Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Shock Absorber Leaking - Lower Control Arm On Front Driver Side Covered In Fresh Oil
Jan 18, 2015
I noticed a pool of very clear oil on my garage floor. Looking under the truck I can see the lower control arm on the front drivers side covered in fresh oil. It looks like it's the shock absorber leaking. I just rolled over the 4,000 mile mark. I'm dreading taking it in to my nearby dealer. This is most likely a week long fix with how they operate. 2014 FX2...
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Yesterday evening my wife was following me down the road for a few hours, we are moving some stuff between houses. After 20 minutes she called me and said she could see occasional sparks under the truck,
Sparks?
A side of the road discussion determined she was seeing sparks near the drivers side rear shock absorber. I looked closely at that area and could not see anything that looked burnt. I felt the shock, axle tube, brake, brake line and E brake cable, but nothing was hot.
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I have a relatively decent standard of DIY mechanics, but I have never worked on a Hyundai before.
I have a leak coming down the drivers side rear shock absorber (the bit that bolts onto the swing arm) this has obviously resulted the the rear of the car riding low, but, is there something I can take apart and replace or do you have to replace the whole thing.
it seems likely that it could just be a seal broken somewhere.
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Took it in for an oil change at 90k miles dealer reported a leaking rear right strut and quoted over 1000k for replacement which i obviously declined. Now wanna know what are my options can I change just the one rear side which is leaking and do I have to put the oem or can I put anything aftermarket.
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My driver side rear strut/shock has started leaking recently (I've attached a pic). Its counterpart on the rear passenger side is bone dry. My Prius is a 2010 with 78,000 miles, mostly city driving.
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How to stop a squeaking front shock. It's my drivers side front shock only. The shocks are fine as far as wear and ride, it's just this squeaking (very noticeable in parking lots) that's about to drive me crazy!!
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First off I have a 2009 F150 4wd 4.6L truck...we have noticed a grinding noise on the front driver side wheel...we have replaced the auto locking hub acuator and the hub assembly but the noise is still there....it has us puzzled now not sure what it could be. I have read many different threads on this issue an it seems that it might be something to do with the vacuum. The noise is only on the driver side and only in 2wd, when its in 4wd it doesn't make the noise at all. Also while in 2wd the noise seems to go away when we let off the gas.
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I found out the rear driver's side shock was leaking oil after I jacked up the car to take a look at exhaust options for the car. 3 of the 4 shock are clean and show no signs of oil.
Is this a defective shock or a pothole destroyed it?
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2011 F150 Limited 4wd 6.2 liter. I just bought the truck a few weeks ago with 26,000 miles. Late last week I began hearing a mild grind/rustling noise that appears to come from the driver's front. It's not terribly loud (loud enough to hear), but it's annoying. It happens when I slow down (on and off the brake and below 25-30 mph) as well as let off and begin to speed up. It doesn't last but a second after I let off the brake and speed up though. The kicker is it does not happen all of the time. I drove it home from work last night and it did not do it one time, but driving to work this morning it happened every time I did what I described above. I have taken it to our local tire/suspension shop and they claim they could not reproduce the sound which does not surprise me. They did a full inspection and found nothing.
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I have a 2wd 2011 F150 90K with grinding noise coming from the drivers side front tire. Even though it was happening when coasting I thought it might be pads but they are real good. Turning the hub with no tire on it I can hear a little grinding. So I suspect bearings. I want to remove the hub but can't find out how to pull that off.
Where I would expect to find a spindle nut there is an area where it looks like you put a puller in. Can't find any videos or other information on the "Internets". Maybe I'm the first to have bad bearings? Anyway, how to remove the hub?
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What is the size of the bolts on the rear axle that hold the shock absorber? I believe its an M12 x70 mm long??
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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So, in changing a rotor today, I noticed the entire top bolt of my shock absorber (rear left) was sheared in half. I researched replacements and saw the staggering price tag. In 8 years with this car (2003 Gx470) I've never once changed the shock mode from sport to comfort or vice versa. Am I correct in assuming that I can by a decent aftermarket shock as a replacement and not hook up the electronics and only lose the ability to adjust the shock from the cabin? I will still retain the ability to raise or lower the car, correct? If so, what is a decent and affordable shock to purchase? Also, while I am in there, are there any recommended bushings or other things to replace to cut down on squeaking and other noises?
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I am trying to replace my control arm but I am having a few problems,
1. the front bolt on the frame side just spins but doesn't come out.
2. I cant get the bolt in the spindle to come out, I have been hammering away at it and even broke 2 sockets trying to spin it, still cant get it to move.
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Just came back from a ride and since it's getting pretty warm here I decided to drive with open windows. At low speed I noticed a unusual squeak coming from the rear passenger wheel when I got over small potholes. This part of the car seems to shake really fast a few time before settling. I can also hear a drum like vibration in the car coming from that corner. I can feel an unusual bounce which take time to settle when it happen. I'm no expert but from what I read the usual suspect should be either a defective shock of broken control arm ? I'll get a nearby garage to take a look next week. Gotta admit, like some members pointed out, I'm surprised to see those kind of issues on a car which didn't even broke the 45000 miles mark yet... And that's for a car that I take really good care of and not used as a daily driver.
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Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
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I have koni seyup and my car is lowered all the way down all around. my front passenger side sits lower then the driver side.. I also have camber plates in the front. What u think could be the problem.
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I got under the car today to change the oil and noticed the front drivers side is about an inch lower than the passenger side its causing the inside of my tire to wear very badly.
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How do you get the front lower control arm bolt off of the passenger side? There isn't even enough room to get a short socket between the bolt and the oil pan...
I imagine I can get it off with a box wrench and some sweat. But then how do you torque it putting it back on? Crows foot?
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I changed the Passenger side with no problem , the driver side bolt is hitting the transmission oil pan. I am thinking of loosening the mounts and try to jack the pan up to get that 1 clearance or worst case drain the transmission take the pan off remove the bolt and put in fluid in. If I drop the the transmission pan is there a filter in there? also how much transmission fluid does it hold.
[IMG] ....
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If your experiencing a clicking noise coming from the lower right side of your driver seat, more noticeable over rough roads with pressure applied to the backrest, read on. After much trial and error troubleshooting, here's what worked for me.
I removed the tension on a small clock like spring located on the driver seat back right side pivot point. Since having done so, no more annoying clicking sound and I haven't noticed any difference or adverse side-effect in seat operation /adjustment. I've got photos....
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