Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Power Window Functionality Is Reversed
Jul 23, 2012
Why in the newer Fords, the power window functionality is reversed compared to the older models (old was push forward to close window, push backward to open). I have an older 2006 truck, and it is the reverse of my 2011, and all of my previous vehicles that had power windows right back to their invention were opposite of my 2011..... Most days I push the switch the wrong way in both vehicles on account of this change. Never remember.
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We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
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I have a 2010 F150 Lariat Super Crew. The rear sliding window does not completely close. I have read a few posts about lubricating the cable and tapping the window motor. I have leather seats with the rear arm rest, but cannot locate the window motor. I have lubricated the cable, on both sides while someone opened and closed the window.
I have attached a picture. The small metal crimp hits the black plastic stopper and the window is still open a crack. It is as though the window slid open more from its original spot. The small metal crimp hits the black plastic stopper and the window is still open a crack.
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To start out with, Leaky rear window.
It is definitely a leak around my back window, passenger corner. I have personally watched water run in and not run out the back, but in my cab. My Issue is that I cannot find any info as to how to lower my back seats to access the screws required to remove the window.
My truck is a 2011 XLT Supercrew/Cab, whichever is 2 door. Full backrest and 60/40 seat split. below is a picture of my seat and behind the headrests where people say to dig around for a "pin" to pull up and then lower the seat, but it appears I don't have that option.
Back seat
Behind head rest
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I just installed a wet of weather tech (in channel) window rain deflectors/guards. the rear window deflector came with adhesive strips but not the fronts. Installation instructions say to leave windows up for 48 hours... My question about them is what is actually keeping the front deflectors in and seated? I've used the seating tool but dont understand how they can stay in the channel locked in when there's clearance on them.
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I recently purchased a 2009 FX4 Supercrew. So far so good, other than I am just noticing stains on the headliner near the back window. Looking at TSB 12-4-4, it looks like the truck has the leaky third brake light issue - or had it in the past. Of course I am beyond the factory warranty, but I was wondering if there was a way to tell if the previous owner had this resolved? Is it common, even if it was addressed previously, that the seal could go bad on this light again?
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I'd like to disable my rear window defroster but keep my heated mirrors. Reason being I don't won't my rear window to explode when I turn it on. I have a 2011 bought a couple of months ago. Could I pull the fuse and still have the mirrors on? I rarely use the back window as I use to side mirrors. Drive a 18 wheeler for a living.
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As the title says, my 2013 F-150 XLT lost all heater function and rear window/side mirror defrost function. It all worked fine this morning on the way to work but when I got out I had nothing. Looked at fuses under the hood, nothing is blown. Could it be a relay? The led lights in the buttons on the module still light up and I can hear the vent doors open and close when I change modes.
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I have a 2013 KR F150 SC 4x4 and have owned it since new. This big snow/ice storm that just came thru NC is probably the first time I have tried to use the rear window and mirror defrost . It does not work nor will the light come on the sync display. i pressed the button on the hvac as well as on the sync. My son says there is a TSB on this. I have 40,000 miles and the warranty is out. Also, its too cold to check the fuse today.
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My rear defroster on my sliding glass window doesn't work all the time. I make sure the window is completely closed. It sometimes comes on and other times it doesn't. Sometimes it comes on and immediately shuts off. The dealership says I will need a new window. The truck is 7 months out of warranty. I think a $52,000 truck should have a rear defroster that works a heck of a lot longer than 43 months, especially when it has only been used 3 times since I bought it. Is this a problem that any of you have experienced with you F-150's ? I love my truck and will live with the rear defroster not working before I replace it. I just feel that Ford should have better quality than that.
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Having problems with the auto-up feature on your windows? Mine seems to randomly stop working from time to time. Only the drivers side has the problem. When the truck was new the dealer re-programmed the computer and put a new window switch in. That worked for a while but the problem keeps coming back. I can easily do the re-programming sequence however the problem always comes back. I have a 2012 Lariat SCREW.
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I just noticed I'm getting a rattle from the power window panel on the driver door when the bass kicks in with the mark levinson system.
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I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 mins after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
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No power to the radio or cd unit. When I push the power button nothing comes on. Also my clock is flashing and I can't set it. What is the problem?
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Ok well here is the deal, I was on my way to work today and my 2009 F150 lost all power after I got it up to about 55 mph and my oil pressure gauge went down fast. I was on a 3 lane highway with no shoulder so I had to stop it in the far lane and the oil light came on when I took it out of gear and killed it. I got out and there was no oil anywhere so it did not leak out.
I started it again and the oil pressure gauge went up and then right back down. I had to have it towed to the dealership but I was just wondering what was the problem??? I believe it is either a sensor or the oil pump but leaning more towards a sensor.
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 L 4 speed Tran. and a identical 2010 F150 5.4L but with a 5 speed Tran. that I just bought. it seems to have no passing power. I reset the PCM driver adaptive memory and the truck does not seem to have any pick up as compared to my 2005. Could it be the throttle body position sensor or something else.
2005 has over 200k
2010 has 80k
both are extended cab 4X4
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2009 F150 4wd.. I have no - power windows, door locks, radio, blinkers, will not shift out of park, no dome lights. all started last night after it was parked for about an hour the lights flashed on their own and when I went to leave this morning all of this is going on. I have :
- checked fuses - good
- checked for codes - none
Truck runs fine, you have to press the shift lock button to get it out of park,runs like normal.
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The Passenger power window button on my 2009 sonata is broken. Any tips on how to fix it? additionally, looking for a good youtube or other video site for repair videos/tutorials?
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My 2012 3.5 ecoboost has a knock and power lag during acceleration. Dealer diagnosed as timing chain and cam shaft phasers. I asked if this was common and they said, "yes, it will happen to all of them at some point." Basically, he said if you baby the truck it will take longer, but still happen. Wasn't surprised I'm having it at 67k miles as he saw another recently at 70k. The power drop is dramatic, so I don't see any option, but to have the work done.
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Installed power fold in mirrors on a 2012 FX4? My truck does have power mirrors but not the fold in option.
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I just bought an electric tongue jack for my utility trailer. Rather than mount a battery on the trailer, I bought a jack that has a 7 way plug, so you just plug into the truck in order to power up the jack. However! My '13 Platinum F150 appears to have a very smart 7 way plug. If I plug in the trailer, everything works fine on the trailer.
If I unplug the trailer and use my tester to check the power inside the 7 way plug on the truck, there is nothing. So when I plug in the jack, which only has 2 tabs on it's 7 way male - positions 4 and 1 (positive and negative since they are red and black) it does not turn on. I wired direct to my battery from the jack 7 way plug and jack works fine.
So I'm guessing that the 7 way plug is not powered up until it senses a trailer is plugged in somehow? Is there a way to override this? Also the 4 flat on the truck was dead when I put the tester to it as well. Maybe same thing? If not, I'll have to hard wire the jack into the trailer wiring harness as a work around I suppose.
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