Ford - F150 :: 1977 - Clunk Sound When Put It In Reverse Or When Shifts To A Lower Gear
Jun 11, 2012
I have been fixing up my 77 F150 since I got it in January and it's really starting to look nice! I love this truck, but I have noticed a clunk sound when I put it in reverse and also a same if not similar sound when I'm driving and slow down. It makes a clunk sound when it shifts to a lower gear, (automatic). Now, I was thinking it was a U joint at some point and crawled under there and started to grab them and see if there was any play in any of the spots but found no play. I checked it a few times, thinking well it could be just the point the U joint stopped and that would explain no play but after a few times of crawling under I still never found any.
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Sometimes when putting the vehicle into first it's almost impossible to get it to go into gear. Sometimes it's super smooth. Also when putting into reverse we hear a loud clunk. That one is most of the time but sometimes it goes in smooth. I was doing some looking around at the pedals because I think I am going to have to replace my master cylinder and noticed that on the inside of the vehicle where the clutch master cylinder comes into the vehicle it's leaking black fluid. Does that automatically mean my clutch master cylinder needs to be changed? Could this be the cause of it being difficult to shift because the clutch isn't fully disengaging?
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So a friend of mine has a 01 Passat 1.8 T (Automatic). He is having some reverse issues. It shifts into reverse with a hard clunk then the second you touch the gas it clunks into neutral. The odd part is if you put it in reverse and stay off the gas it will idle back in reverse... But the second you touch the gas nothing. I'm finding it hard to believe the transmission is gone because every other gear is beyond smooth (I mean like brand new car smooth).
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I currently have a 2006 F-250 6.0 with 187,XXX.
My problem that i am having is that the transmission recently within a couple weeks started acting weird about the same time 3 of my fuel injectors started failing. When i start up the truck and put it into drive it takes about 3-5 seconds to shift. Once it's in drive it runs pretty well but it will start shifting out of normal when i go to accelerate. Also when i go to slow down sometime the transmission shifts hard to a lower gear. I also have a video of the sound that it had started to make since its hard to describe.
Here are attached videos and photos. I want to hopefully fix the problems myself so i can learn more about my truck. I am going to handle the fuel injectors here soon since 2 are failing and ones about to these have been causing the truck to shudder at around 47-53 mph but after that its fine.
The transmission is stocked and never been altered, i do admit for 3-4 years I have changed the fluids or filters.
The truck is bullet proofed, sct tuner, upgraded turbo from stock, 4" exhaust, head studs and new everything when the engine was rebuilt and bulletproofed.
I plan on going to ford tmw to have them figure out the problem and hopefully its just solenoids so i can fix it myself. I have a link posted also where you can hear the noise it has been making when in R P and when shifting going down the road and it is a automatic.
YouTube.....
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My Subaru want to stall when it shifts from a higher to a lower gear when driving up a grade/hill. Also does the same thing when pulling out from a stop sign or traffic light. You need to pump the accelerator to get it going.
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I am finding that my GTI's downshifts with the DSG are extremely jerky. Its a 2012 with close to 15,000 miles and whenever I come to a stop, light at a red light or something, the shifts are really rough and sometimes I even get a "clunk" sound. Now, this being said, if the car is in D and while slowing down to stop I tap the paddle to downshift once, suddenly the stops are smooth as butter.
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I bought a 1977 Ford truck a couple of years ago. It has factory air, but the compressor was removed and the hoses were capped and/or poorly taped off when I bought the truck.
I got the bright idea, I'd try to get the air going, but I didn't know anything about a/c systems. I bought a York type (same as what it would have had originally) compressor from Autozone. They told me it was for r134. I put it on the truck along with a new filter/dryer and new expansion valve.
I took the truck to the local shade tree mechanic and he stuck a el cheapo vacuum pump on it for a little while and threw some oil and two or three cans of r134 in it. Well... since then, two summers have passed and it has never worked right.
The compressor really vibrates at low rpms. The air is just barely cool enough to tease me into thinking I have air conditioning. I know this sounds odd, but it seems to work best after I've sat at a stop sign and then take off. It's like idling the engine allows it to "catch up to itself" and then when I drive about 30 mph after a stop sign it actually blows pretty cool for a couple of minutes. But at highway speeds it isn't cool at all. This seems to be the opposite of what I've read. I had the heater & a/c box all apart changing the heater core and all the doors and seals are in good shape inside it. I don't think I'm getting outside air in. At least not in any quantity.
Last summer a friend tried to had one of those cheap gauges and he tried to put some r134 in it but it didn't accept much at all; and it didn't work. I've had about as much as I can take. I need some air conditioning. Should I try to flush out the system, install a new filter/dryer, and get a fresh charge of r12? I'm concerned about trying that because the kid at Autozone told me the compressor was for r134.
I'm pretty confident I don't have any leaks in the system.
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1998 accord 4 cyl auto, mostly on start up and when coming to a stop at a light it sounds like someone is under the floorpan hitting it with a hammer. maybe 5 or 6 hits. I've looked into the exhaust being loose and hitting but it's tight and has good clearance. could it be a broken motor mount letting the engine rock too much? next, SOMETIMES when the trans shifts down into low gear you get a very noticeable clunk and the car kind of shudders. planning on doing a trans drain and fill today. lastly the instrument cluster is a little strange. tach doesn't work at all, speedo is fine as is the gas guage but the temp is erratic. when the temp is acting up you can thump it with your finger and it will jump around.
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Whilst driving unloaded, I mean the car is not under load, in say 5th gear , if I go to increase acceleration I often get a sudden unsmooth change to 4th. The change is not the normal smooth change down but a very abrupt clunk back to the lower gear. This is intermittent and hard to demonstrate to the dealer for repair.
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I got in my 1977 f150 V8 windsor the other day and headed down the road. All of a sudden I started to hear this sound that only way I can describe it is a big log chain moving around or a box of washers being moved around. I got out, popped the hood and thought at first that it was a pulley somewhere on the front of the engine, perhaps water pump pulley or something like that. The closer I got my ear to engine though I think it is coming from the back passenger side of the engine, not the front. I could be wrong about that, but I do know it is coming from the passenger side of the engine. Sometimes it will go away for 1/4 of a mile and then come back. I also noticed that it gets faster when I give it gas and slower when I don't, which is why I was thinking it had to be one of the pulleys going bad. I'm not so sure though because I think it may be coming from the passenger back part of the engine.
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79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
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I just got a brand new 2008 F150 supercrew FX2 last wed. I love it, it's my first truck ever and I'm excited to drive it. I wanted to change the exhaust to something that has a low rumble and is deep, not too loud or anything.
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Having transmission problems? Everything I've read before says these transmissions are better than gm Allison's and they can handle up to 600 horse before you gotta worry about beefing them up but mines starting to act funny.
How important is the transmission tune? My truck it's tuned with the spe hot tune and trans tune. Didn't like the way it clunk bang hard shifts though so I ran factory trans tune for a while but it felt very soft like it was slipping when I got after it on the performance setting of spe hot so I went back to spe trans file.
I get a little twang sound that sounds like it's coming from the trans between 3-4 gear shifts, initially only heard it after getting on it hard in performance but it's getting worse and happens on stock power level under light acceleration now sometimes. Also I lost all gears briefly and it wouldn't shift into manual at all when I stopped to turn around the other day.
Working fine in drive but when I shifted out to reverse it had nothing in any gear and manual wouldn't light up on the display. I shut it off and restarted the engine and it came back and worked fine after that but not sure what happened there, don't think it's good though. Did using the stock transmission file with the hot engine tune or the hard clunk bang custom trans file up my trans, freak malfunction?
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What is the source of the sound? Listen for the clunk b/w 3 and 4 seconds. I just dropped off my 2016 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x2 at the dealership. I'm afraid that they will say the sound is a characteristic but I never had the sound on my 2011 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x4. This sound happens when I go from drive to reverse or when using the exhaust brake when towing. The sound does not exist when the transmission is cold only when it is fully hot. It will also make this noise when climbing a really steep hill in first gear with fiver and the torque converter needs to slip a little.
As far as I can tell all of the u joints are tight and the axial support is tight I only have 2000 miles on my truck.
[URL] ....
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Vehicle: 1998 F150, 158k mi. MT (M5OD), 4.9l I-6.
Description of problem: About 2 weeks/500 miles ago, truck developed a scraping/squeaking sound. I thought maybe something was rubbing on the driveshaft, but inspection revealed no likely candidate, nor disturbed metal on the shaft.
Over the course of the next 500 miles, it's gotten worse, so that current symptoms exhibit themselves (to one degree or another) 80% of the time. The symptoms are:
- Worst on first drive of day, on first mile.
- Sound produced somewhere between scrape and squeak.
- Vibration noticed throughout cab and through steering wheel ONLY when foot off clutch...smooth as soon as clutch depressed.
- Giving it a little gas (at constant speed) usually smooths out symptoms somewhat.
- Recently had bed loaded to gross. Vibrations went away, to return once bed empty.
- MT fluid found to be full, in good condition, and with 15k mi since change.
So, what's up? Given that a load in the bed improves things, I was thinking U-joints: but the driveshaft spins in neutral, too, so why would pressing the clutch change anything? I also thought about tired clutch bearings, but everything I've read says pressing the clutch makes things worse, not better.
Is it worth examining the tranny-to-engine bolts?
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The car is manual, 95.000 KM. The problem is everytime i put the car in gear and start rolling, I hear a loud thump/clunk coming from the underside of the engine.
The only mods on the car are intake, a tune and a dog bone insert. The clanking is way more apparent when i'm in reverse. Whether i'm backing out of my uphill driveway or on a flat surface, EVERYTIME the car is at a dead stop and I give it throttle, something clanks...
My mechanic had lifted the car. He thought it might have been suspension, but he ruled that out. He believes that it is in fact the dog bone insert that is faulty. Upon further inspection, the red insert (from USP I believe) had cracked. although the insert was visibly broken (I've had it for barely 5000 km's, WTF) I'm not entirely sure that that is what's making the clunking sound because that sound was there from before I had put the dog bone insert in place.
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I continuously read that people with 6.2 F250s averaging 13 mpg or so in a combination city/highway driving. This 2014 4x4 barely has enough power to move itself (honestly, I'd rather have my Ram 1500 back) and barely gets 10mpg. Basically have to give it about half-pedal to even get up to freeway speed and floor it if i want to pass anything. Is it just that much of a POS or does this not sound right? Other than a massive "clunk" sound when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa, no indication of any problems.
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On my way home from work the other day my 2000 7.3l started making a humming sound while driving. I noticed that it was shifting harder and it began to slam into gear when I would take off from a stop. By the time I pulled into the driveway I had to be half way into the pedal to keep it moving. I shifted into reverse and it clunked loudly and didn't want to back up. I don't know much about transmissions but I'm thinking that it's probably shot. I'm hoping that it's something other than a complete rebuild but doubtful.
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Recently, when turning while the car is in reverse, I started noticing a popping sound coming from the area near my right front tire. Now, when I accelerate quickly from a dead stop or drive away after being stopped on a hill, I'm hearing that same popping/clunk noise from the right front tire. When I'm stopped at a light and then take my foot off the brake, wait a second, and then gently accelerate, I don't hear it. I've had a couple of mechanics take a look at the cv boot for the right front tire, but they tell me that it's not cracked or broken. Is it possible that the cv joint has gone bad, but the boot is not broken? Or, is there something else going on?
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Never been on a forum but I've got a 1977 ford f150 with a 400,c6 trans currently with 3.50 gears and 26.5 overall dia tires. if I was to put 34.5 inch tires and 4.56s would it drive like it does now, same speeds and rpms in all three gears and it shouldn't chug more gas than it already does... right?
If im reasking a question post link haven't found one.
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I have a 13 Altima and have been hearing a clunk/pop sound when coming to a stop and sometimes when changing from park to drive and park to reverse. It seems to also be there when accelerating too and the car is also seem to be vibrating when moving at lower speeds. Today i noticed something else. I parked the car and took the key out. I went to the side of the car and slowly rocked it back and forth and started to hear this clunk sound. I have uploaded it to youtube and can be found here [URL].... . After hearing the sound, I decided to take the driver wheel off and noticed it makes the same sound when i move the tires. It seems to be coming from the CV joint, where it connects to the transmission. why would a car make that clunk sound with the car/key off and swayed back and fourth? does this seem like a CV joint issue or something related to the transmission.
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