Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Wrench Light On Upon Starting And Trying To Put It Into Gear - Code P0720
Nov 23, 2015
The last few days I've started getting the Wrench Light on my dash panel upon starting the truck and trying to put it into gear. I first noticed this on a cold morning and got the wrench but the truck went into Reverse and once I got going I was only in 3rd gear. I started and stopped the engine a few times and finally got it going. Since then it seems to do it all the time whether hot or cold. Tonight I noticed that if i start the engine and just go directly into Drive. I don't have the issue but if I ever go into Reverse it goes into limp mode and i get the big yellow wrench again. I only have engine Code P0720 which seems to refer to a speed sensor. I can't seem to find the sensor listed on the typical auto part websites.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I'm having issues when shifting into reverse and I it goes into limp mode when the wrench light shows up. This will not happen when shifting into Drive. When in limp mode I get engine code P0720. This calls for a bad Output Speed Sensor and my research says the sensor is on the back of the transmission but I cannot find any sensors on the transmission. there are several connectors clipped to it but I don't see any bolted in sensors. Also I cannot find a replacement sensor anywhere so I'm wondering if this is a generic code.
View 3 Replies
My 09 F150 Platinum 4x2 used to get 15 mpg city regularly. One day while driving the wrench light popped up and i was in limp mode. I parked the truck and went to my scheduled squadron PT like a good troop is supposed to do. Anyway, finished and the truck has been fine, Ford dealer finds no issues at all with it. My gripe is now i get 12 MPG since the issue and I told them my MPG has gotten worse since it happened. What it could be?
View 1 Replies
Town and all shops nearby have a week wait to get the truck in there. This happened once or twice a year ago but I'd pull over, shut it off and when I restarted it everything was fine. I'll be driving and all of a sudden the information display on the cluster will show a wrench signaling something's wrong(see image), then the speedometer will go to 0 and all information in center display will show flat lines. This started up yesterday but is now doing it after about 10min of driving every time I being driving. What's worse is the truck will randomly start shifting or shift extremely hard even when driving at a consistent speed. This was taken while truck was going about 45, but shows 0...
View 5 Replies
Having this issue for a while. Finally have time off work to dig into it some more. 00 ex, v10. Intermittently flashes o/D light and shifts hard. I replaced 2 out of the three speed sensors. One at the output and the other on the axle. Only active code is the p0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit. Last weekend removed and inspected harness, did not electrically measure it tho. My question is: intermittent problem? I drove it today to see if it was still doing it and it drove like a dream! Haven't had the battery disconnected or anything, just sometimes it does it and other times it a smooth ride.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty with a 5.4L engine, regular cab. The truck has 149000 miles on it. I bought it about a month ago and had the transmission rebuilt, the spark plugs and coils replaced. Apparently the shady dealer I bought the truck from had power washed the engine and there was water in 3 of the spark plug wells on the drivers side. When I got the truck back from the transmission shop and backed it out of the parking lot, the OD off light started flashing and the SEL light came on. The code showed to be a P0720 to which the mechanic at the transmission shop replaced the speed sensor on the top of the tranny.
He said if it comes on again then the speed sensor on the rear differential could be the problem and that he would have to charge me to replace that sensor since it isn't covered under the warranty for the transmission.. I replaced the sensor myself on the rear differential yesterday and thought the problem was fixed. I drove the truck around for 30 minutes with no problems, until I put the truck in reverse, then the OD off light started flashing and the SEL light comes on giving the same P0720 code.
View 4 Replies
I just replaced my starter and on my first ride after replacing it the X started to stumble a bit, and then would stall out at almost every stop light. It threw a CE light and I pulled the code P0720. I searched here and it seems most guys say this is a C.O.P. issue. If it is a bad C.O.P. would it stall like that?
I did have the battery disconnected but I made sure the terminals were clean and tight. Is this a coincidence or did I do something while changing the starter?
View 8 Replies
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4. It began giving intermittent tow/haul flashing light, when going up or down hill but would clear and drive next time truck was cycled off/on. No ABS lights and code reader generated P0720 for the output speed sensor, now I can get it to generate just driving slowly fwd and rev a few times. All of this has been in the last few days.
Truck will stall if I take it up a slight incline with the fault. I replaced the sensor on the top front of the 4r100 transmission and also replaced the sensor on the rear differential after giving up on looking for an output sensor on the transmission. I know the 2WD transmissions have an output sensor but is there one on the 4WD version? I have read several past threads discussing the P0720. I am hoping to confirm what sensor I need to be looking at and where it is located in this application.
View 14 Replies
Just got the transmission rebuilt in my truck and other then shifting hard sometimes it has been doing great, Hooked it up to the goose neck this evening and everything was fine then went to back it up and pull it forward and after a short distance the od light was flashing and when i ran a check on it it was p0720? The transmission has less then 1000 miles on it?!?!? 1999 Ford F-250 7.3 Automatic....
View 5 Replies
Well, truck did it again last night. Shut down to idle, wrench light came on. My Edge Insight showed P2104, Throttle Actuator Control System-Forced Idle. This is the third time it's done it over several months. Took it to Ford again, they didn't find anything. First time they replaced the throttle control unit. He's talking about RF interference but ignition & alternator checked ok. Each time it's done it has been in the same place, Sacramento Raceway. This is getting ridiculous, can't just drive it & show them because it's only done it over several months period.
View 14 Replies
He has a 2013 F-150 XLT with the Ecoboost. He has 29,000 miles on the truck.
He is ~1,300 miles into his trip; and has about another 4,500 to go! On Friday, his check engine light came on (while towing). The next day it went back off. Yesterday, the light came back on (while not towing this time). He took the truck into a Ford Dealer in Rapid City, SD this morning. The CEL light was still on this morning when he arrived at the dealership. The dealership said the code is P0299 - Turbo Underboost.
They said they've run tests and can find nothing wrong. Naturally, he is not very happy being this far from home with 3 more weeks of vacation left and his truck acting up. Especially since the CEL light is on but the dealer can find nothing wrong. I'd be puckered-up too!
Experienced this Turbo Underboost condition? What was the cause? How can the CEL light be on but the dealership not be able to find a problem?
View 6 Replies
I have a 2009 ford f150 4.6l 3v v8 standard cab with about 53k miles on it.
Recently the check engine light came on so i went to autozone to have the codes pulled for free, it says i have a small evaporative leak.
They said may be the gas cap, but the thing is, i have a quick fill cap that came in stock with truck so the gas cap isnt even needed.
I've looked under the hood, and noticed that there is little pool of oil on top of the valley of the engine on the passenger side of the engine, could it possibly be the PCV hose that is bad and be related to the evaporative leak code? or its unrelated and i have a bad gasket for the valve cover?
It isn't affecting the performance of the engine,.. yet. I have a road trip for my work coming up very soon and i wanted to try to fix it before then.
View 3 Replies
For the last few months my truck has been throwing an intermittent check engine light due to the same code every time - P0171. The dealer has allegedly checked everything and has given me the "We have done all we can do" speech. Lead tech even suggested that since today's fuels have alcohol in them, that a check engine light would be normal. The truck has been in the shop 3 times with no success or even remote possibility of what the problem could be.
The check engine light has since gone from intermittent to constant and comes back on after 5 drive cycles after clearing with an OBD2 scanner. Also, I'm now getting a P0174 code.
Personally, I think they're trying to blow me off because I'm a few months and about 2k miles away from being out of CPO warranty.
Truck is a 2013 F150 Super crew 2wd 5.0 with about 45k miles.
View 9 Replies
On three different occasions in the past month I noticed air bag light on in my 13 supercrew. Code comes up as B0091 drivers door crash sensor. This truck was bought new and only has 13000 miles on it so my gut is telling me it's something to do with the harness that is at the door hinge. I've carefully inspected the wires and do not see any obvious broken wires but that doesn't mean one of the wires isn't breaking on the inside.
View 3 Replies
I have searched and found a few threads of folks getting a p0720 code and truck revving and dying. Just wondering how to resolve the issue and what the cause was. I have an 01 ex with v-10
View 13 Replies
Okay, I have a P0720 code. I bought the Output Shaft Speed Sensor and read that it is on the back end of the transmission.
Need to confirm that it is on top of the transmission, near the tail end? Why are parts that go bad always in the most inconvenient places?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2009 F150 with 100,000+ miles on it. It will crank, but it won't start. It was sitting for 10 days while I was away on vacation. It was running just fine before I left. I though it might be the battery so I changed it and it still won't turn over. I read about a fuel pump driver module on the 04-08 models, but I'm not sure if the '09's have had an issue. My only thoughts would be the starter or the fuel pump.
View 6 Replies
Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
View 3 Replies
So just got a new pcm installed since i fried the last one anyway. I had a new trans installed almost two weeks ago factory 4r100 now i have a p0720 code. Id take it back to that dealer.
View 8 Replies
2001 7.3 Excursion, full mods in sig line.
Recently started getting a P0720 for OSS on 4-6 pound launches, and the X will lurch and then stall out. It drives fine when I drive like a normal person, it also launches fine at 8psi and up (obliterates the tires in the process). Little curious as to where I should start looking beyond the usual culprits on checking the connector for corrosion and verifying the sensor itself is clean/still good.
Stupid thing drives like a peach everywhere else except the 4-6psi LAUNCH ONLY range. Normal driving through that pressure range is absolutely fine. 4-6 is the only problem child area.
View 9 Replies
Long time Ex owner. This is my second 2000, 4wd, Limited, 6.8 V-10. Just bought this one last month and after two weeks of local driving the following problem showed up:
1. Week of July 5 through 11: With vehicle cold (65*) started and placed in reverse to back out of garage. After slight movement engine stalled like a locked up torque converter or turning ignition off. CEL illuminated. Turned off ignition and restarted. Again in reverse had same stall. Third time no problem but CEL still on. Code is P0720 using "Actron Auto Scanner."
2. Erased Code P0720 (OSS circuit malfunction) and P0307 (Cyinder 7 Misfire Detected). Drove car approx 20 miles without incident. No stumbling, no vibration, no detectable misfire, shifts okay, speedometer okay.
3. Next day with vehicle cold, started to back out of garage and stalled with CEL illuminated and O/D light in shifter blinking. Recycled ignition, started and no O/D light but CEL still illuminated. Vehicle did not stall. Checked code and P0720 set.
4. Replaced OSS on tail shaft of transmission. Same stalling problem with P0720 set.
5. Replaced #7 COP w/aftermarket type to test possibility of bad COP because of earlier P0307 DTC. Same problem exists, first start of the day the vehicle will stall as soon as it starts to move in reverse.
6. Replaced rear ABS sensor. While doing so noticed the ABS sensor wire harness was rubbing the tailpipe and the split, wire conduit was partially melted. Inspected wires (2) within and both appeared okay. Safety wired the harness away from the tailpipe.
7. Let the vehicle sit awhile. Outside Air Temp 84*. Started, placed in reverse, moved a couple of feet and engine stalled and O/D light on steady. Recycled ignition and started again, backed out with no stall or warning lights. No CEL on. Drove 10 miles without incident.
8. Allowed vehicle to cool, started and attempted to back out of garage. Engine stalled, CEL illuminated and O/D light flashing, code P0720.
9. Sunday morning 12 July: 71*, Allowed vehicle to idle in P in garage for 10 minutes before trying to back out. Vehicle did not stall. CEL still on from previous day, no O/D light. Erased P0720 code. Vehicle operating normally.
10. Sunday Noon 12 July: 85*, Started, placed in reverse, backed out and no stall or CEL or O/D light.
After considerable research online at ford-trucks.com found P0720 is a common problem but not easily diagnosed. In most cases the gremlin is COPs and or deteriorated plug boots but in this situation the engine appears to run smoothly and the failure/errors only show up when the vehicle is moved in reverse gear after a cold startup. Once it stalls then restarted it runs fine.
Made a quick check of alternator for failed diode using DVM since I don't have a scanner. Checked okay for voltage and AC ripple. I do have an appointment on Wednesday with my local auto repair shop for troubleshooting. Will have them do continuity check between OSS and PCM and an AC ripple test. Does this sound like an electrical circuit problem or internal transmission problem? Want to make myself as smart as possible when I talk with the techs.
View 4 Replies
