Yesterday I replaced the battery in my 2013 F150. Since I did this, both running boards just stopped working. I checked the fuse, it is good. Is there a connector around the batter that I may have knocked loose?
View 11 Repliesi just purchased a 2013 f150 limited truck and my husband was cleaning the battery cables and now the retractable running boards won't work. is there something we have to program now and if so how do i do it?
View 8 RepliesI checked a few fuses when my 12v power sources quit working and now the engine won't start. I get a start system fault and hill incline fault among other warnings. What happened?
View 2 RepliesSo this is my problem. So my driver's running boards lights weren't working, but my passenger side was, I had ordered brand new lights and bulbs so I decided to start with my driver side. After I had taken out the light itself and the bulb I found out that the connector was corroded and the new bulbs when I put them in wouldn't work, so I cut the wires and sliced new wires together probably very amateurly. I started with the backlight and that one went well then move to the front driver side running board light and after I had plugged in the light they all stopped working along with my power windows, my power seats, the interior dome lights, my mileage on my instrument cluster doesn't show anymore. By the way when I was checking this fuse box I noticed that 35 was blown which is a 10 amp fuse which goes to the instrument cluster, so I replaced it with a new 10 amp and it blew immediately what could be going on.
View 11 Repliesi have a 2013 Ecoboost Screw. This morning, I was leaving for work about 0445, and was pulling out of my driveway, when I realized my headlights were not on. I tried rotating the switch a few times off and on, and still nothing. I pulled back in my driveway and checked all fuses for headlights, both low beams and high beams. All good. My parking lights, turn signals, and tail lights all work.
When I got home from work tonight, I tried a few more things. I pulled the lamp housing and checked for voltage directly to the bulb. I get 0.9 VDC at one pin and 0 VDC at the other two. Not nearly enough to fire up a bulb. To a known good ground.
I opened the dashboard to check the harness at the switch itself, and when I unplugged it, all lights turned on (except the headlights). Is that a failsafe in case the switch goes out while driving?
As a last ditch desperate measure, I disconnected my negative battery terminal for about 15 minutes just to see if anything changed. I don't know where else to go from here.
The media button on SYNC quit working last week(2010 F150, six cd player, no navigation). No voice commands or phone, also can not perform the "Master Reset" because the phone button on dash does not work. I have had this issue before and pulling fuse 13 for a couple of minutes always fixed it. Pulling the fuse no longer fixes the problem. I also tried disconnecting the battery.
I left the cable off overnight and still no luck. I came across a similar problem being fixed by a ACM reprogramming TSB (SYNC (possibly) Fixed by TSB 11-10-22) on a another forum. Do reprogramming working on a dead SYNC system when the hard reset was tried and did not solve the problem? Dealer did not want to reprogram ACM and told me need a new APIM.
Does the Ford emblem/camera just pop off the tailgate with a screw driver? Pry from top or bottom? I'm trying not to break anything here. I removed the tailgate panel inside and can't get any access there.
Both the camera and reverse sensors have quit working. I'm troubleshooting both but I'm not sure they are related. The camera died first but worked sometimes after slamming the tailgate. Sensors quit sometime after. Don't really care about the sensors but the camera is essential for hooking up the trailers.
I was hoping the wiring from the tailgate to the plug would be cut but that doesn't appear to be the case. I'd like to check the camera itself next. Ohm it out or something, I don't know.
I took my truck to the dealer because my steering wheel buttons quit working as far as going forward or back between songs via bluetooth. The tech said the buttons don't work via bluetooth from the factory and I told him he was wrong. They worked in a 2007 Edge, 2008 F150, 2009 Fusion, 2009 F250, and until the day before, my 2012 F150. He said "You must be mistaken". I took it home, pulled Fuse 2 (Sync) waited a couple of minutes (Nice place for the fuse box, Ford) put the fuse back, let Sync load, repaired, etc, and my steering buttons now work again. I only use bluetooth with both my S3 and Note 2, so if your buttons stop working, do you always have to pull the fuse, or is there an easier way to fix this? That's the fix I found.
View 8 RepliesHave a '13 F150 Platinum. Recently three things "broke" at the same time and I suspect a fuse but cannot locate the right one. At first I thought it was just the GD Opener, but when trying to reprogram it, I realized the red lights were not lighting up and the Drivers side Vanity Mirror light was not working.
About the same time, I noticed that the Instrument Cluster Memory function quit working and weirdly, every time the truck is switched off and then back on, it always comes back to the trailer tow screen for my Snowmobile trailer.
I thought i had it solved when I found that the trailer back-up lamp relay power fuse ( #43 in fusebox under hood) was blown. I replaced with a good 15 amp fuse and the problems are still there. I have searched high and low and cannot find a fuse for the Car2u GD Opener or the Driver Vanity Mirror Light (neither Vanity light for that matter. I tested all under hood fuses, but the kick panel fuses are impossible to check one-by-one.
Replaced factory running boards w Amp research electronic running boards.
Now I wanna fill or cover the unsightly holes left by Factory running boards. Trim molding?
The 12 V power outlet on my 2009 Corolla has quit working. Checked the fuse and it is not blown still no adapter works when plugged into the socket. The car just turned over 36,000 so it's now out of warranty (good thing the water pump failed at 32,000). The owners manual only shows fuses in the engine compartment is a separate fuse block for the dash that could be blown or perhaps a disconnected socket or wiring problem. How to access the back of the 12 V power socket? BTW my dealer has informed me that since my cars VIN begins with J it is not affected by the gas pedal recall. Haven't seen this anywhere so thought I'd share it.
View 13 RepliesOn 2010 150 had running lights for approx 1 year on both 4 wire and 7 wire then none. Nothing changed, Checked fuses, all ok. Checked on back side of plug, nothing. Everything else works.
View 14 Repliesi have a 2011 fx4 the other day the power seat stopped working and i could hear a clicking sound coming from under the seat. I have searched on google and have found its very common on the older trucks to have a wire splice issue i was wondering if that applies to the 2011 or if there is any other common power seat issues.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 f150 XL. 4.6L The power steering would work one day and not the next and work again and so on. But now it just stopped. How can you tell if the pump or the rack and pinion is bad. My reservoir full of fluid. When I start the truck turn the wheels there's no whining sound. Should the fluid in the reservoir be flowing?
View 1 Replies1998 Expedition EB, the lights on my running boards do not work. Checked online and can not locate the fuse for them, checked the lamps and found one that is burnt out. Here's the dumb question, if one bulb is out will that make the other three not work, something like the Christmas light strings?
View 4 RepliesSo I went to start my truck this am. Fired up fine. Put it in drive and the check advance track light came on, 2 minutes later the oil pressure dropped to zero and truck quit at the same time. Checked oil and it was good, repeated same process 3 times. I just let it idle for ten minutes then it was fine.
View 8 RepliesI can't imagine i'm the only one. Driver and passenger doors are starting to drip rust onto my running boards.
what is the best route to take? I'd like to keep my ex for at least 10 more years.
Do the raptor style boards will work on an F250, 2012?
I hate the stock ones and want something closer to the body and has some rocker panel protection. Alternatives are welcome but not 1k ones.
Troubleshooting a problem with friend's 2000 F250. His power windows aren't working and are causing problems with his door locks and interior lights. When he tries to use his drivers side power window, his power door locks quit working. If he puts the switch to raise, the interior lights flash. From what I've read, it sounds like the GEM to me, we've inspected the wiring and it all looks good. I pulled it out today and it looks good inside, no sign of water leaks on it. If it is the gem, how much do they cost and do they require programming?
View 5 RepliesDRL quit working on my 2008 Avy.
View 6 RepliesI'm working on a 2005 F350 with a 6.0. The customer was driving the truck when it suddenly quit running and now it won't start. The only code stored in the memory is P2290 - ICP too low. With my scanner connected the IPR is showing 85% duty cycle and the ICP is only showing 5 psi while cranking. I disconnected the ICP sensor while cranking but still no fire, so I removed it and connected a pressure gauge which shows zero psi while cranking. I hooked up a cylinder leakdown gauge to the ICP port and with 100 PSI of air pressure I'm showing less than 2% leakage with the IPR energized at 60% duty. Thinking the hpop was bad I replaced it but still no change. I also tried a new IPR but no luck there either. I removed the oil filter cartridge and verified the low pressure pump is pumping oil while cranking. Could the inlet screen be plugged inside the oil cooler? I'm at a complete loss.
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