Ford - F150 :: 1996 - When Key Turned On Wait For 2 Minutes Then Start?
Jun 2, 2014
I drive a 1996 F-150, 188,000+ miles. Sometimes when you turn the key in the ignition, nothing happens. Absolutely nothing. But if you wait about 2 minutes, the truck starts O.K. This has occurred a couple of times when I was starting out and killed the motor by not giving it enough gas. But it's also occurred when the truck has been sitting for a number of hours or even overnight. It never fails to start after about a 2 minute wait. What's going on here? I've had the truck in the garage, but they couldn't replicate the problem and didn't do anything.
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I have a 1996 Lumina 3.1. For the last few years, every now and then I would turn on the key, all electrical systems, lights, windows, radio, etc. would work but it wouldn't turn over. If I waited about 4 minutes it would start perfectly and it wouldn't happen again for up to a month. Last week it did it and after I waited and tried it again it turned over once then everything went dead. A mechanic (friend) installed a new battery and it started. He took it to his shop and installed a new computer. Everything read fine, but now when you turn on the key it will turn over fine but not start. Leave the key on and wait about 2 minutes till you hear the fuel pump start and the engine will start fine. If you stop for a few minutes it will start but if you stop for more than 5 or 10 minutes you have to wait for the fuel pump to come on again.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Impala and it seems that every now and then when I try to start the car the security feature activates and I have to wait 10 mins to try to start it again. On some occasions when the 10 mins are up and I try to start it the feature reactivates and I wait another 10 mins. This actually happened on a ferry ride and I held up the offloading of vehicles. My question is, Will a remote starter installation alleviate this issue? If not. What can I do?
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My 2014 Sonata GLS has definite air conditioner problems. It takes some time for it to get cold. I had no problems with my 2011 Elantra - I never had to turn the air conditioner to its highest level. In addition, it cooled almost immediately. However, I have to turn on the Sonata's air conditioner to full capacity and wait several minutes before I get some cool air. When it's 95 degrees out here in Florida, a few minutes can seem like a long time.
Haven't had my car checked yet.
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I have a 1994 f 150 5.8l 4x4 with 215000. Cold starting is fine runs well. After running it will not start after shut down. Wait till motor cools back down will start up and run fine ....
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I have a 1996 4.0L Sport - 2 weeks ago, stranded wifey at food store, had it towed home, and replaced the starter solenoid - it started and ran for about 4 days, and then stalled once but started back up (it was cold out)
Another day, I went out to start it, and the same thing... loud click when you turn the key to start position, seems to be coming from solenoid again...
so, I thought, ok, the parts a week old, but sometimes they do fail...
So, I bought the best one around: standard "blue" which had brass on the back to best couple to ground, etc...
Put it in, and reconnected everything - and the SAME THING... clicks every time I turn the key. (single click for each time I try to start it....
questions is - how can I check these to see if I had 2 bad ones in a row, or would there be something else wrong?
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I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2WD manual trans with 160K racked up. In the morning it does not like to start right away. I put the clutch down, key in the ignition, turn it to engage the electricity, say a prayer and turn. When it doesn't start nothing happens. No sounds. Nothing. If I hold the key fully turned and wait, sometimes much longer than 60 seconds, it starts and sounds just fine. Once it is running for some time I can turn it off and turn it back on again without hesitation. In colder weather it takes much longer to start.
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My 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
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I'm not so sure what is the problem because when the ac light flashing and I'm closing the ac switch and turn it back on the ac start to cool again but start flashing after few min.
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My 2001 7.3 in a f350 automatic has this problem. I tried to start in am, no wait to start light comes on, but the od/off on auto transmission handle is blinking on and off. Turn key off and back on, no blinking, instrument cluster lights up as normal but no wait to start light, engine turns over as normal but no start or attempt to start, engine has about 56000. replaced glow plug relay, still nothing.
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AC blows cold for about 10 minutes and then blows hot?
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My 1996 ford f150 4x4.. The problem is with the front drivshaft it does not turn even when the 4x4 is not engaged. The 4x4 works and engages and disengages properly but when it is not in 4wd the front driveshaft does not spin freely..
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96 F150 carbed 300 with a C6/208 SAS44/9" with 3.55 on 35s.
I put a transgo shift kit in the transmission before putting it in the truck, it also has a small stall. At half throttle you can manually shift 1-2-3 with no issue at all. Under full throttle when you shift to second it won't go into second until you push the shifter into third. Then it'll go to second and spin the tires when it grabs second in dirt. This is all in 4lo, I was gonna switch to 2hi and try it but it's raining and I don't feel like crawling under it to change it. The truck is a mud toy so will spend 90% of its time in 4lo.
I don't have a vacuum line currently hooked to the transmission because I have the same shiftkit (transgo) in my 77 and no vacuum line on it either and it works fine.
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Last night parked my 2004 Ford F150 after a 15 minute drive in 85 degree weather. About 15 minutes after parking I heard a loud boom and a cloud if smoke came out from the front of my truck. Lots of people on the street also saw it and said they thought it was a tire but alas, all tires are fine and oddly a look under the hood showed zero signs of anything unusual, no leaks under and I even drove it home with no perceived problems. What this could be or what to look out for?
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1997 Ford F150, 6cyl, 138K miles. The truck has a loud squeal when the wheels are turned. This occurs when it's stopped or at low speeds (can't really tell if it's happening at other speeds ?). A friend who's a mechanic, upon hearing the noise, said he thought it was either tie rods or ball joints. I replaced the tie rods (original ones) and the squeal remains. Is there any definitive way to determine if indeed the ball joints are causing this noise ? When I posted before, someone suggested I may have a bad serpentine belt pulley, but the noise seems to be coming from the front end, and not under the hood.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-150 v6 2wd. A few weeks ago, the check engine light turned on so I drove to the nearest autozone to hook up their computer and see what the error code was. The technician gave me the code (I don't remember it off the top of my head but it wasn't something imminent). Before leaving, I asked him if he could clear the light, figuring that if it didn't come back on after 50 miles, that it might have just been a fluke with one of the truck's sensors. Later that day, I realized that when I started the truck, the check engine light was no longer turning on momentarily the way that all the dashboard lights do to tell you that they're working.
I went back to a different autozone (one closer to my house) and explained the situation. They checked the computer for codes again and found none and said that the light must not be turning on because the bulb is burned out. I find this to be a striking coincidence that the bulb should happen to blow out exactly when the technician used his computer to clear the light. Is it possible that he did something with his computer that permanently disabled the check engine light? It's been a few weeks and I've since bought an inexpensive bluetooth code reader of my own, hooked it up, and found that there is still no active code. Is it possible that the code has returned or will return, but that I won't have a way to know because something he did suppressed not just the light but my car's code reporting mechanism?
For now, the truck drives fine, but I'm afraid to travel long distances when there might be a problem I don't know about.
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1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
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After replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
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i have a 96 f150 xlt 6 cyc. with auto, about 4 months ago we drove 150 miles where the engine overheated and transmission fluid started pouring out from bottom where dust cover is. when got home i filled up transmission with fluid and been good ever since with no leaks. yesterday went 70 miles and did good going down but on way back same thing, engine overheats then out comes the transmission fluid. this morning i filled it up and ran the truck and no fluid leak, what is going on with that.
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I posted earlier this month about my 1996 Ford F150 4x4 manual tranny truck. It had gotten stuck in fourth gear, and I, along with others, assumed it was the shift forks. I cracked open the top of the transmission yesterday, and what do I see? Melted plastic staring back at me. What's going on here? There was melted plastic jammed between fourth gear and the inner wall.
Is this a case of the surgeon leaving his instruments inside the patient? Could a mechanic have dropped his tuna sandwich wrapper in the transmission at some time?
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