Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Truck Just Cranks When Turn The Key In Ignition - TPMS Failure
Sep 10, 2016
I just went to try and go pick up some dinner for my wife and I, hopped in the truck, key in the ignition, turn the key, let the computer go through the welcome screen, saw a very brief unknown image then main screen image. Turn over the truck and it just cranks. While cranking, it gives me a tpms failure, a service advance trac an engine overheat(even though it was roughly 24hrs since it last ran), and the wrench, of which those are what I remember but not necessarily in that order. I tried to plug in my dash boss to pull the codes, but no dice. I guess I an just curious what I might be looking at.
Background on the truck: 2012 screw with eco boost, 42,000mi, ford esp, and 99% trouble free.
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My wife and mom went to the dealership today to get remote start installed on their F-150's (bad decision not to do it from the factory). Both trucks had it installed, and it starts the truck fine, but the problem is as soon as they put the key in the ignition to turn it to "Run", the truck shuts off and they have to restart it. The tech says thats "Normal", and it's because of the "My Key" feature.
Neither of the trucks have had any of the keys set up to be "My Keys", all are exactly how they are from the factory. Something doesn't seem right....
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2009 f150 5.4l. 36 gal. After fueling it takes 4 or 5 cranks to start engine. Doesn't matter if its partial or complete fill up. after start has a little black smoke and and rough idle for a few seconds. Then runs fine with plenty of power.
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I have absolutely loved my 2011 F-150 8 cyl since I bought it in 2013. I'm just now having my first issue...
For the past two weeks or so, I've had an issue with intermittently hard starting. It cranks like normal but doesn't turn over instantly. The longest its gone before starting has been about six seconds. Although originally happening only 10% of the time, its happening about 40% of the time over the past couple days. I had my mechanic take a look and the battery and starter all checked out fine.
Biggest problem was that it never did it for them making it hard for them to trouble-shoot. Thus far its always started, just takes an indescript amount of time in which to do it. The time of day doesn't seem to matter although afternoons in which I'm heading to lunch after being in the office for 3-4 hours seems the most common time.
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Yesterday the truck run Perfect. Got home and shut it off. This morning I get I. Turn key and the truck will crank but not start. After it tries to start the oil light comes on. I Che ked the oil and it was 2.5 its low. Added oil and it still isn't starting! 2010 f150 5.4l ....
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I just changed the alternator this morning. Hook battery back up now cranks wont start no security light flashing no security light blinking at all. When turn ignition over gauges do not swipe don't remember if they normally did or not but now they do not swipe as in speedometer and RPMs. I've also been having trouble with the no windows no radio. Just driving down the road and radio cuts out and power windows hear a click under the dash radio coming back on Windows work again research and see if it's in the battery save circuit inside the dash cluster wondering if this is causing no start now.
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My 2012 is showing a TPMS fault occasionally. It goes away after driving for a while, and the pressures in the tires seems fine, so I think something must be wrong with one or more of the sensors.
I am planning on getting new tires pretty soon, so hopefully I can have this fixed at the same time. However, I don't normally buy my tires at the dealership.
question 1) any way to find out which sensor is misbehaving?
question 2) can my local independent tire shop repair or replace these?
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99 Ford Ranger disguised as Mazda B2500. (Same vehicle I think) 5 speed manual, 4 cyl., no a/c. Bought new and maintained according to schedule. Randomly fails to start. Cranks but won't turn over. I try several hours later and am able to start it. Mechanic has not been able to duplicate the failure to start. Checked thoroughly and finds no problem. I am very hesitant to drive it like this.
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So, coming home tonight, I had a new error pop up that I haven't seen before - TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR FAULT - combined with an extremely irritating flashing TPMS light.
I had new tires put on last week... have right at 102K on the truck now. It's an 09 XLT Screw 6.5' bed 4x2.
What will be the possible cause? Is it at all likely that the sensor was damaged during the tire install? I don't want to give the tire shop a hard time if it wasn't their fault, but the timing seems a bit of a coincidence.
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2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
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I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
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I have a 2008 Kia Sportage LX. Lately, when I have put my key in the ignition and start to turn it, it starts automatically. On my ignition I have Off, Lock, ACC, On, and Start. When I start to turn my key to Lock position my car cranks up automatically.
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I noticed an Oil leak of sorts on my truck( 2011 quad 4x4 f150 with ECO) when i did an oil change. Took it in and basically this is what i was told. Tranny was leaking from front seal and to to be removed for repair, upon further inspection the tech noticed the trans fluid appeared to be darker than normal. He tore it down and seen that the clutch plates and other components were excessively worn for a truck with only 15,000 miles. So any way the trans was about to have a catostrophic failure. Its getting replaced.
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The fuse was not blown. The bus connection for that fuse was burned from a high capacitance caused when there is a loose connection.......period.
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My 2002 F-250 v-10 sat for over a month with me in the hospital for spinal reconstructive surgery. Battery was dead but has been charged and tested as good. The truck cranks strong but will not turnover. I am unable to do other diagnosis, what might be the problem.
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2011 f150 5.0... When I turn the key it cranks for about 10 secs I don't hear the fuel pump come on what should I check first before replacing the pump....
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2014 4x4 5.0 ... Drove my new truck (less than 1900 miles) to work in the rain. Alternator failed and battery warning on dash. Took truck to dealer, they confirmed and said not covered by warranty. Talked to ford, they back up dealers decision. They want a whole bunch of money to replace alternator and clean under the hood. What good is a 4x4 if it fails driving to work on an open highway?
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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So I have a 2012 xlt 5.0l single cab. Standard heat/ac with the non-navigation sync system. The blower and heat dosent work. The radio doesn't work on fm or Bluetooth. For the most part the screek doesn't say anything but if I hit the power button on the stereo the time pops up for a second. The key fob also doesn't work. When I click on the font the center console will light up but nothing will happen. The key doesn't work in the door but I'm not sure if it ever did. Intermittently it all comes back on and works just fine but cuts out again. A few times hitting the dash has made it all come back on. When it all isn't working and I press the eject button on the stereo the deck tries to spit something out and it says eject on the screen so I know the screen and the cd part of the stereo are getting power all the time. The Bluetooth doesn't work and the USB port doesn't work or charge my phone. The lights on the center console are all working but it doesn't dim when I dim the dash. I am baffled on what it could be and the harness is impossible to follow.
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Failed to start or do anything with 22K miles. Week previous failure to move at stop sign. Stepped on again OK. WEnt on the hook to servicing/purchasing dealer. PCM? Replaced and so far all is good. Now the trans shifts earlier and will go into 6th at 40 in town driving; never went in until 65 on freeway before. Could the replacement part before newer model 14/15? Or maybe not for a MaxTow with 3.73 gears I have? Is it thinking and finding my driving style.
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Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery and engine and aux power were off. Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. I tried putting key in ignition and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in, connected battery then truck started. Last stop took key out and disc battery engine stayed on. Several prayers and repeated steps above made home.
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