Ford - F150 :: 1986 - Blinker Works Fine But Brake Light Won't?
Aug 14, 2014
I got a new truck bed and decided it was time to finally fix my rear lights. Both blinkers work but only one brake light. It has really got me stumped. Also the rear running lights don't work and never have. When using a multi meter I get continuity between the running light positive and the common negative but only when the rear light harness is plugged in which means the short is somewhere on the way back or under the dash? Any tips about tracking this stuff down.
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86 f150 4x4
brake pedel goes straight to the floor but if u give it short pumps of the pedel it grabs but barley....master cylinder or the booster?
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Okay, my 1986 f150 with a 351w (non-feedback carbed) Has no lights on the cluster, and none of the gauges work (haven't tested the speedo yet, truck is not registered yet).
I also have a minor issue with the turn signals... Fronts work, no rears. The left turn indicator light on the dash does not come on but the right turn one does. All my "primary lights" (markers, tail, headlights) work fine. I have not yet tested the brake lights.
Fuses all look good, truck did have some roof leaks. I've done some research, does this sound like the dreaded voltage regulator issue for the gauges?
My assumption for the left turn indicator light is that there is a replaceable bulb in the dash (probably blown), is that right? Rear signals might be wiring (PO installed his own trailer wiring) or bulbs? haven't gotten that far into it yet...
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I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
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I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
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My left side rear blinker/ brake light is not working. The running/taillight side/filment of the bulb works, but the brake/blinker side/filament does nothing ! Just bought the truck used and it's my only issue, waiting on a owners manual, but I think each bulb is fused separate, and since half the bulb works, can I rule out the fuse and start chasing wires ??
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1986 F150 3spd Auto 300 v6. My truck will not shift out of 1st in Drive, to shift into second I have to column shift to 2nd. 20mph top speed and idk what to do to fix it. I would like to put a 5 spd manual in it cause I would like to drive over 50mph.
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What to do next. Engine is running on 4 cylinders, #1, 4, 5, 8. Had a mice nest on top of injector #2. Removed mice nest. The mice had chewed through wire for #2 injector and caused bear lead rubbing on the block. One lead rubbed through. Repaired, splised in a wire. Also changed rotor, rotor cap, all sparkplug leads and plugs.
Troubleshooting.
Compression on all 8 cylinders measured to be above 160 psi.
There is spark to all 8 cylinders, including the other 4 cylinders, 2, 3, 6, 7 that is nor developing power.
Fuel rail pressure is 35 psi on idle and spikes to 43 when reving the engine.
The fuel injector resistance all all measured injectors are the same (about 14.8 Ohm). Measured injector # 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8. Injector # 3 and 4 is hidden and require too much disassembly. Visual inspection deems wire for #3 and 4 injector to be ok on top of block.
Electric impulse (tested while engine was running) to injector # 1, 5 and 8 are ok, used test lamp to see that there are electric impulse to the injectors. Injector #2, 6 and 7 does not have any electric impulse. Unable to check electric impulse to # 3 and 4. However cylinder #4 develops power. Used moving the sparkplug wire for cylinder #4 to verify that is is developing power.
What would my next step be? Where should i look next?
1. Where is the control module and is it likely to fire to only 4 cylinders
2. Could it be an wire in the pickup element, under the distributor. All wires seem intact.
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I have an 86 F150 that is idling rough. It used to cut out on me until I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I have read in other posts that the problem for my rough idle could be leaking injectors. When I replaced the regulator I found a bad injector. My question is that if I check my fuel pressure, with the new regulator, would the only way I would lose pressure be that my injectors are leaking?
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My engine is running rich, flooding? My truck is a 1986 F-150 302 EFI. The engine idles rough, black smoke and soot comes out the exhaust pipes, and black soot on spark plugs. Symptoms seem to disappear if I throttle the engine and hold it, but as soon as I release the throttle the symptoms reappear and in most case causes the engine to die. These symptoms have just started a week ago. What the problem is.
Fuel injectors are cleaned and rebuilt. New plugs and wires. All new fuel pumps and filters. New air filters. New fuel pressure regulator. New dual function reservoir. New 3-piece timing set. New O2 sensor. New EGR Valve and sensor. New idle air control valve. New distributor, cap, and rotor. New ignition coil. New high volume oil pump. New alternator. New pcv valve. New knock sensor and air charge temp. sensor.
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red dash light comes on after 1 km, most times. dealer says abs module but no abs light or codes
brakes are fine
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Was going to leave the other morning and put it into reverse and nothing happened. Tried every other gear and works fine. Reverse is the only thing giving me problems right now. Tried doing some research on my own, because I can't afford a tranny rebuild. I was hoping it was either the solenoid or low/reverse band. I don't know about the band, because it works fine in low2 and low1....
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We have a 1999 f-150 just turned 200,000 miles. Two years ago replaced battery and alternator. Problem now sometimes starts fine, other times nothing. Can't jump it. Took battery out and had it tested and it is fine. Cleaned connectors. May start after thirty minutes, an hour, a day. Then runs fine for a few weeks or months, then problem returns. Have taken to two shops, but mechanics said couldn't find anything wrong bc of course it started fine at their shops! When wont start, Lights are on, but when try to crank, they go out and you hear nothing.
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2002 f150 7700 with 5.4 triton and 4r100 tranny started chugging under acceleration and now stalls when put in D, 2 or 1. park and neutral are fine and reverse works perfectly.
Now when I put it in drive it chugs and stalls immediately... 1/10 times it will keep running but chug violently like its running out of gas. will get worse and stall if you press the gas. i can light the tires up for a block in reverse however.
Changed coils 1 2 and 3, IAC, bank 1 knock sensor, camshaft position sensor
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I have a 78 f100 2wd, 300 inline 6 and I've put 2 c6 transmissions in it. The transmission shakes real bad in reverse. When you put it in drive and try to take off it wants to quit pulling but when you put it in first gear and shift up to 2nd it works perfect. My plan was to just junk the C6 and switch to a manual trans but I don't know what trans I would swap it with.
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I just picked up an 05 6.0 Limited and love it, but I can't figure out the overhead temperature gauge. It shows -40 degrees no matter what, but if I hit the outside temp button on the climate control, it shows the (mostly) correct temp. I verified that the temp sensor in front of the radiator is still there and hooked up, and it seems to me that Ford wouldn't go to the expense of using separate sensors for each readout, so I'm guessing that the problem is in the overhead unit itself. All of the other functions (compass, mileage, range) work just fine. I've seen several threads about the overhead dying completely as chips rattle loose. Is it also common for just specific functions to go out as things start to shake apart?
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Well, got a 97 f150 4x4, and I have the abs/brake light on, and a really loud noise that sounds suspiciously like a bad bearing. So I go to my mechanic, who said it was the front passenger bearing going bad, and replaced it. Got the truck back, and its still noisy, abs light still on. The noise gets way quieter when I turn hard right. What the cause is? Or what I could check?
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My center brake light went out a month ago. Thought it was the bulb so replaced that, still didn't work. Checked the fuse and its not broken so my guess was electrical?
Hasn't come on once that I know of but I was randomly walking behind my truck and the light was on. Truck was off lights were off and key wasn't in the ignition.
Went and turned my truck on and turned the lights on and the cbl stayed on. When I switched my lights off it went out and stayed out.
Now I'm definitely thinking wiring but not sure where to start fixing?
Oh and it's a 1990 F150 XLT
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My daughter has a 2003 Elantra. The left tail light works but the brake light is out. I opened the trunk and removed the two screws for the cover and found the wire going through a rubber plug. Upon removing the plug, more wires and no bulb.
How do I get to the bulb? There appear to be three screws and bolts, one on each corner, holing the tail light in place. On the fourth corner is just a rubber-looking plug. Do I have to take the assembly out to change bulbs or am I missing something?
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Recently purchased a 2001.5 Passat, and of course got the mod itch... started with an Neuspeed ECU flash & DV, along with K&N... and now I'm in the process of suspension & exhaust... Unfortunately the past week, I was told that I had a tail light out.... Upper Rear Passenger Side Parking/Brake Light.... So I figure, hit up the parts store, grab a new bulb, and I'll be set...
Well, come to find out that it's not the bulb....
The light works when I brake, so 1/2 of the bulb is good... but the parking lights won't come on that side, but on the driver side everything is good..... even with the new bulbs..(replaced both on that side[passenger] just to be sure.)
So, just out of curiosity, I took one of the old bulbs that I thought was shot, and put it in the drivers side, and what do you know... it worked flawlessly on that side...
So, I'm led to believe I have a short... or a wiring problem somewhere... but I can't see how this could have just happened without really messing with anything... I mean, I disabled the DRL's.... but I even undid that(small piece of tape covering the B prong)... just to make sure..
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Why the parking brake light in my dash stays on, 2004 F150. Fluid in master cylinder is full, has no signs of leaks anywhere.
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