Ford - F150 :: 1992 - Gas Flooded Engine / Hard To Start
Sep 12, 2013
Subject : Vehicle 1992 Ford Truck F-150 300cu. inch
Problem : Electrical
Description : Engine would stop running and as long the key switch was in the on position the electrical fuel pump would keep running and the end result would be a gas flooded engine. There was no way to predict when or where this occurrence would happen. It may be at a busy intersection or immediately after start up in the early morning. It may do this two or three times a week and then go a month without doing this, just about the time I thought everything was alright it would start up again.
I used just about every mechanic I could think of to diagnosis the problem. The fuel pressure switches were changed, map sensor, computer board, new distributor coil and module.A new alternator was also put on the truck to no avail.This truck was taken to a ford dealer garage. In my mind this would the the "Mayo clinical" for a sick Ford vehicle. The truck stayed there for about two weeks and left with the same problem it had arrived with.
Not long afterwards it came into my mind to install a new Ignition coil . That fixed the problem ! The truck ran good for about three months and then started the same thing again. I knew I was on top of the problem. I then put an old used Ignition coil on and it lasted about two weeks. Again resulting in the same problem. I then bought an expensive coil made in the USA "Blue Streak Brand". That has been about 5 years ago. The truck has never caused me any problems since.
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Four days ago, shortly after a hurricane. I tried starting my car and it wouldn't start. The lights, radio, and AC would turn on but the engine wouldn't make a sound. I left the car at my father's for four days without looking at it. I open the trunk to check the battery, and the well with the battery and spare tire is filled with water. The battery was almost completely submerged except for the top inch of the battery where the cables are connected. There is a metal connector between two cables that is completely rusted from the water. My question is, what do I need to do/get in order to get my car running again.
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I'm working on a 1992 ranger with the 2.3l. Hard start almost every time, sometimes have to hold throttle open sometimes not. Won't start at all this morning. When it does finally start it takes a while for it to start firing on the intake side plugs. Haven't had time to check fuel pressure yet but can hear pump cycle when key is switched on.
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My 2006 F150 with 77k seized up on friday. Sounds like a bad injector flooded the engine, caused hydrolock, and then bent a rod. I called the dealership today and they said the only fix is a new engine. I have 3 payments still left and now the dealership is telling me I gotta buy a new engine.
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My 92 f150 has been running rough at around 30 to 40 mph and around 60 and 70. It has a 5.9 v8. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, dis cap, and fuel filter without it solving this problem at all. Someone said this could be my transmission or throttle body.
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I have a 92 ford f150 that ran great up until I was driving the other day and my trucks engine just shut off, like i turned the key off. It wouldn't restart. Towed it home, let it sit, and tried again..cranks fine, still wont start. replaced the coil.. Cranked it for about 5 min off and on and it barely started.. Let it run for about 5 min and shut it off, wouldn't restart. Replaced the icm....and again, cranked until it barely started, then it wouldn't restart. Today I replaced the ignition switch, and the cap n rotor. Now It'll crank for days..but still not starting. I have 40 lbs fuel pressure at the rail, plugs, wires ,all new. new fuel pumps also....
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So I got four new tires on my 92 f150. A day after driving it around. My hub starts going bad. That same day. I notice three wheels studs are broken. So I'm wondering if not tightening or over tightening cussed this. It was great before I took in for new tires. Then a day later my hub goes out. I put 60 miles on the new tires.
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1992 f150 4.9L, bought it a couple of months ago knowing the ac wasn't working PO had it converted to 134, said it worked great until they put on the bodylift. Compressor clutch is working, I'm sure I have some blend door issues but I've bypassed the heater for now.
AC on max, outside temp 85*, engine off high/low at 100psi, engine at idle low 55psi high 125psi, center vent reads 93*. When engine at apox. 1800-2000 rpm, low 35, high 180, center vent reads 85*.
My guess is the compressor is worn out. Is there another way to test? If I do replace what else do I need to replace? I'm hoping there's something else I can do/check before replacing the compressor.
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Been a common problem for years and recently got one in the shop for the concern with the EGR port plugging up and then dumping all the egr into the one cylinder that is not plugged causing a misfire off idle. Many know of this concern but I have yet to see a good example of it. I show you some easy diagnosis before you pull the upper plenum to inspect the ports.
This video is hosted at YouTube . If the video does not play, wait a minute or try again later.
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My 92 F-150 my heater blower motor doesn't put out enough air like my 2003 Lightning blower motor does.... So I figured after all these years that I would put a new heater blower motor in, well it's the same hear output and there's no debris in the heating ducts and the cable lever is working fine to close the blend door, so I guess maybe it's normal for these 92-96 F-150 trucks to have mediocre heating output ;-( Is there a bigger motor I could put in to get more heat..... The resistor is fine to, it works on all speeds.....
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Situation is I have a 92 F150 2WD donor truck. 5.8l will be going into my 80 F150 4X4. E4OD transmission is long gone, but I do have a 4R70W from a 96 Explorer. Bolting it together is no problem, but there are differences in the transmission controls. E4OD uses a coast clutch, 4R70W does not. EPC, shift solenoids and TCC are compatible. I do not want to use a 5.0l PCM or add external controllers like the Baumannator.
Question is, can I control the 4R70W with the PCM that comes with the 5.8l?
I'm thinking I can ignore the coast clutch output, maybe tie it to +12 through a resistor if that makes the PCM happy. Baumann's controller appears to work with E4OD's as well as 4R70w's doing exactly this. Baumannator TCS Electronic Transmission Wiring Details....
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1992 Ford 150 4wd ... Starting sequence turns over very slowly when ignition is activated. Starter, Battery, Plugs have been tested. Spark has been checked and is active at ignition sequence. Could this be an amperage draw when ignition is activated due to a short in ignition circuit?
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I have a 92 f150 w 302 . My front tank leaks out of the gas cap and builds up pressure. Even though I have never put fuel in it (owned it 7 mos). I siphon fuel out of it weekly. If I switch from rear to front. The truck stalls out.
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Yesterday evening I drove through a flooded area of the road, probably about 1.5 feet deep. I did not realize it was quite that deep. The water came through the floor, and probably soaked my ECU.
The engine died, but will idle very rough. I doubt I got water in the cylinders, not much at least, because the engine turned over no problem. I also have an air filter that would be difficult to get too much water into from the way it is situated.
It is putting out white smoke that smells like gas (a lot initially, now not as much), and the engine is smoking a little as well...white, gas odor...I think it is coming out around the exhaust manifold.4
It is running very rough, sounds like from 2 cylinders, and after letting it idle in the hopes of drying everything out, I noticed that the fuel gauge is at empty...it was at 3/4 earlier.
What should I start by doing?
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I have a need for a 12-volt signal to indicate the engine is in start or run mode. I would like to pull this from the engine compartment but I'm not sure what would be the best or easiest way to do this. The 12-volt signal is not used to power anything so it will draw very little current. I have a 94 F150.
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Car: 1992 GMC Sonoma 2.8L Manual,
Miles: ONLY 197,000 miles...
Symptom: Sometimes won't start (not even turn over) when engine is warm. It doesn't die or anything it just won't start if i've been driving for more than an hour and I say, stop to get gas or something. It doesn't make an sound, not even a click. This has only happened to me about 3 or 4 times in the last 6 months.
Fixes: I have not had a mechanic take a look at this yet. They usually complain about other things when I bring it in. Little things like "your brakes are almost gone" (big deal, I don't need breaks because it is a stick shift) or "your tires are showing their metal wire" (big deal, I've had a front tire blow out before at 70 mph... on this same truck come to think of it).
Current workaround : The following three things work to get it started every time:
1. A jump starts it right up
2. Push start starts up real easy (I've done it by my self on flat pavement
3. Wait for an hour or two (not always an option)
Feeble attempt to diagnose: My feeling is that the starter motor is beginning to go but are there other things that can cause this before I pour money into fixing the starter?
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'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Corolla that will not start in the summers when the engine gets hot This is the 3rd summer it has happened as I attempt to run errands on the weekend and make several stops. After the 2nd or 3rd location, the car will not start. I must wait 30-45 min. for the car to cool down. I have called tow trucks before and by the time they get to me they are able to start the car. They always check the battery and tell me it is fine. I even bought a new battery just to make sure the first summer it happened. Obviously something is heating up, but what?
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Engine will turn over but not start. it is getting spark and gas I checked coil, replaced plugs and distrib. I checked timing and firing order. Since there is spark and gas shouldn't I at least get a backfire?
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I have a 92 Deville. I drove a pretty good distance today and on the way home stopped at the store and left the car on in the parking lot. I got in and the engine died as I tried to pull out of the lot. When I try to start the car all the lights come on but nothing happens, no clicks or anything. Lights don't even go dim. Could this be the alternator? I know that the starter suddenly dying won't cut off the engine like that. Everything seemed fine before idk what gave out?
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1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
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