I have a 2010 F150 with 39,000 miles. This morning the truck started fine. I ran in to get something came back out and the truck had died. I tried to restart it and nothing. When you turn the key forward the starter spins and wont stop until u turn the key off. The truck never tried to fire. The motor tuned over and over but nothing. is there a starter relay? A solenoid?
View 2 Replies2010 F-150 owner. Why my left trailer-stop/turn will not work on any of my trailers. This issues has happen to me in the past due to a wire grounding out in one of my trailers, I have fixed the issue in the past by changing the 20amp trailer/tow fuse, this time the fuse looks fine and I am still not having any luck finding the issue. I have went through my manual to see if it could be a different fuse and they all seem to check out ok, I have also messed around with the relays and they seem to be fine too?
View 2 RepliesMy last problem was a leaky rear window. In my 11 F150 XLT, whenever I turn the Recirculate on with the main vents, my main vents seem to stop blowing. 2-4 work, but no 1.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2001 4.6 F150, starter spins just fine, but it won't start. Checked all the basics, but it has no spark, and no pulses at the injectors. Is the PCM dead? Wore out the Haynes manual on this one....
View 12 RepliesI just bought a 99 F350 to replace my 01 F250 5.4 and I'm pretty stoked. There are several problem (some i knew about, some were surprises) 1 of which is the starter. The guy I bought it off said that every 100 starts or so (more like every 4-5) the starter sounds like it free-wheels but you just wait for it to stop, turn the key again (sometimes twice) and it engages and starts (although it takes a few seconds of turning over before it fires up).
I have a buddy with the same truck and he has had to replace his starter many times and I read in an old log book from the original owner that he had replaced the starter every 25,000kms (15,000miles). I am not the kind of guy who likes to fix things to have them break again.
SO my question is, WHY do the starters on these trucks keep breaking? What is the weak link? Is it possible to re-build one with better parts at home?
Is the problem partially because my batteries are only 650CCA and 750CCA and it takes more to turn this beast over? Could it be a bendix issue?
'99 Yukon. Starter spins engine fine but engine won't start. Spray a quick shot of starter fluid or drip some gas on the air filter and it starts fine. After sitting idle for a half hour or so the situation returns. Car will run highway speeds (70-80mph) fine and will handle stop and go in town. Local mechanic wants to replace the fuel pump, which was replaced a couple of years (30,000 miles) ago. This seems an expensive first step with no diagnostics done.
View 4 Replies2014 fx4 full load, purchased new in sept 2014, having with the range/distance with the remote starter? Most times I have to be within 20/30 yards to activate it and if im inside my home or any building its useless and rarely activates it regardless of the distance. My point is a remote start is made to start your vehicle from a reasonable distance without having to step outside to activate it.
View 10 RepliesStarting about 4 months ago, when starting my truck, the starter would miss; I would turn the key to start, then the starter spins and spools up very high and loud but not crank the engine. I have to turn the key off to make it stop and then try again. Usually the second or third time it will grab and turn the engine and start. It happens about once a week or once every 10 or 12 times I start my truck with all the other times being normal. Doesn't matter if it's a cold start or already warmed up. It's a 2012, 6.7L F250 with 52,000 miles. What is causing it and how it can be fixed.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Jeep Liberty with 43,000 miles which many times in the morning, the car won't start. I hear for just a brief moment the starter motor turn on for less than half a second then turn off. I take the key out and try again. It takes a few times for it to run. I have tried different keys and once it has been started for the day, it usually is not an issue until the next morning.
View 2 RepliesGot a problem that has left me in circles. 85 BMW 325e, manual. Won't start. Previously had some driveability problems, sporadic brief stalling. Using the key in ignition switch, starter spins the engine with no hint of a start.
1. IGN components all test to spec and during start attempt there is spark on all cylinders.
2. Fuel flow and pressure is within spec, both when FP relay is jumped and during start attempt.
3. Speed and reference sensors test good.
4. All inputs to dme have been tested, including power and grounds, and are good.
Just got my new work truck a '12 EB. This morning it was about 9 degrees and I jumped in and turned the key. The dash screen went out and the radio display went out then cycled back on but the starter didn't crank. I tried 2 more times with the same result. Then I just let the key in the on position for about 10 seconds and then I turned the key and it started right up. I stopped at several places and every time I went to start it it cranked and fired up the first try. Now tonight the truck has been sitting for 7 hours and it is 12 degrees, it took several tries before it cranked.
View 14 RepliesDeveloped a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.
Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
View 4 RepliesHere's a little more info on the truck I'll be working on:
-2001 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew Cab 5.4L Triton.
-Has been used as a work truck so it has some miles on it 200,000+ and it shows. He showed me the lower control arm and the upper control arms bushings are a worn. Some coming apart and others with cracks in the (the bushings).
-So might need some more things replace but need to learn more about the truck to figure out exactly what?
Anyway, I'm probably just scratching the surface of the work needing to be done on this truck but for now I'll focus on the more important issues since without a functioning steering wheel he cant drive the beast. Might end up doing some customizing to the truck in the future such as changing the headlights to give the truck a more meaner look, along with the grill.
I have a 2009 f 150 two wheel drive and after reading and doing a little research I found my problem. Slip yoke same as alot of guys here,come to a stop clunk,take off clunk. My question is my warranty ran out,I had a 30,000 or three year and now I have 31,000 plus it's like the truck new when the warranty ran out. There is a TSB on it,10-22-6 NOV 10 Drivetrain - Driveshaft Slip/Bump On Accel. Or Braking... Will they do any thing for me,and how much would it cost me to have the work done at a shop.
View 11 RepliesExtended cab ecoboost 2x4. Shudders as I come to a stop while in 1st gear. Feels like it's something to do with the transmission. Haven't taken it in yet. Not towing/hauling.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 f 150 two wheel drive and after reading and doing a little research I found my problem. Slip yoke same as a lot of guys here, come to a stop clunk, take off clunk. There is a TSB on it 10-22-6 NOV 10 Drivetrain - Driveshaft Slip/Bump On Accel. I am going to pull the rear driveshaft and put in new grease MERCURY MARINE GREASE with TEFLON (2-4-c ) part nbr 92-802863A . How much do I need, will 8 ounces be enough.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 Xlt super crew with a 4.6L. I've noticed lately when I start from a full stop the the truck has a small shutter or hesitation before it starts accelerating. Its barely noticable but it is there. What it could be? I had the tourque converter replaced just before my warranty was up, I've only put 30000 Km on it since. Was wondering if it could be the cause.
View 3 RepliesWell I have 8000 miles on my 12 Eco now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned but it has always shifted rough, Mainly into 3rd gear but you could always feel it downshifting when rolling up to a stop sign also, I just assumed it was the way it was suppose to be. This morning I was driving it and noticed it was shifting very nice and smooth, no downshift braking or the other little issues.
I also noticed the the select shift was turned off (the numbers on the dash 1-6) if you push the + button on the shifter you can turn them off, I have had it turned on since I bought the truck because I kind of liked the display but anyway with the select shift turned off the transmission shifts very nice, I turned it back on and the rough shifting returned, Try it on yours to see if it changes.
2010 F150 XLT FX4 5.4L Crew Cab Medium box, nice blue truck, lacking on chrome though.
My friend has a clunk/lag on take off from a dead stop only. Drives fine down the road, but when taking off from a complete stop, you step on the gas, and nothing happens for a second, feels like it lags, then clunks, gives a jerk, and takes off.
From talking to other newer Ford owners, seems like a common problem.
I've had my truck start making a nice CLUNK from the vicinity of the rear axle when starting moving from a standstill. (and it's a pretty decent thunk sometimes, you hear it AND feel it). I called and made an appt to bring it in and have it checked out (also having the first oil change done and gonna see if they can figure out why the automatic headlights are almost always on even on a bright sunny day) ...
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