Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Turn Indicator Noise Is Annoyingly Loud
Jun 30, 2012
The turn indicator is annoyingly loud? Does the small speaker under the dash make all the tones for dash functions, including the blinker noise? I'm tempted to put a piece of sound deadening foam over that little sucker.
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Driving the wife's 150 EB today and is it just me or is the noise made by the turn signal relay really loud??
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I have an issue that popped up on my 2012 F-150 today. I was driving a bit today and when I returned home and shut the truck off I noticed that the right turn signal indicator stayed faintly illuminated. None of the lights outside are affected, and they all work normally, just that the indicator on the dash is staying lit.
The only thing I can see is that last week I smashed up the drivers side mirror and it busted the lens off of the LED lights in the mirror and 1 LED bulb is exposed. It did rain a bit today but I figured it would short out and blow a fuse if anything.
I will undo the negative battery cable tomorrow and see if it will reset, if not I will have te dealer check it out when I drop it off to have the roof reprinted next week.
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I have a 2010 ford f150 with a 4.6 engine. it has developed a loud noise like a diesel on steroids and also sounds like its going to fly apart and it also misses when it does this . now this is how I have narrowed it down to make it happen because it does not do it all the time. it mainly does it to and from longer trips like 45 minutes or more then coming into traffic to a crawl or idle it will start making the noise . also when I pull into my drive and go from drive to reverse and go to back up it will also make the noise. I have no lights on the dash or codes. could this be a coil pack ? I had a coil go a few years back but it acted up under load on a hill and just missed with no noise.
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Today I was out getting lunch in my Ecoboost When it started making an extremely loud grinding noise from the front end of the truck. My first thought was I blew a turbo. After holding the break and building boost I discovered it was not the source of the noise. Also the truck runs perfect and there is no smoke. I then took it to my friends auto shop and pulled both front tires off to check and see if anything break related came loose. We found nothing. The noise only happens upon acceleration or cruising throttle, as soon as you let off the sound goes away. So after I found nothing I took it to ford and what would cause that, but they assured me that they would have my truck for a long time while they figure out the issue.
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2012 F150 6.2L V8... I am at a loss and I know that loud knocking is not a good sign. Two days ago my truck's low oil pressure light started coming on and off, so I pulled over and immediately turned my truck off. I called a friend at a Ford dealership and he asked a mechanic what I should do. He said it could be something as simple as low oil, bad oil sending unit or maybe something serious. So, he said check my oil level if low top it off and see if that fixes the problem. It was low and I topped it off, but the light kept doing the same thing.
Here's my dilemma; my truck wasn't making ANY noises (knocking, whining, etc...), 2 days later which was yesterday I was en route to get new oil/oil filter changed and 24 miles later I'm in a turning Lane and it dies! Will not start, but it tried, so I did not try anymore. I was able to get it into a parking lot and left it for about 4 hours and went to check on it and it started right up and that is when the knocking noise started. I turned it off and checked the oil and the level reads full...
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Just had my 2010 F150 in for a loud knocking noise when the truck has warmed up in drive and rpm up to about 800. I can't hear the noise when I disconnect the passenger side vtc selonoid. The Tech who worked on it has recommended replacing the motor. His troubleshooting on the ticket says he removed the coil from the number 4 cylinder and the noise he hears goes away. I just can't see that the motor is bad.
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Whenever Im driving at slower speeds - parking lots, side streets, etc I get a squeaking/squelching sound coming from somewhere in the front end of the truck. I thought at first it may have been a rattling heat shield someplace under the truck, but now Im not so sure. No loss of power, check engine light, or anything of that nature has occurred so Im not sure what to do. Its a 2010 Ford F150 XLT 4wd ....
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If I'm stopped and turn the wheel for a hard left turn I hear a clunking noise and the check engine light comes on, will be taking in to the dealer on Mon.
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I have 2010 f150 when I turn my steering wheel all the way in one direction and I press the gas from a dead stop like at a stop sign it makes sound like metal rubbing together slit vibration with shaking(like the back wheels having a hard time keeping up) from the back end. i took it to a shop they look at it. They took apart the transfer case and re-lubed what was in side told me it should go away in a couple of days. I live in winter climate when it's below freezing it works no problem without any sounds.
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How to get the gear indicator lights to stay on? I can do it manually but it has to be every time I restart the motor. I think it completes the instrument cluster with it one.
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I have a 2011 F-150 with the center console shift lever. I mainly drive the truck during the day so it's possible I never notice this but do the gear indicators illuminate when the lights are on? I happened to look down when I put the truck in gear and noticed that the selector has a red light showing its position but it was really hard to see what gear you have selected.
Normally I just pull it down until I hit D, knowing it clicks 3 times, and I'm off. If you do happen to go into M then you see it on the dash. So I don't know if I've never noticed it or if I have a burned out bulb and its no longer lit up. It's not a big deal but I always like to replace burnt out dash lights just so it looks good but I don't know the answer to this one.
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I purchased a used 2012 F-150 Lariat in April, has 46,000 miles on it. I think the 3-year bumper-to-bumper expired about 2 weeks ago.
I know I've seen the heated mirror indicator light come on before, but I have not needed to use it much since April. The light would not come on today - I don't know if the mirrors actually got heated or not. I really did not need to use them, but wanted to see if it would remove the condensation from sitting outside over night.
Is it possible that the heated mirror would not come on because its too warm ? (i.e., 47 F in my case) For the first time ever, I used the power sliding rear window last night - is it possibly related to that ? Maybe its not fully closed ?
Is it possibly just a burned out bulb ? Or maybe a 'fuse' I can check ?
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I bought a used 2011 ford f150 crew cab lariat. I love it!! 5.0 liter, towing package. I notice that when I turn on the headlights, there is no indication on the display that they are on ! When I put it on high beam, I see the blue light icon on the display.
2. Another question, it has the headed mirror option, but I can't find any control that turns this on. Is this automatically controlled??
3. One more. It doesn't have daylight running lights and when I leave the headlights on and exit the vehicle, the headlight stay on! There is an auto delay digital switch on the display but I think that only applies to how long the headlight stay on when exiting the vehicle and the light switch is on auto. I am confused about the light setting on the truck.
The truck only has 24k on it so is still under bumper to bumper warranty.
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Just got my 2011 Ecoboost FX4 on June 15th. For most of the time I had it, the in-dash LCD showed the 6 gears (on the right side of the display) for the trans & highlighted which gear it was in at any time (in Automatic mode, not select-shift). It disappeared & I can't figure out how to get it back?????? Nothing is listed in the manual.
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Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
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So today was the hottest day I've encountered, since purchasing my '13, FX4, EcoBoost. It was 91 degrees out, which I know isn't THAT hot for some parts of the country.
That said, it's the first time since I've owned my '13, EcoBoost that I needed to use A/C all day. One thing I noticed is that the A/C fans are EXTREMELY loud.
The noise outside seems louder than an early 6.0 Powerstroke idling, or say even the 7.3 PSD. Sounds like a 747 taking off.
Is this normal or is something wrong with my truck? If I turn the A/C off, the super loud fan turns off, and the low speed fan for what I assume is the radiator keeps on, but is barely heard.
I don't remember the A/C fan being that loud on my previous truck '11, 5.0, XLT, but it had more equipment, and the engine wasn't as quiet as my EcoBoost now, which is almost silent.
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I have a 2010 F150 with the 4.62v. I bought it new in March '11 and have used either MC 5w20 or Pennzoil 5w20 and MC filters, changing every 5k since new. When cold (30deg F or below) the right side has a loud ticking, until it has run for approx 1 minute. Since it is a 2v, cam phasers should not be a part of the problem. What the issue could be. It has just over 36k now, so the powertrain warranty should still be valid.
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I bought a 2009 F-150 King Ranch a few months back. It has 125k miles on it and the only aftermarket thing on it is some larger tires. I love the truck but twice now (at two totally different driving instances) I have started hearing this bad sounding tap in the engine. The majority of the time it has ONLY been when I am in drive or reverse. I can especially hear it if I am going through a drive through. Anyways as I was backing into a parking space today it started making an even louder tapping sound. I recorded it and have provided the link to youtube..
It continued to make this terrible sound until I revved it slightly and then it went back to normal idle. This all started as I was in reverse backing up but this is the first time it has continued even into neutral. Really hoping for not terrible news on this. Ive read about the cam phaser issue and nothing has been done to those yet. It is the 5.4L and a 4x4. How to fix this and not have a clunker for a truck...
Here is the link to the youtube video of the truck running... it was too large to be uploaded on here : [URL] .....
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I've owned a 2014 Prius Four (not IV, Roman numerals were for model year 2010) w/o Nav for just about a year now. I've encounter this mysterious condition three times now where when I turn on my car, all I see on the front displays are the READY light on the far left and the mini-display that shows the shift pattern.
* Both the speedometer/fuel gauge display on the left of the shift pattern display and the "Hybrid status" display on the right of the shift postion display are OFF.
* The car operates normally (it's not in a limp-home mode).
When I first encountered this issue and reported it to my local dealer, they suggested I take a video of it with my smartphone. I did so the car (and a copy of the video) is now at the dealership.
The second and third times this issue came up, I took videos and did some additional testing.
- When these two displays are OFF, there is no backlight to the climate control LED display underneath the stereo...
- I normally drive the car with the headlamps in "AUTO" mode. When you shift the headlamp switch to "DRL off", the two missing displays automatically power on. In any other position (Auto, corner marker lamps only, or headlamps ON position) the two displays in question turn off.
- The issue isn't with me accidentally turning the dimmer switch too low. When the dimmer switch is set to max low and the dash light sensor is covered (emulating complete darkness outside), all three displays on the dash (including the shift position display) are barely visible/look off. As the service advisor saw in my video, that's not the case.
This is clearly a safety issue ("you cannot tell how fast you are going" and "you cannot tell easily how much gas you have left without going through the infotainment display) so for now the dealership at least seems to be on my side in that something needs to be repaired. The good news is that now that the issue has been documented in my service history, they did comment that it will get fixed eventually even if the issue comes back after test. For now, the dealership is stumped so they asked Toyota for guidance on what parts to try replacing.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla, and the door open indicator will intermittently turn on and off. I isolated the problem to the trunk, and unplugged the trunk latch assembly so that the trunk dome light doesn't drain my battery. Before I unplugged it, my key fob could open the trunk remotely. I can still manually open my trunk using a key or the lever next to the drivers seat. Is there something on the latch assembly that I can check if it's triggering?
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