Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Oil Smells Like 2 Stroke
Jul 14, 2015
I have a 13 5.0l, right now its at about 36 k and the next oil change is scheduled for 39k (kilometers), starting today whenever I fire it up i get the change oil soon prompt on my cluster monitor. So I checked the oil and it is at a good level and looks clean, but it smells like 2 stroke/it smells like there's gas in it.
I will call the dealer tmo morning and see what they say. Has any one else ran into this issue with there coyotes or egoboosts? I did google the issue and it seems like a problem with a fuel pump diaphragm?
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Smells like antifreeze but i can't find any leaks or wet spots on the carpet and the coolant level is good where should I look. Just replaced heater core last winter.
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Drove 40 miles took half hour then back in the truck and drove to lunch. When I got out of the truck you could smell burning. Opened the hood but there was nothing to see. Coolant level in the plastic hold tank good checked oil level, okay. No sign of smoke but the smell was real. Went in had lunch and came out and nothing. no smell nothing. Drove fifty miles home and nothing every thing working perfect and no smell. Oil temp. 197 to 203 all the way home.
Only thing that was done on truck was last Tuesday Ford did oil change.
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I noticed that if i'm turning my car on for the first time in a day (12-24 hours) on a hot day (80F + ) , the compressor on the AC doesn't kick on for about 3-4 minutes. It just blows out hot air for those first few minutes. Once it kicks on and i turn the car off and then on again some time during the day the compressor kicks on right away and cold air starts to blow normally.
My RX350 pumps out cold air almost asap, and so did my accord. My AC seems to have a musty smell if it hasn't been turned on in a few days either. it goes away as soon as air starts moving. How do I get rid of this permanently?
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I have a question with aftermarket exhaust (particularly JoeZ and Borla) I was wondering after you installed the exhaust do you now get increased exhaust fume smells in the cabin when the windows or moonroof is open? When I had my 350(F-sport exhaust) I couldn't cruise with the moonroof open without filling the cabin up with fumes.
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For the past several months I have been noticing a mildew smell in my truck. Today it seems much more noticeable than ever. I have no leaks that I know of. Back in the first part of the summer we had very heavy rains and flooding here and I was in the middle of it, stuck in my truck overnight due to flooding. During that time I never noticed any leaks.
A couple of months ago I saw that there was about a half inch of water in the bottom of my glove compartment. (It's dry today.) I didn't find any wet spots in the carpet underneath. I thought maybe that some AC condensation had gotten in there somehow.
This morning as I was leaving for work, the smell was very noticeable and when I turned on the defroster I could definitely smell it coming out of the vents. What could be the cause?
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So I run a custom sct tune as my daily driver. Every 6 months or so my turbo starts acting funny. I get a weird turbo bark on wot. The shift pattern gets thrown off. It feels like something is about to break in a bad way.
But then it fixes itself. I return my truck to stock and run a couple laps down the highway. It blows smoke, stinks, and smells like something is burning for about 15 minutes then it is fine. I change it back to the custom tune and it runs fine for 6 months again.
What this is? Is this an egr valve or ebp sensor?
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This is the second time that this has been happening. Noticed that it only happens when I use tiptronic (manual). First time I was driving hard then floored brake become light turned yellow. Few minutes later, a rotten, sulfur, egg smell came out of no where and my sister thought I passed gas (when I did not).
Second time that happened was when I dropped off my friend late at night, went on manual but this time I drove casually & normally and didn't go crazy. As soon as my friend got off, there's more of a burnt smell then with a hint of a rotten egg that took place in my car.
My car is 2009 and has only 83k miles in it. Read to a similar scenario online and seems like my catalytic converter needs to be replaced.
I worried that my car is internally bad, should I bring it back to Toyota (where I purchased vehicle pre-owned) for a diagnostic?
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2006 overheats and starts blowing white smoke, smells like antifreeze, added 2 gals of water to make it 1 mile home. Smokes on the way @195 temp and when I shut it off it smokes out tailpipe for another 3 min. Smells like the head gaskets just went, what should I check? The eot and ect have been 10 deg or less.
This has 225,000 miles on it ran great before this, so would it be stupid too not get a redone set of heads while I'm doing the gaskets and studs?
I was thinking of getting heads from here, UCF Machine Shop - Precision machining, engine rebuilding and more. Cummins + Ford Rebuild Specialist. And a Sinister Diesel Complete Solution For Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L. Are these the right places to deal with or should I look elsewhere?
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Newbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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So I've been planning a trip to Phoenix, AZ and have been trying to figure out whether renting a little car with good gas mileage would be more ideal than driving my truck. So, I started doing the math with local gas prices and the MPG specs for my truck and it completely conflicts with what my instrument panel says how much miles I get from a full tank of gas.
My instrument panel shows I get roughly 350 miles for a full tank of gas (26g tank). This is well below my 15/21...
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Spent 6 1/2 hours yesterday driving back from my job to home in a snow storm. Conditions weren't too bad when it was solid snow floor the sections that had been plowed and had a 50/50 mix of packed snow and bare pavement were a little sketchy. It was my first drive in snow out side of driving around town since buying this truck. I spent most of the drive in 4 auto and in some spots switched to 4 high. When I was looking over the manual, I didn't see anything about maximum speed while in 4 wheel drive. I kept it under 50 the entire time since that was the cut off in my tundra. What is top speed while 4wd is engaged? another related question, Whats the difference between 4 auto and 4 high?
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2012 5.0 getting about 13 mpg other saying they get 17 mpg.....
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Looking at the specs, the screw 5.5' truck's cab height is 76.7" (4x4). For the 6.5' bed, that cab height is 75.6".
This seems to be true for most of the configurations: the shorter, the taller.
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I have a 2010 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4. It has around 63,000 miles on it. I purchased this truck last winter and recently have noticed a pretty heavy vibration when the AC is running. It only vibrates when I am at a stop. If I apply a little throttle the vibration seems to go away or it goes away if I shift to neutral. The vibration is not violent but it is above average and I would definitely not consider it normal AC vibration.
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I changed my Oil Saturday and noticed an oily wetness on the pan and couple of those "droplets" at the forward edge of the transmission. Its clearly motor oil. Im takin it in next week. Its not too bad to drive it but at only 14000 miles I am surprised.
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What is the code for an FX4 is? Reason I ask is when I go online to Ford dealer inventory listing it shows something like "F150 4X4 SS S/C" but I don't see anything like "FX4."
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