Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Shudder / P0301 Misfire On Hard Acceleration
Oct 10, 2016
Was driving to Airport yesterday and out of nowhere got the flashing check engine and shudder/limp mode while trying to merge/accelerate onto the onramp (had to gun it to go around someone who decided to stop on the onramp for no reason). Let off the gas and the blinking went away. Upon leaving the airport I was accelerating again at highway speed to pass and got the blinking light and then a solid CEL. Found my way to a Autozone and got the code read. P0301 Cylinder#1 Misfire. Was suggested to change COP and plug.
Changed COP on the spot and had to drive it home to my tools to install plug. Thought maybe that since the CEL was still on solid after changing that the code needed to be cleared for the PCM to function normally again. Still have shudder when accelerating hard, so thought it might have been injectors so got cleaning service done at Goodyear. Still have the issue. Disconnected battery and performed IDLE relearn just now and it still is shuddering upon hard acceleration. Stumbled across TSB 12-6-4 which speaks to my symptoms.......I do not have the plate which in turn would imply I do not have the PCM update it references.
I have not noticed a misfire nor had an acceleration issue before so this was a surprise to come out of nowhere. I'm going to be calling my dealership in the morning.
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I have had my ecoboost for a couple months now. Overall I am very happy with it but I have noticed a shudder recently when accelerating and when coming to a complete stop at times. I only feel it when accelerating from a stop or when stopping completely. Kind of feels like something slips. I think I recall reading about this before on the 2011 and 2012s somewhere. What is causing this and is there a fix or is it just the way these trucks are?? I can deal with it but it is kind of annoying when driving in traffic.
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2014 ecoboost Supercrew 4x4 20k miles
It happened at the most inopportune time. I was in the left lane of a two lane road passing a slow truck on a somewhat busy road and it happened. Shudder, loss of power, check engine light on, limp mode. I was next to the cab of the truck when it happened and had to slow and get behind him to pull over and shut it down.
Potentially a dangerous situation.
I rarely step on it, but when I do, I expect it to work.
I baby this truck, almost 18 mpg lifetime average for the 20k miles on this truck.
I took it directly to the dealer to get checked out.
Codes P0305 and P0306.
Checked for carbon tracking on plugs, none found.
Performed a power balance and coil stress test, no problem found.
Removed CAC deflector for inspection, no issues found.
Updated PCM to latest calibration.
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Start from the beginning 2011 screw 4X4 ecoboost 46,000 miles, under wide open throttle and over 3,500 rpm I'm getting a misfire, diagnosis "I usually chicken out when I hit 80+ in 3rd". Misfire occurs in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd don't have enough road to try a higher speed or gear.
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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I have a 2009 Corolla with a 1.8 L. I have the misfire code P0301. I have changed the plugs, ignition coil, and fuel injector on cylinder one. It still has the misfire.
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2002 Passat 1.8T
Backstory. The P0411 code shes had for quite some time. I think probably 4 years maybe. Just never did anything about it because I guess they are expensive to fix. Thats the SAIP and combi valve correct? Anyway to remove all the emissions stuff and get the codes deleted?
So, about 3 weeks ago, maybe a little longer i cleaned her engine bay, replaced a few vacuum lines because the shop she took it to last year did a terrible job. Mind you, they did a head gasket, timing belt and some other minor things while they were in there. And they couldn't take the time you run new vacuum lines, since they just cut the originals and used a bunch of t fittings to "solve" the problem.
Anyway, i replaced the lines and it seemed to run better at idle, still had a little mis at idle but ran smooth at speed. I also did an oil change, put some fuel injector cleaner in it, put some seafoam in the oil, and cleaned the engine bay thoroughly. I did it properly and took all the plastics off, cleaned them, scrubbed the bay and used an air hose to get rid of the excess water. Left in a nice state. Ran smoother, looked better, so on and so forth.
Fast forward to last week, and she mentions to me her car isnt running right. Its sputtering, hesitates, running rough, exhaust is puttering, and it used up a lot of gas. She parked it for a few days, and i came down to look at it. Mind you, i don't have a code reader. So I looked at it blindly thinking it had an ignition issue. Nothing could have changed that quick since i looked at it.
So, today we got one coil(just in case ones bad), and 4 new plugs (Autolite Iridiums). Replaced and gaped the plugs to .030, torqued to 23 ft/lbs and started the car. Seemed to run a bit better, but subsided quickly. I then pulled each coil harness plug to make sure it would misfire on each cylinder and it did. So, new plugs and the coils checked out. Time to get its codes read.
Took it to the Pepboys and the codes it came back with were the P0011, P300, P0301-3. Cleared the codes and they came back nearly immediately. I had the dreaded P0011 code. The misfire codes im guessing were from the coils being pulled on each one, and also due to the P0011. Now i read a lot of threads about the P0011 and how its usually not the camshaft position sensor. However, i pulled the plug on that while the car was running and nothing changed. So i thought it could be the CPS. Changed that out and still nothing.....
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2009 corolla 1.8l 155,000 miles. Replaced iridium spark plugs at 100,000
I got a CEL few weeks ago, P0301 Toyota - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Car has been running bad for about 2 weeks now, excise noise on the highway, especially up hills.
Yesterday, I took a look, replaced the spark plug in cylinder 1, same results. Checked the coils using one of those flashing tools, all 4 flashed quickly, with no breaks in flashing. put it all back together, cleared the code, went home.
Took it out for a drive today, and it started running way worse. Checked the CEL, and now I have both P0301 and P0303 Misfire on cylinder 1 and 3. Barely made it home, ran VERY VERY bad.
Got home, and made a video of it. It just kept dying. Check it out here. [URL] .....
Also, when it does run, it almost sounds like I can hear excess air, its hard to hear in video, but doesn't sound right. Maybe air leak? How do I check?
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Been suffering some take off shudder as well as the 55mph shudder and finally took the truck into the dealer who informed me it is throwing a couple of misfire codes (no CEL). Quoted for spark plugs. Looking around the boards, seems a lot of people are seeing premature wear on the ecoboost plugs and have had success regapping or replacing. Any words from 5.0L owners? What are the odds they just need regapped? I'll probably just replace them anyway, but its a good discussion. Also are they are simple to replace as it looks- just pop the coil packs off and they are there in the valve covers?
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I bought a 2011 F-150 a year ago. Today was I driving my truck like usual and for some odd reason, it revved up to 3500 and then my truck shooked like I hit a big pump. I'm debating whether I have a faulty transmission or something. I barely touched the foot pedal. I wasn't evening barely putting any pressure on the accelerator and for some odd reason, it revved up that high and something shook my truck. I know a little bit about vehicles, my transmissions are not my thing. I'm gonna' take it in Monday morning to work.
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Just pick up a 2010 FX4 with the 5.4. Noticed at idle with the A/C on 75% of the time my truck is shuddering at idle. If i turn the A/C off it goes away. Common sense is that i know the the A/C draws a lot from the engine but have a shudder like that? The P/O's ESP transferred to me so i can take it in if need be.
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Extended cab ecoboost 2x4. Shudders as I come to a stop while in 1st gear. Feels like it's something to do with the transmission. Haven't taken it in yet. Not towing/hauling.
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New start for an old problem. 2010, F-150, 5.4, 5.5' bed. Truck is new to me, used 105K miles. Love the truck, got it to tow TT I was having trouble towing with a shorter wheel base vehicle. Has HD towing package, tows great, good power, stable. First trip out with the TT the ole Shudder in 2nd gear low speed reared it's ugly head. I did do the slip joint re-lube with Ford wonder grease.
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2010 F150 5.4, 6 speed... I am fast approaching the end for the factory 60,000 mile drive line warranty. I have had the slow speed 0-2 miles per hour shudder since 3,000 miles. The shudder downshifting from 2nd to 1st when stopping. As well as the highway shudder when gradually accelerating above 55 mph (empty and loaded)
The dealer that I purchased the truck from has driven with me several times and experienced the problems. They reflashed the computer at 5,000 miles. it made the shudder frequency double. i.e., twice as rapid. Reflashed again with no change.
I finally called Ford Motor Company, and they were surprised that I had not filed a complaint earlier. They followed up with the dealer.....who's service dept opted not to work on the vehicle again. I am now working with another dealer, and will be starting from scratch.
Long story short. I see that some have replaced torque converters, transmissions, clutch plates, valve bodies, and on and on....
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In june of 2014 I purchased a 2012 F150 Harley Edition with the 6.2 for my wife to use as a daily driver. I told her that she could have any vehicle she wanted and she chose the White Harley Truck.
It is a Ford Certified Pre Owned and we took delivery with about 30,000 miles on the odometer.
From the test drive in June 2014 until today the truck has had two distinct issues with the rear end and suspension:
1. After coming to a normal stop (at a light) when you start to accelerate (on green) there is a distinct thunk that is heard and felt. Having owned other vehicles with a slip yoke drive shaft I knew right away that the slip yoke needed to be cleaned and lubricated and that is how the dealer repaired this issue. The repair lasted about 10,000 miles and the thunk started again recently.
2. Also after coming to a normal stop and then accelerating there is a vibration felt until the mass of the truck is moving along at about 20 MPH. It's not a vibration like a wheel/tire is out of balance it's more like the whole vehicle is shaking similar to the Space Shuttle Experience ride at the Kennedy Space Center. The shudder is severe enough that my elderly neighbors asked if the truck "was going to make it without falling apart" when my wife and I took them to dinner one evening. The Shudder is exponentially worse when towing any kind of trailer. I have a tandem axle car hauler to haul a 1992 Jeep YJ to various events and the whole setup might weigh 5000 LBS max which is well under the tow capacity of the truck. To say the shaking is violent is putting it lightly.
When I took it in for service, the dealer told me that it was my fault for riding around with the locking differential locked. I told them nice try and that I know what a locking diff is and how to use it because I have two of them in my Jeep. I then took the service advisor for a ride, made him verify the diff is off and demonstrated the problem without even leaving the parking lot. At that point he acknowledged the condition I left the vehicle with him again. The repair the dealer made was to change the rear differential fluid and called me to say the truck was ready.
I drove back to the dealer again (35 minutes in light traffic) where I was presented with the vehicle. I didn't have to leave the lot before I knew it still was not fixed and pulled back into the service lane. I was greeted by the advisor who then proceeded to tell me it was "characteristic of the vehicle." I was completely frustrated and took my truck with it's "characteristic" shudder home.
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Been doing a lot of reading about shudder/vibration on the 2011+ F150's and it seems to all center around the two piece driveshaft found on the longer wheelbases and more during take-off than other times. I have an '11 5.0L 4x4/auto with the 145 wheelbase and the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft and am experiencing a shudder in 3rd gear primarily, most noticeable during light acceleration with medium load (like gently accelerating up a slight incline).
When this is occurring I can see the tach needle fluctuating just slightly (maybe 50-150rpms, just barely bouncing) but I have no check engine light and the only time I have take-off shudder is under hard acceleration which feels like axle hop (which isn't too rare on soft leaf springs with 360hp engines!).
Anyways, this 3rd gear shudder is very soft and nobody has noticed it that has rode in the truck with me, but it sure feels like the old AODE/4R70W trans would when the fluid was getting old and the TC started to shudder during "soft" lock. 5.0L? Certainly could be a miss, though power is good, mileage is great and no CEL is lit...
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Well, just picked the truck up from the dealer. Had to pay for the shudder diagnosis which turned up a #8 misfire as well as lesser random misfires on the mode 6 test (no CEL) since it out of B2B warranty. Also brought up the transmission issue I have been having. Virtually every morning when I go to pull out of the driveway, when I put the truck in park it was quite violently slamming into gear, even if I let it idle long enough to drop the neutral RPM's.
Service writer was a bit baffled, but after touching base with their driveline technician, and verifying it was in no way similar to how any other F150 engages they were able to locate TSB 11-11-11 which, to me, seems primarily concerned with the harsh 1-2 and 2-3 shifting but also noted the harsh engagement.
Anyways, they squeezed me in over night and in 2 days had my parts in and installed (apparently on these trucks they have to physically get the numbers off the solenoids to be replaced as there are a couple options). 3 solenoids tested bad and were replaced under the powertrain warranty. Truck did not slam when I picked it up, looking forward to testing tomorrow morning!
The best part is that when the tech went to drive the truck in this morning to start working it not only slammed into gear for him (verifying my concern) but it also demonstrated the violent 1-2 upshift. Too bad they couldn't push a spark plug through warranty, guess I'll have to wait for my Rockauto order to come in
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I purchased a 2011 F150 XLT 4X4 Super Crew in early January, since then I have had it into the dealership many times to correct an annoying shudder that can be seen (looking at the steering wheel) and felt as the truck accelerates. The shudder happens around 5 kph or 3 mph and then quickly disappears as you accelerate.
This is extremely annoying in stop and go traffic and is more readily felt if driving up hill. The dealer tried shims in the differential, Installed a new rear drive shaft, U joints and the last attempt was a complete rear end all to no avail.
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My son has a 2013 Fx4 crew cab 4X4 ecoboost with 8500 miles. He says in the morning for the first couple of miles while accelerating gradually the trucks shudders when shifting gears. After a few miles it goes away. Dealer says they can't do anything endless he can duplicate the condition. He went out of town for a few days and left me the truck so I'll drive it in the morning and see what it does.
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I hooked up the boat and went out for a tow. I ended up getting a pretty good vibration and thought maybe it was time for balancing the trailer tires. As it turns out I needed two new tires as they were at the wear bars (cheap crappy bias ply tires) so I ended up buying 4 trailer tire radials and had them balanced.
As it turns out I have what I guess is a shudder at slow speeds and also can feel it at other speeds as well. A way to explain it is that it sort of feels like you are driving over the rumble strips on the side of the road but really small ones.
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I've got a 12 FX4 SC 6.5' w/Ecoboost. After 1K miles I began to develop a shudder/shake in the tranny-driveshaft passing through 1500 rpm. 4 dealers, 6 overnights and 2 escalations, I finally am told there is a design problem in the pre Jan 12 trucks. Fixed with frame mod to manufacturing process after Jan, but no solution for current owners with the problem. I replaced my 07 FX4 SC with this truck and loved it for the first 1K miles. Now I hate driving it, especially in traffic (lots of cycles through 1500 rpm).
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