Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Way To Break Eco-Boost?
May 17, 2012
Take delivery of my new F-150 tomorrow. Was wondering if there is any particular way to break these motors in.
View 7 RepliesTake delivery of my new F-150 tomorrow. Was wondering if there is any particular way to break these motors in.
View 7 Replies2009 f150 5.4. Replacing water pump and I can't get the fan to break loose. I've broken 2 belt wrenches. I've just sprayed liquid wrench on it .
View 9 RepliesI have a 2011 SCREW (build date late April) where the turbos started cycling on and off during acceleration or under load when pulling a trailer or going into a strong head wind. It started at about 18,000 miles and I brought it in to the dealer. They road tested it and could not duplicate. It continued doing it and I had a dealer tech ride with me at the next oil change. He confirmed the problem...this was around 22,000 miles.
Dealership contacted Ford and although they were aware of it (something to do with opening and closing of waste gates if that makes sense) they did not have a fix. They said to check back after the holidays. Since then it has gotten worse cycling on and off under a lesser load. The dealership checked again two days ago with Ford and still no solution but they thought the eventual fix would be to re-flash the computer.
Looking for a sunshade that fits the front windshield pretty good and isn't too small or big or bulky.
View 8 RepliesHad a quick question on if there is a right or wrong way to break in a brand new engine?
I have a 2011 Corolla S, Manual Transmission...Since ive got it i shift gears at 3,000 RPM's, I have a buddy who shifts every 3,500 RPM's. Is There any benefits to shifting at higher RPM's during the break in of the engine?
I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
While installing a K&N air filter in my 2014 Prius Three 1.8L I noticed a charcoal pad in the air cleaner box. Might this be something of an impediment to air flow? I'm considering removing it to see if there is any performance boost.
View 12 RepliesStarted a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
View 6 RepliesI am having a problem repairing my 1997 aerostar with a 3.0 engine. Code PO340 comes up. Ive replaced the cam sensor, cam sensor housing and the pcm. Using the diagnostic charts, I've thoroughly checked out the wiring, in the harness, at the sensor, and at the pcm. I've set the cam sensor housing at TDC with the appropriate timing tool. Code P0340 still comes up. I've seen a couple of other aerostars with the same problem. Ford TSBs .....
View 14 RepliesI had first two spark plugs break off in my 2005 F150 before stopping. I ran five tanks of injector cleaner through using different brands of cleaner. The next six plugs removed without any issues.
Since then, I replaced 2 plugs after 25000 miles. Used one tank of injector cleaner and had no problem.
I would suggest that anyone planning on changing plugs run some injector cleaner through before the change. The cleaner seems to remove the carbon build-up around the plugs.
I have a 1987 ford 350 when i go up a steep hill the truck starts to skip and break down to a point where I have to pull over i just put in new fuel pump in tank, what could be the problem only happens on hills.
View 11 RepliesI've got a 2003 F350 dually and wanna add more power that won't break the bank. What are some cheap things to do.
View 8 RepliesAre we supposed to put anti sieze on the turbo to pedestal bolts. They were really hard to break loose when I pulled it Cheater bar tight. 18 ft. lbs sound right ?
View 2 RepliesTook my truck in to get the wheel bearings replaced (driver's side was singing pretty loud). Decided to have the ball joints replaced at the same time since they were still original at 133,000. Got the truck back and the steering is just not right. At high speeds it acts like an old F100 wandering back and forth and the steering is pretty tight when you try to correct the wandering. I have taken it back to Ford and had the alignment checked twice.
They adjusted it slightly and "loosened" the stearing gear box. Truck is better at low speeds but still not right at highway speeds. Ford is telling me there is a "break-in" period for the ball-joints. I don't remember my friends F350 having a break-in period when he replaced his ball joints. Truck tracked fine before the work was done. Tie-rod ends also checked out. Truck is a 99 350 CC SRW 8ft bed.
My 2014 Accord i4 CVT has 7000miles and it has acted a little strange ever since I pushed it to 3500rpm at Sport mode and then I maybe abruptly shifted it to Drive mode, at which point it made some whining noise shortly. But don’t get me wrong, acceleration was gentle and I don’t ever beat a car.
Since that incidence, it idles at 1500rpm upon cold start at P and fluctuates between 1000rpm and 1100rpm after it warms up a little bit (still in Park). When on stop (brake) on D, it has slight rough idle that periodically comes and goes, which gets better when the A/C is off but not completely resolves. Acceleration is sluggish and lagging, and it has some “dragging/sluggish” feel on coasting as well. When braking, it takes more effort and brake feels stiffer as if it lacks some break boost. Also, the electric power steering gets heavy/tight (I think this could be more of a sensor/input problem rather than the motor).
All these symptoms come and go together except for the fluctuating idle upon cold start, which is persistent. Gently pushing gas at 1200 rpm for, say 10 seconds, tend to “free” the tight steering wheel, and car starts to act more normally with better coasting and acceleration, and more responsive brake for a while. And problem comes back. Also, turning off the A/C seems to make the car act behave notably better but I am cautious of this point since it is known that Honda’s A/C system really takes away the engine power.
I had the dealer shop check for vacuum leak. The report says “check idle, check idle control, check for vacuum leaks ok, check or any codes, checks ok”, basically saying there is no vacuum leak. But I think it is still possible that they missed something. Dealer shops and some independent shops I visited aren’t so willing to figure out what is going on, and I basically need to ask them “check this and check that”.
I have the 2014 RX350 and backed out of my garage with the door partially open.
It took off the Antenna "fin" which is on the top in the rear. There was a black piece underneath.
Need to determine if the part needs to be replaced or if I can just re-attach? I've included some pictures....
This pass weeks, I noticed something strange with the car, the lag is not as obvious, and the drive is a lot smoother. I also getting better MPG. Up till last few weeks, I was getting about 20 to 21 mpg.. same route now giving me 22 to 23 mpg.
View 11 RepliesI just picked up my new 14 SFS Limited last month love everything about it. On a recent quick trip to the gas station I didnt have the radio on and was just driving in silence and noticed an annoying whirring noise while at a light.
This whirring noise only happens when the car is in drive, and has to be driven just a few meters then when you apply the breaks (at a stop light or stop sign) after 2 seconds a faint whirring noise starts up. When you lift off the breaks the noise goes away but when you apply the break again the noise is replicated.
While driving my 2009 Camry the abs light and break light pop on and the speedometer stops working as well as the tacomitor and the odomitor stops ticking off miles as well, also the ac fan will run but the compressor stops.
View 2 RepliesSometimes it happens at slow speeds too but it's so random that I know it will never do it at the dealer. I can't say "When I take off fast or stop hard it makes a weird sound" it's a lease and they will probably blame me for whatever is wrong. Sometimes the tranny doesn't feel right either. I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD that made a similar sound and it was bushings but this car has only 4,000 miles on it. What should I do?
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