Recently my '11 supercab suddenly downshifted from 6th to 3rd while rolling along easily at about 50mph at the bottom of a very slight downgrade. It has done this 3 times now and takes me totally by surprise every time. I have an appointment next week to get it looked at, but my dealer is about 225 miles away and it's a real pain to take it in.
View 14 RepliesI just bought a 2010 F-150 with 60,000 miles. I have noticed that as I slow to a stop the transmission feels like it doesn't down shift. The RPM stays at 1000 and only drops to about 550 rpm when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Feels like the brakes are fighting the engine to stop the vehicle.
View 14 RepliesHave towed or driven Class C MH for years, now have 2014 F150 Ecoboost. Pulls great.
Question: while towing up long incline, engine got hot, shot message through dash saying truck would shift gears to ovoid overheating. I have read I should lock out 5 and 6 on slow steady climbs. If I am in tow mode and want to downshift, how do I do that? I know I can shift entire thing to 2nd gear - but I assume that is not what we are talking about here. On this particular climb it was hot (100 out) and I was blocked in left lane going slower than I would have liked. RPMs were low.
Looking for detailed description of process. I also regularly use Tow/Haul. Sometimes on decline I will downshift to 2nd or 1st and not use brakes at all going down.
So last night I was on a 55 MPH road that has a gradual right curve, that ends up at a stop sign in a T intersection of a major highway. I was in the process of slowing down when the engine all of a sudden died. Then the brakes and steering went as stiff as can be. I made the curve and was able to stop at a semi decent location. After checking my shorts. I tried to restart it and it would only run a few seconds with rpm's jumping all over the place. the check oil light would flash and then the engine would die.
I was able to get it to move like 20 feet to the side of the road. The major problem is the bumper to bumper warranty was up 6 months ago. So I just had it towed home. Now it's time to figure out what exactly is wrong with it. I tried to borrow a code reader from the local parts store. But none of the ones by me will lend them out anymore. This is also my only vehicle for the time being. I have had the vehicle since feb of 2009. It is a 4.6L 3v engine and only has 27000 miles on it. I have read a few things online about them stalling.
I have had a few times when my 2013 Chevy Traverse LT suddenly jumped to a low gear while quickly slowing down, causing the RPMs to jump up to 4-5000 RPMs. It remains in that gear until I am practically stopped. Is this normal?
View 15 RepliesI have a 2002 Mazda Protege5 (auto trans, 80k) that will occasionally make a sudden downshift at approx 60mph. The car will lurch, the speedometer briefly goes to zero (while the car is maintaing speed) and then within less than 5 seconds, the speedometer (dial type) will return to proper speed reading and car will upshift back to proper gear.
This seems to happen around 60 mph and also occasionally happens on highways as the car begins to go on a downslope while maintaining highway speed. This happens frequently but not on every trip. When first happened, took to shop, they found AT fluid very dark and flushed and replaced AT fluid and filter. Problem not eliminated.
So I was driving in a busy part of town today with a lot of stop and go traffic. Then this previous previous generation E class pulled up next to me and started reving it, his exhaust sounds aftermarket. I am the kind of guy that never race or drive fast on the streets, so I just ignore him. Then when it's green he pulled ahead and maintain at 30 mph or so, when I caught up he started reving again. He had his emblems shaved so I cant tell which model it was
So I was like what the hell...if he is a E350 or E500 he stands no chance, and if he is a E55 AMG the worse case it will be a close match. Different story if he is a E63, but it didnt sound like one. Since I was cruising in AUTO before, I must be at 5th or 6th. So I went into Manual, press the sport button and start downshifting......it took forever.....I was literally just waiting for it to go to 2nd before slamming on the gas...since the street in front of us is running out of room and will reach another red soon. Before I could get to 2nd, he already took off after cruising with me for a bit. When I finally got to 2nd and the engine growl started, I flew past him and let him hear the borla but we already hit the red...he turned right. I just thought I missed the fun.....
It was a hot day in LA...so the engine oil is well warmed up. And since we have so many gears, I often times find downshift sluggish and esp it cant skip gears..it has to go in sequentially. I have little to complain about the upshifts, but downshift..am I missing something here? How to speed up the downshift?I think dual clutch is way faster in both up and down....
Just left my lexus dealer after getting an oil change. When I go WOT with the car in auto mode (whether or not in sport mode), it is very sluggish to downshift and when it finally does downshift, will accelerate very slowly above 4,000 rpm...almost no power.
In manual mode, no issue, accelerates great. All fluids are fine and no CEL. Gonna take it back to dealer in a few minutes.. Dealer has no clue what would cause the issue, they did not reset the ECU or do anything other than change oil and filter.
Very strange issue today. While driving in stop and go traffic (Auto Sport Mode). I noticed the car was starting in 2nd gear. Next stop I switched over to M and it would still not downshift to 1st even with the paddles or shifter. Once I started moving I could manually downshift just fine. Car seemed to shift normal. Eventually got the VSC / CEL . Here are the codes:
Pending:
PO301 - CYL 1 Misfire
C3101 - no details
C3411 - no details
C3000 - no details
Historical:
P0A11 - DC/DC Converter Enable circuit open
All of the codes cleared and did not reappear while idling. I have not driven the car yet. It also goes back into 1st now while stopped although I haven't tested coming to a stop. Will do that tomorrow
One thing to note that was out of the ordinary today. For some reason I was absolutely freezing (which should be impossible this time of year in SC) so I turned the AC off before this started and the idle dropped very low (400 - 500) which I seem to remember being normal but I almost never run with my AC compressor off unless I'm in race mode and I'm usually not putting along in stop and go traffic if that is the case. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but perhaps the low idle caused a voltage issue which tripped the codes.
Lexus IS350 ... Noticed a reasonably quiet clunk from the car when coming to a stop? It happens when the transmission automatically shifts into 1st gear with your foot on the brakes.
I noticed that in my car, you can feel a slight lurch forward as the transmission downshifts into first when approaching a stop sign. If I am barely on the brakes, I feel the slight lurch but don't hear anything. Under normal braking, that slight lurch happens along with a clunk. You wouldn't hear it with the radio on, but it's very repeatable and with the windows down you can hear it as well coming from under the car somewhere.
My 09' has developed the abrupt downshift issue at 20 mph when cold. Once the transmission is warmed up, the problem goes away. There is a Service Bulletin on this problem so it is known and a fix is in place. The fix according to the Service Instruction is to remap the transmission software.
How this remap affected their vehicle. My car has been returning great gas mileage, and I am concerned that this fix could hurt that. If mileage is adversely affected, I'd rather live with the downshift IF it won't hurt anything.
I just bought a 2009 Hyunda Sonata, 4 cylinder limited edition with 82k miles on it about a month ago. It was maintained to the suggested maintenance schedule by Hyundai dealers prior to me owning it.
after about 2 weeks, it started having issues when slowing down. I narrowed it down to being a harsh downshift from 4th to 3rd when breaking when cold. After driving for 10 minutes it doesn't do it anymore.
My temporary fix is to manually downshift it into 3rd when I have to slow down. It seems to be that it stays in 4th too long and shifts late into 3rd, but I wouldn't think downshifting late would really matter.
My Hyundai is giving me a major headache. I bought a 2009 sonata used a few months back. Not long after I got it, I was having issues with it jerking around 20 mph. Sometimes, it would have a few issues with it jerking some when I was taking off. This was only right after the car was started. I took it to a local Aamco. The guy told me that it was a 2-1 downshift pump. He "relearned" the transmission and the problem went away. Now, it is back. At the time, he did some research and thought it may stem from a calibration update they had issued. He didn't have the Hyundai software to try that fix.
View 3 RepliesHaving issues with the fuel injectors on the 2014 IS250? Gas was pouring out of the top of the engine all of a sudden? Lexus is stating they have never heard of this before and its numbers 6 and 8 that had a manufacture issue.
View 1 RepliesBought the ISF about 6 months ago. I knew the previous owner who didn't abuse it. Was driving in 95 degree weather. All of the sudden it seems like the car lost half of its power. It still goes but doesn't pull like it use to. I checked for engine codes (none). Disconnected the battery for 5 minutes (no change) It seems like the throttle doesn't open into the secondary switch on the floor. Its just an even gradual response versus the kick once you get on it.
Also its a 2008 model
A week ago, my wife and I were driving on the highway when suddenly our 2014 Santa Fe decided to shut off at 65 mph. When I say shut off, I mean EVERY SINGLE THING IN THE CAR DIED. All of the interior lights off, headlights off, instrument cluster, EVERYTHING. Being cool, calm, and collected, I immediately shifted into neutral, cranked, and all was back to normal. Not in the 2 years that we have owned this car has that EVER happened! I chalked it up to an inexplicable electrical anomaly.
Tonight, again, the same thing happened under different circumstances. This time, I was following her. She came to a stop at a red light, then once she lifted her foot off the brake, everything shut off. I instructed her to immediately put the car in neutral and try starting it. Like last time, it turned right back on. Apparently, there seemed to be an issue with the previous generation with the 2.4 motors.
I have 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed automatic. I have 10,500 miles on it and I have had this transmission issue since I got the car. At times, while accelerating onto highways the car does not downshift. The car stays in 3rd gear up until 4,000 RPM. I can shift it by putting it in sport mode and shifting manually. It only does it sometimes but it does not seem normal.
Took it for my 1st service visit dealer said no codes came up on the computer and maybe it needed to be broken in. Went for 2nd service dealer told me no codes and no problems. I then wrote a letter to Toyota under the lemon law since it had 2 failed attempts at fixing it. They contacted me and said this may be normal. I do not see how it is normal.
Is it because it is a four cylinder that it has these problems? Usually it shifts correctly but I feel there is a defect but they said the computer would have codes stating problems and it does not.
I have a 2009 2.4/auto with 32000...original owner...just noticed a weird tranny issue develop over this past cold week in NY...when coming to a slow stop the trans will harsh shift as it down shifts from 2 to 1...
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 S with an auto trans and 68,000 miles. I've never replaced the fluid or filter. Over the last 10,000 miles or so, I've noticed the following in regards to shifting.
I will being on a merge ramp to the highway rolling along and waiting to pull out into the flow of traffic. I'll be traveling along at a constant speed, say 30 mph, with constant pressure on the throttle waiting for my opening in traffic. I will see my opening and floor it. That's when (sometimes) the car seems to get very confused. It doesn't shift back right away, it lingers in 3rd (or OD) and picks up a tiny bit of speed. Then, it hesitates with no acceleration, and then roughly shifts to 2nd or 1st. It feels more like it forces itself into gear and, once in gear, it accelerates like it should.
The biggest issue for me is that this whole process takes about 3 or 4 seconds. That's not very long, but when you're trying to merge onto the highway or cut into traffic, 3 seconds is the difference between being safe and a close call.
Transmission fluid appears to be full, is a nice red color, and doesn't smell burnt.
Having problems with the electrical unit on 3is? A while back it had sudden black outs or freezing with the screen. When that happens my entire multi media does not work including gps. Recently it keeps telling I have a system update but when it finishes loading the same cycle of it updating keeps appearing.
View 4 RepliesAlthough the 2009 Accents don't have automatic running lights, since I got the car I'd just been keeping the headlights turned on. (Yes I know this will cut the life of the lights themselves but it's not a bad safety step for a small car).
This worked well of course - the headlights would come on when the car was started, headlights and parking lights would go off when the car was stopped.
I've done nothing different but in recent weeks however the parking lights have been staying on quite often - though not ALL of the time. While I can't rule out I've done some quirky thing differently that somehow keeps the lights on, googling around and searching this forum indicates that this could be an issue with a relay box which may be costly to replace but still under warranty (I'm under the 5 year 60k mile warranty still)
Now bear in mind, this isn't a situation where the headlights are turned off and stay on - it's just a change from having the headlight knob always on, but the lights would go off when the car was stopped and keys removed.
Obviously the "fix" is simply turn off the headlights when I get out of the car - but I am concerned that there's an inexplicable change and wonder if it's a sign of larger issues regarding a relay that should be addressed while it's under warranty.
I know - very minor in the grand scope of car problems but I do worry about larger electrical issues, especially since the parking light issue seems to be erratic - sometimes it goes off, sometimes it stays on.