Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Vibrations At Highway Speeds 55 MPH Or Higher
Apr 10, 2015
Lifting 09-13 F-150 with the two piece drive shaft. I am getting a lot of vibrations at highway speeds(55mph or higher). I have a Pro Comp 6 inch lift that was installed while I was stationed in Alaska. I have the drive shaft spacer that goes on the drive shaft at the pinion. I also have a carrier bearing drop kit from BDS that I am currently experimenting with (trying to find the sweet spot). I am at a loss though because my truck is no longer fun to drive. I drive an hour to work one way and it blows that my truck feels as though it will rattle apart. I have tried doing all the research that I can find about this issue.
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I have a 2014 screw 4x4 v8 that has been in the shop 5 times now for something that the dealership can't duplicate, and that is intermittent enough for me that I can't determine what the conditions need to be in order to duplicate it myself.
My transmission will shift hard under two different situations:
1) when rolling through a stop, or a momentary stop at a stop sign, the transmission holds up between 3 and 1, and when I bring the rpms up, the transmission shifts down into 1, making a hard clunk;
2) at highway speeds, more so when using cruise, if I accelerate and the truck shifts down from 6 to 4, there will be a hard shift as well. In fact, when I'm on a long stretch of flat, open road using cruise at 70-75, I can feel a slight bump through the steering wheel and floorboard, as if the cruise is trying to engage the throttle a bit more, but only for a split second. But that will happen quite a few times within a couple miles until I come up on a grade and the throttle has to engage for a bit longer to keep speed. Sometimes, the hard shift will do occur going to 5 as well, but 90% of the time it will be a 6-4 shift. If the truck decides to shift from 6-3, there's no issue and it shifts and accelerates like it should.
Again, this is so intermittent, but when it happens, it happens several times. I've had the service tech ride in the truck with me, all the while not being able to duplicate the issue. I understand that these are learning transmissions, so the only thing I can think of is when I try to duplicate it by accelerating over and over, that the transmission adjusts the shift pattern or fluid pressure to compensate.
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I have a 2010 F150 XLT crew cab, and I'm the second owner. Ever since I have owned the truck, it has had a pretty bad shake/vibration at highway speeds, that gets worse with higher speed. I have checked the alignment multiple times, rotated tires, had them re-balanced, and I still cannot figure out what is causing this. What else should I be checking?
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2008 Passat 45k. No accidents. Towed twice on flatbeds due to bad fuel pump. Tires were rotated every 10k or so.
I'm wondering if there are any suspension (or wheel) issues that can lead to maybe tire wear and a loud oscillating noise. I had factory Goodyear Eagles 235/45-R17's that started to develop a very loud speed-dependent oscillating noise that definitely came from the tires, but I can't tell if it's one tire or more than one. I just had them replaced though I was not quite yet down to the wear indicators. My new Continentals are of course pretty quiet, but occasionally I think I hear very faint oscillations again on certain surfaces at high speed.
I'm worried that I might trash these new tires. I had to have an alignment/balance/rotation at about 30k due to minor steering vibrations at highway speeds. The noise started around 37k and got louder and louder. About this same time I had a flat tire that was immediately repaired; I noticed uneven wear on this flat tire which I attributed to the previous minor alignment/balance problem. I usually find out about any low pressures by the dash light, so I'm pretty sure my tire pressures are usually good. I rotated at 40k with a minor improvement that got bad again after about 1k.
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We have had the 2014 Camry SE for 3 months, 2000 miles, (we also have a 2005 Camry LE) and our first interstate trip is when we noticed it. When we get close to 70 mph and above we hear it. Sounds like some maybe flapping/rubbing? No really metal sounding, maybe plastic? I have checked under the car, do not see anything loose. We first thought it was coming from the storage area in between the seat, but we took everything out and the noise continued. Dead center under the car it sounds like. It does it every time, the same sound.
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2014, IS350 F-Sport owner. Noticed the steering become resistive at higher speeds?
When I drive at freeway speeds (70-80mph) for, say, >10 minutes, I get a very large increase in the resistance in the steering. This is combined with a complete lack of caster response, resulting in very difficult control.
This occurs in all modes, and once it happens I have to come to a complete stop before the steering once again feels normal and the caster response returns.
I've had it in the service dept. since day 4 of owning the car, but no "error code = nothing wrong". They're now trying to convince me that it's supposed to work this way because of VGRS, but I'm calling B.S. on that. The car's handling and performance are decreased at higher speeds; definitely NOT what an F-Sport car is designed to do...
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I've owned this vehicle for the past year. This 2009 Corolla XRS manual has a very annoying steering rattle which took me the whole year to finally breakdown and diagnose. There are many forums stating this rattle is associated with the intermediate shaft assembly #2. I did end up replacing this part 45260-02110, hoping this would fix the rattling or knocking issue. It did not, but smoothness the steering has improved. I removed the upper portion of the intermediate shaft to pinpoint the sound. Originally I believed the noise may have been coming through the bulkhead from the intermediate shaft #1 or steering rack. I checked under the boot and everything was snug. Then I rattled the steering wheel around and this what I found.
It seems the noise is coming from the pinion where the power steering motor meets the steering column. You can hear the knocking noise with settle steering wheel movements. As I move faster, the knock turns into a rattle at higher speeds most likely vibration from the road. At this time, I do not want to disassemble the whole column just to see if I can adjust the motor height (if possible).
YouTube : [URL] ......
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2012 F150 5.0L ... Running the stage 3 motorsports Tune on the SCT X4 device ... Noticed higher gear while going up a hill the motor is Pinging. Running 89 Sunoco fuel for two fill ups in a row and I have the 89 Performance tune loaded. It would not surprise me if the Gas station is selling 87 for the 89 Price!
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2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.
First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.
After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).
No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.
Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.
Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.
Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.
The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.
Quick recap:
6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded
To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.
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When I press slightly on the accelerator just to get the truck moving and than let off the engine stays at the higher RPM typically just over a 1000. This only happens in drive not reverse and everytime I just slightly step on the accelerator. The truck only has 1K miles on it.
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On my 09' passat wagon 2.0t: I've been on a couple of long highway runs and noticed that my steering wheel is vibrating slightly at higher speeds. Naturally I went for a wheel balance. They showed me one rim was slightly bent from a pot hole or something, but they were able to balance it and put it in the rear. Still a vibration. Took it back to the tire shop and they checked the balance again.
At this point I was still noticing the vibration and went so far as to swap the "damaged" wheel with another off of a passat with the same wheels. No difference noticed. Is it my imagination or is the steering so light in these passats that im feeling every imperfection of the road? I don't remember the car always feeling like this. I am at 14k miles and have the crappy stock good year tires.
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I have 18k miles on my IS350 AWD Fsport. Brought it in for shake at highway speeds around 70-80. Dealer called and said steel belts are showing on REAR tires on my ALL Wheel Drive. My mileage is 2/3 highway. Went Hankook Ventus V12s on my 2IS and fronts would wear much faster...
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Getting wind noise from the A pillar drivers side at highway speeds?
I'm getting what I feel is excessive wind noise almost like my window is cracked open. I'm sure this is something the dealer would be able to fix under warranty correct?
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I've had this 2012 for several months now but have never really romped on the throttle until yesterday's road trip (not a lead foot driver).
I was driving on the highway at about 55 when I needed to pass so I floored the throttle and - the truck bucked like a wild horse and the power dropped to a low acceleration. Once I backed off the throttle to about half-way the engine took off like "normal".
These symptoms were repeatable throughout my entire 500 mile trip. Is this a known issue with the EB?
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I'm a converted Chevy man and I don't think my 2011 F150 FX4 is cold enough. I am getting 46 degrees at highway speeds and outside vtemp is 77. My Chevy always get 38-40 in the same situations. What is eveybody getting? Is this normal?
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2010 F150, 165,XXX miles. On a bridge, at highway speed, the transmission locked up and locked the rear wheels. Everyone is OK, but scared the daylights out of my employee and a customer. Bad situation.
After putting it in park, and restarting, it seemed OK. We towed it to the dealership who replaced what I believe was a control chip on the transmission. Dealer said it is a known problem, and they aren't sure if the new controller would fix it?? They would not guarantee if the new controller would prevent the issue (per Ford).
I run a fleet with 7 F150's in it, and this employee is concerned about driving it. I have 3 2010's in the fleet. I am trying to figure out if this is limited to 2010, an incompetent dealer, or?
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 Laredo. For approximately the past 7 months there has been a noise coming from the left rear of the vehicle at speeds above approximately 60 mph. The sound is not metallic in nature, it sounds more like a seat belt flapping against something. The frequency is approximately 2 Hz and is very consistent at highway speeds. The driver can seldom hear it apparently due to interior acoustics, but the someone in the passenger seat or the back seat hears it plainly, over a period of time it is very annoying.
In addition, if you touch the left rear interior side panel (in the cargo area) it seems like you can feel a small vibration that matches the sound. I have had the vehicle inspected by Jeep, they find nothing. I have had the left rear interior panel removed to see if there was a problem with the sound system cable bundle that runs through there, but it was OK. We thought it might be the metal gas tank door vibrating in the wind stream, so we taped the door down, but the sound was not affected. What the source of this sound might be?
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I just purchased my new 2010 F150 CrewCab 4x4. I am getting some jumping in the transmission at low speeds. Idling to travel it seems their is slop in the transmission or drive train. Slow start and stops in traffic its really noticeable. Seems the transmission doesn't know what gear to be in.
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2013 f150 stx with 14,xxx miles. Yesterday all 4 fan speeds worked. Today fan speeds 1-3 do not work, fan speed 4 works fine. This would be the blower motor resistor correct?
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Is this behavior normal: I test drove a 2010 corolla LE with 4-spd auto, 41K miles. Noticed that on level highway 60 mph that whenever I eased up on the gas that the RPMs would shoot down. Vehicle speed was barely decelerating since I was on level. As soon as gas reapplied (gently), then the RPMs would shoot up. I'm guessing the delta was like 300 RPM. I get the impression that at highway speeds the car is mostly in 3rd gear or shifting up and down a lot. I've read a lot about a TSB for 2011 corollas but nothing for 2010. And I think that problem is different. So my question is whether this is "normal" for driving at highway speeds?
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We have had had our Santa Fe for a year, done 38000 km and love it. The car will start up and drive around town fine but as soon as the engine is under load at highway speeds or driving up a hill it loses all power.
In Automatic when this happens the gear will drop back to third. You can switch it over to manual mode and slowly accelerate back up to around 80-90km/hour with your foot flat to the floor but the rpm don't get above around 2000 to 3000.
If you stop and turn the engine off for a minute or so, when you start again everything will appear to back to normal but after another minute or two the problem will be back. The engine malfunction light comes on and sometime it's flashing but at other times it's constant.
The car's been in at our local Hyundai dealer for a week but at this stage they still can't quite figure out the exact cause of the problem. The code they pulled out suggested it was the exhaust particulate filter (apparently quite an expensive part) so they replaced that but it didn't fix it. They've also replaced the fuel filter and some temperature sensors that are part of the particulate filter apparently but still no joy.
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