Ford - F150 :: 1990 - Brake Line Is Rubbing Against The Tire
Nov 16, 2014
I have a 1990 F150 4x4 and I'm having a bit of an issue with the rubber brake line. every time my friend take it out he says the brake line is rubbing against the tire. is this possible and if so how can I fix it?
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I noticed yesterday that my tire on the driver's side has rubbed a flat spot on the rubber brake hose. I bent the metal tubing so that it doesn't rub any more, but should this be of great concern? Obviously I'd hate for it to rupture, but it looks as though it's not too bad.
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I have 2007 F-150. I left for Iraq for two weeks and one of my kids borrowed my truck. When I got back, I drove the truck and have noise like the tire is rubbing something. I can't find anything hitting the tire. When you turn left, it makes the noise, when you turn right, it doesn't. If you drive straight and hit a bump it sounds like it rubs loader as you bounce. I had a mechanic look at it and he says that he couldn't see anything. I've had the front end aligned and it still makes the noise. I'm at a loss for an answer. The truck handles fine it is just very annoying and I want it stopped!
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Im working on my buddies 2005 F150 FX4. In the midst of buttoning everything up and calling it a day I happen to see fluid dripping. The OEM steel brake line had been rubbing on the steering shaft and while doing the brakes, must of busted through all of the way.
I have been to Advance and Napa at least 4 times trying to match stuff up. Nothing works from either of them.
Called Ford and talked to a parts guy who lacked general automotive knowledge and finally had to pull up there diagram to show him the correct part. He told me that part is discontinued and cannot be ordered.
It is #2264 in this diagram.
2005 Ford F-150 Front Brake Hydraulic Hose | FordParts.com
I have the factory fittings and everything to make a new line. I cannot find tube that is 5.20mm or .20". Everything I find in a roll is either 3/16 or 6mm.
The fitting is a 12mmx1.00 on the ABS brain. The caliper hose appears to be a 3/8x24. A 10mmx1.00 which is standard metric 3/16 tube nut is to big for the OEM caliper hose. A standard 3/16 flare wont seat on the caliper hose.
So it seems like what Ford did here was.... a 12mmx1.00 on a 5.20mm tube to a 3/8x24 to a caliper hose that wont seat with out 5.20mm tube.
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My center brake light went out a month ago. Thought it was the bulb so replaced that, still didn't work. Checked the fuse and its not broken so my guess was electrical?
Hasn't come on once that I know of but I was randomly walking behind my truck and the light was on. Truck was off lights were off and key wasn't in the ignition.
Went and turned my truck on and turned the lights on and the cbl stayed on. When I switched my lights off it went out and stayed out.
Now I'm definitely thinking wiring but not sure where to start fixing?
Oh and it's a 1990 F150 XLT
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I have a '90 F150 and both the yellow ABS light and the red BRAKE light are on.
It was fine until my buddy did a little brake work for me, including replacing a couple brake lines and a parking brake cable. He bled the system at the lines going into the front calipers because the bleeder valves on the calipers where corroded and frozen. I then replaced the calipers and bled the system properly. Three times. I don't think the problem is from the brake work.
The brakes still work, by the way. The pedal just feels a bit spongy and I think the brakes don't work as well as they could.
If the truck is not running, I can pump the brakes a few times, and it will make a sound like it's sucking air a few times. Then the sound stops and the pedal firms up.
If the truck IS running, it keeps making the sucking air sound no matter how many times I pump it, and the pedal feel stays the same. I think it might be a bad brake booster.
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I have a '90 F150 without A/C. For some reason the healing system is stuck on defrost. No matter where I turn the selector switch ( floor, vent, etc) air only comes out the defrost. If I turn it to "off" it will turn off. What is wrong?
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1990 F150 2wd, E40AOD tranny. Will not shift past 2nd. Reverse works. Does not have compression braking. Started when pulling a empty trailer up a hill on the interstate.
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I got a 1990 ford ranger 4.0l and is been leaking fuel from where the regulator conects to the fuel line the regulator is new. I cant find a new fuel line.
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Went to start "Larry", my 1990 Ford F150, the engine cranked but did not start. I switched to the other fuel tank and it started right up. The tank I normally use is the rear one and the pump had been getting noisier while it was running so I knew it would be soon to fail and it made no sounds when I checked it later to see if it would click and whir. I pulled the tank and installed a new pump. To test it I turned the key and heard the pump whir and stop. I turned the key to start and it started and died a couple ti mes. Front tank switched on and the truck started. While running I switched to rear tank and it died. So I have the pump in and it sounds like it runs up to pressure but the fuel is not moving.
Thought maybe I had fuel lines crossed but my manual seems to indicate they are two different sizes so that left me scratching my head... I have years of experience doing all my own wrenching but this is my first in-tank pump replacement. I have assisted a friend on a couple but never really wanted to pull a fuel tank and in my case this job required I remove the tow hitch set up as well. The hand pump for $9 at Harbor Freight was worth every cent as it made moving fuel to front tank a snap. So what the heck is happening? I don't see how a pump could be installed wrong, it is getting power on initial key turn...I should add the only time it did start I presume was because of fuel in the line that the front tank had supplied on previous start ups...
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So changing the oil in my truck the other day, I noticed the exhaust clamp at the union between my down pipe and first section of my exhaust has been rubbing the trans cooler line and there's a Nick in the granny pan. Lookin at the rubber grommet on the hanger, its stretched tight and looks like the exhaust has shifted over. What could have done this or possible fixes?right by now it's got a gob of high temp silicone acting as a stand off. Don't wanna put the new line in until I have the situation remedied.
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I picked up a 90 f150 with the 302. it wont idle without a little throttle, so after a quick look under the hood i noticed alot of broken torn and missing vacuum lines. Where I can get some sort of diagram for routing?
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My truck is a 1990 Ford F150. It seems like when I let it sit for a few min that the gas just drains back into the tank and there for it wont start up that fast, it takes a while to get it going but when I shut it off and start it back up its like a new truck. It starts right up!!! Any tips on what might be wrong, maybe the gas cap is letting pressure out? Im 17 and my dad knows alot about trucks but he cant tell whats wrong.
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I have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
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I recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
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I have 2003 F150 SuperCrew 5.4L XLT. For past month or so, have been hearing metal rubbing sound and had shakes in braking - as well as a "grabbing and pulling" sound near brake pedal - very aggravating to say the least. Weird thing is the grabbing and pulling sound only happens under 10 miles an hour or coming to a complete stop. (The grabbing sort of sounds like the sound the ABS makes when hit really hard)
Yesterday I had brakes and rotors replaced - mechanic said front rotors were beyond turning - very bad. 135,000 miles on truck. Felt more comfortable until I pulled out of shop and when I applied brakes, had the same grabbing/grinding sound, but no pulling. Went back to mechanic and had him ride with me to hear sound, and he is stumped.
Knew it was safe(r) to drive since new pads/rotors installed, but when I got up to 55mph and barely touched the brakes, the steering wheel began to shake violently - but no sound/grabbing from brake pedal area like I get when I am 10mph or under. Really at a loss right now.. What's going on?
Truck is a 2WD, also hear some thump thump thump sounds from front left tire, which are only one year old, but tire man said that was from suspension arm or something - nothing to worry about he says.
Some people have said "bearing" or "hub" but when brakes were replaced, the bearings were repacked...is this the same thing? Is the current problem safe to drive with? I do not take vehicle out of the county - just to work and back and hunting on weekends.
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My awesome 1990 Toyota Pickup (6 cyl., supercab), fondly named Ol' Rusty, has a measly 245,000 miles on it and still running strong. The one problem is that when it is very cold out such as this morning (-10F), I get a terrible noise coming from under the hood just in front of the steering column. It sounds like a belt rubbing, but I can't find it. It happens when I start going faster than 20 mph and goes away once the engine is completely warm. When it's happening, the speedometer jumps a bit. Interestingly, if I warm the truck up for 10 minutes or more so that the engine is completely warm, it still happens when I first drive the truck. Is this something I need to worry about or can I continue to ignore it like I have been for the last 3 years?
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I recently replaced my pads and rotors. The driver side was no problem, but on the passenger side, when I was finished, the caliper was rubbing up against the rim of the tire. I took both tires off to compare the differences, I noticed that my passenger side caliper is not going down as deep on the pads as the driver side. The caliper on the passenger side depressed with no problems and had no problems fitting over the pads. Whats really confusing is that all of my bolt holes line up.
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Here' the low down. I have a 90 4runner v6 4wd. It is intermittently making a loud rubbing noise in the front right of the truck. It starts randomly and sometimes stops on its own or will start when I hit a bump,it will stop when shifted into 4wd, or when I brake or turn hard to the right. but happens only a portion of the time. took it to mech, he removed front drive shaft and said prob went away, it seemed the vacuum pump or the solenoid that activates shifting out of 4wd is defective. So he manually switched off the 4wd replaced the front shaft and all good! but on my way home the noise began again. super frustrated, 3rd mechanic in a week.
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I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
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So I just completed my hydroboost install and fixed exhaust manifolds. After this install the below problem started.
ISSUE: While going slow and straight no problems. Slightest bit of turning effort left or right makes a sound like a tire rubbing on leaf springs. I can also feel the vibration. It happens in drive while moving or in neutral while moving. Happens wither hubs in auto or locked. Happens in 2wd or 4wd. It's not the steering pump cause it wines a tad now when brakes applied and I turn steering wheel. So I know what that sounds like. Expected that.
Jacked it up and checked for any movement in steering or ball joints and found nothing.
X does not make the sound above 15 mph. It's annoying....sounds and feels exactly like tire lugs hitting the leaf springs but they are not.
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