Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Turbo Surging When Cruising Along And Just Slightly Give A Little More Gas
Feb 9, 2012
Occasionally, under the right conditions, my turbo seems to surge...meaning I can hear, and feel the turbo kick in and out...kinda like it is right on the threshhold of not knowing if it needs to kick in out not. This usually only happens when I'm cruising along and just slightly give it a little more gas. Otherwise it seems fine...plenty of power etc. What could be going on here...just the nature of the beast??
My truck is a 2011 F150 Eco Screw 4by....
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My 2006 expedition surges very slightly while cruising under very low throttle. Usually most noticeable at 60-65 mph with no headwind.
Took it in and had my mechanic check it out. He confirmed the slight surge and said it felt like the torque converter was locking and unlocking. No codes or pending codes were found related to the power train.
Abs light is on for a bad rear wheel speed sensor. Code for right rear. Checking the sensor showed 3 ohms for right, 5 ohms left ( left is less than a year old on a new wheel bearing.)
Initial thought was the bad sensor is giving bad input confusing the pcm/tcm. But the condition remains with the sensor unplugged.
Driving down the road watching the tach, it does appear that the converter is not staying locked. Condition goes away with more throttle. Motor runs smoothly otherwise with no indications of misfire. Plugs have 50k miles on them, as does the transmission fluid. Fluid is red and smells fine. Never gotten hotter than 210 by the gauge in the pressure port.
Why would it lock/unlock at very low throttle, but lock tight with more throttle? Tps flaking out? Throttle body motor getting twitchy? Can I pull my popup to the hills this weekend?
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Been having a very light vibration when cruising at speed as well as on some lower speed shifts and finally crawled under the truck today to check for drivetrain play. Other than the amazingly soft and sloppy transmission mount I noticed a TON of play in the driveshaft transmission yolk. Didn't feel like the u-joint but actually the tailshaft yolk. Dealer said on the phone they have seen this on a few of the newer trucks and it *should* be covered under the power train warranty. I have the subercab with the 1 piece aluminum driveshaft.
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The other day my father and I were driving around town in my pickup, he kept looking in the side view mirror and finally he told me he thought that my bed was not exactly in-line with my cab. When we got to our destination we both got out and looked, and sure enough the bedside protrudes maybe 1/2 a centimeter out on the passenger side where the bed meets with the cab.
This isn't really a great big deal, I mean I've owned this truck for just a hair over two years now and I never noticed, That's how unnoticeable it really is. And do you think this is worth taking it to the dealer for?
I mean, I feel like I'm being a stickler here...It's not noticeable unless you are really looking hard for it as in staring directly down the length or the pickup, and even then the bed looks lined up except for the slight protrusion on the passenger side.
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2014 F150 3.5 Ecoboost...
I recently got my oil changed at the dealership and yesterday when I did my periodic oil check, I noticed that the oil level is slightly higher than the "high" mark on the dipstick. Its about 4mm above the high line, maybe 5mm at most. I do not smell gas in the oil, and given that its been about a month since the change, I simply think that slightly too much oil was added.
My question is will a slight overfill like that affect this engine? I'm particularly worried about "frothing" of the oil by the crankshaft. I don't think that oil level is nowhere near to be "pushed" by pistons and affect my seals. Correct me if I'm wrong here. I drive on very flat terrain. So the question to those that have knowledge on how much clearance there is between the crankshaft and oil level in that engine is, do I leave as is or go back to the dealer to adjust. (Reason I ask is because I'm particularly busy with a project at work, and if I don't have to burn time to correct this I would rather not given my busy schedule.)
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I have a 2009 F150 4x4, XLT crew 6.5' bed, 5.4 engine. The truck has a very strange erratic throttle behavior from a dead stop through low speeds, shifting seems very strange at low speeds too.
Dealer tried re-flashing the computer, but that didn't fix it. They talk about some valve that sounds to me like it's similar to an EGR function, but I cant remember what he called this valve. He explained the issue as exhaust gasses that are to be recirculated and burned, but the valve is opening at the wrong time, or stuck open or something so it feeds the fire so to speak.
Does any of this sound typical or common? Is this something that's hopefully easier to do than a spark plug change on a 5.4?
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This engine really puts out the ponys. it tows ok but not like my diesel. The twin turbo does not get the claimed fuel economy. And now the start up rattle. I seem to be getting the run around on the repair.
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2012 3.5 EcoBoost is a twin turbo or single?
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When I press slightly on the accelerator just to get the truck moving and than let off the engine stays at the higher RPM typically just over a 1000. This only happens in drive not reverse and everytime I just slightly step on the accelerator. The truck only has 1K miles on it.
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I have a 2011 XLT 5.0 V8 with 133,260 miles. I have extended warranty for the next 12,000 miles...which is great because I drive about 400 miles a month... Anyhow it runs great but for one small issue (hopefully) that has been intermittent.
She likes to idle slightly rough in drive at a stop or very low speed, and in reverse at slow speed. If I don't maintain the RPM it will stall and the low oil pressure light will come on, which I imagine comes on because of the sudden stall.
I first noticed this while backing into my garage in the driveway, It would fluctuate in RPMs and if I didn't maintain the gas it would shut off. I took it to the dealer and all they were able to tell me was the Tranny fluid was low and it would cause it to shut off at incline because a sensor isn't detecting fluid in the tranny. I thought this was weird but being as I have never owned an F150, I didn't know better.
It was fine for a little over a month and it started doing it again at stop lights and backing into my driveway. It has become frequent but there is no issue driving at speed and on the freeway. There is no stuttering or shaking and if it weren't for the fluctuating RPM at a stop and the stalling, it would be hard to tell if there was an issue.
All I can note is that there is a clicking sound under the hood, if I remember correctly the last time this happened I was at a 1/4 tank of fuel like I am now, I also feel like it may be a throttle body issue, or some sort of air sensor, I plan on taking it to the dealer but I figure I would get a more informed answer on the forums.
I also hear this is a common issue with the 5.0s... I purchased the truck in December and since then I have only put 250 miles on it.
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I just had a Viper 5704 2 way paging remote start alarm installed on my 2012 Fx4 Ecoboost and when the installer ran the wires from the inside of the cab through the firewall he went through the hole that the rubber grommet was in just to the left of the brake pedal. Instead of going through the grommet/plug, he pulled it out and ran the wires beside it and now the rubber plug will not seal and I can hear turbo/engine noise in the cab. Has alarm installed on a 2010 or newer F150 with this same layout and if so where did the installer run the wires through the firewall? Should I have them pull the wires out and run them through the center of the grommet like they should have done or have them make a slit in the rubber from the edge to the center (radius cut) and make the best seal possible?
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So me wife has put on about 7000 miles on her new tdi. It's a dsg, 2012. We brought it in for some warranty work and oil change at 600miles.
She is having bucking forward and back issues in the morning and after the car has sat for a while. When you go to accelerate light throttle it literally jerks forward and back and moves you in your chair when shifting first to second.
Dealer said no codes no updates nothing. I know the dsg is clunky normally but it literally jerks us back and forth in the seat 2 to 3 times or more.
Also when on the highway it surges up and down when cruising 70 to 75 like wind is blowing the car with steady throttle.
I told dealer last visit to reset the dsg gearbox as my wife did 70%traffic driving the first 4000miles. Now it's 90% highway.
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Still chasing a surge for some time while cold, mainly. While hot and cruising 65 mph the turbo still surges faintly.. but today was a different story, very fast and high surging from the turbo only, while on overdrive as usual. It calmed down as i dropped the boost a bit but it was quick swings of about 3-5 psi which is quite bad for what it had been doing which was manageable.
Short of taking off the turbo, I took out the VGT solenoid and it had some oil burnt on the end, cleaned that up and pushed the plunger in all the way a few times and it 'seemed' to have worked greatly, until today.
I pulled some other numbers;
KOEO
Map 13.7
EBP 14.1
Baro 28.2
Cold Idle
Map 14.0
EBP 16.5
Baro 28.2
When cold, mainly below 130F the RPM gauge itself will surge or hesitate around 1700-2000 RPM. Any higher or lower it will be smoother I suppose....
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I have a 06 f350 with 5.4 140k miles. Recently it has been shaking bad on idle but only in gear and it's hard to start when cold. The exhaust is moist at all times and the fluids never leak. When you floor it it hesitates feels like it's overly rich but if you let off a little it stars to pull again. Also while cruising at 1500-1700 rpms in any gear it will surge and skip. Only time it will miss and the CEL comes on is over 4000 rpms for a random misfire. Just put new coils in new fuel pump and filter. There has always been a cat code but it never effected the drivability. Could it be injectors?
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I was wondering about same turbo problems that I'm having? When running in cruze only at 55-60mph the turbo will surge from 2-12 psi up and down repeatedly. It sometimes will level out for a couple seconds and then continues to do it. I had it to the dealer and the service manager drove it and said it seems like it's searching for something, but since there was nothing from ford about it he couldn't do anything about it. There was an update for a prior serial number but my truck has the current software. What kind of damage is this going to do. It sucks because alot of my driving is at this speed.
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While I'm in the engine troubleshooting the AC system, I figured I may as well get into a few other issues I've noticed.
I have a stock 1.8T and my turbo feels like it's surging occasionally. A few months ago my diverter valve started making the "blow off sound" when I shifted (manual transmission).
Is it possible for a faulty diverter valve to dump the boost overboard and cause the turbo, and engine hp, to surge? It almost feels like I let my foot off the gas for a second or two (i.e., engine power is very peaky).
A second thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter. I know VW does not recommend ever changing it so it's never been done. Is this a possibility as well?
Air filter is clean, by the way. There's a K&N washable one in the stock air box and I can see daylight through it so it's not too dirty.
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Got a strange one here. 1995 Buick Park Avenue, supercharged 3800, 159K miles... an older car, but an unmolested one. A little over a week ago I began to notice an occasional miss when cruising along at highway speeds, along with a slightly rougher idle. Both the fuel filter and the plugs/wires predated my ownership of the car (a little more than 6 months); so seeing no obvious culprit, I replaced them and hoped for improvement.
Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.
As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.
I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.
On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.
I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.
Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.
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I just bought a 98 passat 1.8t manual trans, its has 105k on it now, I am having a problem with the turbo surging. I am running about 17 psi however every now and then i can put it to the floor and my boost gauge will jump from 12-17 just back and forth, I also have a prob every now and then where it will only build 4 psi and stay there i can down shift take my foot on and off the gas and still no change then just all of a sudden 17 again both these probs are intermittent looked briefly at vacuum lines.
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Check engine and tcs light came on solid. Rough idling and rpm fluctuations while cruising. Brought it to toyota and they scanned it revealing a P2195 code: bank 1 air fuel sensor stuck lean. So what I'd like to know is; How long was the vehicle in the shop? What is involved in repairing this problem?
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Just bought a used 2012 IS-F 1-owner with 37k miles. Clean Carfax and AutoCheck - very, very clean car.
Test drove it with my wife, fell instantly in love, and signed the paperwork. As part of the dealer delivery, they gave a full tank of gas and washed/waxed the car.
While enjoying the 8 mile drive home in 5:00 traffic, regular speeds of 40-50 mph without any start/stop on the freeway and surface roads, I noticed that the range (distance to empty) on the full tank was only 169 miles!
I realize this is a hi performance V8 - but c'mon! Is there something wrong with the car?
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On my way home from work tonight cruising on the highway, heard a loud thump followed by continuous thumps thereafter. Knowing this wasn't good pulled over to find a nice big nail in my passenger side front tire, great. thought I could make it home, I was about 6 exits away...one exit later nail flew out and tire was loosing air.
- luckily for me, I had a friend who lived nearby the exit the nail flew off and put on the spare.... now my question is I noticed some camber wear on the tire.. 15,200 miles to be exact on the stock oem bridgestones.
- I know these tires are complete crap but... is this camber wear normal? I've seen other posts about it but, is it the tires? or something to do with the car? I am pretty sure my alignment is fine. If I buy a new set of tires eventually will this end up happening again? Trying to gain some knowledge for the future.
Also is it true that with AWD cars, if you change one tire you have to change all 4? because it might mess up the drivetrain or something, at least that's what I was told.
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