Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Truck Dies Intermittently - Open Circuit To Specific Injector Codes
Mar 5, 2017
I have 2010 F150 King Ranch 5.4L. This truck has been giving us problems by just dying. We have haf it towed twice in two days. It does it more often when hooked up to our travel trailer. The day before yesterday we drove it 250 miles w/o the camper with no problems. Once it dies it can take an hoir or so before it starts. I just did a test and had the truck.running for a bit and then plugged the trailer wiring harness (7 pin with brake control) and truck died within a minute. A couple of times it showed that there codes. The codes were P0201 thri P208. Which is open circuit to that specific injector. When the key is turned off the codes go away.
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I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
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I have a 2010 Ford F-150 4WD 4 Door. The dome light, marker lights and truck bed light will light up intermittently at night. They will stay illuminated any where from 1 minute up to 15 minutes. I thought maybe my TV remote control was activating the remote entry feature on my truck but that is not the case.
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Well I believe I finally had the opportunity to experience the wide open injector issue. I was driving to work and all of a sudden at a stop light my truck started shaking bad. It went away but as I took off every so often it would shake. I thought it was a tire or front end component so I pulled over and just got overwhelmed with the smell of gas. I drove 30 miles back home and check engine light blinked the whole way and truck ran . Also wasted at least a 1/4 tank of gas and the a/c wouldn't blow cold air either. Hooked it up to read DTC codes and got P0172, P0300, P0303, P0304, P0316 and P2196.
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Just got back from the beach yesterday. On the way back I noticed the check engine light on and read the codes. It listed 4 codes, P0671,P0672, P0677 and P0678. From what I can find, Cylinder 1, 2, 7 and 8 have the glow plug circuit open. Truck ran fine and didn't miss a beat. Ambient temp was around 80 when we started up the truck so I guess diesel plugs are not to crucial for that temp. I did notice when driving back the Vbatt would jump from 12.2v at1854 RPM (34 MPH) and 13.8v at 1652 (57 MPH).
Would bad batteries or low batteries cause this type of problem? This may be wishful thinking on my part. I have tested the batts with a DMM and they are at 12.3v. I took them out and charged them but they always go down to 12.3v. FMP is 47.5v to 48.5v. It seems suspect that all four glow plugs would be bad so I assume it could be the harness. What are some ways I can test to verify where the problems come from.First thing I would do is get two new batteries as these are still under warranty.
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Early 99' model I picked up. Blew the oil cooler and had lot of pressure in the Degas bottle, so did head job and oil cooler and now I'm Still getting a P0264. Unplug #8 injector truck almost dies, plug it up and she smooths out...
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So whats everyones favorite? Reason? Its been a while since I had to buy any for a gas engine.
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I have an emissions test coming up. I have 3 P codes that I'd like to eliminate before then. I don't want to "fix" the issues they are telling me about. Just make the codes go away. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them.
What I have coming up is:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve (result of EBPV delete)
P0541 Intake air heater A circuit low (result of aih delete)
P0640 Intake air heater control circuit (also result of aih delete)
What resistors I'll need and where to put them in?
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Truck starts great, and runs and idles fine until it warms up. This could be 15-20 minutes of driving or idling. Then it just dies. Like dead dies, lose power steering, everything (ac and lights still work, but no engine). It had died while idling, it has dies while cruising at 45mph. Then it will crank but no start. After about a 45min to an hour it will start like there was not issue, and pretty much drive the rest of the day (even after sitting) with no problem.
I installed the Adrenaline a few months ago, but the truck ran great for quite a while before this problem occurred. I did have it shipped with a rebuilt IPR. Tonight, I rebuilt the IPR with Guzzle's kit, and stripped it all the way down. Truck died again.
I have not had my AE hooked up when it died (stupid me today). But afterward I have been getting a few codes: P1283 (IPR Control Circuit) and P1212 (ICP lower than desired Engine crank or run).
When trying to start ICP duty cycle is about 64% and pressure is 185 to 190. If I unplug the ICP sensor pressure jumps to 2000ish, truck turns over faster and ICP Duty cycle goes to about 35%.
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I thought id tackle installing my new boss intake this morning and didn't think to clean everything up enough and after i removed the fuel rail some dirt and small stones one was about a quarter of in inch round fell into the injector hole. I no that all will be in the engine now and I feel awful about it.
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2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
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2006 6.0 superduty showing low circuit codes on all 8 cylinders so i checked the FICM and it has 48v when key is on and while turning engine over. What to check next?
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Have a 2004 F350 which had problems starting cold and once started had bad throttle response until warm. It also had a shudder at cruising speed when going up a slight incline, would shudder until turbo kicked in.
Pulled codes which related to FICM and codes for all 8 injectors. 7 injector codes were circuit low, cylinder 1 high. Tested FICM voltage and sent FICM out for repair.
Installed rebuilt FICM, cleared codes, and hard start went away, but cruising shudder is still present.
Only existing code is P0262 for cylinder 1 injector circuit high. I'm assuming that cylinder 1 injector is bad -- are there any tests to confirm before I take it apart to replace it?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 5.4 gas. I have some minor issues that I will be trying to fix. This is my first full size truck and I bought it to pull a trailer once in a while. How can I find the axle ratio for this specific truck? Is it written on the truck somewhere?
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We've owned the 2009 LX570 (approx 101k miles) for about a month now. The vehicle has run fine, no issues. This morning it started very briefly (.25sec) then quit. Same thing over and over. I charged the battery, had it load tested and it all checks out fine. I cleared codes and rechecked it. No standard OBDII codes show, only the enhanced codes. Dash shows a CEL. We drove the vehicle yesterday a few times and all was fine...normal acceleration, started, etc. Then, this morning, it went down. I also pulled the MAF, cleaned it, reinstalled. Pulled the intake tube, cleaned the throttle body butterfly and corresponding area around the butterfly. It was slightly dirty but looked normal.
Here's what I have for codes:
P0300 Random Misfire Detected
P0011 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0012 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0014 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0015 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Camshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
P0017 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor B
P0018 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor A
P0019 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor B
P0021 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0022 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0024 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0025 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0052 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance
I am uploading a short video to Photobucket, which perhaps illustrates what's happening better than I can describe. I will post it up once it clears on Photobucket. Cranking sounds normal and I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump activating as well. I know that low voltage on a CANBUS system can make weird things happen. However, since my battery checks out, I'm not sure on this one.
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I have for a week suspected my batteries were getting weak. just slower cranking is all. I took my truck in to have a viper security system installed and while he was doing his work he killed the batteries. I saw him hook up a battery charger and started the truck. He pulled it around to me and explained how the system worked and off i went. 5 miles down the road, on the thruway, I notice a miss and I'm down on power. FICM looked ok, 48V and it was charging, 13.8 I thought I would bring it to my shop and load test the batteries. On my way here, the check engine light comes on. At the shop, load tested them and they were weak. Installed 2 brand new batteries, started it up, no difference. Hooked up the scanner and pulled a code P2077 (cylinder 6 injector circuit high) Now what? I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm guessing either the FICM went bad or the #6 injector?
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Yesterday driving to work felt the engine missing, on the way home got a CEL pulled the code when I got home it was P0302, so I started with the easy and put a new coil pack, same issue, so I prayed and pulled the plug (it didn't break). Put a new plug and a second new coil pack (just to be sure, and yes I keep extras dang 5.4). cleared codes and started it this time got P0202 Ford - Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 2, so I checked Ohms on #2 and it was 12.6, #1, 3, 5,6 all have 13 Ohms, didn't check #4, 7, or 8 because my big hands and the probes on my multi meter. Checked the wires on all of them and have 12 volts with key on, not running. I read another check to put blk in pin and red on pos batt terminal, and that it was supposed to go 12 to 0 off and on with engine running, All of mine went up to 14 volts and stayed no switching. Is there something I am missing to check before replacing the injector on #2?
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Engine light came on yesterday and started missing on take offs. Giving code p2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low. I've done the research and understand the problem. It's the weekend and shops closed until Monday. Is it safe to drive in the mean time? Is there any risk of doing damage? What's the risk of it quitting or failing start in the short term, today?
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I bought a certified 09 F150 Platinum a few months ago and after 4 trips to the dealership service department, I continue to have a problem with an intermittent engine light. The 1st time they replaced the o2 sensor. The second time they said a connection was loose to the sensor and repaired that. The 3rd time they replaced the PCM and catalytic converters. The 4th time, they replaced the o2 sensor again saying it was a new part that had been redesigned. When I stopped for fuel on the way home, the light came on again and has cycled on and off ever since.
When I called after the 4th time, the service guy said Ford engineers said I was getting bad fuel. I buy fuel from many places just like everyone else in Florida. I use 87 octane as recommended in the service manual mostly with 10% or less ethanol. The dealership service dept has said they have been working with Ford engineers directly but can't seem to get it fixed. The truck seems to run and perform fine. The only constant predictable thing about the engine light is that it will always turn off after the truck goes through the carwash!
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2001 windstar, IMRC works fine (closed) under 3000 rpm. When above 3000 rpm the intake runners open and i get surging/loss of power.
No error codes.
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The engine sometimes has misfiring, and the VCDS reports "Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 7, sporadically". I changed the spark plug, the injector and the ignition coil. So the problem remained and after about 600-800kms the fault came back. Now I moved a little bit the cables of the injector plug and I noticed that the problem is solved, until a few hundred kms were driven. The cyl. 7 is near front side and I could move the cables to the injector plug under the intake manifold.
Now I know, that the problem is the plug of injector (see pics)....
My question.... I bought the plug but it is not the complete like on the pics, it's only the middle part where the cables go in. It has not this sponge-like thing which is in the whole in which goes in the cable. The grey thing which locks the plug is also not in the new plug. Maybe if I have to exchange this small parts on the new plug? I can't imagine how to change the plug, do I have to cut the cables and put them in the new plug. What kind of attachement do the cables have in this plastic plug?
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