Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Noticeable Vibration At Low RPMs Both In Park And While Driving
Nov 21, 2014
I just purchased my brand new 2014 F150 4x4 STX 5.0L single cab short box about a month ago. I noticed when I drove it off the lot that it had a slight vibration at low RPMs. I boiled it down to brand new stuff working out all the kinks and running around for the first time, bought a brand new jeep in 2005 and it made interesting noises and had funny vibrations for a while, but this is starting to get annoying. I have a very noticeable vibration at low RPMs both in park and while driving, more noticeable at speeds between 35-45 with RPMs anywhere from idle to 1500 or so.
I have not had it at the dealer yet, I want to be armed with a little bit of knowledge when I go in an talk to them if possible. I know how stealerships work and since it seems similar problems are somewhat common in these newer F150s, I don't want to get the "oh it's common in these trucks and perfectly normal". In my opinion a brand new truck should run smoother than melted butter on hot flapjacks, especially one that only has 1400 miles on it.
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Just got my 2014 SCREW 6.5bed with eco boost. Truck has a high frequency vibration very noticeable at 45-55 MPH. So bad the rear view mirror is blurry. Took it to the dealer and they said the e-brake was dragging and fixed that and said the vibration was gone. Not gone. Did some searches and found a number people reporting vibration issues possibly related to drive shaft issues.
Took this video of the slip yoke at the T-case idling in first gear, sent it to the dealer and they said that's normal. I don't think that looks normal. Does that looks normal?
Slip Yoke at T-Case ...
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I just picked up my new 2011 F150 SCrew with Ecoboost on friday (pictures soon). I noticed after driving it a little, there is a noticeable burning smell...almost like an oil smell. It is even more noticeable after I had been driving with a little more throttle.. i.e. getting the turbos working a little. I attribute this to the normal coatings of oils on the parts but it still is a little concerning at times. I'm sure I'm worried about nothing and this is normal...
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Vibration in my 2014 Prius v (lowercase for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase) Three. It happens at all speeds but is most noticeable between 68-72 mph. It is felt throughout the car. I am about to go to arbitration with the state (Florida). I had a Lemon Law arbitration hearing with the Toyota sponsored program (NCDS), and the claim was denied. He said he could feel the vibration but it was normal vibration for highway speed. It was quite obvious he knew the Toyota reps too.
Toyota's solution to the issue at the "final fix" attempt was to install new Michelin tires and Road Force them. After getting the car back, I also found they had lowered the PSI in the tires to dampen the vibration but can't prove it. I put the PSI up to what is printed on the door and the vibration came back and got much worse after the tires were rotated.
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I own a is350 been having this problem. I drive the car get home put it in park and rps go to 1500 and stay there feels like my idle stays high...
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I have 2010 FX4 with 76,000 miles, 5.4L with automatic trans and the console shifter. Problem is, lately it doesn't always want to come out of Park when I try to go somewhere. I know that the brake pedal needs to be pushed in order to release the lock on the shifter. If I pump the pedal a couple of times it seems to release the lock eventually. Is there a brake pressure switch that actuates the lock or a switch on the pedal that needs to be made to release the lock? I have tried to search on here for a fix with no luck.
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2009 F150 4wd.. I have no - power windows, door locks, radio, blinkers, will not shift out of park, no dome lights. all started last night after it was parked for about an hour the lights flashed on their own and when I went to leave this morning all of this is going on. I have :
- checked fuses - good
- checked for codes - none
Truck runs fine, you have to press the shift lock button to get it out of park,runs like normal.
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I have a 2010 Lariat and it randomly gives me fits by not letting me shift out of park. This started yesterday and I want to know where to start looking so I don't get stranded in BFE! Its a center console shifter.
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My truck has a similar rough idle and I decided to investigate. What my plug gap was supposed to be as I didn't have access to my owners manual at the time. The specs I was given (.041-.047) is what I followed and recapped my plugs .045. The idle improved a great deal.
Now I was wondering and finally got around to checking my owners manual after I read somewhere that the gap for the 5.0 changed between 12 and 13 model years. What I found in my owners manual is that the gap I'm supposed to have is from .049-.053. My plugs were out anyway at .057. I will leave them be at .045 but am wondering why the change from .041-.047 on the 2011 model years to .049-.053 on the 2012+ model years? I assume the engine hasn't changed, so am curious of the thought process.
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Parked truck, went to leave and truck starts and runs fine, says brake problem on message, wont let me move gear selector out of park, is there a way to do this manually and get it to neutral so it can be towed??
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This is not on our F150, but rather our Flex that has the 3.5 Ecoboost.
Recently we have been having a bucking problem at lower rpms. Usually when taking off and hitting a slight grade. Doesn't really have a problem at highway speeds. Usually only on takeoff when it shifts through the gears. If you accelerate more, you can stop it for the moment. Weather doesn't make a difference. Also can feel a slighting surging sometimes and can see it on the tack. Like a 2 sec alternating surge. Doesn't do this all the time though. I have replaced plugs with iridium, gapped at 34.
I also purchased two motorcraft coil packs and installed them in different configurations as to see if I could isolate it. No change. I HAVE NO CEL YET. At all. Wish it would! I have tried to make it buck hard enough to throw the code to no avail. I have heard of condensation in the intercooler, but from what I have read it is a higher RPM symptom..This feels just like the COP problem on my 5.4. Unless I have 3 or 4 bad COPS and no CEL. If I could just get a code.
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Used to own a F250 so I am new to the F150. I am currently in a 2014 F150 fx4 with about 10k miles on it. I noticed when the truck is shifting into 3rd (normal acceleration)the rpms once in third remain around 1800 then drop to 1400ish after about 2 seconds or so while still in third (almost like its shifting again). What it is?
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I parked my 2010 F150 XLT at work and went inside, 10 minutes later it had rolled 25 feet and into a ditch.
My first thought was that I had somehow forgotten to put it in park but when I went over to the truck, I checked and it was still in park and the display "lit up" on the "P". Also, a buddy of mine pointed out that the key won't come out unless its in park.
And so my insurance is taking car of the damage but right now I'm driving around with my "parking rock" because my parking brake doesn't work and even if it did, I want to know the root cause of what happened for peace of mind that it won't happen again.
I never use the parking break and my truck was in 2WD at the time. Luckily it was a shallow ditch and so I threw it in 4WD and backed out.....
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Truck is stuck in Park, cant get it out. Tire Pressure Monitor Failure warning is blinkings as is the low tire pressure light. Emergency Brake light stays on, EM brake is not engaged. No Electrical working, lights, radio, AC.. I don't know what is going on with it...
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Basically, when I just cruise in say 6th gear, and then step a little on the gas (or there is a hill), the engine rpm's jump up by like maybe 500 rpm's without a noticeable increase in speed, and there is no downshifting either.
I am sure this is normal, right? So what is the transmission doing? Coming from manuals only in the past, this seems strange.
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I got a couple work trucks both 2010's with around 20k miles on them. Mine just cut off on me today while sitting at a traffic light. I wasn't even paying attention till the alarm started dinging at me. The other truck stalled on my employee while turning in to park. The weird thing is I have two truck doing the same thing what are the odds.
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I've had an issue twice with the truck stuck in park. Both times I pulled battery cables and it reset itself. This time is different; the truck is stuck in park, the chime doesn't work when you open the door, the screen flashes tire pressure monitor fault and the traction control light blinks on and off. Not only that, the radio does not work, nor does the heat/air. I've got to believe with that many things its the body control module gone bad? Truck is a 2010 crew cab with the 5.4 btw...
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So I drove my F150 to work as always, with no problems. I went to leave and it fired right up, but it wouldn't shift out of park. The emergency brake light was on even though the brake was not applied, the traction control light was on even though I wasn't moving, and the tire pressure warning light was on even though all tires are new and inflated properly. I removed the cables from the battery and brushed the contacts even though there was no grime on them, and when I went to start it, it just kept cranking without turning over. So I turned it to off and gave it one more shot and it fired right up, and drove like it was perfectly fine. Why this happened? I got 75k miles on it and have never had a problem...
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Engine vibration? Its pretty significant and is always present doesn't matter if your in park or driving. What to check...
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I have a 2010 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4. It has around 63,000 miles on it. I purchased this truck last winter and recently have noticed a pretty heavy vibration when the AC is running. It only vibrates when I am at a stop. If I apply a little throttle the vibration seems to go away or it goes away if I shift to neutral. The vibration is not violent but it is above average and I would definitely not consider it normal AC vibration.
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I have a 09 s crew with 6 1/2' bed also. Lariat, Max tow package (most of the cool toys) I bought it certified pre-owned in April of 2011.
My vibration is between 35 and 45 mph. Not felt in the steering wheel but all the seats feel it. Set the cruise at 40 mph and it will drive you nuts.Dealer has had it a couple days for this and all they have found was a sticky rear u-joint.
I am at 35,500 miles so I am thinking about just dropping it off and saying keep it till you find the problem.
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