Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Switch To Shut Off Headlights And Brake Lights
Nov 28, 2011
I want too hook up a switch to shut my headlights and brake lights off. I want to hook into the ground side. How big of a switch I need to use. I don't want them on when I am hunting.
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So I recently bought a 1997 7.3l F250. It is in fairly good condition, but it has some problems with the lights working. The turn signals and hazards all work, as do the tail lights and headlights. However, when I hit the high beam switch, the headlights cut off entirely. Also, the brake lights do not work at all. Ive checked the bulbs and since they all work Im not sure what the issue is.
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I have a '09 Ford F-150 Lariat, 5.4 with a lighting difficulty. Previous had it in for service for exterior lighting that was intermittent and uncontrolled. A door module was replaced and reprogramming performed by the dealer. Worked OK for awhile, but today I noticed that brake lights were on while the truck was parked.
Checked all that I could think of then pressed the caution light button, activating the front/rear caution lights. Turned the caution button off. Brake lights went off. About an hour later, noticed the brake lights were on again. Tried different things to deactivate the brake lights, but to no avail - brake lights stayed on. Have disconnected the battery - this is where it sits at the moment.
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Subject Vehicle: 2013 Corolla LE
I have a 1993 Base, a 2006 LE, a 2007 LE, and a 2013 LE. All of them Except the 2013 have automatic headlights. That is: you get into the car, start the engine, and drive away with the headlights on. Then later when you turn off the key and get out of the car the headlights are either automatically off or go off soon after.
But on the 2013 the headlights just stay on or off unless manually switched on or off with the stalk switch. Am I missing something here? Why would the 2013 LE Not have this very convenient feature when even my 1993 Base model with zero options Does have it?
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Out of the blue, our Headlights and Parking Lights would not switch on. Checked the fuses--OK. Tested the Relays--OK. Tried a used switch from my mechanic--no change. In the course of doing that, the Parking Lights came on and would not turn off. Tried disconnecting battery, locking/unlocking with the remote and starting it with the remote--no effect. Had to remove lightswitch 20A fuse to turn the P-lights off. Signals still work ok--with either switch. The car does have a HarmonKardon satellite radio which I've never used but have to turn off every time I start the car. I believe it has some sort of security system which annoyingly flashes a red button which sticks out of the dash.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Charger that has a problem with the headlights and brake lights. When the brake light indicator inside the car comes on by itself, the headlights shut off and the heater will not shut off when its on and when this happens, then the signal lights blink real fast like a bulb is blown. This has been happening often. I haven't been able to drive at night. Checked with my mechanic and he couldn't figure it out.
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My wife and mom went to the dealership today to get remote start installed on their F-150's (bad decision not to do it from the factory). Both trucks had it installed, and it starts the truck fine, but the problem is as soon as they put the key in the ignition to turn it to "Run", the truck shuts off and they have to restart it. The tech says thats "Normal", and it's because of the "My Key" feature.
Neither of the trucks have had any of the keys set up to be "My Keys", all are exactly how they are from the factory. Something doesn't seem right....
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2011 f150 - Wiper is in off position, but continues to operate intermittently.
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2 weeks ago the running board lights stayed on for like 5 mins until I went out and messed around with this and that. Tonight I came home and all three brake lights will not shut off. Tried driving,flipping switches....
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I saw somewhere that Passat owners could get a special light switch for the headlights that had more options. I hate that when I am just sitting in my car waiting for a friend, that the DRL's are always running. In bad neighborhoods, I don't want to attract attention to myself or my car. I wish the off position would actually turn them off.
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my high beam switch works if I hold the switch in the forward position, but it won't stay on when I let go. Is there a fix without having to replace the switch?
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Looking for the wiring diagram for the 4X4 switch that is connected to the back on of the coin holder on a non-4X4? It is an 8 pin plug but only has 5 wires connected to it on my 2012. Can you get 12V switch power here?
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I am a new owner of a 2012 used f-150 5.0,I had a 07 f-150 5.4..07 had OD (overdrive) turn off button ,2012 has a tow haul button,,is that basically the same thing as OD switch??
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The door lock switch on the driver's door isn't working. All other lock functions work. Is there a setting like auto lock or something that disables this, or is it another issue.
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I traded in my 2011 Lariat last month because I had quite a bit of problems with it in the short time I had it. I also didn't care as much for the bells and whistles as I thought I would when I bought it.
I got such a good deal on a new 2011 Lariat Super Crew, that I traded. Shortly after getting the new truck, I had to take it to the dealer for two dents that I found the first time I washed it. I didn't see them when I took delivery because it was dark. I had not seen the truck before that because they got it from another dealer to get the color I wanted. I also had problems with the radio buttons on my steering wheel and the sirius button on the dash not working at times, damaged trim around the left side of the windshield, a discoloration the size of a nickel on the console that I noticed when taking delivery, and a ticking noise in the engine . After the truck was in the shop for 3 days, I get it back without anything being corrected. Parts had to be ordered for the console and trim piece.
I took the truck back in 10 days ago for the engine noise and for them to repair the dents that were there when I got it, along with more troubleshooting on my intermittent problems with the radio and steering wheel buttons. I get a call late yesterday afternoon with the verdict.....Ford says replace the engine due to something being wrong with the crankshaft.
I have to say, I'm pretty disgusted right now. I'm not so sure that I want this truck anymore because of all the issues I've had in the short time I've owned it. Service department at the dealer has been great, and the dealership has been talking about possibly getting me into a new truck. I'm just not so sure I want to try a a third truck. I've been a Ford man my entire life, but I'm disgusted with them right now. I certainly don't want a Chevy or a Dodge, so I don't know what I'm going to do at this point.
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I have a 2009 f150 is there any way to adjust the sensitivity of when the automatic head lights come on?
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i have a 2013 Ecoboost Screw. This morning, I was leaving for work about 0445, and was pulling out of my driveway, when I realized my headlights were not on. I tried rotating the switch a few times off and on, and still nothing. I pulled back in my driveway and checked all fuses for headlights, both low beams and high beams. All good. My parking lights, turn signals, and tail lights all work.
When I got home from work tonight, I tried a few more things. I pulled the lamp housing and checked for voltage directly to the bulb. I get 0.9 VDC at one pin and 0 VDC at the other two. Not nearly enough to fire up a bulb. To a known good ground.
I opened the dashboard to check the harness at the switch itself, and when I unplugged it, all lights turned on (except the headlights). Is that a failsafe in case the switch goes out while driving?
As a last ditch desperate measure, I disconnected my negative battery terminal for about 15 minutes just to see if anything changed. I don't know where else to go from here.
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I have a 2013 F-150 SCREW, I have an issue with my doors not unlocking with the remote and the inside door switch. It happens intermittently and not with the same doors.
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I have added the upfitter switches to my FX4 but used all of the switches for accessories. Need to start using the round buttons but don't know the plug number/pigtail for round buttons.
What the plug number/pigtail is for the "off road/hill decent" round buttons on the raptor upfitter console? I don't want to spend money for the harness when I only need one connector. The tiny pins on the switch are too small.
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So I am receiving this notification when I turn my switch on to just have my radio on. I don't have a reason to believe that the battery is bad as I just bought the truck from a dealer last Thursday. Searches come up it is a known glitch in the safety feature that cannot be disabled and is happening with good batteries.
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First week or so, the alarm was fine. It would go off if the passenger didn't have their belt on. Suddenly, it wouldn't shut off, even after the passenger put their seatbelt on. We went through the procedure to just disable it. It worked for a couple days.
Then it started going off again. It only happens if I have a passenger in the front seat. (I have two children in the back but they are in carseats and if it is just them and I, we have no problems, but if my husband is in the passenger seat - we have problems).
We went through the procedure to disable it and it didn't work this time. After more reading I realized the same procedure to disable it, enables it, too - sooo we did it a 3rd time to disable it, again. It worked.
Same trip, we got back in the car -everyone is buckled up and IT GOES OFF AGAIN!! I just want it disabled, period. It drives me crazy.
(It will stop dinging about 10 minutes into the drive but most my trips are under 10 minutes so that means all the time)
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