Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Whistling When Heating / AC Fan Is On High
Jan 9, 2016
I recently purchased a used 2014 F150 XLT, it has 18k miles. I found that when I turn the AC or heat fan is on high there is a loud whistling noise. However, I discovered that when the recirculate function is on the whistling stops. I took the truck to a Ford dealer since it's under warranty and they have replaced the blower motor twice but that hasn't fixed it. The air intake to the vent system might be obstructed, that would explain why it doesn't whistle when recirculate is on. Where the intake for the vent is?
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My problem is this. I hear my transmission shifting through my heating system. I will explain. When I have my heating system on I hear my transmission shifting like a humming. The transmission shifts just fine. When I turn off my heating system the hum goes away.
The truck is a 2012 F4 ecoboost with 149000 Km or 92000 miles.
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Usually after I run the car in manual/sport mode, I begin to hear a high-pitched 'hissing/whistling' noise coming from the engine. It sounds like a vacuum leak. It is audible while driving with the windows down.
I am having problems pin pointing the source, but it sounds like its coming from the center block. What is the right direction to the leak? It starts exactly at 1500 and cuts off at 2200 rpm (while in gear). 1500 to 3000 rpm while in park..
I have a Takeda intake installed and I re-tighten the fittings.
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I know I've complained about oil consumption before on my 12' 5.0 with 42 K. I've kinda come to terms with it and figure not much I can do ? Next oil change I want to try to improve it. Checked it the other day and has used approx 3/4 of quart in 2200 K. I've read other guys post talking about improving consumption by switching brands and trying different viscosity. I'm using the recommended Ford 5/20 synthetic now.
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I drove to work in the snow with the truck in 4x4 High for 31 highway miles. I averaged between 30 - 50 mph depending upon traffic. I was impressed to get 17.3 mpg in 4x4 high in the snow. My old 2002 Dodge Ram Cummins got about 10 mpg in 4x4 high.
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My 2010 f150 Ford 5.4 liter Extended Cab Pickup Heater Fan has a mind of it's own. It is on high and will not go down or off. The icon works, looking like the fan is increasing or decreasing, but it does not. Is there a quick fix for this problem. I watched a YouTube on the problem maybe being the Blower Motor Resistor Control. If this is right, what is the procedure to fix the problem?
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For the last week or so I noticed that my a/c wasnt working on the "1" setting, but the 2,3 and 4 settings worked fine. Last night leaving work, the blower was on the "3" setting and the blower suddenly just stopped blowing. I have cold air in max a/c mode only on 4, if I take it off of max a/c and just use the vents it will work intermittently on the 2 and 3 setting but never works on 1.
I know the 04-08 trucks had resister problems that would cause like symptoms, but I read somewhere that the entire system is different on these trucks. The truck has 4200 miles on it, so when I get off of work Wed off to the dealer it goes, I am just wondering what the problem might be for speculation purposes.
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Alright I did a search and found these threads with no final resolution on each. My new 2013 has the whistling noise at high speeds (65+) and high winds. It's for sure not from the engine and coming from both the driver and passenger mirrors. I can hear it with either or both front windows down but not back windows. No whistle at idle or due to high RPMs. What is the Jetta TSB # or a fix for this issue.
[URL] .....
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So, I get back from vacay and find my baby has a new issue.... the "battery" light came on just after I started it up after my 10 days away.
I can drive it seemingly ok, it did do some cool flashing and lost display and radio on one trip but now it seems not as bad.
I did a volt meter chack on the batt terminals and have 12.3 or 12.4 with key off and 14.9 with engine running. I turned on the headlights and rear defroster and get 14.6V on the terminals. 21.6A running to the main fuse block right by the rad,
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2011 FX2, 81,000 miles, with dual control A/C. The blower motor works fine on speeds 1-5. Put it on speed 6 or 7 and the motor trips after about 5 seconds. Turn it back below 6 or 7 and it starts working fine. I have replaced the resistor and the blower with the same results.
I have read through a good deal of the posts and most seem to deal with the resistor and the lower speeds not working. It's like its tripping a breaker or overload.
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my high beam switch works if I hold the switch in the forward position, but it won't stay on when I let go. Is there a fix without having to replace the switch?
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Just got my 2014 SCREW 6.5bed with eco boost. Truck has a high frequency vibration very noticeable at 45-55 MPH. So bad the rear view mirror is blurry. Took it to the dealer and they said the e-brake was dragging and fixed that and said the vibration was gone. Not gone. Did some searches and found a number people reporting vibration issues possibly related to drive shaft issues.
Took this video of the slip yoke at the T-case idling in first gear, sent it to the dealer and they said that's normal. I don't think that looks normal. Does that looks normal?
Slip Yoke at T-Case ...
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I have a '12, F150. Is there a fix to keep the fog lights on while on high beam?
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What is the testing procedures for the blower motor controller on my 2009 150 Lariat. In the old days it was called the resistor but now it is computer controlled for the dual climate control. My fan is stuck on high, the fan switch does work(the bars on the display change when I push the fan speed button). The climate control works also, just blasts you with air and the temp is changing a lot due to the fact of the fan on High. I am 99% sure it is the blower motor controller, but I would like to test the controller.
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2014 F150 3.5 Ecoboost...
I recently got my oil changed at the dealership and yesterday when I did my periodic oil check, I noticed that the oil level is slightly higher than the "high" mark on the dipstick. Its about 4mm above the high line, maybe 5mm at most. I do not smell gas in the oil, and given that its been about a month since the change, I simply think that slightly too much oil was added.
My question is will a slight overfill like that affect this engine? I'm particularly worried about "frothing" of the oil by the crankshaft. I don't think that oil level is nowhere near to be "pushed" by pistons and affect my seals. Correct me if I'm wrong here. I drive on very flat terrain. So the question to those that have knowledge on how much clearance there is between the crankshaft and oil level in that engine is, do I leave as is or go back to the dealer to adjust. (Reason I ask is because I'm particularly busy with a project at work, and if I don't have to burn time to correct this I would rather not given my busy schedule.)
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I have a 2013 F150 FX4. When the temperature is below 45 and the truck is cold the right high beam wont turn off if used, until the truck engine is warmed up.
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I took my 2011 Lariat in for first service and reported that it sometimes tries to accelerate on its own during slowdown from high speed, eg when coming off a freeway ramp, rpms go up and vehicle wants to speed up rather than slow down. (sounds like something a Toyota would do!)
Dealer says its a known problem with 5.0L and performed a supposed fix per "TSB 11-8-9, 5.0L ENGINE BRAKING PERFORMANCE DURING LOW SPEED COAST DOWN," essentially a PCM reflash.
Happened once in a parking lot...thought the floormat was stuck on the accelerator but the pedal was clear.
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For my 2013 with HID lights, I'm adding a light bar, and trying to find a good wire to tap into so I can wire in a relay to turn the light bar on with my high beams. As it's going to a relay, I originally thought to use a fuse tap, but the high beam fuse is always powered. Any other wire I can use in the cab?
I'm also looking for an in cab wire for the reverse lights I'm adding. I've been trying to make sense of the wiring diagrams online, but I am not having any success.
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2014. Noticed the feel and sometimes clunk when shifting to 4 high? My house sits up a hill and this time of year, routinely have to use 4X4 to get up. There is a little more noise and vibration than im use to. Usually shift coming down a semi flat dirt/ice road at low speeds, typically about 10mph. Going in for first oil change soon and was gonna ask them to check it out for peace of mind.
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This evening, my F150 with 2,600 miles developed a high pitched squeal, much like you might experience on an older vehicle with failing front brakes. Yes, that same squeal/grind the brakes make...metal on metal. It came in instantly while at highway speeds. It was VERY loud. The pitch didn't really change with speed...it was pretty consistant going slow or fast. There was no vibration, chatter or growl as I would expect with a failing bearing.
It was definately in the driveline/brakes. I was 10 miles away from a friends house, so I turned around and took it back to his place. Shortly after turning around, it quieted, only sounding when I would turn ( like a wheel bearing would when being side loaded ). I looked at the brake disks, thinking something was grinding on one of them. The outsides of the disks looked fine. Due to the shields on the inside, I couldn't see.
Later in the evening, I had to drive it back home, about 50 miles. Again, it was quiet unless turning fairly hard. By the time I got home, the squeal had turned into an intermitant growl/thump, as if a warped rotor was banging on the caliper. The noise was 1 to 1 with the rotation of the driveline. But still no vibration. Brakes work perfectly and the noise doesn't change with brake use. Backing up and turning hard results in a variety of sounds, including squeaks.
The hubs and CV joints felt cool. The brake disks were not hot as if they were dragging.
It is 4x4 / 3.7l
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I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
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