Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Shudder Like Rear Is Rolling Over Rumble Strip For First Few Feet Of Throttle Input
Mar 19, 2014
Today and yesterday day mark the first time since I have owned my truck, that I have really taxed it with a load or serious work.
I have 8126, miles to date, and hadn't felt this annoying and somewhat pronounced shudder at throttle- tip in. Only from a dead stop. I'm doing some work to my house, so as I type this I have about 700-800lbs in my box. I've never felt this shudder empty as I do with a load, and starting out on an incline.
It feels like the rear is rolling over a "rumble strip" for the first few feet of throttle input, between 5-10 mph and then smooth everywhere else.
Rob- if your reading this, I can't remember if your shudder was similar, or if yours did it empty or only when towing or hauling a load.
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My vehicle had a shudder which felt like driving over a rumble strip. It would usually occur after hitting a small bump at around 35 mph and hearing a clunk underneath. The shudder lasted just a few seconds. Checked the whole steering, suspension, chassis, drivetrain, u-joints, rear e-brake shoes etc. Finally found that the RF axle shaft could be moved up and down excessively in the steering knuckle. Removed axle shaft, R&R u-joint, vacuum hub seal and the torrington bearing in the hub. (used to call it a spindle bearing) ...
There was a little bit of wear into the stub shaft where the spindle bearing rides. That removed the play from the axle when it was all re-assembled. I was very happy until about a month later when it started doing it again, but not as bad as it was originally. I think maybe the stub end of the axle shaft needs to be replaced due to the wear in it. I don't want to just throw a somewhat expensive part at it without some info about "superduty shudder".
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My '05 Expedition will be driving normal at highway speeds, and when I need to apply a little more throttle to start up a hill I get a shutter thru the truck that sounds and feels like driving over a rumble strip. It doesn't last but just a second or two, but it happens frequently. Is it something in the 4wd? Transmission? or.......?
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I hooked up the boat and went out for a tow. I ended up getting a pretty good vibration and thought maybe it was time for balancing the trailer tires. As it turns out I needed two new tires as they were at the wear bars (cheap crappy bias ply tires) so I ended up buying 4 trailer tire radials and had them balanced.
As it turns out I have what I guess is a shudder at slow speeds and also can feel it at other speeds as well. A way to explain it is that it sort of feels like you are driving over the rumble strips on the side of the road but really small ones.
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I've looked at all the shudder issues thru the forums and mine seems a little different. Mine feels like I'm riding over tiny rumble strips or like pebbles and at all speeds. I just got new tires and a front end alignment. mine seems to do a little bit of that shudder thing but all the time. I bought it used from a honda dealer with 48k on it. I have to take it to them for the warranty they gave me. Curious how that's going to work out. 2009 5.4 3.55 rear and 157" wb. 4x4.
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I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
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I have a vibration sound coming from just under my feet. Its not all the time, but about twice a week itll start. Wont stop until ive parked and turned off the truck. The vibration intensifies with speed of the road, not RPM. Stops when the truck is stopped, then picks back up as soon as i go. It usually stops or atleasts gets a lot quieter when i get to highway speeds.
Now, it will only make the sound in 2H, when i switch to 4H/4L, the sound completely disappears. But as soon as I put it back into 2H, it starts right back up.
I drive a 2013 F150, 33000KM and has a level kit. Any thoughts?
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Care finally runs well and passed inspection. So I can legally drive it at speeds. Noticed what feels like widely space rumble strips when coasting 2003 explorer. I am now trying to check all my fluids ... trans seemed a bit low (PITA), rear and front differentials seemed full... but should they be checked with the engine running or off??
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2010 F150 5.4V8... At altitudes 9000 ft and above the engine RPM rises and drops while at idle and while driving slow. It also burns more gas.
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I recently bought a 2004 Mustang convertible V6 auto with 180K miles to be my daughter's first car. The car has a driveability issue. It has a "rumble-strip" like vibration at speeds between 35-55 mph. This is when accelerating or decelerating. If I slip the car in neutral when driving the vibration is gone. Here is what I have done: new plugs, wires, coil. New u-joints. Front end needed a new tie rod end on right side, new transmission filter and fluid (only replacing lost pan fluid). Another thing wrong with the car (possibly related?) is that the ABS & traction control lights are stuck on indicating a system failure with the ABS.
Note that when replacing the ujoints I noted a couple of things:1- there is SOME amount of play at the transmission tailshaft bushing. It seemed excessive to me, but a local transmission shop told me that if it is not leaking fluid that it is not a problem. I did not gage the movement, but it was close to 1/16".2 - The other thing I noticed is that the universal joint for the rear yoke was a little bit stiff, meaning that it did not move as easily as I would have thought that it should. This was the case with both the old rear u-joint and the new, This indicates to me that the pinion trunnion ears are not perfectly aligned, but not sure what I should expect.
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Where is the aux input jack on the 2005 f150? I have the console button but no input jack?
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Well I have 8000 miles on my 12 Eco now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned but it has always shifted rough, Mainly into 3rd gear but you could always feel it downshifting when rolling up to a stop sign also, I just assumed it was the way it was suppose to be. This morning I was driving it and noticed it was shifting very nice and smooth, no downshift braking or the other little issues.
I also noticed the the select shift was turned off (the numbers on the dash 1-6) if you push the + button on the shifter you can turn them off, I have had it turned on since I bought the truck because I kind of liked the display but anyway with the select shift turned off the transmission shifts very nice, I turned it back on and the rough shifting returned, Try it on yours to see if it changes.
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I have a weird problem with my 2008 Elantra GLS 86K Miles on it. I did a couple of searches on this problem but didn't find any threads. About a month ago I noticed that when I braked hard at highway speeds 65 to 70 Mph I would get a noise that sounded like I was driving over the rumble strips on the side of the road. The rumble was the same frequency no matter what speed you are going, it doesn't get faster or slower. The problem slowly got worse to the point that it would happen at 25 to 30 Mph. The noise sounds like it is coming from the front but I can't tell which side. I figured that it was probably rotors and time for a brake overhaul so I replaced the rotors, pads and hardware on the front and the back. I used synthetic brake grease on the slides and guides. I also replaced the brake fluid with synthetic DOT 3.
When I did the back brakes I found that the wheel bearing on the passenger side was leaking lots of grease so I replaced it with a Timken bearing. (I live over an hour away from the nearest dealer so I did the repairs myself.) While I was working on the bearing I pushed the rear shock up and out of the way and it stayed in the up position for quite a while, aren't the shocks under pressure and usually push right back down? (Just an off subject thought) Well after replacing the bearing the rumble strip noise went back to just happening at speeds from 45 Mph and up. I was also thinking of pulling the fuse on the ABS and seeing if the problem goes away but will pulling the fuse hurt the car in any way or trip a code? I know what the ABS sounds like and this is not the same noise you get when sliding on ice.
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My 2001 Outback has developed a problem in the last few days. When I move the car from a dead stop, I go through a brief period of heavy vibration coming from the back of the car, exactly as if I am running over a rumble strip. It occurs as I am accelerating away from the stop just after the clutch is totally let out. Once I get to a high-enough velocity, I no longer feel it. However, if I maintain a very low velocity I can feel some vibration but not quite as pronounced as it was coming from a dead stop.
I have been able to make this happen in 1st and 2nd gear, I have not tried in 3rd, 4th and 5th. It does not happen in reverse. I tested the clutch by putting the car up against the back wall of my garage, revving the engine and putting the car into 4th and 5th gear and the car stalled, as it should. The clutch did not slip. This clutch has about 60,000 miles on it. The previous clutch was replaced at about 85,000 miles. The problem has been getting worse steadily during a just completed a 700 mile holiday round trip. Could this be the clutch? Could it be something in the transmission?
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When my 2004 jeep liberty sport goes between 40 and 50 miles an hour it sometimes shakes like it is going over a rumble strip if i release the gas pedal it stops was wondering if it was some sort of trans sensor that was starting to go bad ...
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Have a 02 v10 125xxx miles have had grinding noise on drivers side sounds like driving on rumble strip took out the unit hub everything looks good changed out the needle bearing because it was frozen still have sound after needle bearing replacement sound goes away if hubs are locked so question is it the unit bearing or stub shaft...
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My wife drives a 2006 Honda Civic. She just drove back from Vermont - we live near Boston - and on her way back the idle was unusually rough and twice she said it felt as if she was driving over rumble strips, even though she was on smooth pavement. The first time she was going 40 and the second time she was barely moving. She also noted that once, at a stop sign, the car wouldn't slowly move forward when she took her foot off the brake, as it usually does. She had to give it gas. The thing is, the problem is very intermittent.
She says the only thing that is constant is the rough idle, but the engine check light is NOT on.
The last work that was done on the car, about a month ago, was the replacement of the calipers and shoes on one of the brakes. My wife had driven for some time with the squealing noise that indicates you need to change your brake shoes without telling anyone about it. She used the radio fix.
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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I picked up a 2014 F150 with the EcoBoost engine a couple weeks back and while so far I love it, I can't get over how quiet it is. So, to my question, has anyone done anything with the exhaust to get some of that truck sound back. A slight rumble on acceleration would be nice to have and maybe get some gains out of it, but thats minimal.
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My 2010 F150 randomly feels like I'm driving over the rumble strips as well as a small jerk like there is a cylinder misfire. If keep it at constant speed it still happens, but under cruise control it stops. Even when load increases like going up a hill.
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Been suffering some take off shudder as well as the 55mph shudder and finally took the truck into the dealer who informed me it is throwing a couple of misfire codes (no CEL). Quoted for spark plugs. Looking around the boards, seems a lot of people are seeing premature wear on the ecoboost plugs and have had success regapping or replacing. Any words from 5.0L owners? What are the odds they just need regapped? I'll probably just replace them anyway, but its a good discussion. Also are they are simple to replace as it looks- just pop the coil packs off and they are there in the valve covers?
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