When speeds are 40-50 mph range and then back off a bit to get back up to speed it reacts very slow. Will get up to highway speeds on an easy acceleration, but when I try to get back up to speeds quickly or catch up then truck is sluggish and slow to react. Was told it may be a stretched drivetrain? Is that possible?
View 5 RepliesExperiencing sluggish throttle response on the EFI Ecoboost? I have had several incidents where I'm needing to change lanes fast and the response is a dead second or two before the motor catches up to the throttle position. Then, it rockets forward at full throttle to catch up. By that time it's too late to change lanes and I have to be on the brakes hard to keep from rear ending the guy in front of me. I'm coming from a carburetored Toyota Tacoma that was far more responsive (minus the power) then this truck. I never felt hesitant to jump on it and go. Now I feel like my life depends on waiting until I have all day to change lanes, make a left turn or pass a slow moving vehicle on a two lane road. Is this something the dealer can adjust?
View 14 RepliesI just purchased a 2013 FX4 with a 3.5 Ecoboost and it seems to start strange compared to other vehicles I have owned. With this truck when you hit the key (warm or cold engine) it sounds like the engine turns over for maybe 1-2 seconds before firing where other vehicles I have owned pop right off starting almost instantly.
Is this typical of the Ecoboost motor? I asked the dealer I purchased it from (large used truck dealer, but not a ford shop) and they said that they all do that...seems odd.
If the selector switch is in 2WD, should the front wheels spin freely if they are off the ground? In other words, should I be able to spin the wheels and they have at least one revolution from the force of the spin?
The reason I ask is that I'm hearing a "whirring" noise at slow speeds in 2WD. When switching to AWD mode, the whirring gets louder. I don't hear the normal clunk/click while it engages/disengages. I suspect, the hubs are engaged somehow.
I jacked up the front end so the front wheels were off the ground. Neither will spin (even allowing for slight friction from the brake pads). To make the front wheels rotate, I have to put a lot of force and there is a lot of resistance. My gas mileage is also dropping.
Ever since my last oil change, I've been having this low whirring or moaning sound at slow speeds (below 30mph). Switching the dial from 2WD to AWD, the moaning noise increases as if it engaging AWD; then it decreases. When switching back to 2WD, the sound doesn't go away. Other times, I don't hear this moaning sound and I hear/feel a very slight clunk.
It's like my truck is always in AWD and won't disengage. When I took the truck to the dealer, the service manager was with me and heard this noise, but when the 4x4 tech drove it, of course it acted perfect. Apparently, they had engaged/disengaged the AWD/2WD so many times that the 2WD/4WD appeared to work. The guy said, oh what you're hearing is normal, lets get back to the shop. My mileage is also dropping - another indicator being in AWD.
The dash panel always shows the electronic shift as successful. I know it engages while I'm driving because I sometimes hear/feel a slight clunk and then the roaring as if I'm in 4WD.
I have a 2010 F150 5.4 with 43k miles. When approaching traffic lights or making a turn and you are approaching idle speeds the truck will start to stall out then ultimately shut off, causing me to loose all functions. It has cause my wife to almost get into a couple of major crashes. Sometimes when trying to start it back up it acts like it is not getting any gas it just keeps turning over. I took it in and it could not be diagnosed because they could not duplicate the problem. This will happen for a couple of days and then be fine for a month or two then start right back at it.
View 2 RepliesWhenever Im driving at slower speeds - parking lots, side streets, etc I get a squeaking/squelching sound coming from somewhere in the front end of the truck. I thought at first it may have been a rattling heat shield someplace under the truck, but now Im not so sure. No loss of power, check engine light, or anything of that nature has occurred so Im not sure what to do. Its a 2010 Ford F150 XLT 4wd ....
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 09 F150 Screw short box. I just hooked it up to my camper for the first time and was measuring height on the corners of the truck to check my WD hitch. I noticed that the driver's side was higher than the passenger's side in the back of my truck. I checked again without the camper on some level ground and found the same thing - approximately 1 1/4" difference at the wheel wells and about 3/4" at the frame. I can't believe that this would be normal, so trying to figure out what happened here - maybe it got rear-ended?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2013 5.0 and every time I change the oil filter the oil runs out the front and back of the cross member. That welded on oil catch plate doesn't work. The suspension is stock and I'm wondering if I lift the rear of the truck with a floor jack will it get the oil from the filter all run out the front of that catch plate?
View 9 RepliesAfter a few people telling me that the truck is leaning on the back corner, I checked it today, will check again tomorrow in the street or another parking lot, but here is what I measured at all 4 wheels. The below measurements are all from floor to top of wheel well
These maybe the street causing the difference.
Front Pass = 35 1/4"
Front Driver = 35 1/2"
These are way off, so seems something has happened in this back corner.
Back Pass = 37"
Back Driver = 37 3/4"
Because of the 3/4" difference, what are some things to inspect to see if something is damage to cause such a big difference? Could the shocks be bad already? its a 2011 XLT SCrew with around 76k miles.
2014 ecoboost Supercrew 4x4 20k miles
It happened at the most inopportune time. I was in the left lane of a two lane road passing a slow truck on a somewhat busy road and it happened. Shudder, loss of power, check engine light on, limp mode. I was next to the cab of the truck when it happened and had to slow and get behind him to pull over and shut it down.
Potentially a dangerous situation.
I rarely step on it, but when I do, I expect it to work.
I baby this truck, almost 18 mpg lifetime average for the 20k miles on this truck.
I took it directly to the dealer to get checked out.
Codes P0305 and P0306.
Checked for carbon tracking on plugs, none found.
Performed a power balance and coil stress test, no problem found.
Removed CAC deflector for inspection, no issues found.
Updated PCM to latest calibration.
I came across this on the Tube. I asked the one who put the video up about it and he said that Ford has not been able to diagnose the issue yet and that he was very disapointed.
I'm not putting this up as an ''anti Ecoboost'' thread, but more just to see if any of you Ecoboost owners out there have seen or heard of this issue?
F150 Ecoboost Reviews You Must See this to Believe it - YouTube....
It's a balmy -11 c here, my remote start wouldn't work... I go outside and try to manually start the truck and it turns over for 5 or 6 seconds with ZERO catch.... Fuel tank is at 1/4.... Added some fuel just in case... Nothing.... 6700km and it's dead in the driveway.
View 4 RepliesI just picked up my 2011 FX4 Ecoboost with the 4.10 axle ratio. While in drive, the transmission will not shift into 6th gear until around 65mph. The rpms in 5th gear at this point are around 2300(ish). If driven with Tow/Haul mode on it will shift into 6th at 45mph and lock the converter. If traveling at a speed in drive (no T/H) where you would think it would be in 6th, lets say 50mph on flat ground, and you force the trans into 6th, either by using manual mode or T/H, and then return the transmission to normal drive mode it WILL hold 6th just fine with the converter locked and will even accelerate holding 6th.
If you accelerate more rapidly and the transmission downshifts, it will not return to 6th until forcing it to do so by one of the two ways above. I realize that the truck has adaptive learning strategies, but this doesn't seem right. It also has only 300 miles. Initially I had even thought that this might be some sort of break-in programming, but not anymore.
New to me 2012 Ecoboose Screw Fx4. CPO but the previous owner put a K&N intake and cat-back exhaust on it. Searched around but came up short...
When in cruise control the truck will vary RPM and seem to 'hunt'. For example: if 50mph = 1500rpm the truck will go down the road varying between 1300 and 1700 rpm continuously. Could the truck be in need of a tuner because of the parts?.
Maybe related: When first started in the morning if I pull out of the driveway and hold steady throttle to accelerate, the truck will do this as well, just surges.
I have a 2012 EcoBoost with 10k miles on it. Got in a rear end / side collision and now the truck won't start. I have tried everything I can think of. The fuel pump sounds like it comes on and the dash display comes on just fine but it won't crank. Won't make any sound at all.
The battery is fully charged and all fuses have been double checked. I am willing to try just about anything right now.
Towing my Jeep/ trailer today I was flagged to the side of the road and advised of a massive plume of smoke trailing me... As soon as I popped the hood, I was greeted with the unmistakable smell of burning oil and a smoke screen like something off James Bond. After the billowing smoke cleared, I was able to pull off the engine cover and found a massive puddle of oil along the passenger side intake manifold??? I cannot locate the source of the leak yet? The driver side is bone dry. One other odd thing, when the engine was running I pulled the oil fill cap and there was a significant vacuum - is that normal? I do have a UPR dual catch can with CSS if for some reason that makes a difference???
View 14 RepliesI have a ecoboost with 80k on it. All of a sudden it started cutting out real bad while accelerating. If I punch the throttle it feels like the motor is trying to die. Could this be my fuel pump going out?
View 10 RepliesNeed excess to a wiring diagram schematic for a 2011 f150 ecoboost 4x4 as I need to check what powers up the dash on the 2011 ecoboost as well as other wiring, I have one that had damage on the front end with the battery exploding everywhere, the truck did run and drive and the only difference between than and now was that it was water washed under the hood to clean off the battery acid, it did run shortly after it was washed, but after repairs it will not start, as in not turn over the starter and not power up the dash, its as if there isn't any power coming up to the dash as the dash will not light up or power up the gauges when the key is turned on, or it's not recognizing the key. We took it to a ford dealer to scan it and the tech said it would not link to the OBD scanner and said to check for power at the computer and if there was power that it might be the PCM, we have put in a new PCM, no difference, changed out the BCM (fuse box on right kick panel), no difference, we took the under hood wiring out/untapped it all and checked for damage, no damage, still nothing...
View 5 RepliesMy 2012 ford F150 Eco boost 3.5 l stalls when I am accelerating. What could be the cause? I have replaced the, Spark plugs, coils, air filter, oil, and cleaned the injectors.
View 2 RepliesStart from the beginning 2011 screw 4X4 ecoboost 46,000 miles, under wide open throttle and over 3,500 rpm I'm getting a misfire, diagnosis "I usually chicken out when I hit 80+ in 3rd". Misfire occurs in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd don't have enough road to try a higher speed or gear.
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