Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Trailer Connector - No Brakes Or Turn Signals
Jul 15, 2015
Hooked up to my trailer and I have running lights but no turn signals, brake lights, or trailer brakes. I pulled plugged in my other vehicle to the trailer and everything works fine. My truck is a 2011 with the factory trailer brake control and pigtail connection. It worked fine last year.
I checked the connector with a test light and there is only power to the running lights. I then disconnected the plug at the back of the trailer connector and tested there and got the same results. Are there particular fuses or relays I should look at?
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Just returned from an 8500 mile travel trailer trip with my 2012 F150 with EcoBoost. Couldn't be happier with how the truck performed. Did discover, however, that my 7-pin connector does NOT charge trailer battery while driving. Wasn't a problem this trip, but could be an issue when dry camping (no electrical hookup). Is it a big deal to get my connector to charge trailer battery while driving?
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Ok so I have a 2014 F-150 Screw fX4 with the projector headlights. 13356.0 km as I sit in it. I had turn signals the other day, but now none. I had the dealer disable the lamp outage to remove the hyper flash issue with led's. Sockets don't look burnt or anything everything is new. So here is what is working.
- mirrors turn indicators
- rear turn signals
- dash turn signals.
I have reinstalled my OEM bulbs and still have the issue, only my running lights are on the front. So it has power.
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I have read and re-read the owners manual fuse section. Can't find what fuse I blew. I do not have trailer brake or turn signal on either side. I do have running lights on the trailer. Which fuse or fuses control the brake and turn signal lights on a 2012 F-150 ecoboost. I had them all a month ago, but bought a new trailer and first time I pulled it the lights went out. Figured I blew a fuse, but can't find the one! No power at the receiver.
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2010 F-150 owner. Why my left trailer-stop/turn will not work on any of my trailers. This issues has happen to me in the past due to a wire grounding out in one of my trailers, I have fixed the issue in the past by changing the 20amp trailer/tow fuse, this time the fuse looks fine and I am still not having any luck finding the issue. I have went through my manual to see if it could be a different fuse and they all seem to check out ok, I have also messed around with the relays and they seem to be fine too?
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I am getting ready to switch out the turn signal bulbs in my 2012 F150 to LED bulbs. I know on my previous truck (2006) I had to switch out the turn signal relay so the turn signal lights would not fast flash. On my 2012 it sounds like the flasher unit is up high in the dash board behind the instrument panel and I can't see it.
How to access it easily? I have seen on other forums the talk of there not being a flasher relay and being computer controlled, but there is one listed on Ford parts for the 2011 and 2012 F150s.
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I have a 2011 f150 xlt it didn't come with the mirrors that have turn indicators on them they have the dummy covers. Putting the indicators in there....
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My service advancetrac light comes on about once a month, seems random but when it does the turn signals will not work, you have to hold indicator in place for signals to work-not to safe. My local dealer has not been able to fix issue...
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My left turn signals have went out again on the rear of my truck and trailer. I replaced a body control module about three months ago and now its done it again. It has not blown any fuses. Why this is happening.
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My father has a 2009 F-150 with almost 25,000 miles. (he leaves it in garage and polishes it weekly) He just purchased a new dual axle trailer with electric brakes and led lights. When we hook up the trailer and press the Brake, turn signal or hazards, we blow a under hood fuse (48 if I remember correctly). When connected to either of his other 2 trailers, everything works and no issues. When I connect my 2014 suburban, the new trailer works perfectly. He does not have a brake controller installed on the F-150 yet. It does have the 7 pin and 4 pin plugs under the bumper.
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Just noticed this tonight. While making a left turn, I had the blinker on and had the brakes applied and noticed the indicator on the instrument cluster was blinking. Once off the brakes, it took it a few seconds for it to resume blinking.
When I got home, I checked to see if the right signal did the same and it did. I also checked the rear lights and when the signal is on and the brakes are applied the light does not blink nor does it brighten up like they're supposed to when the brakes are applied, it stays dim as if both the blinker and brakes are off.
I did a quick search. I have not checked any of the bulbs or wiring, but I'm thinking it might be the turn signal switch/ lever. What the problem might be?
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I have a 2012 Ford 4x4 crew cab 150 xlt. 15,000 miles. When pulling my dump trailer I was stopping to turn and the transmission disengaged. Once I turned the corner coasting the transmission kicked back in again. During this happening pushing the gas did nothing but rev up engine. My dealer said if this happened that a warning light would of came on or a wrench would appear on dash but it didn't. He said then it didn't happen. This happened 3 times in 10 miles of driving. I had it in tow mode.
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Today while towing a 10ft trailer with a golf cart my truck seemed kind of under powered.It has the 5.0 with 3.73 rear end.When I got to where I was going I looked under my truck and there were spots all over the rear end and axle and frame that looked like oil or transmission fluid. I cannot find any noticeable leaks. The air temp today was 100 and the transmission gauge stayed around 200.
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I have a 2011 Ford F-150 XLT. I did take the fuses out of the glovebox and installed them. So trailer lights and blinkers work fine. I just purchased a small teardrop tailer. My problem is that the trailer lights are always on when plugged into the truck.They are on even when lights are off and key is out.
I am assuming that the problem is with the wiring of the trailer harness but I wanted to ask here first in case the problem might be with the truck. I have never had a trailer so I am unsure if the 7 prong plug is always hot. Obviously it is on my truck. Is this way it should be?
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Ok we have a 2012 F-150 and are trying to hook up a 16ft trailer but have no lights. We know the trailer wiring is fine (works on other vehicles) but we have no power at the 4 pin trailer connector. We have checked the fuses and all are fine. Having this problem on a 2012?
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I just bought an electric tongue jack for my utility trailer. Rather than mount a battery on the trailer, I bought a jack that has a 7 way plug, so you just plug into the truck in order to power up the jack. However! My '13 Platinum F150 appears to have a very smart 7 way plug. If I plug in the trailer, everything works fine on the trailer.
If I unplug the trailer and use my tester to check the power inside the 7 way plug on the truck, there is nothing. So when I plug in the jack, which only has 2 tabs on it's 7 way male - positions 4 and 1 (positive and negative since they are red and black) it does not turn on. I wired direct to my battery from the jack 7 way plug and jack works fine.
So I'm guessing that the 7 way plug is not powered up until it senses a trailer is plugged in somehow? Is there a way to override this? Also the 4 flat on the truck was dead when I put the tester to it as well. Maybe same thing? If not, I'll have to hard wire the jack into the trailer wiring harness as a work around I suppose.
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Well, it seems the cover on my trailer connector got broken off. The cover locks the trailer plug into the truck side. The connector on the truck is/was supplied by Ford. Now the dealer say NLA, only 2005 and up. Truck is 99 F250 SD. Plug is 4/7 way. Where can I locate a direct plug-in replacement? I do not want to be cutting and splicing.
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My wife backed the truck into a pole and bent the driver's side bumper and one of the ears on the trailer hitch (the part that bolts to the frame). I bought all the parts that need to be replaced (the left bumper end, the hitch itself, and the plastic bumper cover), gut am hesitant to try to change it all myself. How hard is it to change out all these parts? Is there a write-up any where out there for this?
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I have both a hydraulic dump trailer with two 12v batteries and an RV trailer with two 6v batteries to supply 12v. Both trailer's batteries are wired to be charged from the tow vehicle if the TV is equipped with a charge line.
Does the OEM 7 pin connector on a 2005 Ford 6.0 F250 CC 4X4 have a charging line on it? If so which terminal / pin is it?
What gauge of wire is it and how much amperage will it deliver to the connector? For testing, when is it hot? When the truck is running only? When the key is on? Is it hot all of the time?
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My trailers lights aren't working at all- so frustrated right now!! I've checked all the fuses and those are good, I've got no power back to the 7 pin connector...
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I installed LED tail lights a few months ago, now all of a sudden the passenger side does not light for brakes or turn signals. The lights came with resistors that I put in when installing and the adhesive wore out and they were dangling in the truck frame. The wires connecting the resistors to the light were damaged. I taped the exposed wires and secured them a with a heavier tape, but taping did not work. I also tried switching the resistor packs with the driver side to see if it was them that have an open winding, but they are still operable.
I narrowed it down to wiring between the trailer hook up and passenger light assembly in the electrical circuit. I plugged an LED light bar into the trailer connection and the same problem occurred (running lights come on, but no turn signal or brake light). Where could there be a short? Or is this circuit fused somewhere that the running lights come on but a separate fused circuit triggers the higher voltage for LEDs.
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