Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: When Key Put In Ignition Truck Shut Off?
Jul 22, 2011
My wife and mom went to the dealership today to get remote start installed on their F-150's (bad decision not to do it from the factory). Both trucks had it installed, and it starts the truck fine, but the problem is as soon as they put the key in the ignition to turn it to "Run", the truck shuts off and they have to restart it. The tech says thats "Normal", and it's because of the "My Key" feature.
Neither of the trucks have had any of the keys set up to be "My Keys", all are exactly how they are from the factory. Something doesn't seem right....
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I just went to try and go pick up some dinner for my wife and I, hopped in the truck, key in the ignition, turn the key, let the computer go through the welcome screen, saw a very brief unknown image then main screen image. Turn over the truck and it just cranks. While cranking, it gives me a tpms failure, a service advance trac an engine overheat(even though it was roughly 24hrs since it last ran), and the wrench, of which those are what I remember but not necessarily in that order. I tried to plug in my dash boss to pull the codes, but no dice. I guess I an just curious what I might be looking at.
Background on the truck: 2012 screw with eco boost, 42,000mi, ford esp, and 99% trouble free.
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The 6 button powercode remote start and alarm will shut the engine down if you open the door after remote starting.
Here is the fix, I found it somewhere else. It's nice doing stuff yourself that the dealer tells you it cant be done.
open the drivers door
turn on the ignition
hold the program/override button for 15 sec (horn will chirp 3 times)
press the override button again horn will chirp 4 times
" " horn will chirp 5 times
" " horn will chirp 6 times
" " horn will chirp 7 times
" " horn will chirp 8 times letting you know you are in option bank 5.
press the panic button on the fob horn will chirp once
" " chirp twice
" " chirp three times
" " chirp 4 times
" " chirp 5 times
press the lock button on the fob once...your led alarm light will now be off.
Turn off the ignition
you are done
Enjoy
Activate the remote start open the door(smile) just don't press the brake before you put key in ignition and turn.
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery and engine and aux power were off. Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. I tried putting key in ignition and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in, connected battery then truck started. Last stop took key out and disc battery engine stayed on. Several prayers and repeated steps above made home.
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On wife's 2011 ESCAPE, we want to install another "cigarette lighter" type female power port that is live only when the key is on. (to power up the GPS without having to unplug/replug it every time.)
Any best place to tap into an easily accessible wire that is hot only while vehicle is running---maybe off the power window circuit, and what color wire am I looking for & where without too much disassembly?
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2011 f150 - Wiper is in off position, but continues to operate intermittently.
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I traded in my 2011 Lariat last month because I had quite a bit of problems with it in the short time I had it. I also didn't care as much for the bells and whistles as I thought I would when I bought it.
I got such a good deal on a new 2011 Lariat Super Crew, that I traded. Shortly after getting the new truck, I had to take it to the dealer for two dents that I found the first time I washed it. I didn't see them when I took delivery because it was dark. I had not seen the truck before that because they got it from another dealer to get the color I wanted. I also had problems with the radio buttons on my steering wheel and the sirius button on the dash not working at times, damaged trim around the left side of the windshield, a discoloration the size of a nickel on the console that I noticed when taking delivery, and a ticking noise in the engine . After the truck was in the shop for 3 days, I get it back without anything being corrected. Parts had to be ordered for the console and trim piece.
I took the truck back in 10 days ago for the engine noise and for them to repair the dents that were there when I got it, along with more troubleshooting on my intermittent problems with the radio and steering wheel buttons. I get a call late yesterday afternoon with the verdict.....Ford says replace the engine due to something being wrong with the crankshaft.
I have to say, I'm pretty disgusted right now. I'm not so sure that I want this truck anymore because of all the issues I've had in the short time I've owned it. Service department at the dealer has been great, and the dealership has been talking about possibly getting me into a new truck. I'm just not so sure I want to try a a third truck. I've been a Ford man my entire life, but I'm disgusted with them right now. I certainly don't want a Chevy or a Dodge, so I don't know what I'm going to do at this point.
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Noticed on my wife's 2013 F150 that when you put the key in the ignition without turning it on that the dash lights will flicker on/off and the easy out power seat will move back and forth if you wiggle the key. My SD did the same thing while under warranty and the dealer replaced the ignition switch. How hard of a repair is this to do? It doesn't do this with the key in the acc or run position.
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First week or so, the alarm was fine. It would go off if the passenger didn't have their belt on. Suddenly, it wouldn't shut off, even after the passenger put their seatbelt on. We went through the procedure to just disable it. It worked for a couple days.
Then it started going off again. It only happens if I have a passenger in the front seat. (I have two children in the back but they are in carseats and if it is just them and I, we have no problems, but if my husband is in the passenger seat - we have problems).
We went through the procedure to disable it and it didn't work this time. After more reading I realized the same procedure to disable it, enables it, too - sooo we did it a 3rd time to disable it, again. It worked.
Same trip, we got back in the car -everyone is buckled up and IT GOES OFF AGAIN!! I just want it disabled, period. It drives me crazy.
(It will stop dinging about 10 minutes into the drive but most my trips are under 10 minutes so that means all the time)
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I want too hook up a switch to shut my headlights and brake lights off. I want to hook into the ground side. How big of a switch I need to use. I don't want them on when I am hunting.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.2L Was working great until the other day when I went to hit the gas and the RPMs dropped and the truck shut off. I tried to restart which it would do for maybe a second and then shut down again. I checked the fuel line going to the top of the engine with the key switch on and there was not very good fuel pressure. so I thought my fuel pump was bad. After switching the fuel pump, the truck still starts and immediately shuts off. I checked the fuel line again and this time it is giving an initial burst of fuel for a second and then nothing. What else it could be?
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My radio stopped working on my way to work. I heard a loud "pop" of static and then it shut off. I took it to the dealer, which had a hard time fixing it (they had it about 2 weeks), and they replaced all the fuses in the truck and it worked for about a week, but it just stopped again. Not sure what to do.
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I've got a bit of a weird problem with my 2012 F150 XLT Supercab w/ 5.0 and 4x4. My airbag light flashes on once ignition is in the "ON" position then turns off and back on making it code 1-1 I believe but, I cannot for the life of me, find anything about this. Also, for some reason it only happens when it's above 66 degrees outside, the temperature barely gets above that until this time of year and as soon as I take it anywhere they pull it into their shop, which is cooler than outside, and the code disappears. I would like to see if I can solve this first without doing taking it to a dealer and have a huge bill. I checked all of the cables under the seats, the fuses, the battery and the airbag module under the center console and I cannot find anything that seems loose.
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I want to lower my 2014 FX2 supercrew 2/4. Can't seem to find any drop spindles for it. What are you using to drop your trucks. I don't want to change the driving or handling of the truck any more than necessary.
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My truck doesn't blow hot air no more, just ice cold, for sure no fun with -15 c the temp. gauge shows that the engine is warm, blower motor works, got coolant replaced last summer...
F150 2009 xlt 5.4L....
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So my truck hit 1,000 miles. I decided to change the oil to get the factory oil out and remove any material that may be in there from the break in. I know the motor hasn't fully broken in. My question is what is the purpose of that shroud under the front of the truck? It seems like it can almost get caught on parking bumpers. It also makes it very difficult to get under there and change the oil. I had to go from the side. Need to remove it? It seems to be held by 2 good size bolts by the frame.
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I'm having a problem with my 2010 F150 4x4. I'm a mail carrier and when I'm stopped at mail boxes my truck flutters and and acts like it's not getting gas or not getting fire. If I give it gas it goes on. It may do this 1 time a day or 100 times a day. My check engine light has come on and then after awhile it will go off. The Ford dealership thinks it is an oil pressure problem but the oil pressure gauge doesn't drop when this happens.
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I have pulled a pop up with my truck before with no problem. I bought a boat on Friday and pulled it too and from the lake ( 2.5 hours each way). The boat is 21 feet and weighs 3000 pounds empty, no gas. The trailer is a bumper pull. I was pulling no more then 4,000. Under 50 mph everything felt fine. At times when going over 50 the truck was shaking. It would happen and then stop. It does not seem to be coming from the engine.
It would happen up hill and down hill. I was thinking it was just the vibration from the boat, can a load that size make the whole truck shake?? Also the truck made a horrible clunk after backing the boat down the ramp and pulling it back up. It happened when I took the truck out of park into drive. This can be something other then the transmission???
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So today was the hottest day I've encountered, since purchasing my '13, FX4, EcoBoost. It was 91 degrees out, which I know isn't THAT hot for some parts of the country.
That said, it's the first time since I've owned my '13, EcoBoost that I needed to use A/C all day. One thing I noticed is that the A/C fans are EXTREMELY loud.
The noise outside seems louder than an early 6.0 Powerstroke idling, or say even the 7.3 PSD. Sounds like a 747 taking off.
Is this normal or is something wrong with my truck? If I turn the A/C off, the super loud fan turns off, and the low speed fan for what I assume is the radiator keeps on, but is barely heard.
I don't remember the A/C fan being that loud on my previous truck '11, 5.0, XLT, but it had more equipment, and the engine wasn't as quiet as my EcoBoost now, which is almost silent.
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We have a 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 3V. Starts fine for several days then all of the sudden it won't crank. It turns over normally but will not start. Then after 10 - 15 minutes of trying it starts. Does fine for a day or two then it happens again. It is not throwing any codes. We have replaced the spark plugs, crank shaft sensor, and checked all the fuses.
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