Ford - F150 :: 1995 - Engine Gives A Bucking Kind Of Sensation When Driving Around 40 - 45 Mph
May 12, 2011
I have the above vechicle with a straight six engine and with 100,000+ miles and have a problem that has been ongoing for sometime and am totally confused as to what to do. The pickup starts great in the morning and idles fine. No roughness during accelleration or anything while idling. I take my daughter to the bus stop and seems to be running fine. When I drop her off and drive for a short while the engine gives a bucking kind of sensation. This happens at the low end of the "Normal" range of the temperature gauge and apparent when driving around 40 - 45 mph. I think that it may slightly be running a bit rough at freeway speeds but I cannot for sure tell (Idaho roads are not the smoothest. ha). When the engine gets warmer it doesn't seem to be happening.
What could be causing this? I gave it a tune up before (OEM plugs, wires, rotor, cap) and it still happend. I made sure everything was even Motorcraft to see if that had anything to do with it! My nephew replaced the hoses at the top of the engine (I think they are return hoses) because they were bad but still having problems.
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer 2WD V6 that runs pretty well. It has approx 270,000 miles on it. My issue is whenever I stop, there seems to be a mild jerk as the truck comes to a stop. It feels like it's the wheel, but I am not sure. I was thinking it was the rotors and was going to replace them. The jerking isn't violent; instead it's almost as if the truck is bucking. It's probably not even a visible buck, but instead something you feel.
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The red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
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I have an '03 Ford F150 with the Triton motor. About 2 weeks ago it started acting like the motor was "cutting out". We changed fuel filters, got a fresh full service, got the alternator checked and did visual on the drive line and rear end ( did have a mechanic check it also). The "check engine" light does not come on while it is acting up (it does light when starting so I know the light works). At first the truck only acted up when it was good and warmed up, but now does it all the time.
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So, this past Saturday, I was driving down the road at about 40mph when all of a sudden, the engine started to buck and violently shake the car. I immediately pull off the road and settled on a side street with engine still bucking. When I made the turn, I applied a bit of throttle to get it round and there was essentially no throttle, so I kind of coasted to a stop. It was the strangest thing. I let it sit for 10, turned the key, and the starter turned the engine over only to start bucking again. Immediately turned off the car.
Figured I'd program the car back to stock mode (have APR Stg 1 flash) and give it a shot. Except this time, the starter worked and the engine didn't turn over. Tried a few more time, but got the same result. Starter worked, engine didn't. Fast forward an hour and a half and a flatbed shows up to haul me to the dealer. Called the dealer today to find out they haven't been able to replicate the issue and there's no code. In fact, they actually got it to start and it's been idling for 30 mins. When the tow guy came out, he thought it might have been an issue with the car not getting fuel - which seemed like a possibility. But, the car has a full take of 93 oct in it.
Like I said, APR Stg 1 ecu flash and that's it. Has 31K mi. DSG. Funny thing was, a day before this all happened, I brought it in for a 30K check-up and there weren't any issues.
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This problem is similar to the sensation of warped brake rotors when braking but this is not a braking issue. You feel it in the seat and its a vertical sensation versus a horizontal. Sometimes it will present minimally when releasing the brake from a dead stop. it is not a speed dependent issue. Mostly I feel it when letting off the pedal and coasting. It is not localized to the front or rear axle but seems rather to be throughout the whole truck driveline...
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I've had my mechanic work on this issue (the engine misses), and for the past few months thought the issue was resolved.... Truck is 27 years old and has only 75K actual miles. Here's what I have done.
Installed rebuilt carburetor - 2009New plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor - 2010Adjusted carburetor, timing, and choke - Feb 2012
I normally drive it every couple days, yet during last winter it set up for a couple weeks with 10% ethanol fuel. In early spring, the engine started missing while driving (about 1/3 of the time). After taking to the shop a couple times, my mechanic basically gave up. I believe it's time for a new mechanic. I may also give up and just get a newer truck, but not quite ready yet.
I suspected water in the tank, knowing that ethanol can attract moisture, so i ran the tank dry then bought 5 gallons ethanol free fuel (i live in the country where we can still find it). Engine started, ran great for a few months, and i thought i had solved the problem...until yesterday, when the engine started doing the same thing again just as it did when the problem originally started.
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This could totally be my imagination or the fact that I'm used to driving a Honda, but I somehow get the sensation while driving on the highway that I need to "hold on tighter" to the steering wheel. I feel like the car is easily swayed to the right or left, and that I can't just casually keep one hand on the steering wheel. Sometimes I feel that I have to keep the steering wheel straight.
Probably just my imagination and I have to get used to driving a 4motion VW.
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Just got this new 2012. However, I can kind of feel this sort of `pulsing` sensation coming through the seat while driving (can feel it in the driver seat and passenger seat. Almost like the wheels are out of round or something.
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I drive a 2007 Subaru Forester X (auto) with 87,000 miles. When driving between 40-50 mph, I can hear and slightly feel a droning noise/sensation. This occurs while accelerating, braking or coasting through that speed range only. I drive on newer tires, but do not experience any shake or steering vibration. Unfortunately, I can't recall if the droning occurred before the new tires were installed. The droning noise is reminiscent of deeper exhaust note.
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I'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
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So, I have a 4.9l 1995 F150 equipped with the E4OD trans. Lately, noticed over the last two or three days, the vehicle does not want to accelerate under WOT. I can hear the RPMs of the engine increasing, but the vehicle speed will remain the same; it will do this in any gear.
I checked my fluid color and level in the trans, and all was in fine. There was no discoloration or odor, nor was the fluid low at all. I'm wondering if this is a torque convertor issue, or a problem with the clutches slipping.
Mind you, my truck just hit 70k, so this isn't a high mileage vehicle. Under light load, or throttle, the vehicle will shift fine through all gears. However, if I try to accelerate heavily, or go WOT, I get nowhere. It feels like slipping.
Someone recommended that I pull codes; they are as follows:
KOEO 33--EGR did not open
Continuous 28--VAT sensor out of range
Engine Running 63--TPS too low
26--MAF or VAF out of range
32--EVP/EGR not responding during test
My plans are to check for codes again, fluid and filter change, and then see what is going on. Would an 8 hour road-trip at close to 80mph have caused this, because after getting back I noticed this problem.
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My 95 f150 stalls in reverse. It goes fine forward and idles fine in reverse but if I give it quite a bit of gas it starts stalling. We've put a new mlps and that didn't fix it. Then they thought it was the convertor so I got the trans rebuilt and still no change. I'm about to pull my hair out over this deal. I don't even have enough power to back up a trailer or back up a hill.
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My f150 looses power and sputters when it warms up. Let it cool off and it runs great until it warms up again. Check engine light comes on every now and then but not every time.
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Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
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How often should my A/C clutch be cycling when the compressor is being used. (i.e defrost, mix, a/c and max a/c). My clutch never cycles, it starts spinning when I turn something on and it does not shut off until I shut off the a/c. The truck is a 95 F-150 4.9L 5 speed...
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I think my E4OD in my 95 f150 is slipping in 4th gear. Just started the last couple of days, the engine rpms stay steady but the speedometer bounces around 3 to 5 mph. Thinking rebuild of the trans....
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How do you replace the rear axle seal in a 1995 F150?
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After replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
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I have a 1995 F150 with the 4.9L and it has 73000 miles on it. One morning recently (it was about 35 degrees outside) I went to start my truck to let it warm up. When I let off of the clutch it stayed on the floor. I shut it off and drove my car to work instead. I asked around at work and one guy mentioned that it was probably my clutch master cylinder...so that day we replaced it, and bled it until it felt like knew. Since then, we have had to bleed it three more times, because the pedal keeps losing its pressure making it harder to shift. I have inspected around the clutch line and the bellhousing for signs of needing to replace my slave cylinder, but everything looks fine.
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I recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
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