Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Replace Rear Bumper And Trailer Hitch
Jan 22, 2016
My wife backed the truck into a pole and bent the driver's side bumper and one of the ears on the trailer hitch (the part that bolts to the frame). I bought all the parts that need to be replaced (the left bumper end, the hitch itself, and the plastic bumper cover), gut am hesitant to try to change it all myself. How hard is it to change out all these parts? Is there a write-up any where out there for this?
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I will be installing a Euro-type of hitch to my car and for that the rear bumper needs to be removed.
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My rear bumper is rusting pretty bad. I have polished several times, and it comes back worse every time. Its less than 2 years old and I have mud flaps. I brought it to the dealer today, and the writer was trying to pass it off as normal.
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Looking for the sequence and clip locations on a 2010 Prius III rear bumper cover to be able to remove and install a new bumper cover. What is removed and how many clips are involved?
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I was searching for instruction how to replace the chrome trim that appears to be a seperate piece of trim on the rear of the Phaeton. Mine has some issues on the passenger side and would like to remove it to have it either repaired or replaced.
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Installion of hitch and trailer wiring on a 2015 PIP?
I found ZERO posts about installing a Curt 11276 hitch on a 2015 PIP. Or installing ANY OTHER hitch on a 2015 PIP.
Same applies to adding wiring for towing a trailer behind a 2015 PIP.
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A parking garage backed my 2012 Yukon XL into a cement wall. The trailer hitch is pushed back from its original position at least 3-4 inches. I took it to a dealership today and they said the frame is bent, but they could repair it.
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How to remove and possibly replace the rear bumper cover on a 2003 camry?
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My father has a 2009 F-150 with almost 25,000 miles. (he leaves it in garage and polishes it weekly) He just purchased a new dual axle trailer with electric brakes and led lights. When we hook up the trailer and press the Brake, turn signal or hazards, we blow a under hood fuse (48 if I remember correctly). When connected to either of his other 2 trailers, everything works and no issues. When I connect my 2014 suburban, the new trailer works perfectly. He does not have a brake controller installed on the F-150 yet. It does have the 7 pin and 4 pin plugs under the bumper.
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I have a 2012 Ford 4x4 crew cab 150 xlt. 15,000 miles. When pulling my dump trailer I was stopping to turn and the transmission disengaged. Once I turned the corner coasting the transmission kicked back in again. During this happening pushing the gas did nothing but rev up engine. My dealer said if this happened that a warning light would of came on or a wrench would appear on dash but it didn't. He said then it didn't happen. This happened 3 times in 10 miles of driving. I had it in tow mode.
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Today while towing a 10ft trailer with a golf cart my truck seemed kind of under powered.It has the 5.0 with 3.73 rear end.When I got to where I was going I looked under my truck and there were spots all over the rear end and axle and frame that looked like oil or transmission fluid. I cannot find any noticeable leaks. The air temp today was 100 and the transmission gauge stayed around 200.
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I have a 2011 Ford F-150 XLT. I did take the fuses out of the glovebox and installed them. So trailer lights and blinkers work fine. I just purchased a small teardrop tailer. My problem is that the trailer lights are always on when plugged into the truck.They are on even when lights are off and key is out.
I am assuming that the problem is with the wiring of the trailer harness but I wanted to ask here first in case the problem might be with the truck. I have never had a trailer so I am unsure if the 7 prong plug is always hot. Obviously it is on my truck. Is this way it should be?
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Ok we have a 2012 F-150 and are trying to hook up a 16ft trailer but have no lights. We know the trailer wiring is fine (works on other vehicles) but we have no power at the 4 pin trailer connector. We have checked the fuses and all are fine. Having this problem on a 2012?
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I just bought an electric tongue jack for my utility trailer. Rather than mount a battery on the trailer, I bought a jack that has a 7 way plug, so you just plug into the truck in order to power up the jack. However! My '13 Platinum F150 appears to have a very smart 7 way plug. If I plug in the trailer, everything works fine on the trailer.
If I unplug the trailer and use my tester to check the power inside the 7 way plug on the truck, there is nothing. So when I plug in the jack, which only has 2 tabs on it's 7 way male - positions 4 and 1 (positive and negative since they are red and black) it does not turn on. I wired direct to my battery from the jack 7 way plug and jack works fine.
So I'm guessing that the 7 way plug is not powered up until it senses a trailer is plugged in somehow? Is there a way to override this? Also the 4 flat on the truck was dead when I put the tester to it as well. Maybe same thing? If not, I'll have to hard wire the jack into the trailer wiring harness as a work around I suppose.
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I have read and re-read the owners manual fuse section. Can't find what fuse I blew. I do not have trailer brake or turn signal on either side. I do have running lights on the trailer. Which fuse or fuses control the brake and turn signal lights on a 2012 F-150 ecoboost. I had them all a month ago, but bought a new trailer and first time I pulled it the lights went out. Figured I blew a fuse, but can't find the one! No power at the receiver.
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Hooked up to my trailer and I have running lights but no turn signals, brake lights, or trailer brakes. I pulled plugged in my other vehicle to the trailer and everything works fine. My truck is a 2011 with the factory trailer brake control and pigtail connection. It worked fine last year.
I checked the connector with a test light and there is only power to the running lights. I then disconnected the plug at the back of the trailer connector and tested there and got the same results. Are there particular fuses or relays I should look at?
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2010 F-150 owner. Why my left trailer-stop/turn will not work on any of my trailers. This issues has happen to me in the past due to a wire grounding out in one of my trailers, I have fixed the issue in the past by changing the 20amp trailer/tow fuse, this time the fuse looks fine and I am still not having any luck finding the issue. I have went through my manual to see if it could be a different fuse and they all seem to check out ok, I have also messed around with the relays and they seem to be fine too?
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I bought a 2011 F-150 a year ago. Today was I driving my truck like usual and for some odd reason, it revved up to 3500 and then my truck shooked like I hit a big pump. I'm debating whether I have a faulty transmission or something. I barely touched the foot pedal. I wasn't evening barely putting any pressure on the accelerator and for some odd reason, it revved up that high and something shook my truck. I know a little bit about vehicles, my transmissions are not my thing. I'm gonna' take it in Monday morning to work.
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Just returned from an 8500 mile travel trailer trip with my 2012 F150 with EcoBoost. Couldn't be happier with how the truck performed. Did discover, however, that my 7-pin connector does NOT charge trailer battery while driving. Wasn't a problem this trip, but could be an issue when dry camping (no electrical hookup). Is it a big deal to get my connector to charge trailer battery while driving?
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On 2010 150 had running lights for approx 1 year on both 4 wire and 7 wire then none. Nothing changed, Checked fuses, all ok. Checked on back side of plug, nothing. Everything else works.
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Setup my Reese brake controller on my 2011 today. The lights, turnsignals, and brakes work when I push the brake pedal. But when I move the lever on the controller, I get nothing. Also, on the info screen, it still says trailer disconnected. What gives?
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