Ford - F150 :: 1984 - Brakes Are Slowing And Steadily Engaging Without Depressing
Jul 28, 2011
I have a 1984 Ford F150, has about 110,000 miles on it, been a outstanding vehicle. Recently, after I drive if for about 15 minutes, the vehicle feels like it's dragging something, like the brakes are slowing and steadily engaging without depressing them. And, along with this, a chemical odor is present. And if it is the master cylinder, does it make sense to repair considering the age of the vehicle and worth?
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1984 Ford F-150. Yesterday, began to shutter like a screen door in a hurricane at 35 MPH. I hit the brakes, it pulled hard left. Figured some catastrophic failure of my brake system. Pulled over. Had it towed to mechanic. Mechanic says both front discs have to be replaced (calipers, pads, brake lines). Seem reasonable? Something about sticking calipers and warped discs, etc..
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I have a 1984 Ford F-150 with an I6 engine and a motorcraft carburetor. The truck absolutely will not idle. So I got to looking at the carburetor, and found this red hose going from the carb to a metal pipe, the pipe was just dangling there not connected to anything, and the end it rusted off. I'm pretty sure I know where the other end is supposed to go to, I just don't know how to get there as obviously I am missing some parts and I can't find them so they must have been lost on the road somewhere.
Here's how it looks:
The end of the pipe:
Where it is supposed to end (I think)???
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My '84 F150 4X4 inline 6 Died last night while driving. just conked out and died right there on the spot. no sputter... no gasping... just instant death...
after some investigation i found i wasn't getting spark anywhere. not at the plugs, not at coil. I have replaced the ignition module to no avail. still no spark I am going to swap in a the coil tonight. sure do hope this works.
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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I have a 2005 Ford F150. The engine sometimes quits when I slow down to stop for a stop sign or slow down to make a turn. I shift into neutral and it starts up and I am on my way again. This is an intermittent problem. Of course, it has never done this for a mechanic. It will happen 6 or 7 times in one day, and then won't fail for 2 or 3 days. The Ford dealership has replaced the air flow sensor. Did not work. They now think it is the throttle body that should be replaced. I am reluctant to replace this as they are not getting any codes from the computer telling them it is failing. They are not getting any codes related to this issue at all.
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1984 f150 with a new master cylinder, new brake booster, and new fluid. I did use dot 4 fluid (as opposed to dot 3) and bled out the system. This was about 9-10 months ago.
Just recently I noticed my brake pedal was going further down before I stopped; but I stopped. Since I switch between my car and truck a lot I thought this may have just been my imagination. What finally clued me in was when I couldn't stop as easily that something was obviously wrong.
Checked the master cylinder and the front reservoir was obviously empty. I couldn't find an obvious leak so took it to a shop. The added more fluid, bled the brakes and said its fine. They couldn't find a leak either.
Sooooo, any thoughts as to where my front brake fluid went? I'm assuming they took the wheels off and looked at the calipers too but I'm not sure I'll find out when I go pick it up in an hour. Could the dot 4 fluid have something to do with it? The brake lines, mast cyl, booster, proportioning valve and calipers are all bone dry. No obvious fluid leaks. Soooo now what.
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I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
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I recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
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Have an 02 Explorer XLT that recently had its' ABS light intermittently come on. As well when the ABS light is off the brakes will pulsate when slowing.
Took to dealer they noted the following:
Rear sensor out .... ABS Control unit is out. Was shorted out due to Hydraulic Control Unit going out. Hydraulic control unit is obsolete at Ford.
Questions:
With all of this going on, how was I able to brake although not adequately?
Does the HCU control normal breaking too (without ABS)?
Immediately he says he would not put the money into it and wants to get me to someone to trade it in on another vehicle? While I understand the logic somewhat I do not being approached like this.
Can I get a better quote going to a mom and pop mechanic and getting second hand parts?
Is there a possibility to bypass/disconnect the ABS system and would it be recommended?
How to deal with? Vehicle is in great shape aside from mechanical issues creeping up and don't want to lay out the dough for a new vehicle.
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2005 F-250 6.0 4x4. After about 50,000 miles on my original brakes, they started to make a squealing noise when applying moderate brake pressure and slowing down around 30mph-0mph. It only happens after Ive driven the truck about 30 mins. It must be warmed up. After 100,000 I decided to change the brakes.....they had plenty of life left on them, but I changed them anyway. I put on new rotors and pads and calipers in the front because one was hanging.
After about 10,000 miles, the exact same squeal has returned. With the windows down, its loud enough to physically hurt your ears if you are next to a car and the sound can bounce back into the cab. It sounds terrible. I thought it was the front brakes, so I took them apart this weekend to put in some Disc Brake Quiet. They pads look great, plenty left, the rotors look great, no grooves. Everything is tight. I relubed pins and brackets and clips. Today...same squeal still. I am at a complete loss here. It is some sort of harmonic squeal and the only thing I can figure is that the rears are the culprit. I have a drivers rear caliper that will hang and stick if you drive it really hard, so I am considering replacing the rear calipers too and do the disc brake quiet treatment there as well. Im not confident this will solve the problem.
Like I said, its so loud you can't drive with the windows down. Its a piercing squeal. Is there anything else that I can check? I can't imagine others don't do this. Its so loud and pronounced that it must be some sort of design flaw or something.
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I've noticed an intermittent clunk which occurs when engaging the hydraulics brakes during reverse maneuvers. It happens with anything from very light to very heavy brake force and typically will happen before driving very far (backing out of driveway, out of parking spot, etc) but does not happen after driving (backing INTO driveway or parking spot). This has been occurring for a while now with no other symptoms (other than some shudder during take off which I attribute to a sloppy transmission bushing).
Front brakes were in great shape when I r&r them a while back to turn the rotors, didn't pull the rears apart but they look good, and I don't have any brake vibrations or issues when moving forward. I can't rule out a driveline clunk or suspension clunk either but the u-joints don't have any slop in them and no squirrely handling issues either.
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My anti-lock brakes keep activating when i am slowing down from a speed above 10 mph once i reach a mphh. I have just installed koni sports on the front and bg springs all around with 20mm wheels spacers in the rear. The sound is coming from the driver side wheel and i can feel the brake pedal reacting in the way it does when the anti-lock brakes are activating. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel back of and check the sensors and wires.
It makes a grinding and popping kind of noise, which again remind me of anti-lock brakes.
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when i bought the t-reg the next day we drove 12 hours to NC, and every time we were on the pike for a while then pulled into a service plaza to refuel or take a break the treg would all of a sudden either jam the brakes or lug the transmission really abrupt just for a instant [URL]....................... it is hard to tell which it is. Kind of like not pulling in the clutch when coming to a stop..
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Change rotors , pads and calipers and I still get a vibration when I hit the brakes slowing down on the highway.
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Just got the Tiguan SE- love it! We have had it for about 3 weeks. I noticed sometimes while applying the brakes, the RPM's will go up as I am slowing down. I know the car has to move between gears when slowing down or speeding up, but it almost as if it gets "stuck" in a gear when the car is slowing down. Any thoughts, input? We don't drive fast, we apply the brakes and gas slowly to ease the car in. This just seems odd as my past car (2005 Maza 3) did not do this. I am new the VW family so maybe I am just not used this.
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I replaced my rear pads on Sunday and the car drives and brakes great. This morning I noticed when I backed into my parking spot at work that the brakes were engaging to the point where I was on a small incline and the car didn't roll at all when I let off the brake pedal.
This was my first time doing the rear pads on my MKVI and my first time doing brakes on a VW. Is there some extra step required that I'm missing? I know the piston was a PITA, definitely not used to having to turn a piston while compressing.
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My dad has a 2008 F150 with just over 36K on the clock, and wouldn't you know it the ABS light came on. He's been a Ford guy all his life and excellent with a wrench, but has never worked on an ABS problem. BTW, this is the first problem he's had on his last 2 F150's.
I know we'll need to plug it up to a scanner. My question is can we plug up to the OBDII port or is there another ABS port we need to plug into, and will a regular scanner work, or do we need a special scanner?
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I am getting a ticking sound when i am slowing down (applying my brakes) at say 35/30mph. The sound stops when I stop. This problem starts after my car warms up; doesn't do it when I first start up.
I've taken the car to 2 Hyundai dealerships and a certified mechanic and the problem continues. I first noticed this about a month ago.
So far no one seems to be able to find the problem. The mechanic did try by replacing the front brake pads. He said something about a "shims piece " and thought if we replace the front pads that would take care of the problem. The rear brakes or ok.
I'm still having the problem and I wonder if it's the rear brakes after all. I don't know what I can try now. Someone suggested going to Brake Check. I have about 1000 miles left on the original warranty.
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