Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Sunroof Stuck In Vent Mode
Mar 7, 2017
I was driving down the highway tonight and slid the sunroof back. When I went to close it I heard a loud click and got concerned. When I touched the butt to slide it again, it didn't move. I tried the other button and it didn't do anything. Just clicked. So, I finished my trip home as it sounded and seemed sealed. When I got home, I tried the buttons again, and only the told function worked, but only to the point of raising it.
Now I can't lower it.
2012 King Ranch completely optioned out. Never had any issues from it until last month when I had the A/C replaced at Ford. They broke my original factory windshield in the process and ended up replacing it, with another original, free of charge. I don't wanna jump to conclusions, but could they have damaged the sunroof intentionally to try to get me back there to recoop their losses?
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2011 F350 loaded. Stuck on vent mode. Found actuator can feel it trying to move but something is stuck. Tried to remove the actuator but not enough room between the motor and a steel bracket welded in to the dash. (Not removable). Do I have to remove the dash ? (I suspect something fell inside and is stopping the big vent door from moving as i did pull the motor far enough away to move all the door except the vent door.
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1. I can tilt the sunroof up and down with no problem.
2. When trying to open the sunroof, the sunroof is supposed to dip down about 1/4", then retract back. Mine gets stuck while trying to dip down.
3. If I get outside the car, and press down on the glass with about 1 lb of force, the sunroof will pop down, and retract back just fine. It will also close just fine.
I took the car to the dealer yesterday. Four hours later they called me and said it was fixed. I arrived 30 minutes later and tried it, and it was still 'catching' a tad bit...and then would 'pop' down on its own. So the problem was better, maybe by 50%, but still not fixed. The tech comes out, makes more adjustments and finally its perfect, just like factory.
I drive to my destination and try the sunroof out 3-4 times and it worked perfectly. I went inside my destination for an hour, came back out, and immediately tried the sunroof having my doubts. Sure enough, it was catching just like it was at the dealership an hour before hand. Now, the following day, its completely stuck like it was before I took it in for service all together.
It seems to be changing based on duration, or time. It makes NO sense to me. I do have an appointment for 8am tomorrow morning to address the issue yet again. Got the car back and it still seemed like it was catching a little as it retracted down. The loaner IS I had was smooth as butter with zero catching. The service department told me they compared it with a brand new IS and said this was the same on their new one.
After about 2 hours later, I noticed it got a little worse and is causing a major 'thud' when popping down. I immediately called and scheduled ANOTHER service appointment for Monday morning. The sunroof won't even open now. It gets completely stuck as it retracts down. Seriously... what is the freaking deal here??? Its like it keeps getting off track without even using it... I feel like this is never going to end.
Tonight, I decided to look at the sunroof myself and see if I could figure this out on my own. I tilted the sunroof 'Up' and examined a light 'sticky' residue all along the black lip of the sunroof glass itself. I began to assume that perhaps this light sticky residue was causing the glass to 'stick' as it was supposed to come down & retract back. I got some white lithium grease (liquid in a rattle can) and sprayed it in a terry cloth and wiped down the black edges of the sunroof glass. I then tried opening & closing the sunroof to see if this work... and it DID! The 'thud' noise as the sunroof comes down was instantly eliminated... but I noticed the more I opened & closed it, the thud started reoccurring ever so slightly.
I then tried lubing up the sunroof the best I could using the terry cloth and liquid white lithium grease and now the sunroof is opening and closing near perfectly. It appears it needs quite a bit of grease though as the black rubber surround on the sunroof glass seems to be absorbing the grease very rapidly... and if I could find some white lithium grease that's a solid base (solid like Vaseline), I could probably lube it up enough to rectify the issue permanently.
Lexus has had the car since 03/11. They called me today and came to the conclusion that the sunroof glass + seal needed to be replaced. They claimed to call a technician (I guess at Corporate Office) and there has been two incidents of this happening where replacing the sunroof glass fixed the issue. They said the glass was on backorder but said it showed it was going to be delivered to them tomorrow. Very strange. But lets see if this fixes it.
Coincidentally enough, the drivers door lock actuator also went out Thursday morning. So a new one goes in tomorrow. The sunroof glass and seal has been replaced. The sunroof opens normal and appears to be fully functional again. Very interesting! The tech notes describe the issue as the seal having become warped and catching on the roof panel, which caused the 'thunking' and 'catching' of the glass on the roof.
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Last night I was driving to work and had the vent on...I noticed that there wasn't a lot coming out of the left (driver side) vent but a lot coming out of the middle two vents. Thought I would throw this out there in case I may have a blend door issue or something.
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I have a 2010 fx4 150. I have a water leak threw my sunroof?
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My 2009 santa fe with the 2.7 has a check engine light. p2422 evap vent solenoid stuck closed. I replaced the charcoal canister and the light came back on. I replace the solenoid by the throttle body and the light came back on but took longer to set. My wife said that she was having problems filling the tank but when I changed the second solenoid the problem was gone but the light had returned.
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2012 F150 King Ranch broken sunroof track TS
Does the ASI-44420 broken sunroof track TSB apply to 2012 F150? I see a lot of complaints from 2011 & 2012 users online, however having trouble locating a TSB. The fix for 2009-2015 is the same, so my initial thought was the TSB should cover all those years as well.
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My fan is NOISY!!! Its noisy in AC mode, defrost mode, heat mode, vent mode.... It really sounds like a leaf got sucked in. I don't wanna mess with the dealer since I don't think its a warranty thing. So, is it as simple as dropping the glove box and three screws for the blower as I have read?
2012 Eco.....
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After turning the truck off and restarting, the towhaul button needs to be pressed to turn it on, I always forget this and pull into traffic, my question is can towhaul mode be turned on and off "on the fly" or do I need to be at a complete stop? I looked through the manual, It doesn't say that I have to be stopped. I never had an auto trans. with this option before.
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Was on the highway cruising along and punched it to pass a slower vehicle. As I've done many times before without issue. Got a flashing CEL and it went into what I assume is a type of limp mode. I reduced the throttle input to the point the CEL cleared and full power returned. I did not have to stop the truck and key-off etc. I also made no further attempts to see if it would do it again. What causes that? Kind of annoying to pull out to pass and you hit limp mode.
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Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery and engine and aux power were off. Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. I tried putting key in ignition and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in, connected battery then truck started. Last stop took key out and disc battery engine stayed on. Several prayers and repeated steps above made home.
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Truck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
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What is the testing procedures for the blower motor controller on my 2009 150 Lariat. In the old days it was called the resistor but now it is computer controlled for the dual climate control. My fan is stuck on high, the fan switch does work(the bars on the display change when I push the fan speed button). The climate control works also, just blasts you with air and the temp is changing a lot due to the fact of the fan on High. I am 99% sure it is the blower motor controller, but I would like to test the controller.
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I have a 09 f 150 4wd that i took in for a trans flush, the electrical bulkhead connector on the rear of the trans appeared to be leaking so i got the replacement part and asked the service shop to throw that in if possible. Two valve bodies were partially removed and the said part was still not accessible. i said No!!! put it back together and do the flush! s
So the flush was done (by a ford tech) and now the back up lights, rear parking aid, and rear view camera are all out of commission!
It has been in the shop for 2 days now and the flush was done a second time for whatever reason, now it wont come out of third gear. the shop owner called me to say i bought the wrong filter... I don't have the part number handy but i got it from oreilly. they say it is the filter for the 6r80 trans with the 21 bolt pan. does that sound right?
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I have a 2012 ecoboost, recently I went to the trip gauge mode and the display screen for trip A had a yellow rectangle imposed over the time,mpg ect.and would not function correctly. When I switch to trip B info, all info operated correctly and no yellow rectangle in trip B mode. Trip A mode continues be inoperable and still has the yellow rectangle even after the engine was shut off several times during the day.
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Truck is stuck in Park, cant get it out. Tire Pressure Monitor Failure warning is blinkings as is the low tire pressure light. Emergency Brake light stays on, EM brake is not engaged. No Electrical working, lights, radio, AC.. I don't know what is going on with it...
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I've had an issue twice with the truck stuck in park. Both times I pulled battery cables and it reset itself. This time is different; the truck is stuck in park, the chime doesn't work when you open the door, the screen flashes tire pressure monitor fault and the traction control light blinks on and off. Not only that, the radio does not work, nor does the heat/air. I've got to believe with that many things its the body control module gone bad? Truck is a 2010 crew cab with the 5.4 btw...
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I have a 2011 F150 EB SCREW 4x4. Built in september 2011. The issue seems to have started recently as follows:
1st incident- driving normal, came to stop, accelerate from stop (normally) and the truck was stuck in first gear. Pulled over, shut it off, waited, restarted and seemd ok.
2nd incident (today)- driving normal at around 40mph in 6th gear and all of a sudden the transmission violently jumped to 1st gear for no reason! Then slowly geared back up to 6th again.
Also, I have sometimes noticed that soon after startup, but adequately warmed up, the truck will seem to keep pulling forward at a stop light with the brakes on hard...rpm is at normal idle but it seems like the torque converter will not "let go".
I'm going to be calling the dealer but need feedback, especially regarding any TSB's, SSM's etc for this?
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Having problem with sunroof when it's popped up to just vent? It rattles LOUD! Least little bump... not sure what to do? 2012 GTI.
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Just hasn't been my luck lately guys. Last night was around 4 F out, taking a left at an intersection and lost power. Though it might be the TC kicking in as it was a bit icy out, but no indication of that on the dash. Then the "service engine" wrench showed up for a second on the display.
This was followed by the airbag light turning on, and the truck going into some kind of limp mode. The speedo indicated "0 MPH" though I was running about 2k RPMs in 5th.
My display showed this:
I couldn't force a downshift with the throttle, or get one from manual mode. I slowed down and pulled over at a safe place, shut the truck off and restarted. Hasn't happened since then.
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We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
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