Just wondering if this would hurt anything or if it's a splash guard of sorts. There's been previous posts about the alternators being mounted too low on these trucks and getting water damaged over short periods of time.
View 14 RepliesI put on new Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk ceramic pads. I did the brake in runs and could feel the stopping power improving. When I got back to the house I looked at the rotors and I noticed that on the driver's side the pads are not parallel to the rotor. They are hitting on the outer edge of the outboard side and the inner edge (closest to the hub) on the inboard side. Took it all back apart and I can't see and reason for this. Double checked all the mating surfaces and didn't see any problems. I torqued the caliper brackets to 150 ftlbs and the lug nuts also to 150 ftlbs. Is it a problem the caliper sliders?
View 9 RepliesHow do you remove the pcv valve on 2011 5.0l. I don't want to break it .
View 1 RepliesHow to remove the spacer from the rear-end, spring and axle housing. If so, would it be the best to remove one at time etc. Must they be re-located below the axle or totally removed. I don't have a hoist to work from only floor jacks.
View 14 RepliesDo the 2010 5.4 motors still have any issues like the cam phasers or the spark plugs breaking upon removal? I'm looking at a 2010 F150 4x4 but I didn't want the headaches that might go with it since it has 80k miles....
View 14 RepliesI am looking at using a 2009 F150 XLT to rig up a soil sampling truck. I was hoping to remove the front-passenger and front-centre seat to make room for a probe that will go through the floor into the soil. As I was looking through articles to see if this was possible I read that some newer models dont make this easy, as there are air bag sensors and seat belt sensors that screw up the process. Before going out to look at the truck and make an offer, I was wondering - if there are any tips for removing these seats.
View 3 RepliesTrying to install some nice seat covers in my '11 supercab and can't seem to figure out how to remove the rear seat back. What is the combination?
View 2 RepliesInstalled the Rough Country winch mount yesterday. One hour, by myself. Used a floor jack to lift it in place.
Only problem was removing the plastic molding which came in the spot the fairlead will be. Just a small rectangular plastic molding with a couple of bars down the middle for looks. It had two screws on top edge, and two pushpins on bottom , but also was molded with two catches on each side on the back I did not see. When I figured it out, and squeezed with just my fingers, little too hard and snapped one catch on each side. They slide into a slot and catch but wont be doing that ever again. Oh well.
As for mount, solid and easy to install. I used hand tools as the air gun would only hit one of the bolts for the front tow hooks. The other was blocked by plastic molding. No big deal.
Hidden Winch Mounting Plate for 09-14 Ford F-150 Pickup [1010] | Rough Country Suspension Systems.
The heater control knob cracked on my 2011 Ford F150. Where I can get a replacement and how to take that off?
View 2 RepliesI thought id tackle installing my new boss intake this morning and didn't think to clean everything up enough and after i removed the fuel rail some dirt and small stones one was about a quarter of in inch round fell into the injector hole. I no that all will be in the engine now and I feel awful about it.
View 14 RepliesWe all know the front door speakers on these are horrible. I am changing them out all the time under warranty for being blown. In doing so I decided it was time for a video on how to remove the door panel without damage to get at the speakers and swap in aftermarket etc.
2009+ Ford F150 Front Door Speaker Replacement- Door Panel Removal Procedure - YouTube ....
The headliner by the front windshield is starting to come off the foam headliner. It's a small portion now but can get worse over time. It's not enough to warrant replacing the whole headliner, so I was wondering what can be a temp solution for now. Hot glue, thumb tacks, tape? I only noticed it because I had the windows down and the wind must have caught the fabric and made it flap around.
View 3 RepliesI purchased a 150 from 5 months on the lariat model year 2009, until a few days ago everything was ok but then I turned the light on the dashboard - sool service engine - the engine is fine but under a traffic light with the engine idling trygo off .
View 6 RepliesI've been chasing this misfire for about two months now. I have changed all eight plugs, changed the coil and even change head gaskets. After all of that I'm still getting a misfire on cyl3 code. I've inspected the resistance from the fuel injectors, they are all about 12ohms. What else do I need to check before I sell this thing off?
Background: It has just under 130k miles and I have had zero problems until it got cold this season. Once the mornings hit about 20F degrees I had a check engine light come on. Maybe a little bit of a shake at first but after it warms up it drives excellent. It has never sounded like there is a misfire, it has always ran smooth.
I didn't pick up the Raptor--passed on it for other reasons. I still have my 2010 that I bought with an extended warranty--I'm too old to play with them anymore and rather have everything covered.
When I bought my truck it was a factory certified pre-own so I got the 100k warranty plus an extended bumper-bumper coverage.
With that said I have the 5.4L engine and I've noticed here recently that's it is quite sluggish at times. I've read and most say put a tuner on it--in the past I would be all over that. My old 6L Diesel had a tuner but of course during that time I was all for blowing up engines and replacing them. Now not so much.
I noticed that the previous owner threw a damn Airaid intake on it -- I feel like the Airaid is really screwing crap up. I'm wondering if I should just buy the pieces I need to go back to a stock airbox?
I bought a certified 09 F150 Platinum a few months ago and after 4 trips to the dealership service department, I continue to have a problem with an intermittent engine light. The 1st time they replaced the o2 sensor. The second time they said a connection was loose to the sensor and repaired that. The 3rd time they replaced the PCM and catalytic converters. The 4th time, they replaced the o2 sensor again saying it was a new part that had been redesigned. When I stopped for fuel on the way home, the light came on again and has cycled on and off ever since.
When I called after the 4th time, the service guy said Ford engineers said I was getting bad fuel. I buy fuel from many places just like everyone else in Florida. I use 87 octane as recommended in the service manual mostly with 10% or less ethanol. The dealership service dept has said they have been working with Ford engineers directly but can't seem to get it fixed. The truck seems to run and perform fine. The only constant predictable thing about the engine light is that it will always turn off after the truck goes through the carwash!
Looking for the average oil consumption on the 5.0L V8 engine.
Dealer service indicated the 5.0L uses oil.
If so, why does this engine consume so much oil.
Have towed or driven Class C MH for years, now have 2014 F150 Ecoboost. Pulls great.
Question: while towing up long incline, engine got hot, shot message through dash saying truck would shift gears to ovoid overheating. I have read I should lock out 5 and 6 on slow steady climbs. If I am in tow mode and want to downshift, how do I do that? I know I can shift entire thing to 2nd gear - but I assume that is not what we are talking about here. On this particular climb it was hot (100 out) and I was blocked in left lane going slower than I would have liked. RPMs were low.
Looking for detailed description of process. I also regularly use Tow/Haul. Sometimes on decline I will downshift to 2nd or 1st and not use brakes at all going down.
Basically, when I just cruise in say 6th gear, and then step a little on the gas (or there is a hill), the engine rpm's jump up by like maybe 500 rpm's without a noticeable increase in speed, and there is no downshifting either.
I am sure this is normal, right? So what is the transmission doing? Coming from manuals only in the past, this seems strange.
My 2009 f150 5.4 v8 went from 18 MPG to 13 MPG and the check engine light is on?
View 7 RepliesI recently posted a thread about my 2011 5.0L F-150 making a knocking sound that I was unsure about. Here's a link to that thread. [URL] ....
But my question here is about oil. My truck is still making that damned noise, it seems more audible sometimes and less so others. But it ONLY happens when the engine gets warmer. The noise is completely absent when I do a cold start in the mornings. I've been trying to figure out if it always made that noise or not...I do remember a few years ago when the truck was brand new, pulling up at a drive through window for coffee and noticing that there seemed to be an excessive amount of engine noise echoing off the brick building. But other than that it never sounded out of place to me.
I only started noticing this knock after my most recent oil change, which for the first time ever in this truck, I went from using the Standard issue Motocraft 50/50 synthetic blend oil to using Mobile full synthetic.
Now, I could be totally off base with this...But is it possible that my trucks engine is making more noise due to the thinner synthetic oil? I am considering going back to the MC 50/50 blend oil to see if it makes a difference. Also it's worth noting that this knock really only seems to be present below 1000RPMS. When I'm actually driving and pulling between 1500 and 3000 RPMS the engine itself sounds and feels as smooth as butter. On that note, it idles perfectly smooth as well...It's just the noise below 1K RPMS.