights and not coming out of park? Just for giggles I also had to come to a sudden stop in town on pavement a couple times and the tires locked up so hard I could smell rubber burning where the tires slid.
We have a 97 f150 4x4, I have pulled the transmission for repair. The rear main seal is not leaking however I have always replaced them when I pulled a tranny. This is a 5.4l and after removing the flywheel I noticed there is another cover around the crankshaft held on by 8mm bolts around the side and 2 oil pan bolts on the bottom. Does this cover come off to fully access the seal? Is there a gasket available for this cover or is silicone the standard?
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