Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Small Hole In Intercooler Tube
Nov 6, 2014
So my wife nailed a small spike buck and he when up under the truck. On his way back, his antlers hit the intercooler. One side tube was collapsed and the other collapsed but tore open. Has to repair one the tubes and, if so, with what. I was thinking I could pull the dent out with a pick and then put some sort of epoxy over it.
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So I just don't have any luck with anything turbo related. Last time it was my intercooler that went out. Now the passenger side intercooler tube keeps popping off and the damn clamp is broken so I can't tighten back up to even get me to the damn truck stop. I guess it could be worse...it could be late at night and raining...oh what, it is.
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My friend is working on a 2004 6.0 F-250 and it has used 75% of the coolant in the overflow bottle in 5 days. Can't smell coolant either. The inside of the tailpipe is wet soot black and there are wet spots on the tube coming from the intercooler to the turbo at the turbo and the intercooler. He's thinking EGR cooler.
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I was changing my oil the other week and when i went to pull the filter I noticed that my tranny pan was wet around the front side, as well as the flywheel insp. plate, and the tranny dipstick tube. It wasn't even enough to drip on my driveway, but wet none the less. after cleaning it up really well and driving it around for 15 minutes it seemed to be coming from the dipstick tube about halfway between where it seats in the tranny and top end of the dipstick.
Removing the tube was easy, just one 10 mm bolt on the back of the engine. After further insp, there was a small piece of insulation on the tube where it passes between the engine and exhaust manifold. when i removed that insulation i noticed there was rust on both the top and bottom of where the insulation sits. i looked it over really well and didnt' see any cracks or holes. I then pluged one end and blew into the other and didnt' notice a loss of pressure or any hissing noise.
I figured if it wasn't leaking and it was already out i might as well clean off the rust and hit it with some paint. I ran a wire brush over the lowest spot of rust and what do you know, 3 tiny little pin holes. I used some 2 part apoxy from work and some aluminum duct tape to repair the hole temporarily until i got the new part in the mail yesterday. total install took around 10 minutes.
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This fiber material doesn't hold up to mud and sand very well. So much so, that the front hole ripped through. It won't stay fastened. I have all of the twist bolts still. Looking for a way to fix the shield so it will hold. I tried exposing a washer to it, but the epoxy doesn't like the material very well. I know the owners manual says to remove the shield if you are going to be off roading, but I hesitate to leave it off 100% of the time.
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I just noticed my 13 FX4 isn't draining water, but I checked inside and the carpets feel dry. Maybe I'm just being paranoid but the wifes Jeep always has a huge puddle under it. I'm sure the drain is somewhere under all that silver sound deadener. Is this common?
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2014 fx4 6.2. Had a coolant leak. Brought to dealer for warranty work. Found a leak in middle lower tube area. Said they replaced radiator part # BL3Z-8005-D. It sure looks like my old radiator still under the hood complete with squished bugs. Am I missing something?
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I thought id tackle installing my new boss intake this morning and didn't think to clean everything up enough and after i removed the fuel rail some dirt and small stones one was about a quarter of in inch round fell into the injector hole. I no that all will be in the engine now and I feel awful about it.
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2K Metro has a hole in the gasoline tank fill tube, between the gas cap and tank. It doesn't leak only when putting gas in. Is this hard to change or patch? I just found a replacement fuel filler neck. Is this hard to change. Can you change it with gas in the tank if you're careful?
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I just picked up a 2010 f150 xtr 4x4 few weeks ago and I notice the bed shake is pretty bad when hitting small bumps int he road. I watch in my rear view mirror and it seems the drivers side is doing all the shaking, and the passenger side of the box seems solid (minimal movement like a truck should). It only shakes on bumps and does not increase with speed or anything so im assuming its Not my tires? I can literally feel the shaking in my feet in sync as i watch the box rattle in my rear view. Also look at my passenger seat and it looks like a vibrating chair, an extreme one.
I got under the truck everything looks solid, checked all the bed bolts are tight, i honestly have no clue at this point. I use to have a 2000 ranger and honestly I find the box shake on my new 2010 is just as bad as my old truck. My brother and cousin both have 2011 f150's and i find theres to ride alot nicer than mine. My truck is a supercab and theirs are crew cabs, however i don't see it making that big of a difference in ride? Checked tire pressures i have 30lbs in the back tires and 35 in the front. Like it said its only on bumps, doesn't start shaking on a smooth road, so im expecting some sort of bad suspension component?
trucks a 2010 f150 xtr 4x4 supercab with 18" wheels
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1999 Ford Windstar started overheating. I discovered coolant leaking from a small metal tube coming out the top of the rear right (drivers side) of the engine. There are two similar small tubes. This one appears to be corroded through. I tried to pull it off, but if felt like it would break off.It's pretty far back and somewhat difficult to access. I'm wondering if this can easily be replaced and if so, how would I go about it.
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I have a 2013 F150 Ecobost. It is a 4 door 4x4 with the single rear drive shaft. When I pull my boat I get a very strange vibration between 60 and 70 MPH Mostly around 65. I had my balance checked all around on truck( not by Ford dealer) and took my Bass boat to the factory and had them go thru all the wheels and balance. It worked but I still have vibration. When I'm pulling the boat and the vibration starts I can see the trolling motor shaking on the front of the boat. At this time I do not think it is the boat. I have a tongue weight of about 350 Lbs. Having problems with F150 with a little load on the rear. Truck and boat are both new with low mileage.
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I have a 2009 ford f150 4.6l 3v v8 standard cab with about 53k miles on it.
Recently the check engine light came on so i went to autozone to have the codes pulled for free, it says i have a small evaporative leak.
They said may be the gas cap, but the thing is, i have a quick fill cap that came in stock with truck so the gas cap isnt even needed.
I've looked under the hood, and noticed that there is little pool of oil on top of the valley of the engine on the passenger side of the engine, could it possibly be the PCV hose that is bad and be related to the evaporative leak code? or its unrelated and i have a bad gasket for the valve cover?
It isn't affecting the performance of the engine,.. yet. I have a road trip for my work coming up very soon and i wanted to try to fix it before then.
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I have a 12 F150 with the 5.0L. it has 27000 miles on the clock. Noticed twice a small puff of white smoke coming out of the exhaust and decided to check the oil level and it was a quart low. The last oil change was done at 23000 miles and used Full Synthetic Pennzoil and a K&N filter. Called the local dealership I purchased at and they told me NOT to use full synthetic and should only be using Motorcraft semi synthetic with a Motorcraft filter. I know the dealerships will only endorse and advice Motorcraft products but what does everyone else use and think. In the meantime I added a quart of oil and all is fine.
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I am doing the usual upgrades on a 2005 F250. What started as a small leak at the rubber coupling between egr tube and oil cooler turned into doing everything else while motor is down this far.
I am curious what the difference in the upgraded oil cooler is? Well besides not prone to failing as early.
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I broke a nipple that a small hose connects to while I was changing my air filter. What this is and possibly some fix-it tips. I attached a couple of pics. one broke and one not broke.
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09 stx 2wd 4.6L- I have a 2.5'' leveling kit and 33'' bfg a/t tires. The problem is when I make sharp turns, or turn and go over small bumps. Whats happening is something seems to catching or rubbing it kind of jerks towards the opposite of where I am turning and causes the traction control to slow my truck (sucks on tight off-ramps/ u-turns). this happens at pretty much any speed although it gets worse as speed increases. At first I thought it was the steering stoppers but don't have any wear on them, tires do not rub anywhere. My dealer and a local off road shop cant figure it out...
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Need the fuel system diagram or schematic for my truck.
1999 250 superduty v-10 Ser# 1FTNF20S1XEC67940
Every time I run it I smell gas. I changed the f/p 6mo ago. While I was working on it I noticed there was a hole rubbed in a small hose. I assumed it was a return line (smelled gas before too) and when I fixed it the smell went away until lately. I dropped the tank,yesterday and didn't see any problems. Just need to find out what hoses go where so I can replace the hoses??
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Last spring my 2004 Camry, 3.3L with only about 115,000 KM (71,500 miles) started losing Transmission Oil. The lost of oil was very minor but I still had to keep an eye on it.
Last summer, I took the vehicle to a Toyota Dealership and they found the problem. It seems that corrosion created a small hole it the transmission case. just behind the driver's side wheel. The Service Tech was very nice and shared that in all of his years working at Toyota, (about 20 years) he had never witness this and none of the other mechanics had seen this as well. He indicated that my choices were simple, change the transmission or try and repair the hole with J-B Weld type of cold weld product (not sure if they used the J-B Weld product). I of course decided to use the cold weld product as per the mechanic's recommendation.
Well, last fall, the leak started again and it leak all through this past winter. The vehicle now has about 130,000 KM (90,000 miles). Besides this problem, the vehicle is in good shape and still runs very well. The funny thing is that the vehicle had a corrosion product sprayed on the vehicle soon after it was purchased.
Link to photos : [URL]............
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07 Camry SE.
First off, the car has been sitting in our garage for 5 days, yesterday I noticed a small puddle of liquid under my car, but couldn't tell what it was because the floor is dark so I put some white cardboard under it and checked it again today, there was a small puddle of clear liquid with no smell. I jacked the car up to see what was above the puddle and found this drain tube.
Is that the condenser drain tube? I did run the car for about 10 minutes yesterday to check transmission fluid levels but all climate controls were off.
2ndly, a few days ago I ran a wire to the battery to power my new trailer wiring harness, while under the dash running the wire through the firewall I saw this component under the dash about where the driver's right knee would be while driving.
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I have a 2011 Prius 2, with 35K miles, and have noticed a clicking sound in the steering when hitting a small bump or hole in the road. If the car is parked, I can rock the steering wheel back and forth, and hear a clicking sound. I do not remember the noise being there until recently.
Also the radio reception seems to have gotten weaker. If I am on a trip out of town, it now seems that I am looking for stronger stations frequently, as static interferes. I had the car to the dealer for this a few months ago, and they said they could not duplicate the problem
This car is about ready to drop off the warranty, and would like to have Toyota pay for the repair if it is needed.
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