My daughters 2009 ford escape will turn over fine but won't start. Hooked up code reader and it read p0690. I am trying to get a feel for what this really is. It seems to me a spark or fuel issue but that is not part of that code from what've read.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2010 f150 and it came with the single button remote start. I've been reading lots of posts about remote start but none with my issue. Mine when you push the button the horn beeps, ignition comes on, the seat slides forward, then the horn beeps just one time again, and it just sits there with the radio playing and not running. Everyone else is getting a 3 beep error code and I'm getting just the one beep.
View 10 Repliesred dash light comes on after 1 km, most times. dealer says abs module but no abs light or codes
brakes are fine
I have absolutely loved my 2011 F-150 8 cyl since I bought it in 2013. I'm just now having my first issue...
For the past two weeks or so, I've had an issue with intermittently hard starting. It cranks like normal but doesn't turn over instantly. The longest its gone before starting has been about six seconds. Although originally happening only 10% of the time, its happening about 40% of the time over the past couple days. I had my mechanic take a look and the battery and starter all checked out fine.
Biggest problem was that it never did it for them making it hard for them to trouble-shoot. Thus far its always started, just takes an indescript amount of time in which to do it. The time of day doesn't seem to matter although afternoons in which I'm heading to lunch after being in the office for 3-4 hours seems the most common time.
RE: FORD PROBE GL (non-turbo). Last week suddenly car wouldn't start Thurs. night. Cranked but would not turn over. Heard click at ignition switch area when key turned to start position. (Although I could only hear one click from inside the vehicle with windows shut, I was told that clicks audible under the hood from standing outside.) Tried jump starting (from a good battery using proper connections) unsuccessfully, repeated tries several minutes apart, allowing longer and longer time to charge. About every third attempt, instead of cranking sounds, I would get silence, with only the click audible.
Temperatures decreased from approximately 50s to 20s when symptoms began.Battery is old but tests good/replace soon: 330+ CCA at 43 degrees, original rating CCA 530 (silver battery now at 7 years. Will replace, but garage did not have required size 56). At that point, the amps gauge read at the low end of the normal range (and today it read mid-way in the normal range).Had car towed to garage on Friday. Mechanic looked at on Saturday and decided it was the inertia switch, which he said had "tripped".I watched video for technicians on inertia switch but it shows on newer Fords. Mine is not located at the kick panel and does not have a red button on top. I am not certain from my experience whether the reset button would actually be in a different position when tripped or he merely surmised that is what had happened, despite my telling the shop manager that I had not so much as bumped a curb. Also, the trunk was not slammed or even opened prior to the car not starting.
Car presumably started fine at mechanic when they pulled it into the garage to put air in tires and back out to the lot, as well as when I started it to drive home on Sunday. However, on Tuesday it would not start. Just in case, I depressed inertia switch reset and tried cranking again several times, giving it some gas, until I was actually pumping it vigorously in desperation as a last resort (several seconds turning key each time), and on about the 5th try, the engine began to catch just as I was releasing the key. Reset the inertia switch one more time (just in case), and after a couple more attempts, it finally started, but when I was going in reverse to back out and then putting in gear to start out in first gear, for about 15 seconds total, I heard a bizarre loud, fairly high-pitched whistle/whine type of sound that seemed to come from under the hood coming through the central area of the dash where the radio is located.
Drove about 5 miles to my job, and about 2 hours later was able to start the car on the first try. Lately usually driven relatively short distances of 2-4 miles, with a longer drive of 11 miles broken up into 6 miles + 5 miles on the return trip the night before this started happening.
This 97 F150 4.2 is new to me, originally a very base 2wd white fleet vehicle, with 189,000 miles, runs smoothly and quietly, idles well, transmission shifts smoothly. Gets reasonable gas mileage.
Problem statement: the truck has an intermittent starting problem. The failure to start happens about 5-10% of the time. The motor will turn over fine, but but immediately stumbles while trying to start. Turn key off and then re-start attempt will be again followed by a bucking stumble. Some times the motor might try and run for 2-3 seconds bucking and stumbling. It is possible the problem happens more often when the truck is warm and has been shut off for 15 minutes or so. Once the problem happens it is very repeatable. It won't start again unless I wait about 30 minutes to an hour. Once it starts it seems to run very nicely. I have noticed some times when I go to successfully start the truck it might run roughly for the first 3-4 seconds bucking and sputtering a bit and then smooth out and not have an issue until the next re-start attempt.
The truck runs so nicely when it is running I doubt it is an issue with the plugs, air filter general tune up. Could it be an intermittent fuel pump issue? The next time it occurs I will check fuel pressure. Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Also tested by fuel pressure. ECU? The truck runs very nicely most of time that seems like a long shot. Crank sensor? Bad fuel? I did add some dry gas.
Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
View 2 RepliesMy daughter's 1998 Saturn S-series will not start. It will turn over fine but will not fire until I shoot some starter fluid down the intake. Then it fires up and runs fine. It consistently will not crank unless I shoot the starter fluid to it. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when I turn the switch on. The Saturn dealer says it may be the ECM but I have my doubts. The ECM will cost my $800 from Saturn.
View 14 RepliesI just bought a 2002 Jetta 2.0L with automatic trans and about 98000 miles on the odometer.It drove fine on a short test drive. It drove fine on a 45 min drive home after which I parked it for a short while (about an 60-90 mins.) Then I tried to restart it . It cranked fine but would not start. After 3 or 4 attempts I let it rest for a min and then it started. And the CEL came on.
This was a few days ago. Today I finally got a chance to scan it with these results:
VCDS Version: Release 15.7.3 Running on Windows 7 x86
[URL] .....
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AVH.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 FR
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V G 4070
Software Coding: 00003
[Code] ....
I'm new to MK4's and I'm at a bit of a loss as to where to start. It looks to me like there's a problem with both the fuel pump relay and the crank sensor. But what to make of all the short to ground codes. Could they be caused by a bad fuel pump relay?
Will not start. Engine turns over fine. Have electric to lights, radio, everything but the fuel pump, coil and fuel gauge. Ignition switch and fuel pump check out okay. Checked fuses, okay. Vehicle has an add on after market remote start/security system, has been working fine for years.
View 1 RepliesWhat is the code for an FX4 is? Reason I ask is when I go online to Ford dealer inventory listing it shows something like "F150 4X4 SS S/C" but I don't see anything like "FX4."
View 1 RepliesOver the course of the last week my '09 has become increasingly difficult to turn while at lower rpm. When going through a drive thru or backing out of the driveway it sometimes feels like there's no power steering. -especially when tuning right. Checked her out, nothing leaking, though the hi pressure steering line does appear to be wet near the connections. Rack boots appear a little damp too but are still in tact and fully functional.
View 4 RepliesHaving trouble with the radio in their truck? When I started my truck today my radio would not turn on, no AM/FM, CD player, Suris or Aux input. It does not matter what buttons you press. The sync will not work and none of the controls for sync.
The display said Ford Tough then the temperature was displayed, but the clock was flashing on and off. There was no pattern to the clock flashing on and off it could flash once or twice then nothing for minute or two then flashes once to 4 times then nothing. I tried a hard reset by disconnecting the battery for over 15 minutes but it made no difference.
Ok so I have a 2014 F-150 Screw fX4 with the projector headlights. 13356.0 km as I sit in it. I had turn signals the other day, but now none. I had the dealer disable the lamp outage to remove the hyper flash issue with led's. Sockets don't look burnt or anything everything is new. So here is what is working.
- mirrors turn indicators
- rear turn signals
- dash turn signals.
I have reinstalled my OEM bulbs and still have the issue, only my running lights are on the front. So it has power.
I just bought this truck 2 weeks ago, and it's been great till yesterday coming home from church when I couldn't get the wipers to turn off. I had them on very lowest intermittent setting, and then turned them off when it stopped raining. But every few seconds the wipers are still making a pass! The truck is an XL model, so it shouldn't have the rain-sensing wipers, should it? If it does, then where is the sensor, and is there a way to disable that feature? But the goofy part is that when I got in it this morning to go to work, it was fine.
I turned the wipers on intermittent again for a little bit to get rid of residual rainfall from overnight, and they worked fine. It's worked fine all day. I thought about calling the dealer back where I bought it from to see if there was anything they would do to warranty this seeing as I just took delivery 2 weeks ago, but never did. I figured if it's not going to replicate the problem, then they're not going to be able to fix anything. They won't know what to fix if they can't physically see what it's doing. The Ford dealer I bought this truck at is about 90 minute drive, so I would probably need to take a day off work sometime this week to deal with that. Another reason why I hesitated to call them.
I'm referring to my red beast, the 2012 F-150 XL 4x4, 3.7 V6/auto. Like I said, this truck shouldn't have the rain-sensing wipers should it? Not being the XL model? If so, where is the sensor(s) located at? Because the only water I could see on the glass was off to the sides, out of the reach of the wiper blades. As I scroll through the settings on the Information Center between the gauges, I don't see anything to activate/deactivate rain-sensing wipers. Is there a way to disable that, if I have that feature? Are these trucks common for multi-function switches going bad?
I used to have a Dodge truck back in the 90's, and musta' replaced about 3 of them in that stupid truck! In the 4 years I had it!! I'm afraid of a repeat experience in which I'm chasing down electrical issues for the next 10 years.
Vehicle has a vibration most prevalent when cold during a left turn especially first thing in the morning. Feels kinda like 4x4 is on, but its not.
Tech test-drove it and tells me it needs "clutch packs".
Has changing clutch packs to address this issue, and did it correct problem?
If I let him change them, am I in danger of screwing anything else up in the process?
& what the fuxa clutch pack anyway?
I understand why the electric fan kicks on when it does, but it seems that there is no reason for it come on at times. (For example, after sitting all day at work, climbing into it and starting. The temp gauge still reading well below operating temp, fan comes on.
And side note, this has got to be one of the loudest electric cooling fans I have ever heard. Sounds like a turboprop pulled up beside me for take off.... Should I investigate further (thermostat, Fan relay, etc) or is this pretty normal.
I have a 2011 ecoboost with 69000 miles and I am starting to get the dreaded P0016 code along with the occasional P0299. I am almost done making payments on it but I am hesitant about sinking the kind of money that it takes to repair the timing issues. SO the big question, is it worth keeping and making the repair or should I trade it and get a new 2016??
View 12 RepliesI recently bought an 09 Ford F150 Fx4 and didn't get the door code from the owner. I looked and found what I think is the door lock control module above the fuse panel but the only 5 digit code doesn't unlock the door. What I can do the get the code?
View 7 RepliesMy truck ('10 4x4 w/5.4l, 65k miles) gave a P2096 this past weekend. Cleared it and drove around for a while. Today it threw the same code. No other codes present, just P2096.
I did look under the truck and it seems pretty easy to get to the two sensors. Is it worth swapping them to see if the code changes to the other side?
Truck idles and accelerates just fine. Fuel mileage seems to be down a bit, but the air filter is very dirty and I will be replacing that this week.
I have seen you can check the sensor by heating it and measuring the voltage. Seems easy enough to do, but do you create other problems from that?
I did notice that the connector to the mass air flow sensor is cracked, probably from checking the air filter. I would think if that was the issue it would be showing some MAF code.