Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Squeaking When Open / Close Driver Door
Jul 3, 2015
I have a '12 SCAB that when opening the driver door the weatherstrip on the door near the front fender, which seals against the pillar squeaks each time you open and close it. Makes the truck sound 20 years old. It appears the weatherstrip is binding on itself instead of just slipping past. I understand it gets dirty and cleaning it will work, but only for a day or so. I've checked the orientation of the weatherstrip with new trucks and its in the correct position.
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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2011 Scab truck when driving over rough stuff drivers side door sounds like its cracked open when its not...never liked clamshell doors wished they would have went with mini doors like Dodge....
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Well, I suppose my '09 is starting to show its years. Stopped to fuel the other day, opened the fuel filler door, and it wouldn't remain all the way open. Get done, try to close it, and it won't close all the way either. I'm wondering if there are springs in the arm and one has failed/fractured?
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Any time I open or close the driver side door, hearing some noise from the door hinge.
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If I use my remote to unlock my 2013 F150 FX4 it takes two pulls on the door handle to open the door. The first pull doesn't do anything I can notice, then the second one opens the door. Is that the way it's supposed to work?
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Both my rear doors in my 2010 F150 supercrew wont open from the outside. Was wondering, is there was a DIY fix?
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Did a search and read the manual and I cant seem to turn of the dome lights when I open the doors. For example... Sometimes my daughter falls asleep and I want to open the door at night without the lights coming on... Or If the mosquitoes are going crazy I might want to turn off the light so I don't get killed... I know I can hold the switch to the right and it turns lights on with doors closed, and hold for a second to the left to turn off. But what about opening the door? I know my old 2007 was able to do this function...
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So I have been trying to figure out why when I turn off the car with the driver door opened, the car will beep continuously until I close the door again. Is it trying to tell me to remember the key? This was the case in my 2010 IS250 too... so its not something that is new.. its just now that I started wondering.
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When our 2008 Outback (75K miles) is running the garage door remote in the car will not open or close the door. New batteries in the remote, so that can't be the cause. We have to turn the car motor off, operate the remote, then start the car again. We have to follow the same procedure when getting back into the garage. This just started about a month ago and does not happen with any of the other cars in the garage when opening or closing the same door, i.e. the remotes operate with their motors running. Is it possible there is some new electrical discharge from the car that is causing this? Something unusual with the alternator? Other possible causes?
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I've just got a 2014 model Hyundai i25 and it has a funny habit. When the driver's door is opened there is a ticking noise (like a light on/off sound). The noise stops when the door is closed. It happens only with the driver's door. This a company car and I checked the others ~ 15. None behaves the same. The local official Hyundai dealer/workshop can't figure it out...
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We were coming home today from a 300 mile trip and we were heading into a 40mph head wind. Anyway we start to here a clicking sound in the driver's door like something is blowing around in there. It sounds like a piece of metal hitting on metal or like a small rock blowing around in there. Tick, tick, tick, it about drives me crazy. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow and hope it continues for them. Ever have that happen when something is going on with your vehicle and take it to the dealer and it doesn't do it. 2010 Lariat....
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The driver side door of my 2009 f150 won't lock, not with the remote nor with the button inside the truck,also not when the truck goes over 20 km/h, however the driver side door works perfectly fine....
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I just bought a new to me, '09 F-150 4X4. It is plush on the inside and didn't have too many miles on it. One thing that was lacking in the owners manual or any other material in the owners package was the code to unlock the doors. The local Ford dealer wants to charge to get the code for me. I was told there was a site one could go in the internet, plug in some information about the vehicle and the code would be displayed.
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My drivers side door just started clicking when opening or shutting ...
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got in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
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I purchased a new 2011 F-150 Lariat, Ecoboost, SCrew, 4x4 last weekend. I love the truck. It is very comfortable, the Ecoboost has been incredible, and the ride is very nice. I am looking forward to towing my ATVs after I hit 1000 miles.
Yet, I have one problem. I get an incredible amount of wind noise and wind whistle from what appears to be the driver's door. I read other posts about wind noises and wind whistles (e.g., bug shield), but they do do not apply to me.
I'm planning on dropping it off at the dealership this week for them to take a look at.
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I recently acquired a 2011 F150 Platinum. Nice truck! It has the automatic deploying running boards. They're nice but one problem: the driver side board takes about 15-17 seconds to retract after closing the door. This is way too long a time. The passenger side retracts after only 2-4 seconds, which is good. The dealer researched this to see if there is any way to adjust the driver side, but found nothing. I'd like the driver side running board to retract sooner after closing the door, like the passenger side.
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On three different occasions in the past month I noticed air bag light on in my 13 supercrew. Code comes up as B0091 drivers door crash sensor. This truck was bought new and only has 13000 miles on it so my gut is telling me it's something to do with the harness that is at the door hinge. I've carefully inspected the wires and do not see any obvious broken wires but that doesn't mean one of the wires isn't breaking on the inside.
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Our car was rear-ended (we had a great shop to the repairs and the car drives/looks like it did pre-accident). However, the navigation door magically stopped working now that we have the car back. The navigation screen still works fine, but the open/cose buttons will not make the door/lid open.
On other threads I have searched here, people have suggested this could be from the door being off-track (not the case here), a broken motor (could be the case), and/or a blown fuse (also could be the case).
What fuse I would need to check if it is in fact a fuse? I've looked at the fuse boxes in the engine bay (by the battery) and in the trunk, but all fuses look fine. Is there anywhere else I should look for a fuse before wasting a day at the dealer to diagnose/fix the problem?
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I just bought a 2002 SC430, 62,000 miles, silver/saddle near perfect condition on owner, all records for $17,000. The radio door is stuck open and won't close. How to fix it? [/COLOR] Also the radio antenna will not go all the way down - about five inches stays up. Are the two problems related. Like others mentioned, I could eat off of the engine and the trunk still smells like a new car.
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