Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Transmission Failure - Oil Leaks
Dec 20, 2011
I noticed an Oil leak of sorts on my truck( 2011 quad 4x4 f150 with ECO) when i did an oil change. Took it in and basically this is what i was told. Tranny was leaking from front seal and to to be removed for repair, upon further inspection the tech noticed the trans fluid appeared to be darker than normal. He tore it down and seen that the clutch plates and other components were excessively worn for a truck with only 15,000 miles. So any way the trans was about to have a catostrophic failure. Its getting replaced.
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My 2005 Mini Cooper, manual transmission, has 82K miles. About a month ago, I noticed a loud sound coming from the engine when at speeds above 60mph. Over the next few weeks, the noise started happening at lower speeds as well, 30mph and up. Took it to the dealership and was informed that I needed a new transmission, which came as a great shock to me. Quote to replace is $3,600.
I took it to a transmission specialist for a second opinion. He determined that it likely was the differential causing the issue but that this couldn't be purchased alone as Mini will only sell the entire transmission, not specific parts for it.
Along with the transmission, the dealership also said that I have three oil leaks, need the water pump replaced, air conditioner recharged, control arm bushings and rear breaks replaced. Plus some misc work adding up to $6,500, which includes the new transmission.
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I changed my Oil Saturday and noticed an oily wetness on the pan and couple of those "droplets" at the forward edge of the transmission. Its clearly motor oil. Im takin it in next week. Its not too bad to drive it but at only 14000 miles I am surprised.
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Smells like antifreeze but i can't find any leaks or wet spots on the carpet and the coolant level is good where should I look. Just replaced heater core last winter.
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2014 4x4 5.0 ... Drove my new truck (less than 1900 miles) to work in the rain. Alternator failed and battery warning on dash. Took truck to dealer, they confirmed and said not covered by warranty. Talked to ford, they back up dealers decision. They want a whole bunch of money to replace alternator and clean under the hood. What good is a 4x4 if it fails driving to work on an open highway?
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So I have a 2012 xlt 5.0l single cab. Standard heat/ac with the non-navigation sync system. The blower and heat dosent work. The radio doesn't work on fm or Bluetooth. For the most part the screek doesn't say anything but if I hit the power button on the stereo the time pops up for a second. The key fob also doesn't work. When I click on the font the center console will light up but nothing will happen. The key doesn't work in the door but I'm not sure if it ever did. Intermittently it all comes back on and works just fine but cuts out again. A few times hitting the dash has made it all come back on. When it all isn't working and I press the eject button on the stereo the deck tries to spit something out and it says eject on the screen so I know the screen and the cd part of the stereo are getting power all the time. The Bluetooth doesn't work and the USB port doesn't work or charge my phone. The lights on the center console are all working but it doesn't dim when I dim the dash. I am baffled on what it could be and the harness is impossible to follow.
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Failed to start or do anything with 22K miles. Week previous failure to move at stop sign. Stepped on again OK. WEnt on the hook to servicing/purchasing dealer. PCM? Replaced and so far all is good. Now the trans shifts earlier and will go into 6th at 40 in town driving; never went in until 65 on freeway before. Could the replacement part before newer model 14/15? Or maybe not for a MaxTow with 3.73 gears I have? Is it thinking and finding my driving style.
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I just went to try and go pick up some dinner for my wife and I, hopped in the truck, key in the ignition, turn the key, let the computer go through the welcome screen, saw a very brief unknown image then main screen image. Turn over the truck and it just cranks. While cranking, it gives me a tpms failure, a service advance trac an engine overheat(even though it was roughly 24hrs since it last ran), and the wrench, of which those are what I remember but not necessarily in that order. I tried to plug in my dash boss to pull the codes, but no dice. I guess I an just curious what I might be looking at.
Background on the truck: 2012 screw with eco boost, 42,000mi, ford esp, and 99% trouble free.
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Early 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
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we bought a Toyota Levin 2013 in December New Zealand. We loved the car and for the first three months it went well. Then the transmission? started playing up. First thing on a clear crisp cold morning ( or that seems to be one trigger) we would move off from stationary and it would start to accelerate and then it loses power and almost comes to a stop ( approx 30 secs) then it would engage and move off. This has happened 5-7 times and is dangerous. It will also do this when hot and going up a hill. Toyota is trying to say this is a characteristic and there is nothing wrong. To me it is dangerous.. I haven't noticed the engine light go on.
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I have this info on my new F150 with the Eco. 80 deg. day pulling my dual axle 5000 lb boat 70 MPH. Temp was 199. Is this about right.
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I just purchased my new 2010 F150 CrewCab 4x4. I am getting some jumping in the transmission at low speeds. Idling to travel it seems their is slop in the transmission or drive train. Slow start and stops in traffic its really noticeable. Seems the transmission doesn't know what gear to be in.
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I have a new 2011 F150 4x4 6.2 liter with about 1200 miles, 6R80 6 speed Transmission. I haven't liked the shift quality since buying a little over a month ago. I think the upshift from first to second is kind of rough and it feels like it's slipping a little from second to third gear. I've read a lot of negative posts/reviews on the 6R80 transmission, and some people have said it got better over time, or it got better with more aggressive driving. I do notice it shifts better if I drive it a little harder. The build date according to the sticker is 4/11 and I don't think there are any TSB's for PCM updates for this year/engine/model. I'm wondering if I should bring the truck in now for the dealer to take a look or drive it for awhile longer to see if it gets better?
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Overall I love my 2013 F150 and it's been great. I noticed my truck's transmission has been slightly clunking at 10 to 30mph. Meaning, driving in rush hour traffic... slow down, speed up, slow down speed up, etc. I have NOT experienced the hesitation, shudder or shaking. Anyway I took it into the dealership for service.
The dealer applied a transmission Technical service bulletin. So I'm reading the dealer's service dept. paperwork and it says 'Applied TSB to the PCM/TCM.' So I ask the 'kid' behind the service counter specifically what that means and he tells me that they applied a software update to the 'power train control module and transmission control module'. These modules are learning modules and I should drive the truck another 500 to 750 miles before I return for transmission service?
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I just bought a 2010 F-150 with 60,000 miles. I have noticed that as I slow to a stop the transmission feels like it doesn't down shift. The RPM stays at 1000 and only drops to about 550 rpm when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Feels like the brakes are fighting the engine to stop the vehicle.
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2011 F-150 Scab 5.0L 25k miles. Why my transmission is waiting several seconds after being placed into drive or reverse before it actually slips into gear when first started in the morning and why it has a hard shift between 1st and 2nd than again between 2nd and 3rd and maybe why when it shifts into 2nd and 3rd gear it slips back out than back in?
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2010 STX with 4 speed (4r75E)... Yesterday morning when I was almost at work(20 minute drive) I went to accelerate from a stop sign and my truck acted like it was in neutral. Once the rpm's dropped to just above idle speed the transmission caught and I was able to accelerate as normal. I guess I didn't think much of it until I was coming home from work, again about 20 minutes of driving, when I was accelerating while turning left from a stop sign. Halfway through the turn my rpm's shot up to about 5000 and it was acting as if I were in neutral again. Just as before, when the rpms dropped to just above idle, the transmission reengaged and everything was normal.
I decided to take my wife's van to Walmart and grabbed a bottle of lucas oil "transmission fix". I figured it might buy me a little time before I am able to get it to a shop for diagnosis. I used a suction pump to remove approx. 24 oz. of tranny fluid through the dipstick tube. I then added the lucas oil "tranny fix" (24 oz. bottle). I inspected the fluid that I removed. It looks pretty dirty. I would say that it was a nontransparent brown color with a slight red tint. when poured onto a paper towel it still looked brown. It didn't smell burnt at all. I checked the fluid level twice before I added the lucas oil, and twice after. Both times the fluid level was at the full mark (fluid at normal operating temp, with vehicle in park after shifting through all gears).
Fast forward to today and I was able to drive from my current house to my new house(being built) which was about 10 minutes away. I had no issues at all with the transmission. after being at the new house for about an hour and a half I came back home with no issues. about 30 minutes after returning home I headed back out again to run some errands. About 15 minutes into the drive my transmission slipped again as I was making a right turn into the barber's shop parking lot. after about an hour at the barber shop I headed for home again. As before everything was fine for about the first 15 minutes until I tried to make a right turn after sitting at a red light. the transmission slipped as described before, but it did it twice this time in the same turn. Nothing happened after that within the last 5 minutes of driving home.
The slipping only seems to happen when accelerating from a dead stop or from an extremely slow speed(under 5 mph). At highway speeds the transmission down shifts and upshifts just like it always has. My truck has 78,800 miles on it and has never shown any previous signs of transmission issues other than a leaky dipstick tube that I replaced about 3 years ago.
My father had a 94 Taurus that had similar symptoms in the past and it ended up needing new clutch disks and was rebuilt. I'm hoping for that rather than a new or reman'd tranny!
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I have a 2011 F-150 with the center console shift lever. I mainly drive the truck during the day so it's possible I never notice this but do the gear indicators illuminate when the lights are on? I happened to look down when I put the truck in gear and noticed that the selector has a red light showing its position but it was really hard to see what gear you have selected.
Normally I just pull it down until I hit D, knowing it clicks 3 times, and I'm off. If you do happen to go into M then you see it on the dash. So I don't know if I've never noticed it or if I have a burned out bulb and its no longer lit up. It's not a big deal but I always like to replace burnt out dash lights just so it looks good but I don't know the answer to this one.
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about a week ago I popped both of the passenger side tires By hitting a rather tall curb while trying to avoid being t-boned. And I have had the passenger side jacked up for about a week now while waiting for the shop to order and get in my new rims. It has been raining here for the past week so I only just noticed today that there was a puddle underneath of my truck.
It looks and feels like engine oil but it is leaking from the back of my transmission. I can't figure what it might be because transmission fluid is red and my transmission has never overheated So it should not be burned. It has 128k miles on it so it also only has 8k miles on the last fluid change. So it's fairly new fluid. What this could be?
I know some seal is obviously broken and the way everything is wet around just the back bottom of the transmission it looks like it is coming from the transmission. I originally thought it was just the transfer case got hit and it could be a bushing at either the transfer case or transmission but there is no scraping on anything under the truck so none of it was hit or damaged from that. What could be causing this?
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I was changing my oil the other week and when i went to pull the filter I noticed that my tranny pan was wet around the front side, as well as the flywheel insp. plate, and the tranny dipstick tube. It wasn't even enough to drip on my driveway, but wet none the less. after cleaning it up really well and driving it around for 15 minutes it seemed to be coming from the dipstick tube about halfway between where it seats in the tranny and top end of the dipstick.
Removing the tube was easy, just one 10 mm bolt on the back of the engine. After further insp, there was a small piece of insulation on the tube where it passes between the engine and exhaust manifold. when i removed that insulation i noticed there was rust on both the top and bottom of where the insulation sits. i looked it over really well and didnt' see any cracks or holes. I then pluged one end and blew into the other and didnt' notice a loss of pressure or any hissing noise.
I figured if it wasn't leaking and it was already out i might as well clean off the rust and hit it with some paint. I ran a wire brush over the lowest spot of rust and what do you know, 3 tiny little pin holes. I used some 2 part apoxy from work and some aluminum duct tape to repair the hole temporarily until i got the new part in the mail yesterday. total install took around 10 minutes.
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2012 F150 STX 2wd 6spd 100kmi
I just dropped the transmission oil pan and changed the filter. Put a new filter in. 5qt of oil came out, I put 5qt of oil back in. Oil level is right between the A and B hash marks.
I start up the truck and put it in gear and nothing happens. Its like the oil filter dropped and it isnt getting oil. I dont think this is possible because i watched it go in, the oil pan holds it, the seal came out with the old filter and the seal went in with the new one.
Am I missing something here? this oil change went just as well as any other tranny oil change i have done but the thing wont move.
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