Got a 2013 F-150 with a start problem after warm. If I let it sit with battery disconnected it will start up. When it will not start it acts like a no spark issue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2013 F150 FX4. When the temperature is below 45 and the truck is cold the right high beam wont turn off if used, until the truck engine is warmed up.
View 6 RepliesJust had my 2010 F150 in for a loud knocking noise when the truck has warmed up in drive and rpm up to about 800. I can't hear the noise when I disconnect the passenger side vtc selonoid. The Tech who worked on it has recommended replacing the motor. His troubleshooting on the ticket says he removed the coil from the number 4 cylinder and the noise he hears goes away. I just can't see that the motor is bad.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 F-150 FX4 SC 4x4 5.4l w/ automatic that has 52,000 miles on the clock give or take, unmodified with the only exception of a remote oil filter relocation unit.
I bought the truck with 48,000 on it and did not have this noise, I've had it back to the dealer and their best mechanic went for a ride with me and the noise was duplicated and the mechanic had the deer in the headlight look on his face and said he'd never heard anything like that before. I've searched the net for anything similar like this but have not found anything. The noise rears it's ugly head after the truck is warmed up and it first started around 55mph and went away at 65mph , then re-emerged at 75mph and left again at 82mph.
Tried the usual test things while noise was present first loading and unloading the steering left and right, (wheel bearing) no change. Next I applied the brakes (caliper rubbing) no change. Then I tried shifting to neutral (transmission or carrier bearing) no change. I also tried shifting into and out of 4x4 (transfer case) no change. If I speed up above those speeds or slow down below them, the noise disappears.
Recently... the noise seems to be more consistent and when it's present at 80mph and you let off the throttle, the noise is present all the way down to 55mph then magically goes away. The noise to me sounds like a vacuum leak in a rubber hose or a dry spinning shaft in a bushing, sort of a low hum that sounds like it's coming anywhere from the motor to the transmission area.
is there a diffrent spark plug socket too take out the plugs on the 5.4 3v motor cause i tried a socket i thought would work but i wouldn't go in the spark plug hole like what gives
View 4 RepliesThis is Just an FYI. I replaced the plugs in my 2011 F-150 3.5 Ecoboostwith 50,000 miles. I had a miss under heavy acceleration. Turns out the plugs had a gap over .090" and the side electrode was burned. Replaced them and all is well.
View 8 RepliesMy 2010 5.4 F-150 Lariat 2WD truck has 130,000 Miles on it and the gas mileage took a dive from 16.5 to 15.2. I'm over due to change the spark plugs. Are there any secrets or tricks I should know about before I get started changing them.
View 3 RepliesDo the 2010 5.4 motors still have any issues like the cam phasers or the spark plugs breaking upon removal? I'm looking at a 2010 F150 4x4 but I didn't want the headaches that might go with it since it has 80k miles....
View 14 RepliesOk so besides intercooler condensation causing misfires this is the #1 reason for misfires on this engine. Any misfires on this engine has great potential to damage the catalyst and should not be taken lightly. As many know by now boosted engines are hard on the plugs be it iridium platinum whatever and you may find the need for new plugs by 50k miles. More so now as many are coming in with carbon tracking as this one had. In this video I walk you through the procedure to change out plugs on these engines with the revised plugs, gap specs and TSB that have all come out recently.
Ford F150 3.5L V6 Ecoboost Misfires: Spark Plug Replacement - YouTube...
I have a 2009 F150 with 100,000+ miles on it. It will crank, but it won't start. It was sitting for 10 days while I was away on vacation. It was running just fine before I left. I though it might be the battery so I changed it and it still won't turn over. I read about a fuel pump driver module on the 04-08 models, but I'm not sure if the '09's have had an issue. My only thoughts would be the starter or the fuel pump.
View 6 Replies2010 STX with 4 speed (4r75E)... Yesterday morning when I was almost at work(20 minute drive) I went to accelerate from a stop sign and my truck acted like it was in neutral. Once the rpm's dropped to just above idle speed the transmission caught and I was able to accelerate as normal. I guess I didn't think much of it until I was coming home from work, again about 20 minutes of driving, when I was accelerating while turning left from a stop sign. Halfway through the turn my rpm's shot up to about 5000 and it was acting as if I were in neutral again. Just as before, when the rpms dropped to just above idle, the transmission reengaged and everything was normal.
I decided to take my wife's van to Walmart and grabbed a bottle of lucas oil "transmission fix". I figured it might buy me a little time before I am able to get it to a shop for diagnosis. I used a suction pump to remove approx. 24 oz. of tranny fluid through the dipstick tube. I then added the lucas oil "tranny fix" (24 oz. bottle). I inspected the fluid that I removed. It looks pretty dirty. I would say that it was a nontransparent brown color with a slight red tint. when poured onto a paper towel it still looked brown. It didn't smell burnt at all. I checked the fluid level twice before I added the lucas oil, and twice after. Both times the fluid level was at the full mark (fluid at normal operating temp, with vehicle in park after shifting through all gears).
Fast forward to today and I was able to drive from my current house to my new house(being built) which was about 10 minutes away. I had no issues at all with the transmission. after being at the new house for about an hour and a half I came back home with no issues. about 30 minutes after returning home I headed back out again to run some errands. About 15 minutes into the drive my transmission slipped again as I was making a right turn into the barber's shop parking lot. after about an hour at the barber shop I headed for home again. As before everything was fine for about the first 15 minutes until I tried to make a right turn after sitting at a red light. the transmission slipped as described before, but it did it twice this time in the same turn. Nothing happened after that within the last 5 minutes of driving home.
The slipping only seems to happen when accelerating from a dead stop or from an extremely slow speed(under 5 mph). At highway speeds the transmission down shifts and upshifts just like it always has. My truck has 78,800 miles on it and has never shown any previous signs of transmission issues other than a leaky dipstick tube that I replaced about 3 years ago.
My father had a 94 Taurus that had similar symptoms in the past and it ended up needing new clutch disks and was rebuilt. I'm hoping for that rather than a new or reman'd tranny!
My Ecoboost emblems on the sides are starting to discolor for some strange reason. I keep my truck clean and waxed so I don't feel it's due to neglect. I would like to ask the dealer to replace them with new ones but am concerned about how they would remove them...don't want any damage to the paint etc. Can this would be "easy" for the dealer to do without causing issues?
View 14 RepliesYesterday the truck run Perfect. Got home and shut it off. This morning I get I. Turn key and the truck will crank but not start. After it tries to start the oil light comes on. I Che ked the oil and it was 2.5 its low. Added oil and it still isn't starting! 2010 f150 5.4l ....
View 3 RepliesIssues:
1. Backup camera sporadically does not come on in rear view mirror. Has already been replaced by Ford dealership.
2. Backup camera settings Visual Park Aid and Guidelines sporadically are set to 'off'
3. While truck is running, start seeing warnings/hearing chimes. Emergency Brake (which isn't set), Engine Overheating, Check 4X4, etc.
4. Truck will NOT start. Won't even attempt to turn over. When this happens, I have a radio but the LED screen is usually blank.
These sporadic issues are starting to seem to be related to the use of the emergency brake. Use of the emergency brake does not always immediately cause issues. Now that I feel like there is some kind of connection, I have been setting the e-brake when I park it (even if not needed) trying to force things to happen because Ford says if they can't make it happen they don't know where to look/what to fix. I can't always make things happen by using the e brake...but am noticing things happen more often when I DO use it and when things happen (like backup camera won't work) setting the brake will make it come on and then I can release it and back up. If it won't crank while the brake is set, releasing it will cause it to crank. The other morning when I had all the warnings/chimes going off setting the e-brake made everything go back to 'normal'.
Yesterday when I came back from lunch I parked and set the e brake (on level ground). Got in it to leave work, left e-brake set, stepped on regular brake and tried to crank....nothing but radio. Called dealership. They had me try putting the key in, pressing the regular brake, and try to move the shifter from Park to N. Shifter wouldn't move. Then asked to turn key to just get it 'active' and try again. Shifter wouldn't move. Asked me to turn the key to crank and try again. Same thing - shifter wouldn't move. Truck finally cranked after I released e brake. Came home, parked and set e brake and turned it off. It re-started right up with e brake still set.
The last few days I've started getting the Wrench Light on my dash panel upon starting the truck and trying to put it into gear. I first noticed this on a cold morning and got the wrench but the truck went into Reverse and once I got going I was only in 3rd gear. I started and stopped the engine a few times and finally got it going. Since then it seems to do it all the time whether hot or cold. Tonight I noticed that if i start the engine and just go directly into Drive. I don't have the issue but if I ever go into Reverse it goes into limp mode and i get the big yellow wrench again. I only have engine Code P0720 which seems to refer to a speed sensor. I can't seem to find the sensor listed on the typical auto part websites.
View 4 RepliesI got a 2010 F-150 and just installed RECON headlights and taillights on my truck yesterday. Today, I went to go and use my remote start and the lights come on like it should and then it beeps 3 times and doesn't start. All my doors are closed. I thought maybe it was something with my hood sensor but I couldn't really find it.
View 4 RepliesWhy doesn't my 98 Ford Crown Vic Police package turn over when it is hot outside and the car is hot? Winter time, I never have the issue. When the outside temp hits the upper 70s or more, and I drive for a little bit, turn the car off it will not start or even turn over. The lights come on like normal. I wait 15-30 minutes, it fires right up. I have replaced the starter/solenoid, battery, battery terminals, ignition relay.
98 crown vic police-4.6 liter Coil-on-plug,electronic timing,182,000 miles
I have an 04 ford 6.0. It is an 03 model. It has 165xxx miles. It fires right up cold but, once warmed up it will crank but not even try to start. A little starting fluid and it will fire right up. I sent the FICM in and had it tested and it is good. I put in new 850CCA batteries and a 185 amp alternator so my voltage is good. I changed the fuel filter and the oil/oil filter, synthetic 5w-30. It isn't throwing any codes. I am really hoping it's not the HPOP but, think it's probably that or related to it.
View 14 RepliesThe explorer has been having an issue starting after its warmed up. Starts perfectly fine when its cold. but sometimes when I drive, stop for 1-10 minutes, it takes a long time to get her to start up. Typically 30sec to 1 min of cranking. Doesn't seem to have any idle issues or issues running.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1992 Celica 2.2. I've been having trouble with it starting after it has warmed up. I will go to start it and it will only crank but I can let it cool down normally like an hour and it will start up fine. I have replaced the ignition coil, fuel filter, spark plugs. And have checked the fuses and the distributor and they are fine. I wonder if its the actual fuel pump but I am no sure.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Malibu which started playing up a year ago just after I bought it. The starting became harder and harder the warmer she got, this became worse over time to the point the battery drained completely and the thing wouldn't start. A jump got it going but the battery wasn't charging from the alternator. Replacement battery and alternator solved this first problem, I thought.
Five months later she starts getting harder and harder to start again. This time I got to the mall 2 miles from home, stopped to shop, got back in and she was dead. Ok, slap on the charger...nothing. Ok, called Son and slapped the jump leads on, nothing. Called tow truck who also tried a jump, nothing. I'm wondering starter, solenoid, fuel pressure regulator, ECM, what!?
The other problem is, when it drives, around 28000 revs it hunts and dips up and down around 28000 revs. Also revving to 4000 it dies, but picks back up again and revs, hits 4000 dies and so on. Lastly, often when sitting at lights she fluctuates around 7000 revs and occasionally dies.