Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Transmission Temp 199?
May 25, 2013
I have this info on my new F150 with the Eco. 80 deg. day pulling my dual axle 5000 lb boat 70 MPH. Temp was 199. Is this about right.
View 9 RepliesI have this info on my new F150 with the Eco. 80 deg. day pulling my dual axle 5000 lb boat 70 MPH. Temp was 199. Is this about right.
View 9 RepliesHaving issue with the outside temperature display being way off. It doesn't do it all the time, but does seem to happen if I've been plowing or something. I think I've had it happen in the summertime also, but can't remember the circumstances. Basically it must be happening because I'm not moving much air. Where the sensor is located, and could there be something that may be blocking the air flow? I know this is a piddlely little problem, but if it's easily remedied, I'd would really like an accurate reading.
View 14 RepliesJust noticed today that my trans temp always starts out from cold even after having driven it and it takes a little while to rise up to the temp I checked the other trans gauge same thing do I have a problem or does it really cool down that fast the truck sat for maybe 10 minutes.....
View 5 RepliesI'm a converted Chevy man and I don't think my 2011 F150 FX4 is cold enough. I am getting 46 degrees at highway speeds and outside vtemp is 77. My Chevy always get 38-40 in the same situations. What is eveybody getting? Is this normal?
View 10 RepliesAbout 3 months ago, I bought a 2012 F-150 XLT 5.0 4x4. I bought it from a private party, a.k.a. without a warranty. It's a Ford, right? What could possibly go wrong??
Shortly after I bought it, I started noticing that it was knocking and tapping when it got up to operating temperature. Also, the idle isn't very smooth.
I have read through several threads here regarding Coyote engines with similar symptoms, and I have come to the realization that my wallet may be about to go on a diet.
Here is a video I made today, moving my phone to various places in the engine compartment, behind the drivers front wheel, and under the truck.
2012 Ford F-150 5.0 Coyote Noises 80k Miles - YouTube....
I realize that it could run a long time like this, but I sometimes take long trips and I really don't want to end up with engine trouble in the middle of nowhere.
Considering I don't have a warranty, and assuming the problem is out-of-round cylinders and/or worn valve train parts, what is my best course of action?
Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
View 7 RepliesFord Tech. told me today the reason my a/c wouldn't cool is I have a bad evap. temp. sensor and this part was "non-replaceable" the fix is a HVAC Box from ford, (price includes a h/core replacement since dash would already be out) it has 85000 miles 2010 f150 Screw 4x4.is this my only option for repairing my a/c.
View 3 RepliesExperienced noise coming from the temperature control unit? I generally hear it immediately after turning on AC or Heat and then when I adjust the tempature up or down. It only last for a few seconds then goes away. I plan on taking it by the Ford dealership. 2010 F150 Platinum...
View 7 Replies2010 fx4 duel temp controls...
My driver side works great (heat and AC). My passenger side does not cool or heat properly. Not sure about the back.
From what I have read this is most likely the upper door actuator...Which is what I was hoping because the lower one is such a nightmare. Am I on the right track here?
Experiencing cooling problems with a truck this new? My 2 month old supercrew 5.0 began over heating on a road trip last week. After about 400 miles of driving I see coolant temp start climbing until the overheating warning popped up. Pulled over, turned engine off, popped the hood and did not notice any obvious signs of overheating. Ended up waiting about 15 minutes, started truck up again, temp gauge reading 1/2.
Get back on the road, within 5 min temp starts climbing again, reaches ~ 3/4 then all of a sudden returns to 1/2. Continue on 10 min later temp gauge climbs from 1/2 to overheating quickly. I pulled over again same situation no obvious signs of overheating, but allow sometime to cool off. Started truck again temp gauge reads 1/2. Continue driving and temp gauge seems possessed, going from 1/2 to 3/4 back to 1/2 to almost overheating as I nursed it to the next dealer that I could find.
Dealer tech was able to mimic the problem and believes that coolant is not flowing properly. Thermostat replaced, water pump pulled and inspected, air bleed out of the system, all with no improvement. Now heads are being pulled/replaced to see if this solves the problem. Its depressing to have my new truck with 2,382 miles sitting under the knife at the dealer.
02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
View 6 RepliesI just purchased my new 2010 F150 CrewCab 4x4. I am getting some jumping in the transmission at low speeds. Idling to travel it seems their is slop in the transmission or drive train. Slow start and stops in traffic its really noticeable. Seems the transmission doesn't know what gear to be in.
View 10 RepliesI have a new 2011 F150 4x4 6.2 liter with about 1200 miles, 6R80 6 speed Transmission. I haven't liked the shift quality since buying a little over a month ago. I think the upshift from first to second is kind of rough and it feels like it's slipping a little from second to third gear. I've read a lot of negative posts/reviews on the 6R80 transmission, and some people have said it got better over time, or it got better with more aggressive driving. I do notice it shifts better if I drive it a little harder. The build date according to the sticker is 4/11 and I don't think there are any TSB's for PCM updates for this year/engine/model. I'm wondering if I should bring the truck in now for the dealer to take a look or drive it for awhile longer to see if it gets better?
View 7 RepliesOverall I love my 2013 F150 and it's been great. I noticed my truck's transmission has been slightly clunking at 10 to 30mph. Meaning, driving in rush hour traffic... slow down, speed up, slow down speed up, etc. I have NOT experienced the hesitation, shudder or shaking. Anyway I took it into the dealership for service.
The dealer applied a transmission Technical service bulletin. So I'm reading the dealer's service dept. paperwork and it says 'Applied TSB to the PCM/TCM.' So I ask the 'kid' behind the service counter specifically what that means and he tells me that they applied a software update to the 'power train control module and transmission control module'. These modules are learning modules and I should drive the truck another 500 to 750 miles before I return for transmission service?
I just bought a 2010 F-150 with 60,000 miles. I have noticed that as I slow to a stop the transmission feels like it doesn't down shift. The RPM stays at 1000 and only drops to about 550 rpm when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Feels like the brakes are fighting the engine to stop the vehicle.
View 14 Replies2011 F-150 Scab 5.0L 25k miles. Why my transmission is waiting several seconds after being placed into drive or reverse before it actually slips into gear when first started in the morning and why it has a hard shift between 1st and 2nd than again between 2nd and 3rd and maybe why when it shifts into 2nd and 3rd gear it slips back out than back in?
View 7 RepliesI noticed an Oil leak of sorts on my truck( 2011 quad 4x4 f150 with ECO) when i did an oil change. Took it in and basically this is what i was told. Tranny was leaking from front seal and to to be removed for repair, upon further inspection the tech noticed the trans fluid appeared to be darker than normal. He tore it down and seen that the clutch plates and other components were excessively worn for a truck with only 15,000 miles. So any way the trans was about to have a catostrophic failure. Its getting replaced.
View 14 Replies2010 STX with 4 speed (4r75E)... Yesterday morning when I was almost at work(20 minute drive) I went to accelerate from a stop sign and my truck acted like it was in neutral. Once the rpm's dropped to just above idle speed the transmission caught and I was able to accelerate as normal. I guess I didn't think much of it until I was coming home from work, again about 20 minutes of driving, when I was accelerating while turning left from a stop sign. Halfway through the turn my rpm's shot up to about 5000 and it was acting as if I were in neutral again. Just as before, when the rpms dropped to just above idle, the transmission reengaged and everything was normal.
I decided to take my wife's van to Walmart and grabbed a bottle of lucas oil "transmission fix". I figured it might buy me a little time before I am able to get it to a shop for diagnosis. I used a suction pump to remove approx. 24 oz. of tranny fluid through the dipstick tube. I then added the lucas oil "tranny fix" (24 oz. bottle). I inspected the fluid that I removed. It looks pretty dirty. I would say that it was a nontransparent brown color with a slight red tint. when poured onto a paper towel it still looked brown. It didn't smell burnt at all. I checked the fluid level twice before I added the lucas oil, and twice after. Both times the fluid level was at the full mark (fluid at normal operating temp, with vehicle in park after shifting through all gears).
Fast forward to today and I was able to drive from my current house to my new house(being built) which was about 10 minutes away. I had no issues at all with the transmission. after being at the new house for about an hour and a half I came back home with no issues. about 30 minutes after returning home I headed back out again to run some errands. About 15 minutes into the drive my transmission slipped again as I was making a right turn into the barber's shop parking lot. after about an hour at the barber shop I headed for home again. As before everything was fine for about the first 15 minutes until I tried to make a right turn after sitting at a red light. the transmission slipped as described before, but it did it twice this time in the same turn. Nothing happened after that within the last 5 minutes of driving home.
The slipping only seems to happen when accelerating from a dead stop or from an extremely slow speed(under 5 mph). At highway speeds the transmission down shifts and upshifts just like it always has. My truck has 78,800 miles on it and has never shown any previous signs of transmission issues other than a leaky dipstick tube that I replaced about 3 years ago.
My father had a 94 Taurus that had similar symptoms in the past and it ended up needing new clutch disks and was rebuilt. I'm hoping for that rather than a new or reman'd tranny!
I have a 2011 F-150 with the center console shift lever. I mainly drive the truck during the day so it's possible I never notice this but do the gear indicators illuminate when the lights are on? I happened to look down when I put the truck in gear and noticed that the selector has a red light showing its position but it was really hard to see what gear you have selected.
Normally I just pull it down until I hit D, knowing it clicks 3 times, and I'm off. If you do happen to go into M then you see it on the dash. So I don't know if I've never noticed it or if I have a burned out bulb and its no longer lit up. It's not a big deal but I always like to replace burnt out dash lights just so it looks good but I don't know the answer to this one.
about a week ago I popped both of the passenger side tires By hitting a rather tall curb while trying to avoid being t-boned. And I have had the passenger side jacked up for about a week now while waiting for the shop to order and get in my new rims. It has been raining here for the past week so I only just noticed today that there was a puddle underneath of my truck.
It looks and feels like engine oil but it is leaking from the back of my transmission. I can't figure what it might be because transmission fluid is red and my transmission has never overheated So it should not be burned. It has 128k miles on it so it also only has 8k miles on the last fluid change. So it's fairly new fluid. What this could be?
I know some seal is obviously broken and the way everything is wet around just the back bottom of the transmission it looks like it is coming from the transmission. I originally thought it was just the transfer case got hit and it could be a bushing at either the transfer case or transmission but there is no scraping on anything under the truck so none of it was hit or damaged from that. What could be causing this?
I was changing my oil the other week and when i went to pull the filter I noticed that my tranny pan was wet around the front side, as well as the flywheel insp. plate, and the tranny dipstick tube. It wasn't even enough to drip on my driveway, but wet none the less. after cleaning it up really well and driving it around for 15 minutes it seemed to be coming from the dipstick tube about halfway between where it seats in the tranny and top end of the dipstick.
Removing the tube was easy, just one 10 mm bolt on the back of the engine. After further insp, there was a small piece of insulation on the tube where it passes between the engine and exhaust manifold. when i removed that insulation i noticed there was rust on both the top and bottom of where the insulation sits. i looked it over really well and didnt' see any cracks or holes. I then pluged one end and blew into the other and didnt' notice a loss of pressure or any hissing noise.
I figured if it wasn't leaking and it was already out i might as well clean off the rust and hit it with some paint. I ran a wire brush over the lowest spot of rust and what do you know, 3 tiny little pin holes. I used some 2 part apoxy from work and some aluminum duct tape to repair the hole temporarily until i got the new part in the mail yesterday. total install took around 10 minutes.