So earlier this week i took my truck in for a check engine light and a issue when i would pull up to a Red Light my truck started knocking like a Diesel motor. I quickly put the truck into neutral and the issue went away.
Is there an issue with the 5.4L motors mine only had 69000km and was properly maintained with an oil change every 8000km? 2009 F150 5.4L new motor after 69000Km
Just had my 2010 F150 in for a loud knocking noise when the truck has warmed up in drive and rpm up to about 800. I can't hear the noise when I disconnect the passenger side vtc selonoid. The Tech who worked on it has recommended replacing the motor. His troubleshooting on the ticket says he removed the coil from the number 4 cylinder and the noise he hears goes away. I just can't see that the motor is bad.
View 8 Replies2012 F150 6.2L V8... I am at a loss and I know that loud knocking is not a good sign. Two days ago my truck's low oil pressure light started coming on and off, so I pulled over and immediately turned my truck off. I called a friend at a Ford dealership and he asked a mechanic what I should do. He said it could be something as simple as low oil, bad oil sending unit or maybe something serious. So, he said check my oil level if low top it off and see if that fixes the problem. It was low and I topped it off, but the light kept doing the same thing.
Here's my dilemma; my truck wasn't making ANY noises (knocking, whining, etc...), 2 days later which was yesterday I was en route to get new oil/oil filter changed and 24 miles later I'm in a turning Lane and it dies! Will not start, but it tried, so I did not try anymore. I was able to get it into a parking lot and left it for about 4 hours and went to check on it and it started right up and that is when the knocking noise started. I turned it off and checked the oil and the level reads full...
I have a 2011 F250 6.7 4x4 CCLB. About 90k on the odometer.
Full flopro exhaust(no cat, no dpf) and a H&S tow tune. Otherwise stock.
8" lift and 37" toyo mt tires.
Anyways, I ran the truck in my first truck pull ever a few weeks ago. I pulled in 4wd high, rear locked, tow/haul mode, traction control off 2nd gear.
I wasn't able to pay super close attention to all of the stock gauges, but it didn't over heat and it didn't rev over 3000rpm. It was pulling like a freight train until the 125' mark and it just shut off. I thought something may have broken.... I put it in neutral, cycled the key and it started right back up....
Checked for anything obviously wrong, no fluids, all boots looked attached and fine. Nothing. Drive it home and haven't had a problem since. No CEL, no warning no anything. So why the truck may have stalled on me?
I have a 2006 that shuts off in a hard pull, if I wait 3 minutes it starts again. I hooked up my scan tool and when it dies and I crank it it only builds 200psi oil pressure, let it sit it builds enough pressure to run fine. If I dont push it over 3500psi for more than minute it wont die pull a hill it dies again. Is it the hpop or an o-ring.
View 10 RepliesOn a roadtrip, went to fuel up and when I was done... the fuel door would not pull itself closed. I pushed on it, whatever spring or band was there pulling it closed is no longer functioning. 37500 miles on an '09. This really bothers me because of the no fuel cap design. Will have to take it to the dealer when I get home and find out what's the solution.
View 14 RepliesAfter about 5 miles from my normal place to purchase fuel, My truck bagan to run bad and the check engine light kicked on. Mileage dropped to about 8 MPG. This morning, the truck would not start and after 2 can's of dry gas, I was able to start it (barely).
I stopped at the place where I purchased fuel and at least they admitted that they has to shut down yesterday, stating they received a bad batch of fuel from their source.
Now the fun begins...How do I get the "bad gas" out of my truck?. I now have about 1/4th of a tank. I tried to run a line to siphon the gas and I can not get a line far enough into the tank.
Yesterday had a issue with my new truck, (less than 2500 miles), pulled up to a stop sign and the low oil pressure warning light came on and truck just died and wouldn't start back up, checked oil and put some in and it still wouldn't start, called Ford roadside asst. and right before they showed up it started. Still had it towed to dealership and they're still looking at!!! It's got the 5.0
View 4 RepliesWell it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
View 7 RepliesWtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
View 14 RepliesI am having a strange issue with my truck. It is a f150 2009 xlt ext cab 4x4 5.4 liter
For the past 2 weeks I've had this light thump about 1 or 2 seconds after the truck starts driving,not really annoying but it kinda got me wondering
Since last week it makes a weird scraping noise from the rear end when coming to a stop (10-0 kmh) it doesn't do it all the time though
For a couple days now it makes this terrible squeaking/scratching/whatever(very loud) noise from the rear end when i accelerate from a dead stop, the one time when i crossed a highway, last night when i backed out of a parking spot (again not all the time).
Also when driving through a parking lot,hitting a few bumps and dips I can hear a rattling noise coming from underneath the truck.
Transfer case due for replacement? I don't know what this could be.....
When ever I first turn the key on to power everything up I hear a loud knocking noise which sounds like it is coming from the heater but goes away after 5 sec or less. Truck in question is 2010 f150 screw xlt with a 4.6
View 4 RepliesI posted about this back when I bought it back in Feb. and I thought the problem worked itself out but its back. When the temperature drops below 55 degrees or so, coming from the passenger side of the engine there is a chugging or knocking sound, more so when RPMs are high.
I had no issues with it all summer, but now that the temperature is dropping I noticed its back. Is this something I should worry about? What could be causing this? I had the same engine in my 07 and it never did this.
I have a 2011 xlt crew cab with the 5.0 v8.I have noticed a knocking sound at idle, it happens when the engine is cold or at operating temp. It doesn't do it all the time but more often than not.
View 14 RepliesIn the 2004-2008 forum there's a lot of topics concerning the camshaft phaser knocking/ticking issue but I don't see much in this forum. Was that issue taken care of by 2009 or do some still have the problem?
View 1 RepliesAbout 3 months ago, I bought a 2012 F-150 XLT 5.0 4x4. I bought it from a private party, a.k.a. without a warranty. It's a Ford, right? What could possibly go wrong??
Shortly after I bought it, I started noticing that it was knocking and tapping when it got up to operating temperature. Also, the idle isn't very smooth.
I have read through several threads here regarding Coyote engines with similar symptoms, and I have come to the realization that my wallet may be about to go on a diet.
Here is a video I made today, moving my phone to various places in the engine compartment, behind the drivers front wheel, and under the truck.
2012 Ford F-150 5.0 Coyote Noises 80k Miles - YouTube....
I realize that it could run a long time like this, but I sometimes take long trips and I really don't want to end up with engine trouble in the middle of nowhere.
Considering I don't have a warranty, and assuming the problem is out-of-round cylinders and/or worn valve train parts, what is my best course of action?
My truck is a 2012 145'' scab Ecoboost. It doesn't have a level or any other suspension mods. I noticed a knocking sound while parallel parking this morning. It occurs while steering quickly turning the wheel 1/4-1/2 a rotation in forward and reverse . It is easily felt through the wheel and it makes a quiet sound. I have a crummy video I will attach below. You can hear the sound when the camera is in the cab. It seems like either balljoints or tie rod ends maybe?. I have an oil change in 1000 miles at my dealer so the timing is pretty good to bring it in.
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Not sure, it doesn't seem to me the dreaded fuel pump problem. Was driving on highway pulling my 5th wheel after going though the toll both it never went out of 3rd gear and motor started taping pretty bad, turned tow haul off and it shifted up. All along never seemed to lose power, as I was looking to pulled off high way and into A park in lot it started losing power then just shut off. All along this 2min ordeal the motor was knocking/taping. Seems to me like the motor blew.
View 14 RepliesHave a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
View 7 RepliesWhat is the testing procedures for the blower motor controller on my 2009 150 Lariat. In the old days it was called the resistor but now it is computer controlled for the dual climate control. My fan is stuck on high, the fan switch does work(the bars on the display change when I push the fan speed button). The climate control works also, just blasts you with air and the temp is changing a lot due to the fact of the fan on High. I am 99% sure it is the blower motor controller, but I would like to test the controller.
View 14 RepliesOn a 2012 F-150, does the motor need to be running to use the AC outlet?
View 3 Replies