Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Rear Running Light And Plate Lamps Out
May 23, 2016
Looking for a wiring diagram for my 2015 F-150? I have recently lost my running tail lights and licence plate lamps. Visually checked every fuse and found no problems there. I put in LED tail lights a couple weeks ago and they worked fine then noticed one day my tail lights weren't on when headlights were. Front running lights work fine. If I could get a diagram to start tracing wiring back that would be great.
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After installing the autospring 2" Leveling kit and the rear add a leaf 1.5" I was wondering if its at all possible to add a slight steel plate between the spacers and rear leaf to get just a little more lift.
I have access to our shop where I can get the steel and get it cut and drilled accurately, just wondering if this will cause any issues be adding additional plate?
Like for the front add it between the spacer and strut and in the back, when when I was adding the new leaf it had some shims I guess in between the leafs, so just curious if I could add the plate under the leafs?
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One of my light bulbs for the rear license plate light is out.
what kind of light bulb I need to get?
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After about 5 miles from my normal place to purchase fuel, My truck bagan to run bad and the check engine light kicked on. Mileage dropped to about 8 MPG. This morning, the truck would not start and after 2 can's of dry gas, I was able to start it (barely).
I stopped at the place where I purchased fuel and at least they admitted that they has to shut down yesterday, stating they received a bad batch of fuel from their source.
Now the fun begins...How do I get the "bad gas" out of my truck?. I now have about 1/4th of a tank. I tried to run a line to siphon the gas and I can not get a line far enough into the tank.
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My Ultra white IS350 is 15 months old, and when I took out the screws to my license plate today, I noticed a little bit of rust on the mounts (where the screws would go into).
I believe this is a pretty common issue for all cars - essentially, the mount was sprayed with body paint, but the paint would be stripped when you put a screw in. It's just a matter of time before that happens.
I am just concerned it would rust through my trunk if I continue to leave it.
FYI: I already use stainless steel screws
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I was loading some 2x4's and one hit the rear tail light housing and broke it easily. Hard to believe it broke so easy. Will be picking up a new one at the dealer! Wish it was made out of high impact plastic . You can't just get the clear cover. You have the buy the whole unit.
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My wife's 2010 Lariat, has a problem with the heater switch. Its stuck in one speed.
Also the rear defogger switch doesn't light up. We don't know if the switch to it is just bad, OR if the whole system is bad.
Was also wondering if the blend door would be bad??
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what size bolts are needed for the rear license plate?
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I picked up a 2014 F350 CC a couple months ago and have finally driven it in the evening. I went to turn on the first row map lamps and the light did not illuminate. I could turn it on with all of the interior lights, but not just a single map lamp. It also works when the door is opened or the RKE unlocks the truck.
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I found some threads about changing the license plate light on a 2009 Hyundai Accent and all of them involved removing the plastic trim inside of the hatch. However, I saw a few people mention that they broke a few plastic clips. I want to prevent breaking any clips.
Also, this ( hyundai-forums.com/184-mc-2006-2011-accent/94825-2009-accent-replacement-bulbs.html ) thread says that the replacement lights for the license plate are 168 or 168LL, but other posters say that they replaced them with white lights. What code are they?
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I just bought this 2013 F150 and when I turn the key off within a few seconds the radio turns off and the screen says "battery saver, start the truck or ...". What does that mean? I want to listen to the radio with the truck not running. Is something wrong or is it a setting somewhere? The windows will still go up or down for about 10 minutes.
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Yesterday I replaced the battery in my 2013 F150. Since I did this, both running boards just stopped working. I checked the fuse, it is good. Is there a connector around the batter that I may have knocked loose?
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on my '13 STX, when you press the "unlock" button on the remote, the running lights come on and stay on for a while. It does this when I open the door as well. Is there a way to disable this? I really have no need for this feature and it will burn the bulbs out sooner.
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The truck always ran perfect till two days ago. went to start it in the middle of the day , it would barely start, when it did it was missing bad. then seemed to clear up a little after about 30 seconds but still missing. they thought they got some bad fuel. so they dropped the tank cleaned it all out and got new fuel, no change.
Him and a so called mechanic "kid from fire stone" played around switching coil packs around from the injectors with no change. He tells me that the two front cylinders , one on each side are not firing. that those two spark plugs are coming out fuel soaked after running the truck. He thinks it dropped a lifter or push rod popped out of place.
I took my A/E over and came up with codes p0106 - map sensor, and p0135 - 02 sensor. i cleared them and started the truck, shut it back off ran codes again. He also said they pulled the 02 sensor and it still ran the same.
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i just purchased a 2013 f150 limited truck and my husband was cleaning the battery cables and now the retractable running boards won't work. is there something we have to program now and if so how do i do it?
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I have a 2010 f150 super crew, last night when leaving my baseball game I was shocked to find my running lights and my regular beam lights don't work. My high beams work fine but nothing else. I'm pretty sure the lights are an after market light, but I'm not positive since I purchased it used. I looked in manual to check for a fuse issue but I don't see anything regarding the headlights.
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On 2010 150 had running lights for approx 1 year on both 4 wire and 7 wire then none. Nothing changed, Checked fuses, all ok. Checked on back side of plug, nothing. Everything else works.
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OK, I have looked everywhere I can think to look and can't fined anything on this. Dash lights how do you turn them off with the engine running. This is on a 2012 f150 xlt.
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I am experiencing a loud clunk sound at the end of the extension cycle. This is on the driver side and it appears to be associated with the back hinge assembly. Is there an adjustment for the length of travel? There appears to be a slight amount of play if I pull up on the aft end of the board. There is zero play in the front hinge on the driver side or in both front and back on hinges on the passenger side.
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I have a 2007 f150 pick up and all of a sudden my running lights (front and back), dashboard lights, fog lights and plate lights stopped working. I ckecked all the fuses with a voltmeter and all are working.
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I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
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