Ford - F150 :: 1996 - Stuck In Fourth Gear - Melted Plastic In The Transmission?
Jul 21, 2015
I posted earlier this month about my 1996 Ford F150 4x4 manual tranny truck. It had gotten stuck in fourth gear, and I, along with others, assumed it was the shift forks. I cracked open the top of the transmission yesterday, and what do I see? Melted plastic staring back at me. What's going on here? There was melted plastic jammed between fourth gear and the inner wall.
Is this a case of the surgeon leaving his instruments inside the patient? Could a mechanic have dropped his tuna sandwich wrapper in the transmission at some time?
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My manual transmission got stuck in 4th because of a melted oil trough sticking between the gears. I got all the plastic out, and the dog clutches/collars are "free." But, I don't know how to put the gears back into neutral. When it's reassembled, the stick doesn't work to change the gears. How can I get the gearbox back into neutral?
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I own a 2004 Toyota Celica GTS 4-speed automatic, 24,600 original miles. The car is maybe 11 / 12 years old now. I've noticed that in extremely cold Wisconsin weather it takes a while for my car to shift into fourth gear. It kind of hangs onto third and then eventually shifts into fourth at about 40 - 45 miles per hour. Not sure if that's anything to be alarmed about or not. Drives fine and shifts smooth in warmer weather. I am the second owner. I am going to assume the original owner never changed the transmission fluid, or for that matter, never had a reason to. I purchased the car several years ago. So... is slow shifting enough to change the fluid? Or age of the fluid anything to worry about?
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96 F150 carbed 300 with a C6/208 SAS44/9" with 3.55 on 35s.
I put a transgo shift kit in the transmission before putting it in the truck, it also has a small stall. At half throttle you can manually shift 1-2-3 with no issue at all. Under full throttle when you shift to second it won't go into second until you push the shifter into third. Then it'll go to second and spin the tires when it grabs second in dirt. This is all in 4lo, I was gonna switch to 2hi and try it but it's raining and I don't feel like crawling under it to change it. The truck is a mud toy so will spend 90% of its time in 4lo.
I don't have a vacuum line currently hooked to the transmission because I have the same shiftkit (transgo) in my 77 and no vacuum line on it either and it works fine.
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1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
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1997 Ford F150 4.2 liter V6 with Eod transmission. I have replaced the shift actuator, the brake switch, the ignition switch and tumbler, tightened all nuts and bolts on and around the steering column shifter, and had a mechanic replace the shift cable and go through the wiring from front to back. He couldn't figure out the problem.
I recently noticed while coming to a stop on a gravel road I touched the brakes and the front brakes locked up. I have anti-lock on this truck so is this normal and could this maybe be the problem with no brake lights and not coming out of park? Just for giggles I also had to come to a sudden stop in town on pavement a couple times and the tires locked up so hard I could smell rubber burning where the tires slid.
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
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i have a 96 f150 xlt 6 cyc. with auto, about 4 months ago we drove 150 miles where the engine overheated and transmission fluid started pouring out from bottom where dust cover is. when got home i filled up transmission with fluid and been good ever since with no leaks. yesterday went 70 miles and did good going down but on way back same thing, engine overheats then out comes the transmission fluid. this morning i filled it up and ran the truck and no fluid leak, what is going on with that.
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1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
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01 Passat ... The small black square plastic piece that connects to the bulb of my headlight has melted and wanted to replace it. I just don't know what the part is called.
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1998 Ford f150 172984 miles automatic with 4x4 runs and drives transmission is going out will not hit 3rd gear have to drive in 2nd. Is there a fix without pulling the transmission?
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My 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
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What caused this. The attached pictures show what looks like melted plastic on the window frame to the right side rear passenger door. I noticed the damage after running errands one morning. What might have caused this? Any thing electrical inside the car or external?
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My 82 f150 4x4 302 c6 trans is acting up. My c6 is slow to shift into any gear when I shift the column shifter, after a moment it jerks into gear, also it doesn't seem D is doing anything but all the other gears seems to function manually or auto.
Fluid level looks ok, maybe a little high on the dipstick. I'm going to check the modulator and do a fluid/filter change but looking for a link to the band adjustment screw ?
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I have a 2007 F150 FX4 with 105K on it. When it goes from 2nd into 3rd, it acts like it's in neutral. There's nothing there. This is in "D" with "OD" on. If i turn OD off, it will wind up and grab 2nd again and will coast if I let off the gas. Also, if I manually shift into 2nd, it will engage 2nd and I'll have engine braking if I let off the gas.
The trans fluid was full and bright red as is should be with no burnt smell to it.
I dropped the pan and the magnet was a little fuzzy with some metal filings but there was no metal laying in the pan. I also dropped the valve body and there were no broken snap rings and the e-clip on the OD servo was intact. The valve body was also clear of anything that shouldn't be there. I'm hoping that I can replace the shift solenoid and that will solve my issues.
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I just got my 03 F-150 with 112k on the clock. It has the manual 5 speed tranny behind the 4.6L.
However, since I've gotten the truck, it's kind of difficult to put in first gear. If you are sitting at a light and in neutral and the light changes and you push the clutch to the floor and put it in 1st (fairly quickly - a normal reaction time), it will actually do a little grind and/or thump. However, if push the clutch to the floor and wait a couple of seconds and then shift into first, it's a bit of a "push" but it will go in without grinding.
Once in a while shifting to 3rd it feels the same way, but won't really grind.
I'm just wondering if that means the clutch is toast or is it the trans that is toast? Reason I ask is my 96 Cobra with the T-45 5 speed would grind going into 5th gear if I just normally put it in. I used to have to put it in neutral and then push the clutch in again and slowly shift to 5th for it not to grind. And it wouldn't go into 3rd if I tried to shift fast or under power. I replaced the clutch and found out the trans was actually going bad, but it had 173k on the clock.
So, I'm really paranoid that it's my darn trans in the truck instead of just the clutch. Whenever my old Camaro clutches used to be dying, they would slip more than they would ever grind going into a gear.
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I think my E4OD in my 95 f150 is slipping in 4th gear. Just started the last couple of days, the engine rpms stay steady but the speedometer bounces around 3 to 5 mph. Thinking rebuild of the trans....
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1996 dakota v8 automatic 4x4. tranny rebuilt 3 years ago got stuck in the mud and every since then it is stuck in first. wont shift no matter what i tried to adjust the tv cable and it didn't work at all. don't know much about dodge transmissions iv always worked on 4l60e in chevys. I don't know were to start. Where to start. iv been reading about the governor valve and shift selnoids are there any way to test any of this? first pulls strong and reverse works
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I have an extracted T18 transmission and it appears to be stuck in gear, preventing the Shift Control Housing (top part of trans.) from being removed. Would pulling the shifter remove that top plate? As it is I can get that plate lifted about an inch while I notice the in/output shafts turn, which leaves me to believe it's stuck in gear.
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My 01 excursion with a v10 6.8 liter gas engine was running rough and cutting out at 40 miles an hour climbing hills and similar situations. Had some engine codes for cylinder misfires. Changed all the spark plugs. Now it does not cut out and runs generally smoother. But something is still very wrong. At idle, you can hear it kind of shuddering.
In first and second gear it does pretty well, but when it goes to 3rd the shudder and vibration in the vehicle becomes noticeable, it can become very bad as you slowly climb to 40 miles or 50 miles an hour. If you give it gas and rev the RPMs up and go on up to 60 or 70 miles an hour, it smooths out and you would not think there was anything wrong with it.
The mechanic said we would have to wait until an engine code comes up, but I would like to understand and fix this problem if we could.
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79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
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